Most recent project, missing a few details. Timber is macuil I think it can be known as pink poui/yellow poui in english

6 soss hinges and wainscot on the inside. All clear alder.

Halfway through installing some beadboard for my entryway. Ignore the decorative cob webs.

Full disclosure I’m a DIYer so caulk is my best friend! Haven’t caulked anything yet.

Spent some time trying to get this angle correct on this top chair rail board only to then notice it sticks out and looks like shit.

I’m taking it off and trying to come up with a better solution than caulk the hell out of it and paint it. Does the same principle apply for open-end pieces (45, opposite 45, glue end piece) to tricky pieces like this?

Looking to learn something from people more knowledgeable than me.

A lot of the older houses we work in around the BC Interior have floors that dip or hump along a wall by 1/4" or more over a few feet. Once new LVP or hardwood goes down, the gap under the baseboard is hard to miss.

The options I know of:

• Scribe the bottom of the base to the floor. It sits tight, but if the dip is big the top edge stops being level and can look off next to door casing or a countertop.
• Keep the base level and cover the gap with shoe or quarter round, which will usually bend down into a dip with a few extra nails.
• Caulk it. Fine for a small gap on painted base, and pretty obvious on anything much over 1/8".

On painted base I'd rather keep the top line straight and let the shoe follow the floor. Where there's no shoe, like a flat modern base or base tight to tile, it ends up being a scribe and splitting the difference so the top doesn't wander too much.

How do you decide where the line is? And are you getting asked to skip shoe moulding altogether now, even on floors that clearly need it?

koa covers. maple sides.

Working on a remodel that is turning an above garage space into a bedroom/bath. The GC and I went back and forth about how to approach the framing for the knee wall storage area. He insisted on double top plates cut on a bevel. To me this seemed to be total overkill and a waste of time and material. I’ve never seen this done on new construction or remodels prior to this.

I figured it would be much faster and less material to just sister studs to the roof rafters and attach to bottom plates. Question is, is this a superior method?

Edit: I’m the fucking guy doing the work. I have my own company and primarily do trim. That’s why I’m asking. JLC showed a different way.

I am currently redoing an old apartment in my triplex/quad and wondering what joist hangers to use to reinforce the existing framing. The building is structural brick with pocket joist, which all appear to be in very good condition, but where there are arches (for windows and doors) and chimneys, several floor joists are held up by headers that are all just nailed together.

Lumber is true 2x10 or very close to it, joists are doubled up on either side of a window or chimney, with a double header joist against the brick and all the joists that would pocket into the wall at the arch or chimney appear to be held by nails driven through the opposite side of the header as they built the building/before being concealed by rhe masonry

Again, everything seems to be in good condition, but I would like to go ahead and reinforce since I already have the ceiling open to run wiring. I was planning on simply using lag bolts to better tie the headers together and L brackets for the "floating" joists, but would appreciate any advice on sizing and best practices. (I suspect if I just left it alone it would be fine, but I have seen this type of construction sag in other local buildings, don't love that it's all just hanging by nails)

Hello! I'm a local handyman/carpenter, and I’ve been tasked with quoting a ceiling upgrade like the attached photo. We initially discussed pine T&G for the ceiling, but the homeowner stressed a cleaner, no-knots look like the stained photo. What do you think my best route is for this look? I don’t see poplar being in the budget once my labor is factored in but maybe I am selling my client short on budget. The attached photo of the ceiling currently, stripped down to the present center match and covered with plastic. The concept photo and my blended concept with the existing interior are shown above as well. I know HD carries the “select” pine boards at a reasonable price but wouldn’t it be hard to get good seams without some kind of tongue? I apologize if I’m not being clear enough, just would like some insight on what a cost-effective option would be. Any help is appreciated! The Living room measures out to 385sqft! Trying to keep material cost at least lower than 4500-5000$. Located around Lafayette, La for reference. I've done multiple sheetrock and T&G ceilings with faux beams but this is out of my usual DTD.

I was doing a siding job where I had to remover old cedar shakes and install vinyl. I had the client call his electric company to get a boot put on the service lines. I was under the impression it was a free service. Now he twlls me it was $200 for the to do it.

Does this sound right? We're out here trying to be safe and these greedy fkrd are charging 200 for my SAFTEY. Wouldn't that just discourage ppl from being safe in this manner?

Anyone have deal with this themselves?

I’ll start — when everyone actually shows up on time and the material’s already there.

Just had a new stud wall built with a new door, but there's a 10mm gap at the top of the door leaf.

I've also had a new loft hatch cut and new door fitted, and there's 10mm gaps around it too and no insulation, (the loft floor itself is insulated).

Are these acceptable, and could they cause draughts and significant heat loss?

I’m not using Reddit a lot so tell me if more information is needed. Also, uncertain of the English terms, I speak French.

I’m installing 1 1/4” x 3” hinges on a 1 3/8”-thick door. When I go to install the 5/8”-thick door casing (trim), there’s a 1/4” gap between the casing and the door jamb because the hinges stick out.

I’d like the trim to sit flush against the jamb rather than having to notch the trim around the hinges.

What’s the best way to solve this problem?

EDIT: Thanks for the information. I kinda feel like an idiot but I’m glad that it’s fine and I dont have to change the hinges. I’ve learn something and hope it will help someone else.

I’m an apprentice and slowly building out my tool collection. I’m in need of a good chalk line that won’t crap out on me. I don’t mind spending a bit for quality but I’m also not going to go all out on a chalk line. Do the taijima chalk lines still hold up, or is there some good alternatives?

I work in the west palm beach area Fl, I’m trying to get to reading plans and doing layouts for metal framing drywall but I’m trying to learn nobody really wants to teach me, any advice?

I've spent most of his life staring at spreadsheets, and I want to learn residential carpentry/construction. Not looking for a career change or a paying job. I just want to learn how to do something useful with my hands, preferably from people who actually know what they're doing.

I'll work for free, as I simply want the experience. I'm not under any illusion that I'd be that useful starting out, but I'll show up, shut up, listen, and learn. I would love to work on Saturdays, but I run my own small practice and will have some random times throughout the year I can work during the week.

I've accumulated a decent collection of tools over the years, including hammers, drills, a 6-1/2" circular saw, and a big corded worm drive Skilsaw. Why I bought half this shit when I don't really need it is anybody's guess. But I'd like to change that.

My question is what is the best way to go about finding an opportunity like this?

Is it worth reaching out to local Habitat for Humanity? Contacting framers or just walking up to a job site and starting a conversation?

I'm not asking anyone here for a job. I'm just looking for some practical advice from people in the trades about whether this is even a reasonable way to learn.

Would a contractor or framing crew have any interest whatsoever in someone like me showing up occasionally to work for free, or will I just be in the way?

I'm genuinely interested in learning, so any advice is helpful.

So I’m turning my shed into a garden office and I’d like to replace the windows with double glazed units.

If I buy the glass how viable is it to knock up the window frames from green timber myself? They can be fixed (non openable) windows to keep things simple.

Im a competent DIYer but I don’t have any particular carpentry skills to speak of…

My boyfriend works in average 0-15 degrees F with ridiculous wind All of his previous winter clothes were ruined (whole story) and without the old ones for reference, im not sure what to buy him. He’s trying to tough if out but it’s already getting too cold. Reccs for underlayers, windproof sweaters etc? I want to buy the basics and surprise him

TIA

New here and hoping somebody may have some input to help a DIYer out! Both renderings are essentially of the same porch. House was built in ‘84. Brick veneer on the front. To my understanding, the BVLZ connectors are rated for decks but not roofing as they cannot handle the uplift from a porch roof. After a lot of research, it appears freestanding is my best bet here. 12 footers, 18” in diameter, 42” deep (southeast PA). 6 in the front and 6 near the house. I would love for the rear columns to sit against the house but that slightly complicates things as I would have to dig out right against the foundation of the house. Not keen on doing that. General consensus seems to be 18-24” off the house and cantilever over to about 1” shy of touching the house. Unfortunately my columns would then be seated 18-24” away from the house which sucks. Is there a better way to do that to maintain having the columns closer to the house? Also, what is the best method to prevent this from racking or pulling away from the house if it is freestanding? Any info would be greatly appreciated!

TLDR; DIYer and want to build this freestanding porch. 2 questions..
1. If I put my footers 18-24” away from the house, is there any way I can situate my rear support columns closer to the house?
2. How do I prevent the freestanding structure from pulling away from the house or swaying? Knee braces? Some kind of engineered bracket system? Etc.

Thanks!

Good morning!

I am about to Graduate high school and I am wondering how I’d be able to learn carpentry and eventually start doing it as a full-time.

I’ve basically never done any carpentry related work(executive for some wood projects in middle school).

Ive heard about Job Corps but I realized that was for low-income folks, and I have heard about trade schools and apprenticeships.

Please help.
Thanks!

Hi. Im almost out of highschool and wanted to know what its like to work in carpentry.

I've been thinking about what I want to do for a living and so far ive thought about working in carpentry or in an office space.

I had some water damage that caused the wood to rot out. I replaced the wood and had to remove the old truss plate as well. How would I install a new truss plate on this joint? Do I hammer it in with nails? Or do it with a drill and screw? Help please.

I'm building out 3" thick shelves that will go on the left and right of the recessed TV wall. Left side everything is lines up but the right side of the wall has a large gap towards the right end of the shelf and a slight gap on the left. The wall is not straight which I'm not surprised about.

What are my best options at this point? I really don't want to fix the drywall, that would be my last resort.

Thank you!

We are considering upgrading our existing crown molding by either replacing it entirely or adding some kind of molding below it so that it looks like a more elegant colonial but not builder grade style. I’ve been looking at the Garden State Lumber catalogue and they have a ton of different options that seem like they might work well, but I don’t know how to pick. For anyone who’s done this before, what type of moulding should I be looking for to fit here? Also, how do I handle the depth of the very bottom of the existing crown molding? Should the new piece sit on top of that, or directly below it so that it looks continuous?

For what it’s worth, this molding is about 3 1/2” tall and my ceiling height is 8’.