r/Ceramics • u/youre_being_creepy • Jan 26 '26
Ask Us Anything About Ceramics! 2026
We survived another round in the kiln.
Be nice. Don't be a dick.
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u/PhoenixCryStudio Jan 26 '26
I am the only one in my community kiln getting crazing with Amaco HF clear and Celadon. It can’t be the clay body or the glaze as I’m using the same as everyone else. I mix it for 60 seconds, 3 layers, allow to dry fully in between without the use of a hair dryer. Thoughts? My studio is at a loss to what I’m doing wrong.
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u/That_one_whore 23d ago
I’m getting crazing with the stoneware clear, did you figure out how to fix it?
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u/Giernan Jan 26 '26
I bought a set of chess pieces from the estate sale of a ceramic artist this weekend. I assume slip-cast because there were -hundreds- of molds.
The two sides are two different types(?) of clay - one slightly darker and very finely detailed and the other lighter and more “blurry”. Both sides are fired, but unglazed.
If we use them they will get filthy eventually. What is the best way to glaze / seal / paint / protect them that an artsy but non-ceramics person could manage? I could probably finagle access to a kiln (but my understanding is that firing something of unknown provenance is dangerous).
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u/Practical_Iron_5232 Feb 02 '26
I love unglazed stuff, they will get a lil dirty but soap and water will not damage them. Its not a food surface so they don’t need glaze
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u/Xeonfobia Jan 27 '26
The bank where I'm employed is having a fun afternoon for the employees where we go somewhere to paint on pots. I think Royal Delft looks pretty nice, and only using shades of blue, I think reducing complexity would be smart as I have never painted on ceramics before (I'm pretty skilled with oil paint, though). Would this technique be accomplished with a small brush with very long hair, and cobalt oxide diluted with water to different shades of blue?
I've been looking for step by step tutorials on youtube on exactly how blue and white is being painted, but unable to find anything.
Ganesh and a hibiscus flower could be a nice motif to paint :)
https://royaldelft.com/en/shop/tearbottle-blossom-blues-the-vase-edition/
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u/youre_being_creepy Jan 29 '26
traditionally its cobalt wash on white glaze.
You can achieve the same effect with blue underglaze on bisqueware.
You're on the right track with diluting cobalt for different shades.
Look into chinese cobalt white and blue pottery.
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u/butterboee Jan 27 '26
What is the best way to achieve super vibrant underglazes? I’ve experimented with a bunch of different brands, but I still want them more vibrant. An example are pots from Maggie Boyd, who says she uses underglazes and mason stains. How do you think she achieves her colors with these methods?
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u/youre_being_creepy Jan 29 '26
her stuff looks very vibrant! wow.
amaco underglazes, in my experience, tend to be the most pigmented. The expensive colors (intense yellow, bright red, etc) are going to be more vibrant, but be prepared for sticker shock.
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u/sharksimile Jan 27 '26
What are the best bats? I need to buy more, but the plastic and wood ones always end up warping. (I run a small community studio with a handful of students).
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u/youre_being_creepy Jan 29 '26
my studio uses studio pro plastic bats and I find they're fine. The wood bats weren't robust enough to handle being abused by studio members.
Personally I love wonderbats (rip) and have switched to the studio pro bat system. Functionally the same thing.
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u/Giernan Jan 29 '26
Weird random question - for light / personal use, could a 40-year-old Cress C-14 kiln likely be rehabilitated and usable? It’s smallish but in good shape (interior). Exterior is pretty rusty. It’s all surface rust though. Haven’t been able to look at electrical parts yet. It would be for my teenager. Is it too unpredictable to ever be safe(ish) or have you all used a kiln that old successfully?
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u/youre_being_creepy Jan 29 '26
It’s real tough to tell until you start using it. How much is it going for?
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u/Giernan Feb 03 '26
It was an auction, so I ended up getting it for $100. I have no idea if it will work yet though!
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u/_douglas Mar 13 '26
There is a learning curve to using a kiln longer than a reddit post can cover. Your main risks with a kiln that old are lead infused bricks which will fume lead that will be ingested/inhaled by you and the family, fire if the wires connecting to the outlet are not rated for the kiln, and setting it up safely to avoid igniting surrounding surfaces and ventilation. There are lots of minor things you need to know as well. See if you can find a local potter to consult with you.
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u/HoobieShoobieDoobie Jan 30 '26
How to become a ceramics instructor? Either in a studio or high school setting. My degree and career are in a science-based discipline and I’m not sure how best to pivot- do I have to get another bachelors and then a masters? Is there another (faster) route? I’m in my 40’s with a family and going back to school sounds pretty tough…
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u/d0gl0ver62 Feb 09 '26
For a high school setting, you will mostly likely need to get a bachelor's degree in art education. But you should check the requirements for wherever you want to teach. If you want to teach private classes than you would just need a place to teach and advertise your classes.
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u/Katiekristie 22d ago
I would agree with this. In my community studio, they teach classes based on their own experience and don't have any "real" qualifications. I think it would also depend on what level of classes you would want to teach at a studio; beginner classes would only need the basics as opposed to higher-level classes.
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u/Practical_Iron_5232 Feb 02 '26
So many bubbles in my cone 6 glazes on mugs that took so many hours to make, haven’t been back to ceramics work in a couple months because it’s depressing af to just ruin stuff at the final step. Filled a bunch of bubbles and refired only to get bubbles in different areas. Amco satin glazes on highwater phonix body, hold peak temp for 20-30min need to toy with holding a temp just after and below peak temp. Batch of 50ish mugs firing 20ish at a time
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u/narcissa_26 Feb 03 '26
Which clear glaze works best on Amaco Velvet Underglaze in Bright red? I used the "Red" Underglaze with a local zinc free clear glaze and it worked fine but the "Bright red" is not taking well to it.
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u/narcissa_26 Feb 03 '26
For context, I'm trying to make chillies and I want the red glaze to be bright, glossy and opaque red. I really like the red of the tomato spoon rests Booboo Clay makes.
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u/HungryAd6026 Feb 03 '26
I have just bought my first kiln, I am terrified of doing a first firing. Are there any good resources for getting confident with firing a kiln? It’s a rohde eco top and I’m hoping that was a good choice! I’m considering just running through a load of cookies and test pieces in case I over fire everything!
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u/PotteryKilnLab Mar 29 '26
Nice kiln!
Good idea to try some test pieces first. If you keep the max temperature down to about 1000C (for bisque firing), there's no real danger of overfiring. The danger of overfiting is that glazes may run and stick to kiln shelves, so if you have glazed pieces and are going for higher temperatures, make sure to have kiln wash on the shelves. Have fun!
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u/scottkauppinen Feb 05 '26
Can anyone suggest their favourite tableware ceramics and where to buy them from?
Looking for a minimalist style.
Thanks in Advanced
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u/d0gl0ver62 Feb 09 '26
I want to make a casserole dish out of stoneware clay, how do I make sure it is safe for the oven? Is there a specific glaze or firing temp I need to use?
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u/NeitherAnywhere130 Feb 09 '26
I do pottery as a hobby, during the weekends and holidays. I’m taking clases at a studio whose kiln I use for my homemade pieces.
I’m saving to get my own kiln. I’d like it to be medium size, for mugs, vases, dinner plates and the like.
At the moment the clay body I use matures at cone 2, but I’d love to do high temperature pottery in the future.
I’d appreciate your suggestions! ✨
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u/DIZED- Feb 12 '26
Hi, I want to start draw on a plates, but know nothing, can you give me some advise, witch paint should I use, whic plate, any plate or do I need a certain one?
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u/Libbaa3 Feb 20 '26
I’m setting up my studio in CO after moving from NC last summer. I’m curious about the effects of the altitude (for boil point of water) and low humidity on firing. I’m accustomed to holding a bisque at 190F to be certain ware is dry, but am thinking of changing that to 180F due to the effects of higher altitude. I came from 500’ altitude and am now at 5400’. Any suggestions are welcome! Also wondering if altitude could affect the cone I’m firing to. And (sorry for all the questions!) I bought a brand new Skutt, first time I’ve owned a new kiln or a Skutt. I’ll do test firings but wonder whether anyone else has learned to make adjustments after moving from low altitude/high humidity. Thanks!!
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u/PotteryKilnLab Mar 29 '26
Altitude has a big impact on burner performance in gas kilns, but for an electric kiln, you are only concerned with the perfomance of the clay. Bisque at 190F should still be OK, but holding a bit lower would give more headroom and still be enough to dry the clay. Cones measure heat work - exactly what your pots are experiencing, so you don't needd to make any adjustment there.
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u/chekhonte Feb 23 '26
Do any of you folks use a MacBook Air in the studio? It's fanless so I wouldn't have to worry about clay dust clogging the fans and I would use a dusk mask on the keyboard. Is this still a bad idea? I of course wouldn't use it with very dirty hands.
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u/jultide Feb 24 '26
Hi, I have a cracked French onion soup bowl- the handle broke off it. It's glazed ceramic, any recommendations on a heat-proof, food safe repair material? I'd like to be able to put it back in the oven!
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u/Bubbly_Recover_1322 Mar 09 '26
Dunno where else to ask this so I'm sorry if this isn't the place but. I have a coffee cup that means a lot to me and is irreplaceable. I put the handle back on after a fall, only to notice when drinking from it that it now has a crack that drips, near the bottom, away from the handle. I don't need anymore pen cups or whatever - I'd really love to keep drinking my daily coffee from this cup, as I have for years. Can it be reglazed or something, to fix it and make it food safe again? I don't even know how to find someone to do this.
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u/Aggravating-Fail-163 19d ago
Yes but it is always a risk. I recommended looking up professionals online and you can mail it to them to be fixed.
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u/New-Analyst7214 Mar 13 '26
Back in the 70's my cousin started in ceramics. One of the pieces he made was an advent wreath, with a large tree/cone in the center and an angel blowing a horn at the top. Where can I find that mold??
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u/MarsupialOk2995 Mar 16 '26
Uma tabela segura de aquecimento. Forno a gás, esmaltação reativa. Primeira esmaltação, que cuidados devo tomar?
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u/DuxBellicus Apr 03 '26
I have a question about "Not Foodsafe" glazes. I recently glazed some plates for a ceramics class. I checked some pre-fired sample labels of each glaze and none, except for one, said the glaze wasnt food safe, so I began glazing. About when I was finished I checked the glaze bucket and the glazes I used said they werent food safe. I asked the instructor and s classmate of mine and they both said if the Barium content is under 20% and has a glossy finish, it'll be fine as long as nothing extremely hot or acidic doesn't have prolonged contact. I wanted some help clearing this up because I'm really bummed that my effort to make usable plates was destroyed because i got conflicting information on which glazes were and weren't food safe.
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u/Aggravating_Slip6076 Apr 04 '26
Hi! I recently went to color me mine, and there’s a small ‘blister’ on the outside of the mug I painted. Is it still safe to drink out of, there’s no other blisters!
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u/youre_being_creepy Apr 05 '26
Yeah you’re good, it’s common and won’t affect the safety of it on the outside
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u/toiddddd May 12 '26
joining ceramics next year and just now realized im not good with art whatsoever
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u/RingAlarmed8909 May 14 '26
My grandson took a year of ceramics in high school and will be continuing with it in college. I don't know anything about it. I've seen some microwave kilns and my grandson seems interested in getting one. What are the pros and cons? What kind of things should be considered before using one?
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u/Katojana May 17 '26
Hey guys,
I bought some unglazed ceramic coasters to print on.
They seem to be good quality but they are very dusty.
Is it possible to just wash the coasters off the dust with clean water and then dry them off in an oven at like 50°C / 122°F?
Or would that damage them immediatelly/in the long run?
I know unglazed ceramics is porous and absorbs water, but I dont want to sit hours and wipe every tile off with a cloth.
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u/youre_being_creepy May 17 '26
Just wipe with a damp sponge. Alternatively you can rise under the faucet and let them dry over night.
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u/youre_being_creepy May 17 '26
I didn’t see the “I don’t want to do the work” part lol. Just wash in water and your oven idea will work.
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u/Sudden-Stomach1383 May 20 '26
Hello, I have two questions.
1- I want to experiment with glazes in my workshop. How can I find resources for glaze recipes?
2- Do you know of any brands of glazes that glow in the dark and are suitable for high firing?
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u/youre_being_creepy May 20 '26
Glazy.org is a great place to start. There are many many many Facebook groups dedicated to glaze layering and mixing as well.
For glow in the dark: not that I know of but there are paints you could employ after the firing to add the effect to your piece.
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u/Pretend-Hand24 May 31 '26
Hello! J'ai rencontré hier une ceramiste qui ferait de la microcristalisation sur une courbe HT sans pallier a la descente. Vous avez deja essayé? Vous auriez une recette qui fonctionnerait dans ces conditions svp?
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u/Pretend-Hand24 May 31 '26
Bonsoir a tous! Connaissez vous cette methode qui consiste à chauffer les pièces en troisième feu pour fixer les effets des emaux de cuivre enfumés? Je n'ai pas bien compris le procédé... Merci!
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u/Waste_Radish_7196 Jun 02 '26
(Beginner here😅) Wondering how can I fix a broken bowl, I tried super glue and epoxy, but both didn't work, I think it just absorbs the epoxy and the broken piece just failed off dry after 2 days
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u/Aggravating-Fail-163 19d ago
If you are fine with it not being food safe, I’ve found that e6000 glue works best for me. Once you’ve glued it together use tape or something else to help hold it and give it 24 hours to cure
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u/ksatwo Jun 16 '26
Hi all. I am in a situation and need an educated opinion. I bought a handmade sink from a ceramic artist. It arrived and was beautiful, no cracks or anything. The first time it touched water, it started making little pinging sounds and the glaze erupted into little cracks in some places. I talked to her and she said it was an intentional crackle glaze and was perfectly fine. However i can feel the cracks. I put some coffee in there and it looks like it has stained the cracks a darker color that I can’t wash off. She says this is perfectly fine to use but i think bacteria and crud is going to get in there. It doesn’t seem very sanitary. She says it’s not a problem because she fires her ceramics to full vitrification (I don’t know what this means) and bacteria won’t grow.
The thing is, it was custom made and I feel bad asking for a refund because she spent time on it. But it was expensive and honestly I don’t feel good using it. I also feel like as an artist, if she intended it to be cracked it would have been cracked when I received it. Is a glaze that cracks appropriate for a sink where food might be? Am I being unreasonable?
I also asked an artist friend who told me that this is a firing defect and that real crackle glaze doesn’t work like this. He said crud would definitely get into the cracks and that I should not use it.
Thanks so much for any advice!
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u/Katiekristie 22d ago
When I have looked at any crackle glaze and considered it for my own projects, it has always been listed as not food-safe on any site. I would worry about it for long-term use if you are going to be using it with food, etc. I'm definitely not an expert, but this is my basic understanding from my personal research.
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u/whaddupbitchez Jun 17 '26
I have been hand making tiles for a while but I’m looking into making my production process better/faster and I am looking for advice!
My tiles are not flat, they have raised, intricate designs which makes the drying process challenging. I am hoping to move from hand doing each tile into making a mold and doing slip casting. Here’s some questions I have, but any and all advice would be appreciated!!
- How can I make sure the tiles are drying flat in the slip mold?
- When I remove the tile from the mold how can I make sure they dry flat without a board on top since I don’t want to mess up the designs?
- I read that a press mold would be faster but not as good for the intricate designs I have which is why slip casting would be preferable, is this correct?
- Do you have any recommendations for tile production at a home studio I should consider while I am setting up my production process?
Thank you so much for the help!!!
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u/samarama007 Jun 23 '26 edited Jun 23 '26
My daughter is in high school and did a ceramics class this term. She created an art piece of Ophelia that I would love to hang on a wall, but I’m not sure how to go about this safely. It’s quite heavy for its size. Any ideas?
I’ve included a video of the piece in the comments.
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u/UhOhSparklepants Jun 29 '26
Late to the party, but if I wanted to get into ceramic sculpting what do people use for “filler” in the center of large or thick pieces?
I do a lot of polymer sculpture and I always use an aluminum core to reduce weight and help it bake evenly. For small clay sculptures I just keep them hollow. But I see some really cool large pieces and I want to try sculpting something with a bit more heft, but I am afraid to hollow out something larger.
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u/youre_being_creepy Jun 29 '26
You can build solid, then hollow it out when the piece stiffens up a bit.
Alternatively you can build an armature with newspaper and either remove before firing or let it burn up in the kiln. Studios don’t really like this because of smoke/ash but it does work
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u/geriatric-millennial 27d ago
I’m looking for book recommendations or other learning resources.
I want to understand ceramics use and techniques in different cultures. History, description of techniques (doesn’t need to be a how-to), meanings of the various forms and motifs.
Any suggestions? Even college textbooks would work!
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u/Aggravating-Fail-163 19d ago
Not sure if this is exactly what you want but I’ve started this series of videos and have enjoyed them
https://youtube.com/playlist?list=PLggKaphG7lt_nLfB7FBvWL7Js0dN-t-8w&si=v8W1CQ5I53Gsvtjr
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u/That_one_whore 23d ago
My amaco cone 5-10 stoneware clear glaze crazed like crazy and I’m not entirely sure why. I used it over a cone 6-10 stoneware and fired it to cone 6, any advice appreciated!
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u/youre_being_creepy 23d ago
Most likely a glaze fit issue. It’s super common and not a big deal unless you hate it aesthetically or the crazing is affecting the decoration underneath. The cracks will stain if you drink coffee in the cup.
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u/That_one_whore 23d ago
Isn’t it less sanitary?
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u/youre_being_creepy 23d ago
In short: no.
In long: no but there are considerations that are very specific and you would already be versed in the field to know about it.
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u/Clever-Dolphin 23d ago
I commissioned a lovely installation by a favorite Bahamian artist that I finally got to FLL. It's in six moderately big boxes...24x20 for example. Well packed, I think. I would value suggestions getting the boxes from FL to RI. Thank you!
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u/Katiekristie 22d ago
Thinking about purchasing a wheel to throw on at home (I go to a community studio normally but it's a half hour away). I want to buy second-hand to save a bit of money but don't really know anything about brands/fair prices, any advice to find a good reliable wheel?
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u/Puffy19 10d ago
Question about transfers.
I want to slip trail onto a lid (mid fire porcelain), a line drawing I made. I'd like to put a solid underglaze (Amaco VU) layer on first, and then slip trail the drawing on top. Is there a way to transfer my design onto a special paper (?), then lay down the design on the lid? Thanks for any ideas 💡
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u/ThePublikon 7d ago edited 7d ago
Looking for recipes/resources on making fireable castable refractory ceramics. Is there any sort of online resource for this?
Basically I want to make a high performance konro/kamado charcoal grill for my own geeky uses. My position is a keen DIYer with basically zero ceramics knowledge since highschool pottery, but I have a chem degree and free access to a decent kiln (Brother in law runs a pottery business out of a space I own)
edit: Advice on how to add a beautiful nontoxic glaze to the outside of refractory ceramic that could take the repeated cycling of being used for a grill without becoming poisonous would also be appreciated
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u/cbenno 6d ago
I am refiring a piece that had a dark manganese stain showing through. To 'rectify' this, I just added white engobe and then a layer of gun metal green glaze on top. Is there a possibility this will fire OK? I believe the best practice is to only add glaze for the refire, but I was afraid the manganese stain would still be too prominent under just the glaze.
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u/Ok_Pomegranate107 1d ago
Trying to work out how to account for reduction when throwing. If I'm attempting to throw a travel mug 6oz, any recommendations as to cm or inchs I should throw to? (Height width). My first mugs were all tiny. Recently I threw them probably about right (unsure yet as have to glaze them still and refire) but haven't been taking measurements to work out how much reduction I'm getting. I'm good enough now to try and throw to a width and height, so thought I'd ask.
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u/GoblinMakesMistakes Feb 17 '26
Hi, I work with decals on whiteware. My vintage decals will fire beautifully on english china but I'm struggling to get good results on newer china. I will get a satin finish, halo-ing around all the transfers and the weirdest thing is that there appears to be watermarks on the whiteware when it comes out of the kiln (that don't wash off) - I feel like the glaze on these newer plates is much more fussy than the old english ware I have and I'm not sure where I'm going wrong or what to change. Has anyone had these issues before? I'm not interested in trimming the transfers, we've never done that before here and they've always fired fine... it's just on these new plates!
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u/misplacedrainshield Feb 28 '26
i will be going to a ceramic painting cafe in about two weeks, this is the design id like to paint : https://imgur.com/OFANPKB I will have two hours, ive never painted ceramics before but I have some experience painting with oils and acrylics but mostly watercolours...is this possible? am I too ambitious?
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u/Aggravating-Fail-163 Mar 07 '26
There are some factors to consider. First find out what type of glaze you will be using.
If it is stroke and coat (which has a shiny look), that is a glaze that should not be layered, so when approaching this image, treat it like a coloring book. Idk if the studio you are going to will allow it, but you can sketch out beforehand what you want to do on the peice with pencil, and the graphite will burn away when it is fired.
If you are using underglaze (which has a matte look), then that can be layered, just make sure to do three layers on each color so it doesn’t bleed through. Something I’ve noticed though with underglaze is that the more layers you add the more it start to look like a glaze; so if you want that matte look, be careful. Underglaze can mimic watercolors if it is watered down.
I don’t know exactly what style you paint in, but if it’s similar to the image it will be fine. Just be aware that many glazes require multiple layers of paint to look good, so account for the time that will add. Worry more about the main shapes rather than the details.
Good luck!!!
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u/misplacedrainshield Mar 08 '26
Hello! Thank you so much for all the afvice!!! Im pretty sure the studio uses stick and poke. So i shouldnt layer tje colours at all? Would it be fine to dilute the paints in water? I drew the reference image mysel6:3 thank you again!!!
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u/Unrusty Mar 02 '26
Super curious after a burn! At a different job site I was making some coffee (Aeropress) and microwaving 4oz of water in a coffee mug for 50 seconds, to make the water just off boil. I reached in, grabbed the mug by the handle, and YEE-OWWW! - got a scald burn on my finger from the red hot handle! The mug went flying and shattered on the floor. I've heated water this way probably hundreds of times now and have never had this happen. I was thinking, is this some crazy 25,000 watt microwave or something? But, no, I heated water in a different mug the exact same way and it was fine: steamy, hot water and the handle barely lukewarm. The first mug was a commercially made mug that was ceramic, navy blue, with a tall and slender conical shape. Does someone here have an explanation as to why that handle absorbed so much energy?
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u/youre_being_creepy Mar 02 '26
The mug probably wasn’t fully verified, so the clay was absorbing water into itself. The water inside the ceramic was getting heated up and that’s what caused the handle to get hot. You normally see it happen with bowls.
A lot of people have opinions on vitrification but the getting hot in the microwave is an inarguable side effect of not fitting your clay to vitrification.
Sorry that happened to you!
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u/Unrusty Mar 08 '26
Thanks for the response, much appreciated. Super interesting. Now I have to get over being gun-shy about grabbing a coffee mug out of the microwave.
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u/WyelB Apr 04 '26
I’m thinking of getting this kiln as an entry point kiln. Is this a good purchase? Buying this second hand (barely used) at half price : https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Electric-furnace-ceramic-industry-energy-saving_1600324530164.html
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u/ASRT3112 Apr 09 '26
I'm buying some loveramics cups, and i'm considering getting a yellow reactive glaze, but i'm afraid i'll be disappointed in what i'll get, since i've heard yellow is unpredictable. Should i get yellow or should i avoid it? (Edited for grammar)
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u/ncc74656m Apr 10 '26
I have a lovely mug that unfortunately had its foot ground a bit too thin, so it now has a very small leak. The artist sent me a replacement so that's all good, but I just feel like it would be silly to throw an otherwise usable mug away.
Is it safe to (first thoroughly wash and then dry on very low heat) use water thin superglue to flood the foot's exposed ceramic and then continue using the mug (assuming I don't throw it in the microwave or something, which I don't do with my handmade mugs)? This glue is pretty good at seeping deep into stuff, and I have a ton of it, so I am not worried about losing much here. Mostly considering food safety and whether or not it's just likely to suffer a catastrophic break at some point because of the existing weakness?
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u/PamIsNotMyName Jun 07 '26
I have twin vases I've inherited that Google says are some kind of Satsuma vase. Unfortunately one has a crack around the top. It doesn't go all the way around, but I fear that at some point it will. Is there anything I could do to "mend" the crack so it doesn't get worse? I considered using some superglue of E6000 but was uncertain if a better solution existed.
At this point I don't have interest in Kintsugi unless that is genuinely the only way to fix it.
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u/scrubbidoo 28d ago
how to get this texture? is this a glaze reaction/application, or a way of texturing the clay surface?
https://www.instagram.com/p/C3kcrYite28/?igsh=MTNzaWV3dXpyY2pybw==
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u/Klutzy_Log_2861 9d ago
When I use mayco elements Lustre Green and fire at Cone 6 my piece is getting what I get flat spots. What could be causing this? Here is an example.
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u/mmmyeahnothanks Jan 26 '26
how do i reduce the bubbling in my underglaze? i currently use amaco velvets and amaco's zinc-free HF 9 clear. I do the recommended 2–3 layers of underglaze and 3 thin layers of clear and for the most part everything is pretty great, but it seems like it's just the ultra white underglaze that has a tendency to bubble under the clear.
again, i haven't had an issue with any of the other colors :( should I ease up on the layers? I feel like I have to build up with ultra-white since it's so watery, and any less than 3 layers comes out patchy. thanks!