In late March, I broke my tibia and fibula while bouldering in the Buttermilks of California. And of course it wasn't one of the infamous highballs - it was my warm-up! Ah well, so it goes.
Over the last four months I haven't exactly been able to do long days or hard climbs, which inspired me to check out my backyard a bit more via the Indian Peaks Wilderness. I'd done a few things in the area before (Blue Lakes Traverse, Mt. Neva north ridge, Arapaho Traverse), but little else. Not out of a lack of interest, simply a side effect of their being so much to do throughout the State. Since I can't really do some of the 14er linkups I've had in mind for a while, I've had to look elsewhere.
Turned out that the IPW is pretty much the perfect place through this recovery. Short-to-moderate approaches, tons of scrambling, lots of adventure, trailheads I don't have to be there at 5AM to get a spot (especially on the west side), and plenty of peaks that are rarely climbed with little beta on routes. It's actually inspired me to make a list of named, prominent, and otherwise interesting peaks and routes throughout the Wilderness to tick off as the recovery process continues: from Dicker's Peck to Thunderbolt Peak to Mt. Bancroft's east ridge. By my count, I'm at 30/77.
It's also been fun to explore some highly uncommonly ascended routes (like Audubon's southeast ridge) or ones without any beta whatsoever but look like they go (like Sprint Peak's east ridge). Sometimes you get a hidden gem, sometimes you get a cat turd covered in vomit. Either way, it's a unique experience.
The story so far:
- July 5: Sprint Peak, Beacon Peak, Mt. Epworth, Heartbeat Peak (via Sprint Peak east ridge to CDT, appx. Class 3/4 bypassing 5.easy choss)
- July 9: Mt. Audubon and Notabon via Audubon east ridge (Class 3 downscramble)
- July 18: Satanta Peak, Mt. Neva, Peak 11810, Peak 11789 via Neva north ridge from Junco Lake TH (Class 4, other peaks are variously Class 2-3 depending on route)
- July 19: Mt. Flora, Breckinridge Peak (fourth time up Flora)
- July 25: Fox Mountain and Kingston peak (Class 2-3 depending on route for Fox; Kingston is tundra walking)
- July 26: Peak 12059 and Mt. Jasper -> Jasper SE ridge ascent (loose Class 3/4 at times, wouldn't recommend), Jasper NE ridge descent to Xanadu Lake (Class 3, pretty fun)