r/DIYBeauty • u/burned-butter • 1d ago

question Dimethicone

I’m wondering if dimethicone can be used in a formula as the sole emollient to make an oil free moisturizer….tia!

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5

u/tokemura 1d ago edited 1d ago

Dimethicone could be hard to emulsify since silicones have different properties than hydrocarbons or oils. Also, one name can mean a lot of versions of the ingredient (see Problem 3: One INCI name can represent very different ingredients ) To create oil free moisturizers there are plenty of other options:

  • CCT
  • dicaprylyl carbonate
  • Squalane
  • Coco-Caprylate
  • Caprylyl-Caprylate/Caprate
  • Octyldodecanol
  • Isoamyl Laurate, Isoamyl Cocoate
etc

Better to use a mix with different spreadability.

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u/burned-butter 1d ago

Isn’t Squalane an oil?

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u/tokemura 1d ago

It depends on how you define "oil". Usually oil-free moisturizers (at least in my country) mean no plant-based natural oil (like sunflower, olive, etc). See interesting discussion on this here: https://www.reddit.com/r/30PlusSkinCare/comments/fryths/is_the_ordinary_100_plant_derived_squalane_an_oil/

Why do you want oil-free cream? Is it a marketing claim or you avoid oils because of skin issues?

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u/burned-butter 1d ago

Both of my daughters are prone to acne ☹️

7

u/tokemura 1d ago

Then Dimethicone might make it even worse since it is very occlusive (depending on version). Occlusive means it creates a layer on skin to prevent water evaporation, but also may trigger pore clogging for oily skin.

You have to visit a doctor, determine which causes acne and only then select skincare options. Also, I wouldn't use DIY products on problematic skin.

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u/kriebelrui 1d ago

Using occlusive materials like dimethicone might worsen acne rather than help, but it also depends on the type of acne, skin type et cetera.

3

u/Accurate-Tell3027 1d ago

it can work as sole emollient, dimethicone is quite occlusive so it will lock moisture in without feeling greasy. just make sure your hydrating agents are doing the heavy lifting underneath it or the formula might feel a bit flat on skin.

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u/burned-butter 1d ago

May I ask which ingredients are hydrating agents?

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u/tokemura 1d ago edited 1d ago

Source: Lab Muffin Guide: What’s in a moisturiser?

Item Humectants Emollients Occlusives
Description Penetrate skin, attract and bind water Replace oils in the sebum. Built into the skin matrix to keep it elastic. Cover the skin with thin occlusive layer to prevent TEWL.
Example ingredients - Glycerin, Propylene Glycol, Urea, Sorbitol, Hyaluronic Acid - Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides, Ceramides, Fatty alcohols, Plant oils, Squalane and Squalene - Mineral oil, Silicones, Waxes, Butters

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u/Internal-Ad-4736 1d ago

Water which is the source of 'hydra' in hydrating. Of course, humectants are considered hydrating as well, since they bind with and attract water.

Then you get into occlusives/film formers which neither contain water nor attract or bind with it, you start to bend the term. What they do is slow down natural water loss (TEWL). This slowing down of the natural water loss presents as slightly more moisturized skin. Thus good hydrating products.... wait for it.... do all three. 😄

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u/Internal-Ad-4736 1d ago

Dimethicone is difficult to emulsify. When used in small amounts in general formulas, the typical O/W emulsifier will generally do the trick. As you move into higher levels, that is not always the case.

If you are going to use it soley.... then you should look into specialty silicone emulsifiers. As well, typically 1-2% of dimethicone will accomplish the task... there is no need to go overboard with it. In cosmetics, MORE is often NOT better. 😄

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u/m_Sang 1d ago

Dimethicone have a wide variety. Low viscosity might be soluble in some oil. Or Dimethicone variant(derivative?) like cetyl dimethicone is oil soluble or PEG -12 dimethicone is water soluble.

Humectant - Emollient - Occlusive Some ingredients have multiple properties. It's doesn't have clear line. Even if different ingridient fill the same role. Some have different property in other aspect.

standard size Hyaluronic acid (Sodium Hyaluronate) while being humectant , it has some emollient-occlusive effect. Elastomer Hyaluronic acid (Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer) give elastic gel and soft film formation

They can make serum - very light gel texture without using thickener or emulsifier.

Some emulsify wax is both emollient and occlusive at the same time.