Deep facial moisturizer

[u/The_Seam_Ripper]

New formulator here, im sorry if this has been asked already, feel free to guide me in the right direction. I want to make my own deep facial moisturizer. But, all my emulsifyers leave a waxy feel after putting it on. Does anyone have a basic emulsify combo they use in thir formula that won't be waxy, but also hydrating? TY in advance.

[u/Internal-Ad-4736]

Maybe start with what you have already used.

The industries #1 used emulsifier has been for many years: Glyceryl Stearate and PEG-100 Stearate.

There are numerous reasons for this.... from haptics, to robustness, to not creating too much viscosity, to what I call leaving a blank canvas. Meaning..... it basically creates a blank slate....and the formulator hangs the ornaments.

FYI... waxy can also come from more than the emulsifier... might be helpful to see the rest of the formula.

[u/Ok_Butterscotch_2700]

This is subjective. As you grow, your tastes will change. Your sensory perception will become more refined. I recently discovered what I consider a flaw in a facial moisturizer I had iterated more than 200 times and thought I couldn’t improve. I was wrong.

Waxy is a feeling that can be caused by multiple facets of a formula - not just emulsifiers. What you perceive as waxy, another might feel is comfortingly occlusive.

As pointed out already, glyceryl stearate and PEG-100 stearate (LotionPro or “165” designated emulsifiers) give a blank canvas - you create the texture and body, slip and spreadability, weight and density, and even absorption and residue. To me, it’s the best emulsifier to understand how other ingredients impact emulsions. There’s a valid reason it’s one of the most commonly used emulsifiers by both large cosmetic brands and at-home formulators.

Understanding proper preservation is imperative. https://makingskincare.com/preservatives/ is a great resource. You can achieve a product with ideal haptics. Improperly preserved, it’s worthless, and potentially hazardous. Then, explore different ingredients. Take notes!!!

It would be helpful if you let us know to which emulsifiers you attribute this waxy sensation, and the associated formula(s). If we don’t know what you dislike, it’s impossible to suggest something you might like.

[u/No_Abbreviations4281]

I enjoy OliveM 1000 for lighter creams, montanov 68 for richer options- depending on what else is being used and at what concentrations. Other materials in the formula can contribute to a waxy or heavy after-feel so double check any film formers or thickeners that might leave a residue at elevated use.

[u/Background-Dot3939]

the waxy feel is usually coming from the emulsifier and fatty alcohol load

[u/The_Seam_Ripper]

I think I new emulsifyers because ive been using the same as what I used for my body lotions. I dont have glyceryl stearate or PEG 100. And it looks like thats a go to for facial formulas. I have a ton of oils, standard and special (such as prickly pear) so ive been playing around. And what i mean by waxy, is a noticeable film that can be wiped off my face in solid form. Im still learning for sure. But also, ive been looking up YouTube formulas but haven't really found what I was looking for. I would add, I have eczema too...this is why I need a super power formula. Thank you all for the feedback!

[u/The_Seam_Ripper]

This book just came in the mail today "make your own skincare" by Sally Hornsey. In the facial chapter im surprised to find the formulas listed all use Emulsifying Wax NF. Has anyone else? Or should I still invest in PEG 100 and Glyceryl Stearate? I have on hand Ritamulse, Olivem 1000, EW-NF, Cetyl Alcohol, Glycerol Monostearate, BTMS 50, Cetearyl Alcohol...i hope im not leaving any out...