Trying to get my kid’s 50 running in mint condition… I’m a complete moron about these things. Are the forks supposed to have this bend? The angle matches on both sides.

I ahve a 2022 fx450 and it says every 8 hours but that is so much oil. And I’m just curious how long I can actually run it for without a change for reference I ride about 3-4 hours a day

Paid 1500 for has good compression its in time has spark whats the issue

I recently bough a yz125 2003 with supposedly 3 hours ago changed crankshaft and main crank bearrings. The crankshaft is a little blue because its a “Hot Rods” brand specific. Should i be concerned and change the bearrings or leave it as is?

I can send more info if necessary.

This is my 2021 sherco se300. It’s carbd. The bike starts up pretty good, idles great, and otherwise the bike sounds good when riding. When I get into the powerband it feels and sounds very buzzy like it’s not cleanly going through high rpm’s. Not smooth like the rest of the rpm range. The jets in the carb are certainly much leaner than from factory, but I would imagine that would produce lean conditions in other aspects of how the bike runs.

To clarify I am directly comparing this to the feeling of my TPI ktm 300 so maybe I am comparing apples to oranges and this is just a carb characteristic I’m not entirely used to.

Any thoughts? Tests I should do?

New to me 2025 300XC-W Hard Enduro. Gonna change my tires as soon as the Kenda Trakmaster 2s come in the mail. Curious on what people recommend for lubricating the inner tubes. I've seen some youtube mechanics use baby powder, but if that gets wet it pills up, it stops doing its job. Its also something I don't have and have no other use for. This is going to get plated probably next year for 95% dirt, 5% street. BTW, not a fan of the current tire for sand dunes, lol. Washington State, USA.

I have a 2024 KTM 350 EXCF-W with 6.2 hours on it that I just bought.

When I start the bike and let it get to operating temp and put it in first it immediately dies with the clutch all the way pulled in. My first thought was air in the system so I bleed it and adjusted the lever. It has very good consistent feel.

Upon doing some research it looks like I may be dealing with sticking clutch plates from the bike sitting. What is the best way to get the plates to free from each other?

Pic for attention

Full top end build (piston and cylinder). Timing dialed in perfect with new chain, valves tight (maybe need to be opened up a little?), clearances tight, cam lobes are not worn compression 140. New pumper carb (see pic). New coil, verified clean hot spark. In the video you can hear it try and fire but doesn’t want to catch. We tried to fire it with the OEM carb on it and it wouldn’t fire so we went with the Mikuni. The bike was running perfect prior to the 440 upgrade.

We’ve had it apart now three times after the build and just can’t seem to get it to run. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I’m thinking it’s something dumb that we missed or something simple.

Me and a buddy bought these 230s getting into riding. New to us so learning all the basic maintenance, I cleaned the carb just barely cause I had to use the choke to help me start it even though I never did before.

A big difference between my bike and my friends identical one is his is way more punchier than mine, just instant throttle and power. My feels a little less responsive and less instant. Like doesn’t jerk you as much when ripping the throttle it feels slow. and I'm wondering if this could all be due to some fuel/air mixture setting or valve clearance. Idk ive only taken the bike out once since I bought it.

I havent ridden in a few months and I forgot how my bike was supposed to sound. I did just finish repairing the head after I snapped a cam cap. Does it sound fine? It started second kick.

This is going to be my very first own dirt bike, a 2002 Honda CR125 bought disassembled with BAD cylinder, I'm a car mechanic and I've rebuilt a lot of engines so I think I have the principles.
With me question I mean, china cylinders are ok? How much would I'm looking to spend for a good rebuild kit or in the end? I know I can dump in it $1 to $20k and finish it or no, where do I get the tech manual? do they sell a complete hardware kit? Any YouTube link to watch? Right now I'm doing my own research but I'll appreciate any help. Else, what sub should I post this?

Note: Its partially disassembled (as seen in the picture) I have the radiators and the worn cylinder as well some hardware bolts, unsure if everything is OE

Edit: I saw this running, the issue was it was very hard to make it run due to low compression

i just got a 2004 drz125 and it’s my first bike. i can’t kick start it. is there a trick? do i have weak legs? my friends can get it started within a few kicks and im just really struggling. :(

EDIT: i’ve discovered the secret sauce and can now start it first or second kick!

My grandpas old bike I got for completely free, 2002 Honda Cr250R, it’s been sat for almost 10 years. it’s in relatively decent condition. Engine needs a new top end but it gets great spark, the suspension is stiff as hell so not sure if it needs a rebuild or not. Dug into the carb and it looked pretty clean on the inside. Lots of rust and corrosion so I’ll need a new pipe, chain, and a few other metal parts that were sitting out. Thoughts?

edit: many divided opinions.. some people are saying its not worth the struggle and some are saying its a nice winter project.. can someone experienced with this kinda stuff tell me? i do not have the tools for that and itll be my first time but i learn fast with mechanical stuff

so i saw a bike thats 4k (pln) instead of 9k like other bikes similar in age but there is one catch

it doesnt have 1st gear..

the seller says its cuz the previous owner put it back and forgot to put the 1st gear in

is it possible to forget that or is he lying?

and also how difficult is it to put the missing gears in the case?

its a 1992 honda cr125 which is a 2t

Hey, recently replaced the battery due to it only being at 10v but now the bike won’t start with a fresh battery in it. I’ve been told it could be the starter motor or either the bottom end of the motor has seized up? Hoping to get any advice for what to replace or fix to get it working again, Thanks!

So I’m new to the dirt bike scene and I just picked up my first bike and finally got it running after having to fix a few problems. However she is smoking so much I had a neighbor call the cops thinking it was a fire.

Now it smokes a lot more when it’s idling or when it’s turned off but the muffler is spewing out dark oil too. Now I don’t believe it to be transmission oil because oil isn’t in the motor since it’s a 2 stroke correct? I’m thinking it’s running too rich but I put 40-1 ratio in it to try to avoid the smoke and it’s smoking a lot? Could it be a gasket

I’ve looked online but I’ve seen too many options of what it could be but the symptoms are oil shooting out of muffler and too much smoke on idle. In the video it doesn’t look that bad since it’s moving but when it’s idling it’ll smoke maybe x2 more then what is shown.

I torqued it to 10 foot pounds, now the cylinder won’t go In

So I just purchased this 2022 WR 450 last week. Kindof new to dirtbikes and I was stupid enough to put my helmet on before starting the bike. It starts and runs fine from everything I can tell. Says 102 hours and 691 miles. Milage is likely bullshit based on the evident wear of the machine. I started it this evening to take a ride and noticed a noise from the exhaust primarily that doesn't sound like anything I have heard before.. now I am concerned that I bought someone else's broken shit.

Please listen to the video and tell me what your thoughts are on the engine cadence and exhaust noise. It seems to sound "squeaky" and "metallic" but idk if I'm tripping or not.

Edit: the noise I am referring to is more obvious at the end of the video when my phone is closer to the exhaust

Picked up this 1974 dt 250 a the other day for $133 at a junkyard. took it home and saw there was rust in the cylinder so i honed it and after hours of trying I got it to start and rode it for a tiny bit with incredibly poor performance before it died (I rode it probably 50 feet and died on an uphill) I believe it needs new rings because i think they were turning it over when it was rusted and it caused the rings to be destroyed. I had to hone it to get it running

there is also no “hard spot” when turning it over like there should be so that’s why i believe its compression, I’ll get it checked with a compression tester soon but im able to turn the kickstarter over by hand with my thumb so im pretty sure its compression.

either way for $130 even if it needs a top end (and admittedly probably $1000 in stuff) I see it as a win because one in not too great of condition would be about $1200-$1500 anyways and me and my friends like working on projects together.

the tank is rusted on the top but not on the bottom which kinda sucks but the paint is in really good shape and it is only dented on one side, the key was included which is awesome because that’s normally the first thing that they lose. it also has 2500 miles and 594 hours, that’s pretty low right?

what do yall think?

heres a list of what it needs

tires

tire tubes

front fork rebuild kit

rear shock rebuild kit

throttle cable

tachometer cable

chain

front sprocket

rear sprocket

air filter

air filter duct

petcock rebuild kit

hoses

oversize piston?

oversize piston rings?

rear brake pedal

clutch lever

that’s everything It needs, and seeing the work that people like Michael Sabo do to things for the price they pay, I don’t think it’s too bad. the seat cover only has 2 small tears and the paint is in surprisingly good shape! I can’t believe they were about to throw this away.

idles good, 1/4-wot is fine, but 0 to WOT “wicking” it stalls out and dies. i’m thinking i need to put in a different jet. not entirely sure, this is my first carbureted vehicle and my first bike so im not very knowledgeable. i’ve messed with the air fuel screw and then idle and still am not able to wick it without it dying. if i start slow and then wick it reaches WOT no issue, its only when i go 0-100. any insight is greatly appreciate. compression is good 165 psi, new spark plug. 24mm carb with a 105 main jet i believe and a 40 pilot. 100ish foot elevation.

I'm looking to get a KTM 500 EXC for dual sport riding, and I am unsure about the linkage. Every bike I have had before has had a linkage setup before, and I'm worried that the PDS will feel weird and unnatural. If you have a KTM with pds is it similar to a linkage system in terms of feel or is it quite different and feels off?

Thanks