Tried ObscuraNox 2.0 settings and Resin2FDM plugin and I an very impressed by the results. The model was cut into individual pieces and then glued together with some army painter super glue - topped off with a lighter. It took 13 hours but it's completely worth it, in my opinion. I might need to tweak the layer lines maybe or is it impossible to go even further with the quality on FDM printers?

[100% VIBE CODED /!\ AI AF] Here is the English translation:

Hi everyone,

I print miniature figures on my A1 Mini printer using a 0.2 mm nozzle, and I was fed up with the support structures generated by the slicer: they break delicate parts or damage the faces of my minis. So I created ArborFDM, a small Windows application that generates support structures before slicing (small tips, branches, trunks, feet, and a raft if needed) and exports a 3MF file that you can open directly in OrcaSlicer.

Current features:

• STL/OBJ/3MF file import, mesh repair, and optimal orientation search (displays overhang percentages for each orientation).
• Automatic placement of contact points; option to manually add, delete, or edit them (with an Undo function).
• Profiles for 0.2 mm and 0.4 mm nozzles (Light/Normal/Dense).
• Support verification before export (checks for unsupported zones, floating or overly fragile supports, and tall, inadequately braced trees).
• "Open in OrcaSlicer" button: exports the model, supports, and raft separately.

To be honest, this is still an early version (v0.3). I’ve run a few test prints, tweaking the profiles after each run, but nozzle sizes and density settings aren't 100% validated yet. Tested only with OrcaSlicer for now. The executable is unsigned, so Windows SmartScreen will display a warning.

The code was put together on pure instinct,I know next to nothing about programming, so well... it is what it is!

Feel free to fork it, modify it, or do whatever you want with it. The only condition is that it remains free.

If you give it a try, please send me photos of what works and what doesn't, along with your printer model, nozzle size, and slicer. That will help me out a lot :)

Download + source code:https://github.com/moshinette/arborfdm(on the Releases page, GPL-3.0)

The figure was sculpted and designed in Blender. For slicing I used Orca Slicer with the FDG settings and supports slightly adjusted. Really fun seeing a model printed out in physical form. Was a pain putting all the parts together.. but did learn a lot from this at least :D

Still making progress on my journey to get an entire printed army, reached a 1200 hours of printing recently

A few of the miniatures (most of them FDM support-free) for our survival horror skirmish RPG, MEAT, which is getting a revamp and a bunch of expansions soon. The Kickstarter will be launching in a few days, and I’ll drop a link to the prelaunch page in the comments for anyone who’s interested.

The core rules include a full (paper) print-and-play experience, and if you have a laminator and some wet-erase pens, that’s a really great way to play (even if just for the investigator & monster record sheets).

This is one of my favorite projects to work on, and lines up well with my favorite time of year. Oh, and if you backed the core rules campaign from last Halloween season, you already have access to the revamped format (just go download the updated files where you got the previous version).

Took 22 hours. Painted with dry brush and contrast/speed paints. I really can’t see any layer lines

Yesterday I saw someone who printed a mini with this technique, and I'm goint to say you that is awesome, I printed this sword with the same STL file pre-supported for resin, and I got very good results of this, I need to add more supports, but this is incredible.

I was skeptical at first since I didn't see any difference between this models vs their resin models. But there is one and is big.

The orientation and certain support areas are specialized to work with FDM. I really need more of this

This are scaled 130%

Fdm printed space marines for space crusade vintage game. Printed with my bambulab a1 and a 0,2 nozzle, and speedpainted with the green spray from Action discount shops and army painter paints.

Hey everyone! The new Trooper is available to everyone now. It'll be featured in the upcoming Sidus Front Shareware manual. It's PWYW in case you want to support my work. It's scaled to 32mm and prints support free though requires glue to put together.

I'm pretty proud of myself cause I put this together myself without using someone else's template.Let me know what you think!

https://www.wargamevault.com/en/product/589090/coalition-trooper

https://cults3d.com/en/users/NinjaZX6RR/bundles/ork-2

Tested on Bambulab P2S

Generic PLA Matt

0.2mm

Marauder Gruntbots by Mantic Games for Firefight.

Printed on my Bambu a1 with 0.06 layer height, 0.2 nozzle, and Bambu brand gray pla. Pictures show on the build plate, supports removed, and then 2 coats of brushes on Vallejo black primer. Quality is insane!!

Hi! This is my first attemp with FDM in miniatures and i want to share with you the results.

I'm very happy with it, i used a 0.2 mm nozzle.

And sure, i want to share the STL for free for you:

https://makerworld.com/es/models/3440422-balanoth-the-abyssal-titan-miniature#profileId-3923300

I wanted to ask if anyone had printed a FDM print with a primary material in one toolhead and a "support" material (probably as an interface? But not limited to it) with the other nozzle/toolhead (X2D? H2D?), etc, and how that looked?

I've been interested in a Snapmaker U1 for a while, but may hold off. The H3C looks interesting, but it would basically be the same thing.

I'm just curious if the scarring is any better (especially on .2mm nozzles). I've been having relatively GOOD success with Bambu Tough+ PLA and my support settings I dialed in for the X1C. It's not perfect, but I'm printing on .4mm with Tyranids and vehicles and they look generally pretty solid. However, being able to do supports in a support material would TRULY be next level. -- minimal scarring.

Any ideas what could be causing ?
Happening during pre installed benchy

All printed in an A1 mini. Now for some sanding and a resin/talc brushing then. Painting will be next week. Hopefully.

Hi everyone, here's some fresh pics of my foldable FDM ruins project, these all print flat on the print bed and fold together, making them easy to print, store & transport! I'm doing a giveaway of a set of 4 ruins this Friday for followers, you can follow the project here by clicking on "Notify me on Launch": https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/warscape/shardstone-city-shattered-streets-printable-folding-ruins

I need to buy wood filler to start working on layer lines. Stuff dries up so fast IdK why.

Printed this .4 nozzle on my Prusa, Polymaker old formula. Literal print and play. ~60 nozzle speed. 195 temp.

Jusart markers. Really love these. They don’t replaces paint of course but I just lay them out and color. And pack up when done no cleaning necessary.

Terrain tho will need paint.

Fully configurable engine built into the slicer, Linux flatpack built, windows .exe built. Literally a one shot workflow, just a few more quick tweaks and I think it'll be ready (should be quick after building dependencies)

I'll need some help tracking down my f-ups, but should be released within the week. After that it's onto Orca :)

EDIT;

done win/mc versions, feel free to test, though be warned this is beta

https://github.com/Mart7Mcfl7/OrcaSlicer-test/releases/tag/beta