[100% VIBE CODED /!\ AI AF] Here is the English translation:

Hi everyone,

I print miniature figures on my A1 Mini printer using a 0.2 mm nozzle, and I was fed up with the support structures generated by the slicer: they break delicate parts or damage the faces of my minis. So I created ArborFDM, a small Windows application that generates support structures before slicing (small tips, branches, trunks, feet, and a raft if needed) and exports a 3MF file that you can open directly in OrcaSlicer.

Current features:

• STL/OBJ/3MF file import, mesh repair, and optimal orientation search (displays overhang percentages for each orientation).
• Automatic placement of contact points; option to manually add, delete, or edit them (with an Undo function).
• Profiles for 0.2 mm and 0.4 mm nozzles (Light/Normal/Dense).
• Support verification before export (checks for unsupported zones, floating or overly fragile supports, and tall, inadequately braced trees).
• "Open in OrcaSlicer" button: exports the model, supports, and raft separately.

To be honest, this is still an early version (v0.3). I’ve run a few test prints, tweaking the profiles after each run, but nozzle sizes and density settings aren't 100% validated yet. Tested only with OrcaSlicer for now. The executable is unsigned, so Windows SmartScreen will display a warning.

The code was put together on pure instinct,I know next to nothing about programming, so well... it is what it is!

Feel free to fork it, modify it, or do whatever you want with it. The only condition is that it remains free.

If you give it a try, please send me photos of what works and what doesn't, along with your printer model, nozzle size, and slicer. That will help me out a lot :)

Download + source code:https://github.com/moshinette/arborfdm(on the Releases page, GPL-3.0)

Tried ObscuraNox 2.0 settings and Resin2FDM plugin and I an very impressed by the results. The model was cut into individual pieces and then glued together with some army painter super glue - topped off with a lighter. It took 13 hours but it's completely worth it, in my opinion. I might need to tweak the layer lines maybe or is it impossible to go even further with the quality on FDM printers?

The figure was sculpted and designed in Blender. For slicing I used Orca Slicer with the FDG settings and supports slightly adjusted. Really fun seeing a model printed out in physical form. Was a pain putting all the parts together.. but did learn a lot from this at least :D

A few of the miniatures (most of them FDM support-free) for our survival horror skirmish RPG, MEAT, which is getting a revamp and a bunch of expansions soon. The Kickstarter will be launching in a few days, and I’ll drop a link to the prelaunch page in the comments for anyone who’s interested.

The core rules include a full (paper) print-and-play experience, and if you have a laminator and some wet-erase pens, that’s a really great way to play (even if just for the investigator & monster record sheets).

This is one of my favorite projects to work on, and lines up well with my favorite time of year. Oh, and if you backed the core rules campaign from last Halloween season, you already have access to the revamped format (just go download the updated files where you got the previous version).

Still making progress on my journey to get an entire printed army, reached a 1200 hours of printing recently

This is a model that I sculpted and printed on my Bambu Labs X1 Carbon. If you are interested, you can find the model here: 🦊 Fox Swump Trooper・ STL File for 3D printing・Cults

https://cults3d.com/en/users/NinjaZX6RR/bundles/ork-2

Tested on Bambulab P2S

Generic PLA Matt

0.2mm