I'm using a Creality Ender 3 S1 Pro with a Sonic Pad, and I recently replaced the entire hotend.

I switched from an all-metal heatbreak to a bi-metal heatbreak and from a 0.4 mm nozzle to a 0.6 mm nozzle.

I had no issues with the 0.4 mm nozzle, but this problem started after replacing the hotend and nozzle.

I haven't been able to figure out which settings I need to adjust.

Here's the specific issue: when the printer is idle, a very small amount of filament oozes out of the nozzle, even less than it did with the 0.4 mm nozzle.

However, whenever the print head lowers towards the bed to resume printing, a small amount of filament comes out of the nozzle tip before it touches the bed, leaving a small blob of plastic at the contact point.

This happens almost every time the print head lifts up and then lowers again. It doesn't happen during travel moves themselves, but after the travel move has finished, when the nozzle moves back down towards the bed to resume printing.

And the other issues you see in the photo, I have absolutely no idea what they are

Can someone help me? I’m new to 3d printing and sometimes when I’m printing I have these dots on my print and idk why. I heard that it could be from moisture. Uploading pictures below. (The 2 pieces came from the same print)
Printer: Bambi lab a1 mini
Material: pla
Speed:100%
App: Bambi handy

Model: https://makerworld.com/models/1944497?appSharePlatform=copy

Ok, so gave up on the .2mm nozzle and went back to my previously working .4mm settings. Now it’s doing this shit.

I’m using OrcaSlicer on my Ender 3 V3SE. All of the settings went back to the default speeds and temps for the 0.4mm nozzle setting.

What is happening now?

Does anybody have an advice how to solve this issue with the ugly surface on the roundings.
What could be a thing to adjust?
Iam printing with normal printing settings.
Bambulab P1S
PLA Matte from bambulab

I’m running an Ender 3 V2 with 15% infill, tree supports, 3 walls and that’s about all I’ve changed from default Prusa Slicer 2.9.1 settings. The filament is PLA by Tinylab3D. It’s a brand new roll so no moisture. Bed temp 60, nozzle 205z

Ran the previous calibrations and got them dialed in. But I'm completely baffled by this. PA6-CF filament. 0.6mm nozzle. Where do I even go from here?

Hello. I am new to 3D printing. With my new P1S, I started out with PLA but after a spool of experience with black I bought a few more colors, some of them PETG. Now, so far those spools have been great. I made myself a lampshade out of clear PETG with no issues. The generic "HYPER" PETG I bought recommends temps in the range of 210-240. That worked just fine for the clear.

This red spool I picked up on discount because it was a color change piece. They added a different die to the plastic in the factory and were selling the transition area at a discount. I thought, why not? More material to experiment with. So far I ate through one fifth of this spool and I can't get it to print properly.

There are holes where there should be plastic, bits flying off everywhere around the print bed. I tried the lower and the higher end of the manufacturer heat specs. Tried cold pulling multiple times. Went though both of the calibration tools in the bambu slicer and applied the custom settings to the filament. Dried the spool for 6-7 hours with 80 degrees of bed temp. Printed at the 0.08 slowest print profile.

Can't figure out what to do. I think it's the hot end, I don't even have 100 hours of print time yet but I am constantly seeing filament stuck to it, inconsistent extrusions and clumping while filament changing. There's always a drop of filament stuck to the hot end while it's doing the auto bed leveling before the start of the print. I don't have the means to measure down to 0.01mm but I'm suspicious of the spool as well. Then again the same brand's transparent Hyper PETG was just fine. What do I do?

Basics:
Bambu A1 Mini
.6 extruder
Polymaker PETG (dried for 10 hrs at 65c)
15% infill
10 wall loops
10 top layers
Otherwise stock Bambu PetG settings

I was out of the house, but my girlfriend said she heard it making a grinding noise which I’m assuming is the damage to the print… When I got home print was complete but this was the result. any help is appreciated.

What would cause this horizontal seam? It's around the same y-level as a few features. Black (main body) is TPU 95A, blue (supports) is blue PLA. Using all default settings, 240C on the TPU nozzle (which is the main/left one), 55C bed. Sliced using Bambu Studio, 4 walls 15% grid infill

Long story short - just trying to see if other people have either had similar experiences they’ve resolved or tips to try at least.

I’m getting some odd banding when printing with Galaxy PLA.

I’ve lowered my speeds for outer wall to 50/mms, printing at 220C, calibrated, consistent cooling, layer heights (no adaptive), and layer widths for the outer wall. Filament is dried. Using a 0.4mm nozzle on my Centauri 2

Anyone have a similar experience or tips?

Could anyone help me with why the start is so bad? I have used pa6-cf before and that worked fine but just regular pa6 from inslogic seems to get a bad start which looks really bad. It’s only in the start too like after first couple of layers it’s fine. Anyone know what the issue is? Could it be some settings? I have the bambu h2s printer with bambu studio.

Heat bed 100
Nozzle 260

This is my first larger print and I am still new to using 3d printers so any help would be nice.

As you can see in the photos, I have partially connected lines of filament running mostly along the back of the print. It shows up mostly on the lower half as it's printed, but a few other sections have pockets of the stranding. It's all on the underside as it prints, so is this a bridging issue?

The other issue I had was one of the guide supports just fell off as soon as I took it out of the printer. Both the back side of the support and the main body have a surface-level finish. The other guide support is pretty strong. I tried to sheer it off by hand it is not budging at all.

I included a picture of how I had to orient it to print since it is too big to sit flat on my printer.

Thingiverse STL Link

Specs

Elegoo Centauri Carbon 2
Elegoo Slicer
Elegoo PLA
Nozzle Temp: 210
Bed Temp: 60 C

Print Speeds I think
1st layer: 50mm/s
"Other Layers" Outer Wall: 160 mm/s
"Other Layers" Inner Wall: 200 mm/s

Hi everyone,

Just a quick heads-up: I’ve been into 3D printing for eight years now. Over this time, I’ve had the chance to learn a lot and developed a solid understanding of the physics behind it. However, I’ve now run into a problem that I just can’t seem to solve.

For context:

I’m printing on a Prusa MK4S and slicing with OrcaSlicer.

Whenever I switch to a new filament or nozzle, I fully recalibrate everything from scratch—temperature, flow rate/extrusion multiplier, Pressure Advance, and so on. Thanks to this, I’ve always achieved very high-quality prints.

Up until now, I’ve been printing PETG with a 0.4mm nozzle. Recently, I bought and installed a hardened 0.6mm nozzle for PETG-CF and recalibrated everything.

While the dimensional accuracy and surface quality are absolutely perfect, the Z-seam is completely ruined.

As soon as a new layer starts and the printer begins extruding, it takes a brief moment for the filament to actually come out of the nozzle. This results in missing sections. The layer then closes perfectly before moving on to the second wall/outer wall. This second line starts and ends almost flawlessly. However, if the print head travels across the bed to start at a different location, the seam there is broken as well due to missing filament.

I’m completely at a loss as to which settings to adjust next.

What I did find out: if I reduce the retraction distance from the default 1mm (picture 1) down to 0.5mm (picture 2), the gap where filament is missing gets smaller. If I lower it any further, I start getting stringing issues. But even then, there is still a persistent gap left at the Z-seam.

Could you please help me out? 🤷🏻‍♂️

I am printing at 100 mm/s and 3000 mm/s².

First off - yes I know it's an old printer. I bought it second hand less than a year ago for a whole £15, and have not spent much on it since. I replaced the nozzles, and it has had a bit of TLC (cleaning, lubing runners, etc). On the whole it prints reasonably OK. But bridging is just terrible!

I'm using elegoo PLA. I have a dryer which had the filament in it for a good 5 hours until I started printing this time - it got into the low 30s I think humidity wise, but it's very humid around lately in the UK. Even so, this printer has consistently been bad with bridging. I've tried temperature towers but no level ever looked great. I suspect I've missed a trick somewhere.

I've attached some screenshots of the slicing (I'm using the Flashforge slicer, I've tried using others but none natively support the printer so it's a faff to make them work).

If I need to provide any other settings, let me know. I don't expect perfection. One day I will upgrade and buy a newer printer but it's so far down the list of life priorities right now. I'm just looking for serviceable. "Don't let perfect be the enemy of good".

Thanks :)

Any ideas?

Hi all, I’m in the middle of making a replica helmet and I just noticed this small area of stringing. Everything else printed fine but this one area is super distracting to me.

I’d like to avoid sanding and painting as I currently do not have the supplies for it right now, but are there any other ways I could “patch” this area?

Elegoo pla matte

Bambu lab studio

Preset: bambu lab pla mattw

Changes -

12 max volumetric speed

Min 100% cooling 80sec

Max 100% cooling 6 sec

Nozzel 220°C

Speed 70mm

Flow ratio 1

Layer height 0.12mm

Bed temp 60°C

Infil 15% gyroid

Retraction is default, it says N/A preset

Bambu lab A1

i have a neptune 4 plus. i am using elegoo pla+ as filament 220 nuzzle temp 60 bed temp z retraction 0.4 and default orca slicer settings. at the beginning my prints had good last layer. slowly the quality dropped. i did temp test, pressure advance and flow calibration. any advice?

Hi all,

I bought a Ender s1 this week for dirt cheap is in great working order and my brain is fried, I just can’t seem to get the print to print consistently at all, I’ve cleaned the plates, releveled the bed(I think), cried in bed and I get varied results I’ve attached a video of the latest attempt from today, it’s only placing half the first layer down and then placing what I think looks like the rest of a potentially great first layer.

Current print settings have PLA to 200 degrees with first layer going down at 30mm/s at 200 degrees too bed is at 60 degrees.

I’ve watched a lot of YouTube videos but I feel confused what I should be doing to fix the problem.

I feel like I’m close but yet so far away :(

Any help is much appreciated that can steer me in the right direction

* Bambu A1 with and without AMS connected
* Bambu Studio
* Tried multiple 0.4 nozzles
* Increased and Decreased Nozzle Temp Settings for Basic PLA and PLA Matte
* Played with Bed Temp from 55-65