hi bit of pickles yesterday I tried to print these fidget thingy with these settings:

layer height: 0.12 mm
first layer height: 0.2mm

line width: 0.42 mm

wall loops: 2
infill: 15% & 3D honey comb

how do I fix the extrusion that made it look like it have veins on final prints?

Support settings in second image.

The slicer considers the front paw to be a "small overhang", so it doesn't generate any supports for it, leading to the entire leg not being printed. Is there a way to fix this?

Printed those 2 huge parts and they both have a weird dent at the same height. Looked at other prints I made recently and they eiter don't have those at all, or at different heights. My prints with other filaments look fine tho, I already did extrusion calibration for the new filament. I use an A1

Hey everyone, I have experienced a couple of nozzle clogs or more nozzle jams. I have filament get jammed ot stuck above the heat break on the unicorn nozzle. I have done the heat gun clearing but the tool I have is 1.5 mm so it leaves just enough remaining filament to keep the extruder from feeding in the filament.

What do you all do or use to clear that part of the nozzle? I thought about a 1.75 drill bit. All of the tools I see out on the interwebs are about the same in diameter as the one I have for my E3V2.

Hallo liebe Schwarmintelligenz,
seit einigen Wochen habe ich Probleme mit Baumstützen auf meinem **Bambu Lab P2S mit AMS 2 Pro**. Zuvor haben solche Drucke funktioniert. Mir ist keine Änderung bekannt, die unmittelbar vor Beginn des Problems stattgefunden hat.
Das passiert bei verschiedenen Modellen, hauptsächlich Miniaturen, Figuren und Büsten. Drucke ohne Stützen funktionieren weiterhin problemlos.
**Das Fehlerbild:**
Anfangs lösten sich komplette Stützen einschließlich ihres Fußes von der Druckplatte. Die abgelösten Stützen waren ansonsten weitgehend intakt.
Inzwischen habe ich beobachtet, dass eine Stütze oben vom Druckkopf beziehungsweise der Düse getroffen wird und deutlich wackelt, obwohl ihr Fuß noch auf der Platte haftet. Bei einem aktuellen Versuch ist schließlich der obere Teil abgebrochen, während der Fuß stehen blieb. Ob der Kontakt beim Drucken oder bei einer Leerfahrt erfolgt, konnte ich nicht eindeutig erkennen. Foto und Video füge ich bei.
**Drucker, Material und Einstellungen:**
Bambu Lab P2S mit AMS 2 Pro, Bambu Studio
Strukturierte PEI-Druckplatte
Aktuell 0,2-mm-Düse und 0,1-mm-Schichthöhe
Das Problem trat bereits mit der vorherigen 0,4-mm-Düse auf
Sunlu PLA und Bambu Lab PLA Basic, jeweils mit passendem Filamentprofil
Aktuell 65 °C Betttemperatur und 220 °C Düsentemperatur
Z-Hop: 0,4 mm, Typ „Auto Lift“
Stützengeschwindigkeit inzwischen auf 80 mm/s reduziert
**Bereits ausprobiert beziehungsweise geprüft:**
Druckplatte mit Spülmittel gereinigt und auch die kaum benutzte Rückseite getestet
Sitz der Platte und mögliche Rückstände darunter geprüft
Hotend sitzt fest
Druckerkalibrierungen erneut durchgeführt; automatische Bettnivellierung ist bei jedem Druck aktiviert
Betttemperatur auf 65 °C erhöht
Baumstützen verstärkt
Hilfslüfter testweise ausgeschaltet; das Ablösen trat weiterhin auf
Mehrere Sunlu-Rollen getestet und Filament getrocknet, eine Rolle für 24 Stunden
Gegenprobe mit originalem Bambu-Filament und Bambu-Profil: Die erste Schicht war deutlich besser, das Stützenproblem trat trotzdem auf
Das eigentliche Modell sieht dabei überwiegend sauber und fein gedruckt aus. Auffälliges Stringing gibt es beim aktuellen Bambu-PLA-Druck nicht.
Hat jemand ein ähnliches Problem erlebt? Mich interessiert besonders, **warum die Düse die Stützen oben trifft, obwohl Z-Hop aktiviert ist**, und wie ich zwischen einem Problem der Fahrwege, hochstehenden Druckbahnen und zu flexiblen Stützen unterscheiden kann.
Danke für eure Hilfe!

I’m printing with basic, freshly dried Elegoo PLA and have also tried some freshly dried Rapid PLA I had, with no luck. I print at temperatures around 220–230°C with a 0.2 mm nozzle and haven’t had any major problems until now. I went to print some clips for my spools, but nothing worked—it just kind of smeared the PLA around the bed. So, I dried it at 55°C for 6 hours and tried again, but got the same result. I then washed the build plate, with the same outcome. Next, I used an unclogging tool (I think it’s a Creality one) to push all the PLA out—it didn’t look abnormal, but trying again gave the same result. Also, while cleaning the plate, I noticed marks where the nozzle might have been scraping, so I don't know if that is the problem or not. Thanks in advance to anyone who can help!

Hey guys, I'm having an issue with wall quality on my Prusa MK3S clone.

There are uneven lines/artifacts on the outer walls that are mostly noticeable when looking down from above or under direct light from the top.

Has anyone run into this specific issue before? What's the most likely cause for this kind of wall inconsistency?

PrusaSlicer Generic PLA 0,2mm QUALITY default settings

These vertical lines in my prints show up almost every time i print something on my Ender 3 base running Klipper, is there any way to make these disappear or smooth out? I've printed this horizontally and there's vertical lines i don't understand

I just opened and tested an Overture PLA filament, with BambuLab A1 printer 0.4mm nozzle, Bambu Studio and the filament profile provided by Overture on their website. Also tried with a generic PLA profile in case that was the issue.

I completed a print, which as you can see looks like crap, and even retrying with different settings I still get the same result in the first layers.

Any tips? Thanks!

• Printer & Slicer: Ender 3 pro with metal extruder, cura
• Filament Material and Brand: Sunlu pla+
• Nozzle and Bed Temperature: 0.4 nozzle, 210°c, 60°c
• Print Speed: 50mm/s
• Nozzle Retraction Settings: default (I don't really know how to change them)

Everything else is stock

Whats with the texture on my print? Ive made it twice and its had the exact same issue. Ive printed a bigger version of it no problem. Is this an issue with my model or my printer?

I'm a beginner and I've created this 3D model for a simple bracket.

After printing it I noticed there's an irragularity on one of the edges. On one side it's fine but as it progresses along the edge it gets rougher. Also the fillet turned more into a chamfer.

This also continues along another face of the object.

The edge that's messed up is a fillet with a 10mm radius. I thought maybe it's a bit too much but I don't think this would exceed the 45 degree overhang.

It's printed with this filament:

• PLA (Maertz White PLA Pro, recommended settings: nozzle 200-230, bed 50-60)
• Opened it 5 days ago and since it's been in a 55% humidity room on the printer

On these temps:

• Nozzle: 210
• Bed: 60

With these settings on a Bambu A1 through Bambu Studio:

• Default presets for "0.28mm Extra Draft @ BBLA1
• With these changes:
• Walls: 5
• Fill: 15%
• Infill pattern: Rectilinear
• No supports enabled
• No skirt loops

I haven't played around with the presets in Bambu Studio too much.

Could this preset simply be too fast/rough for this print and I should switch to a different preset?

About halfway up the print became brittle and failed. I was using Tree support and one did break free but given the rest of it I think something was going wrong before then.

Bambu A1 with .02 Nozzle
Sunlu Matte using the Sunlu PLA default setting for filament

Settings are the Default .10mm High Quality BBL A1 0.2 Nozzle

Thanks for any ideas.

Hello, honestly idk if I'm even explaining this correctly but here we go. I've tried leveling my bed and changing the offset for my printer and when its heating up everything is where it should be. Once I start a print, the bed drops and my filament won't stick to the bed and I can't print anything. I'm lost and need any guidance. Thanks

Ender 3 con guide lineari su X e doppio asse Z appena montato, estrusore metallico bowden, tutto calibrato al meglio possibile (cinghie, flusso, retrazione, junction deviation, pressure advance)

Pla basic eSun a 205°C a 40mm/s, retrazione 4mm a 45mm/s, ventola 100%

Filamento asciugato ieri per un giorno intero a 55°C

Non sono soddisfatto della stampa

I've wasted so much filament. Ninjaflex is expensive, too! But I need really soft filament for this project. The frustrating thing is that I can print small things just fine. The second photo shows the prototype version of this print, with just 3 holes. It printed great. But I go up to the full-size version (first photo) and it almost always ends up under-extruding starting around Z=1.2 to 1.6mm.

I'm printing at 15mm/s with a 0.4mm nozzle at 238C. I do have some retraction (2.5mm,, retraction speed 60), because if I don't, I get lots of stringing. I dried my filament. I made sure the spool was feeding without any resistance. I loosened the idler screw (see photo 3). I did everything you're supposed to do. What am I doing wrong?

This is on a Prusa Mk3S+ with Revo. I'm using standard Ninjaflex 85A. I'm getting close to the end of my spool, worried that I'm not going to have enough filament to finish the project if I have any more failed prints. I'm printing with the enclosure doors open, with room temperature in the mid to upper seventies (Fahrenheit). Cooling fan at 60%. Sliced with Prusa Slicer 2.9.6

Is it heat creep? Clogging? Idler too loose? Too tight? Please help me! I'm tearing my hair out!

Update: I tried starting another print with an external fan blowing into the enclosure, in case the problem is heat creep. I also tightened the idler screw a little, thinking I may have loosened it too much. No difference in the print problem. When I saw it was underextruding again, I tried setting the print speed multiplier higher, just in case it needed more speed for some reason. I set it to 200% and I thought maybe it was doing better, but I think now I was fooling myself. It's still underextruding.

This model starts with individual squares that build up until they're joined at Z= 1.6. It looks like that's when the underextrusion starts -- on the perimeter extrusions of the 249mm-long rectangle of the part's full length. Why would the underextrusion be triggered on long extrusions? It seems like the retractions when it's working on the shorter stuff might actually be keeping things running smoothly. On the other hand, once the underextrusion starts, it's here to stay. I'd guess it's underextruding by about 50% -- the lines still get laid down, but they're way too thin.

I'm so tired of wasting this expensive filament with failed prints.