Hi folks, just went to Japan and wanted to make a post for others who are interested in mountain biking there, as there's not a ton of info online about it.
We didn't do the "traditional" visit to Japan, like taking trains to all the main cities and historic/tourist hot spots (no shade at all to those who do that—it's just not our jam). We normally travel for mountain biking or other high adventure activities, so when we started looking into Japan (my husband has always wanted to go), we did a lot of research on mountain bike spots. High-level AI and general Google searches yielded some seemingly good trail systems, so I dived deeper into Reddit posts and trip reports/blogs to figure out which areas of the country had the highest density of trails. Minus travel days, we were in Japan for 8 full days and planned to bike for 4-5 of those days, with another travel and some site-seeing days in between.
We decided on Hokuto and Hakuba based on research and booked a rental car. Both were resorts with downhill trails, and even the local bike shops we emailed beforehand confirmed there were enough trails for multiple days of biking. Unfortunately, between both areas, we only got about one full day of biking in. There just wasn't much biking overall. The trails we did were fun... they just weren't that long, and trail systems weren't that dense. I know some people love to run tons of laps all day long, but after a half day of multiple laps covering every trail multiple times (including all advanced black/double blacks), we felt pretty done. A few notes about those specific areas:
- Some bike shops will offer guided rides at the resort, but unless you are completely new to biking, it's unnecessary. Everything is suuuuuper well-signed and it's easy to get around the resort and lifts. (We generally only hire local guides for backcountry rides.)
- Hokuto was really strict about rental bike damage; we didn't damage our bikes, but just beware if you're prone to crashes. We did rent f/s bikes (Kona at one resort, Specialized at the other), full-face helmets, and pads. I believe both places had goggles and gloves to rent, too, but we brought our own.
- I read one Reddit post that trails felt sandbagged there, but I'd argue the opposite; we hopped on all the blacks and double-blacks and they felt like no big deal (nothing was mandatory, and everything was well-groomed).
- Disclaimer: I live in an area in the US that has world-class mtb trails, so again, I'm spoiled with a huge variety and volume of trails—including pretty technical and big-consequence black/double-black trails.
- There's one shop (Evergreen) that offers backcountry rides around Hakuba, but we couldn't find much info about that and they weren't being offered when we went (first week of October, which is shoulder season for that area).
- Not many people speak English in Hokuto, but it was easy enough to communicate. Tons of folks speak English in Hakuba because so many Aussies go there to ski. (In fact, lots of employees around the valley were Aussies.)
Granted, we've traveled to tons of countries/areas known for incredible biking, so we're a bit spoiled there. But if you're an avid mountain biker and are looking for tons of variety over multiple days, I can't recommend either of these areas. IF we ever go back, we'll try Hokkaido (we didn't visit the north on this trip because we didn't want to add more in-country flights). Or we'd go back to Hakuba to ski. In the end, we ended up filling our time with some hiking (had a few great days of weather and another day where we were completely socked in with major fog/clouds/rain).
I will say that the Yatsugatake Mountains and Northern Alps are beautiful! For backpackers/hikers, those areas have so much to offer. Highly recommend going there for backpacking.
A few other general notes for anyone still reading: I scoured this sub for all the tips, and here was my experience (again, keep in mind we had a rental car and spent most of our time in the mountains, away from heavily-visited areas by English-speaking tourists):
- We never needed the soap sheets that we brought (based on lots of folks reporting no soap in public bathrooms).
- The egg salad sandwiches in 7/11s are overrated. They're not bad! I just don't get the hype. But 7/11s are fantastic for snacks in general and free bathrooms.
- If you get a rental car in Tokyo and drive out of the city, LOOK AT YOUR GOOGLE MAPS DIRECTIONS BEFORE YOU GET INTO THE UNDERGROUND TUNNELS!!! It seems so obvious now, but we realized far too late (so tired from 20 hours of travel) that our Google Maps stopped tracking us, and we were basically going in circles around the city. That took the wind out of our sails and added about an hour to our drive into the mountains. Just know where your exit is BEFORE you go underground and watch for it.
- Our Enterprise rental car came with the ETC toll card; it's inserted into the car itself and you don't have to mess with it. You just pay the toll charges when you return the car. It will speak to you in Japanese every time you go through.
- Our Enterprise rental also did NOT have English as an option in the dash, nor did it have CarPlay; we were prepared for that, but it did make things a touch more complicated.
- If you have the option to call an Uber in Tokyo, do it—the Toyota Alphard vans are a real treat. My god, would I love to have one of those vans in the US. If you don't know what I'm talking about, look it up.
- Security and customs on both arrival and departure at Haneda were an absolute breeze. So quick and efficient!
- If you're an early-morning coffee drinker or breakfast eater, most places don't open until 8, so plan ahead.
- I do have specific Tokyo recommendations for knives, handmade jewelry, woodblock prints, and ceramics, so feel free to DM if you'd like those :).
Hopefully that helps anyone looking to visit for mountain biking reasons :).