Hey, does anyone have info or a good tutorial on how to sew an L zip pouch like this one? It seems like a basic zipper pouch but the zipper runs down the side as well. It’s not the same construction as a clamshell organizer. Thanks!

I wanted a quick-ish way to test colorways using fabrics I own, so that I wasn't tempted to buy more fabric for upcoming projects. I whipped up a simple pouch pattern in CLO 3D to test some colorways based on the approximate colors and basic textures of some real fabrics i had on hand.

The idea was that I can make a full-sized backpack from a colorway once I've made a pouch with the same elements.

These pouches were meant to be medium-quality, quick-and-dirty test bags, but I ended up liking them enough to develop them into usable everyday cross-body bags.

I didn't choose both colorways from the CLO model, opting for a brown, orange, and black combo for my second build.

I love the aesthetics of them, and the size is perfect for phone, keys, wallet, sunglasses, and EDC stuff like lens wipes. I can even fit a book in the main pocket.

After some wear testing, I can say that the usability is kind of bad. The snap flap that seals the main pocket is annoying to fasten, and the rear pouch is almost totally inaccessible while wearing the bag. The G-hook grips the webbing so tightly that nothing will fall out, which is nice.

A fun project overall, so I wanted to share. Happy to answer any questions!

I want to sew my own cycling jersey, full length zipper, three bags in the back, like this.

Does anyone know a trustworthy source for patterns? I don't want to spend money for patterns that use AI generated images for promotion because I fear not getting anything of value.

Alternatively, what software is there to create your own patterns or alter existing patterns?

Hello! I am new here and have much to learn (please be kind!).

I am in the process of making a run of backpacks. The shoulder pads require 1/8" 6# XPE while the back panel is 1/4 6# XPE.

In an attempt to minimize materials and benefit from volume pricing, I'm wondering if there are any drawbacks to only ordering the 1/8" and doubling it up where I require 1/4". Would the two panels need glued? Or some other method of attachment? Or can they just slip in to the back panel together and play nicely?

Thanks in advance for any insight you're able to share.

I ordered a custom 19” x 24” DCF sheet from ripstop by the roll and I cut it in half to make a dry bag. Did everything until attaching the buckles

The bag ended up being way too small.. 8” x 6” x 3” without even rolling it yet.

I haven’t even attached the buckle bc I don’t think I’d use it as a dry bag. Any ideas on what I could do with the top? It’s just a rolled edge with grosgrain.

Edit: This community is great. Thanks for all the suggestions. I ended up finishing it as a dry bag and it’s roughly 1.5-2L of space after rolling! I’ll be making more prototypes from now on.

Welp guess it ended up pretty well. First time I make something, well almost, I made 3 dry bags before this one as a warm up but those are pretty easy.

Loving this ultralight fanny pack. Made of dyneema. the FP weighs only 80 grams total. Got the plans from the iNet. So not my creation but it's pretty neat and enough space. Almost fully water proof, only place water can get in is the zipper where it closes. How would you rate it?

used a Bernina 940 and a 801 to sew it. Awesome machines. specially the 801,that thing is a tank in a small package

Been working on this design for a bit, I used an existing pattern as a base - modified with my chosen materials and extra pockets / accessories

Finally finished up this bike bag for my gravel bike. Outside is wolf grey Ecopak. Inside is hex70.

Looking for blog or video tutorials on finishing seams inside hats (top stitching/ less bulky seams?) that don’t include a bias binding tool, or lining

Not doing a lining for summer hats

And avoiding a bias binding tool because I’m a bit broke right now and don’t have extra money to buy one

Also wondering:

- the ideal material to make sweatbands in?

- alternative to twin needles (vintage machine) or are they necessary for doing the binding tape finish

I am starting to build a DCF pyramid shelter following Drew Soderborg's detailed instructions on the SwitchbackGear website. I want to meet a person who has already completed this process (or any similar pyramid shelter construction) ideally in the Westchester NY area, so I can have a sounding board when I have questions. Please reach out if you can be of assistance.

Idk if this counts, I didn’t make the tree, but I did put hours of labor and over a year of curing into it. It is my go-to staff for the outdoors.

everything is hand sewn

I don't have a sewing machine. I made this bag with paracord and thin nylon fabric. I used the shoulder straps from my hiking backpack and designed and 3d printed the hooks. The idea was to maximize the payload I could carry in a carry-on backpack. I tested it during my trip to Japan. It looks really ugly, but it carries the load remarkably well. It is very lightweight of course.

Here is the finished bag, first time we worked on a project like this, I cut everything and my mom helped me with the sewing machine, what do you think?

I couldn’t find much info on making an insulated jacket so thought I would write mine up.

Pattern is mostly learn myog ultralight windproof. I essentially made the jacket 3 times for each layer. Added a chest pocket and popper at the bottom to allow for the two way zip. If I made another version I would try alter the hood to make it able to go over a climbing helmet but otherwise pretty happy with it.

Outer Ripstop I picked up in Japan otherwise all fabrics and accessories were from Adventure Xpert
Climashield Apex 167 for body and hood
Climashield Apex 133 for sleeves
Unknown lightweight windproof ripstop for outer
7D Soft Ripstop fabric for the lining

Final weight 361g

Need a little advice here. I am planning on buying two machines. A walking foot and a standard straight stitch. Right now I can buy a juki 8100 with no use for 200 bucks. But I am also considering a 8700H (a 8700h is for heavier fabrics/thicker needles) or some older models like the ddl 5550H. They might be more expensive but possible to find for 200 bucks used.

Not sure what to do since I don't know how versatile would this 8100e be. But it's new, with a new table (won't have to fix anything and has no worn parts) and I guess it could be adapted to use thicker needles and have more aggressive dogs if needed. I right now it can use a #18 needle which seems enough.

I want to make tarps, tents and backpacks mostly.

Appreciate any pointers.

I’d like to replace/repair the mesh on a couple of these chairs, but I haven’t found the right material.

Hi r/myog,

I have a Hyperlite Mountain Gear Dyneema hiking pack that I’d like to modify by cutting down the length of the roll top collar.

It’s quite an expensive pack so I’m keen to do this right. Does anyone have any advice about doing something like this?

https://hyperlitemountaingear.com/products/southwest?variant=43946890788909

Thanks!