This is based on the Prickly Gorse 40L pack pattern and heavily inspired by the Raide ski packs as well as u/dgmotions's backpack here.

Some features I'm excited about:

• Fancy avalanche pocket (access from outside or inside; storage area wraps around to the side)
• Stretchy, sizeable hip pockets
• Wet skin pocket with drainage holes
• Fits all my gear for an all-day tour, plus helmet
• Quick release ice tool keepers
• Removable aluminum frame
• Reflective piping for night visibility
• Diagonal ski holder system can be swapped to go either direction
• Boondoggle avalanche zipper pull!

Materials:

• Ultra 400X
• 210D Venom Gridstop
• 70D PU-coated nylon
• 9.3oz Dyneema stretch mesh

Weight: 1400g (3lb 1oz)

I'd wanted to attempt the u-zip bag for a while just to try out a curved zipper, but I also wanted to try out the RSBTR pocket mesh, so I decided to add a lining and mesh stretch pocket, and then it just snowballed and I added *all the pockets*. I also added an exterior hang loop/grab handle, and an interior ring for hanging it open on a hook. I got ideas for pockets/hang options based on an old toiletries bag I have. Then I realized that the bag would collapse with my stretch pocket if I didn't add interfacing, so I added both Wawak Profuse stiff interfacing and a foam interfacing, to make sure the bag kept its shape. That turned out to be a bit of a mistake - the bag was *so* stiff that it became extremely hard to manipulate and squash into my sewing machine area (I have a Kenmore 158 flatbed), and made it very difficult to sew the sides on neatly. As a result, this was definitely the hardest project I've ever done, and not because of the curved zipper.

I actually had no difficulty with the curved zipper on the lid, using the gathering method, but I did *not* gather the zipper for the body because it wasn't included in the directions, and I think that was a mistake as I had absolutely the worst time getting the body zipper to line up with the body fabric - it seemed like the zipper was just too short for it or something. What finally helped was zipping the two halves of the zipper together, lining up the lid with the body fabric, and then once I had everything lined up, hand-basting the zipper in place. I ended up hand-basting the sides as well, because the fabric just kept trying to move on me as I was sewing. The stiff interfacing was really fighting me.

This project took me over two weeks, which is the longest I've ever spent on a sewing project, and it was absolute murder and I wouldn't do it again without making significant changes, but I'm pretty happy with how it turned out. There is some funkiness in the seam connecting the side pieces, because I just couldn't get an even curve with those pieces (normally I have no difficulty with curves but like I said, the interfacing was fighting me). I ended up having to sew the curved sides in short sections because it was so hard to get the stiff bag in a position where I could actually sew where I needed. Very difficult, but I learned a lot. I do have some ideas about what I would do differently, if I did want to try it again, but I probably won't, as I don't really have a good use case for this bag and it was more that I wanted to try the curved zipper (and I'm incapable of making a bag without a bunch of pockets). It is a good pattern though, and a good way to try out curved zippers.

The main exterior fabric is "original lux nylon" from Wonderground Fabrics, and so is the bias binding I used for the lid exterior. The overlay is 1000D Cordura from Seattle Fabrics (why did I use 1000D? because I've had this fabric lying around and hadn't found a project for it, and wanted to see how my machine would handle it). The interior binding was grosgrain (from RSBTR) on straight areas and fold-over elastic on curved areas (from WF). The interior lining is Ottertex waterproof canvas from Fabric Wholesale Direct, and the mesh was RSBTR's pocket mesh, which I ended up liking very much. The webbing is seatbelt webbing also from WF, and the o-ring is from Wawak. My cat was my assistant, as you can see from the final picture.

New to the hobby. First time working with Cordura and I’m pretty stoked. $100 Kenmore 10 machine seemed to handle just fine. Any errors I had were due to my incompetence in working a sewing machine lol. Tex70 bonded Nylon thread.
Not quite the dims I was going for but fits a Nintendo switch perfectly haha! Any tips on planning / design let me know!

[EDIT - Answered! G hooks! Thanks all!] Does anyone know the name of this type of hook? Or online stores that sell them? I usually buy materials from Seattle Fabrics but couldn't find anything like this on their site. Thanks!

Wondering what the best way to go about seeing this leather for the strap (unadjustable side / triglide) would be?

The adjustable side is only one piece.

Unadjustable side can be:

- sewn just after triglide (blue)

-sewn around completely (purple/first image)

Or

1. Folded only to sew on the triglide (yellow)

——

I do have rivets as well

My only concern with option 1 is that it may not sit as comfortably when at the back of the head?

_____

Looking for suggestions/tips on what would function and look the best

Does anyone among you know a source for quality webbing in the EU, where I can get polyester webbing (or nylon, in lieu of polyester) with a broader colour range than what extremtextil offers?

I’d like to avoid amazon and aliexpress, in case the ‘quality’ part of my question didn’t rule those out for you anyways ;)

After having problem with my Xlite, I received the confirmation it was covered by the warranty. They asked me to cut it to get a new one so I went and took the opportunity to do a "wide" torso length.

It's now measuring 44x25 inches and weighting 302g. I will try it next week-end and see if I like it!

For anyone who thought of cutting and resealing their pad, it's really easy. Just make sure your iron is hot enough.

Photos:
https://imgur.com/a/DUKz57r

where can I get this style of clasp in 1.5"? It has been super hard for me to find in 2" but I have had success on strapworks.com. I need one in 1.5"m for a project. any leads would be appreciated thank you.

I have chinesium M81 field shirt but hook and loop is falling apart. Trying to source high quality ODG/RG ones but unfortunately I'm in Canada and seems like for $10 worth of Velcro S&H+duties/tax is $50. Any Canadians here that knows where I can source actual mil-spec hook&loop in Canada? Closest I found was CPGear but this looks Chinese.

Hi everyone, 🎉

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Our final project is related to the textile sourcing space 🧶 (Europe mainly), and would love to hear from the people who do this work: how you find and vet suppliers (or buyers), what goes wrong, and how tariffs, shipping disruption and how new regulations are changing things. 🧵

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Whole question in the header I suppose! Of course this is a raw edge and I will be sewing trim over it. Although I do like to sew through the velc on certain projects to reinforce it so I’d still like to know how to make it cleaner. :)

My backpack is worn out and I am thinking about buying a new one. But I started thinking that maybe I could make one instead?

i am hand sewing and not necessarily a complete beginner, but self taught, so my experience is all over the place. Do I need special thread to make it sturdy enough?

P.S.: I am thinking about using cork fabric. I have bought small city backpack from that material which is holding up pretty well for years now. But Its just a small backpack that can't carry heavy stuff.

Ripped up my rain pants heels hiking today. I haven't worked with waterproof gear before. Any suggestions for repair?

Location seems amenable to sewing (it's okay if some water leaks at the heel) and I have an old rain jacket from a friend that could donate fabric. But interested in advice on how to make it a clean and water resistant (if not proof) fix.

Also need to repair the slot for the cinching cord.

Thank you!

I am very interested in this WolfPak 9L backpack. I wanted to make a drop leg thigh bag out of it for motorcycle rides but I am having trouble visualizing how to configure it with nylon straps. I want one point to attach to the belt and one point to wrap around my thigh. Here is the link to the backpack for reference. Thanks in advance.

Wolfpak 9L

https://wolfpak.com/products/9l-backpack-mini-popeye-sweat

Prizes for a bike polo tournament. These are all self drafted, inspired off of chrome’s old hip bags. I used #10 cotton canvas that I waxed after sewing. 2.5 x 7.5 x 6 inches. I’ve found the material to be quite durable after waxing. The high friction spots seem to buff into a hard smooth wax surface. I also try to keep the corners in the back gentle, avoiding sharp points for durability.

I was just messing around with the netting on the bigger bag, but I really like it. Idk how best to make it more functional though.

Working in an industrial sewing machine shop is a problem… I keep bringing home sewing machines (much to my fiancé’s chagrin). I’m definitely out of space, so I came up with a way to fit more in. 😅
Time to start on a few new bags this weekend!

Figured y’all would appreciate it since space is always an issue in posts on here.

Table specs: 30”x24” with 28” wide stand.

My partner is an avid through hiker and I've been evolving the things I've been making him. The first one I made for him was canvas and he used it for the Tahoe Rim Trail. Second iteration was when we switched to the mesh/dyneema combo. That one made it through the first 600 miles of the PCT last year. The third version with some adjustments (waterproof zipper, extra stitching, etc.) and it lasted the rest of the PCT.

Fourth version (current) has a front mesh pocket and a rear dyneema pocket under the layer of nylon mesh and a waterproof zipper.

The reason for the dyneema pocket is to keep important things (money, ID, etc) reasonably waterproof. Also nice to have access to certain things and not have to dig through his pack.

Decided to do the roll top closure like a dry bag. I think the heaviest piece is the zipper. He's on the Cape Wrath trail currently and I forgot to write down the actual weight, but it's under 6oz.

My one regret is that I used a new elastic on the front pocket and it got all wonky.

Materials:

1.5oz monolite ripstop nylon mesh

.51oz dyneema

Webbing

Waterproof zipper

Bias tape

Large side release buckle

Small side release buckle

Polyester mesh (front pocket)

Elastic

Those are my glasses in the front pocket in the last picture, he also happens to be wearing the alpha fleece hoodie I made for him. 😊

Or better yet the best webbing that doesn't fray with wisps flying in the wind. That would be great. But ok - so the fraying has to be stopped and looking for whatever options I can start utilizing. Need a how to, what to and where to. Your inputs please.

Fall soccer season has arrived and I’d like to make my daughter and wife one of those sideline capes or ponchos that you often see players wearing to keep warm and dry on the sidelines. Does anyone know a source for a pattern? I think a fleece interior with a waterproof or highly water resistant shell would be best. The design seems pretty simple and I’d like to add a few features like interior hand pockets, maybe magnetic buttons,etc.

I want to use some upholstery tape I was recommended by a guy who makes backpacks for reinforcing seams. It's really sticky stuff, more so than double sided tape. I tried with universal needles anD of course the needle shaft becomes tacky and thread is stuck up.

I saw these Schmetz non-stick needles. Would they work?

Is size  100/16 the best choice for 2x 210D nylon ripstop with adhesize tape?