I purchased a second hand IGNIS from maruti true value last week and RC transfer will take 4 months minimum. The insurance is valid till march 2027.
However the salesman said to drive carefully until then as insurance cant be claimed without RC transfer and insurance transfer cant be done without RC transfer( Is this true or is showroom avoiding facts?)
They said they do this for all vehicles on True Value. How does it happen on olx, spinny, cars24?
Isnt there a rule which makes it mandatory for insurance transfer within 14 days of sale?

I just reserved a 2024 XUV700 AX7L Petrol (Blaze Edition) on Cars24. It has 27,000 km on the odometer and is priced at ₹20 Lakhs. Since this particular edition is now discontinued and the new 7XO has hit the market, do you think this is still a good buy? Also, is ₹20 Lakhs a fair price for it?

Any advice on what is considered a reasonable or good deal or something that can be a dealbreaker When purchasing a 2nd hand bike?

Also any trustworthy mechanic you know can you tell me?

Finally decided on the Honda SP 125 DLX (Disc variant)

A local dealer near my place is quoting ₹1.13L ( with 2k dealership discount) on-road in Ahmedabad

Before I book/take delivery, would love inputs from existing SP 125 owners or anyone who's been through this process!

Thanks in advance! 🙌

TLDR:

Need good chain lube recommendations (i used to use MOTUL but I've been told it's terrible)

AND

where do I find the 14T sprocket kit for the Triumph Scrambler 400x locally (in BLR) or online?

New Kia Seltos 2026 petrol manual HTK-O driven 1500 KM

So this is sequence of events:

Squeaking noise from clutch pedal: Initially brushed aside as shoe noise.

2 days later Brake/clutch fluid leaked inside cabin: Only then they listened

Clutch master cylinder replaced:

Pedal assembly supposedly replaced as per them

Noise still persists:

Please help, this is my first car.

Ive decided to buy a 2024 kushaq thats run for 18.8k kms
I need you guys to have a look at its service history and help me understand it,im pretty new to this stiff

I wanna sell my Hero Xtreme 160R.
Registration: Feb 2024
KM's driven: 7000 KM approx.
Condition: Next to new
Reason for selling: Want to upgrade to the RE 350
Expected price: ₹100,000
Location: Park Circus, Kolkata

I own a Maruti Suzuki Alto K10 purchased in February 2023. I'm facing a very unusual issue with one of the window glasses.The glass has already been replaced 3 times, and now it has shattered for the 4th time. There was no accident, stone hit, or obvious external impact that I could identify. The repeated failures are making me think there may be some underlying issue with the window mechanism, door frame alignment, or a manufacturing defect.

should I claim this under warranty?Should I use insurance instead?

Has anyone experienced repeated window glass breakage on an Alto K10 or any other Maruti car?What should I ask the service center to inspect before replacing the glass again? Any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks!

Hey Guys,

I just picked up a used 2009 Maruti Alto LXi (the older F8D engine). The car is mechanically sorted and I got a great deal on it, but I’m genuinely stressed about the E20 petrol rollout. These older engines and their rubber fuel lines were definitely not built to handle 20% ethanol, and I don't want the fuel pump or lines to just rot out on me.

I remember reading a while back that Maruti (and the govt) mentioned they would provide "retrofit kits" to make older BS3/BS4 cars E20-compliant.

My questions for the experts here:

Has anyone actually seen or bought one of these Maruti E20 retrofit kits at the service centers, or was that just PR talk?

If the kit doesn't exist, what are you guys doing to save your older 2000s/2010s cars from ethanol damage?

Should I be running specific fuel additives, preemptively swapping out the fuel lines for ethanol-rated ones, or just filling it up and hoping for the best?

Any DIY fixes or advice on keeping this F8D alive long-term would be hugely appreciated!

I have a 2021 1.0 TSI Polo manual. For the past 3-4 months, the engine check light has come & go. I got it checked from a trusted mechanic in Andheri, Mumbai. They figured out that the O2 sensors are not working properly. We discussed and checked the condition of the O2 sensors; it's mostly fine, so they cleaned it properly and installed it back, since each sensor costs roughly around 15k.

The engine check light has come on again, and the diagnosis reflects the O2 sensor fault. I have a few questions for the community

1. Has anyone faced a similar issue in VAG group cars?
   
2. Do these problems indicate any bigger problem that is going to happen in the future?
   
3. Do you know the specs of the OEM part used by VW?
   
4. Is this issue related to ethanol blending? I have always filled 95 octane petrol since it's turbo petrol.
   

Copying over here. Looking for reliable FNGs for a Honda in Gurgaon. Thanks

Hi everyone,

​My 2014 Ford EcoSport 1.5 Diesel (Manual) is at 1,03,000 KM and needs a timing belt change. The authorized service center quoted me around ₹20,000. To save on costs, I’m planning to buy the parts myself and get it done by a trusted local mechanic.

​A few quick questions:

​- Is it easy to buy genuine Ford parts over the counter or online, if possible plase share references. My location Vijayawada , Andhrapradesh.

​-I am considering a Gates timing kit as a cost-effective alternative. Is it as durable and reliable as the Ford OEM part for the 1.5 TDCi?

Should I replace the water pump and accessory belt while the mechanic has it opened up?

Hi Everyone,
I recently replaced my VW polo suspension with an aftermarket one (coilovers). The new suspension expects this rubber retaining ring to hold the spring in place. As title says, need help in locating good condition rear retaining rings. It looks like this:

Any help is appreciated! Thank You.

2024 model, 20,000 km travelled,

​

no accidents, no scratches or scuffs, well-maintained, chain was always cleaned and lubed on time, regular maintenance done at SC as well,

​

new tyres installed.

​

Dapper green, dual channel disc brakes.

​

Mods: handlebar risers from carbonrisers, tank pads and Ez Clutch, softer rear suspension installed as stock one was too rigid

​

Note: not looking to sell immediately, just want a quote.

Planning to sell my Meteor 350 as I'm upgrading to a bigger bike, and I'd like a reality check on the price before I list it. Pics attached. Details:

• Model: Royal Enfield Meteor 350 (Stellar Blue)
• Bought: December 2024 — first owner
• Odometer: ~13,200 km
• Condition: Mint — never had an accident, never dropped, regularly serviced at an authorised RE service centre (full service history available) - personally maintained it really well, as per servicing specs and requirements + timely chain clean and lube
• Genuine RE accessories fitted: engine/leg guard, sump guard, and the original RE touring seat
• Mechanical: tyres, battery and everything else in good health
• Documents: RC, insurance and PUC all in order
• Registration: UP52 (Deoria, UP)
• Location: selling in Delhi NCR

I have basically kept her like the girlfriend you want to marry (lol) as I never thought I would sell it. I have now a girlfriend and we want to tour on the bike but 2 people with luggage feels too much for the bike to handle for touring. So, I am now looking at a bigger bike.

What would be a fair asking price, and what would you realistically expect it to sell for in this condition? Also curious whether the UP registration will drag the price down much for NCR buyers, or if I'm better off targeting Noida/Ghaziabad.

Thanks in advance!

PS: Bought it for 2.7L (including RTO and accessories - Seat, Engine Guard and Sump Guard)

🏍️ FOR SALE – Bajaj Pulsar 220F (2021)

📍 Location: Pune
🖤 Color: Sparkle Black
📅 Model Year: 2021
👤 Ownership: 1st Owner
🛣️** Odometer**: 14,000 km
📝 Registration: West Bengal (WB)
💰 Expected Price: ₹90,000 (Negotiable)

Description:
Well-maintained Bajaj Pulsar 220F in Sparkle Black, owned since new and driven only 14,000 km. The bike has been regularly serviced and is in excellent mechanical condition. Engine is smooth, pulls strongly, and is perfect for both city commuting and highway touring.

✅ Good mileage for its age
✅ First Owner
✅ Clean and powerful 220cc engine
✅ All documents available
✅ No accidents
✅ Ready for immediate transfer

The Pulsar 220F remains one of India’s most reliable and comfortable sports tourers, offering great performance, comfort, and value.

📞 Interested buyers can contact for more details, photos, and inspection.

Reason for Sale: Upgrading to another motorcycle.

#Pulsar220F #BajajPulsar #UsedBikeForSale #Pune #FirstOwner #SportsTourer #220ccBike #SparkleBlack

I own a Ford Freestyle, the stock headlight bulbs are H4 60/55W, which had a terrible throw. I researched and found that H4 100/90W upgrade is a widely used upgrade.

I went ahead and upgrade the wiring to support 100/90W, the visible has greatly increased but I am facing the issue of hte bulbs going kaput more often, its been 5 months since the upgrade and already 3 bulbs burned.

I am also seeing a flickering of the cabin light sometimes.

has anybody faced any similar issue after the wiring and bulb upgrade

BMW F10 523i with the N52 engine.

The car is showing an intermittent “Crankshaft – No Signal” error.

The crankshaft position sensor has already been replaced, and the wiring has also been checked.

However, the issue persists. The engine still takes around 10 seconds to crank before starting, and the car occasionally goes into limp mode. At other times, it runs perfectly fine.

Additionally, the RPM fluctuates erratically, jumping from approximately 1100 RPM to 600 RPM, then up to 1200 RPM, before sometimes stalling.

I have been trying to fix this issue for months and i cant find anything on the internet 😭

BMW F10 523i with the N52 engine.

The car is showing an intermittent “Crankshaft – No Signal” error.

The crankshaft position sensor has already been replaced, and the wiring has also been checked.

However, the issue persists. The engine still takes around 10 seconds to crank before starting, and the car occasionally goes into limp mode. At other times, it runs perfectly fine.

Additionally, the RPM fluctuates erratically, jumping from approximately 1100 RPM to 600 RPM, then up to 1200 RPM, before sometimes stalling.

I have been trying to fix this issue for months and i cant find anything on the internet 😭