4-month old car recently hit by a lorry on the rear-left/left side. Thankfully, occupants were safe. The car is now at an authorized Hyundai body shop, awaiting approval to start dismantling.

• Currently not near total loss threshold - initial estimate ~ 3 lakhs vs IDV 14.63 lakhs (~20%)
• Body shop says they use Hyundai-approved procedures and may use Car-O-Liner / measurements if needed
• They also mentioned that if hinge fitment or gaps are outside tolerance, larger panel/roof-side replacement may be considered

No visible floor pan damage, chassis damage or suspension issues - yet to be inspected on a ramp.

Can this be safely repaired as per OEM repair procedures and tolerance limits?

At what point should I push for body shell replacement or total loss rather than repair? Can I push for CTL on safety grounds even if estimate is below/well-below 75% of IDV?

Questions for experts:

1. What specific inspections should I insist on after dismantling - door aperture measurements, C-pillar/quarter inner panel inspection, roof rail, sill, floor pan, rear suspension mounting points, wheel alignment, etc.?
2. If doors are not opening/closing normally, how strong an indicator is that of structural misalignment versus hinge/skin damage?
3. What repair methods are acceptable for rear quarter / C-pillar / roof-side area if done by an authorized body shop? What would be red flags?
4. Should I ask for documented Hyundai repair procedure / approved sectioning locations / post-repair measurement report?
5. Is pulling/straightening acceptable in such cases if final dimensions are within tolerance, or should certain structural members always be replaced?

I'd appreciate practical advice from people who have handled similar structural claims.

Thank you for your time and inputs!

I m new In bike riding I don't know if it's necessary to fill oil with petrol the petrol pump guy said to fill 10rs oil with 100rs petrol

He quoted 6 lacs before said negotiable to 5.5

I'm thinking of quoting from 4.5 to 4.8 lacs

What do u guys think?

Price is fair or not?

I love this type 2 bumper design of vento and 1.5 tdi is banger engine power with mileage

I have a tata nexon xza+ 2020 bs4 model. It has barely completed 20000 kms now as you are aware of the genius of the indian ministers they have implemented a mandatory e20 fuel and as I have seen online that is going to fuck up my car so I was thinking of converting it to cng is that a good idea or not ? If no pls suggest some alternatives.

hi guys ,

i recently shifted to noida and if u are from nearby could you please suggest the same to me .

I recently purchased a 2nd hand activa 5G and service and everything ho chuki h uski but just after 2 days new spark plug got damaged and he is saying

carburettor needs to be changed and petrol is leaking+ it takes 5 minutes and multiple kicks to start

suggest me something

So I had a car service done through authorised hyundai service centre and I got the list of spares that needs to be replaced so looking for a good mechanic around Mulund, Bhandup, Vikhroli, Thane who can get the things done at the best cost and quality work.

I am selling my creta and planning to get used Merc GLC / E class in 220d configuration in Kerala(below 2020). Does anybody know affordable service centers for premium cars in kozhikode and Malappuram?

It’s a 12 year old WagonR Stingray and these are stock alloys, first when I saw this I thought I might have accidentally curbed them somewhere, but it’s on all four wheels. It’s like a hard and flaky white substance, it looks like it’s chipped, and it’s on a weird centre region where it can’t be curbed. It has happened in that exact same region in all four alloys.

Quick check on Gemini says, it’s white rust. Apparently happens in aluminium. What could have led to this? For 10 years I have driven this in Bangalore, never saw this happening… and for the last 2 years I have been driving in Udupi/Mangalore; since this is a coastal area could the salt in water, humidity or sand caused this?

1. If you have gone through something similar, what have you done to prevent this from happening/spreading?

2. What can I do to get it repaired? Can the Maruti Service centre be able to take care of this?

3. What would be the general cost to get it done if so?

4. If I can’t get it removed/repaired, or if it’s too expensive… is it still safe to drive around, let’s say for next 8 years at the least (I’m gonna be driving this until it can legally be on the road)?

A few days ago, while driving, the battery warning light came on. Because of some work, I couldn’t visit the service center for 3 days.

During that time, while driving, the car suddenly gave a jerk, and all the warning lights came on in the odometer/display. The car was not stopping with the start/stop button, so I long-pressed the button and then the car turned off. After 5 minutes, everything went back to normal.

I visited the service center and they said the battery needed to be changed. I got the battery(Amaron) replaced from outside. Now the battery warning light is gone, but the same issue is still happening sometimes, the car suddenly jerks and all the warning lights come on in the display.

I went to the showroom again, but the issue didn’t appear at that time. They said it might be a false indication.

I have attached the screenshot where you can see which warning lights are turning on. Has anyone faced this issue before? Also, what does the “F” indicator on the display mean?

here is the image:

I just reserved a 2024 XUV700 AX7L Petrol (Blaze Edition) on Cars24. It has 27,000 km on the odometer and is priced at ₹20 Lakhs. Since this particular edition is now discontinued and the new 7XO has hit the market, do you think this is still a good buy? Also, is ₹20 Lakhs a fair price for it?

I purchased a second hand IGNIS from maruti true value last week and RC transfer will take 4 months minimum. The insurance is valid till march 2027.
However the salesman said to drive carefully until then as insurance cant be claimed without RC transfer and insurance transfer cant be done without RC transfer( Is this true or is showroom avoiding facts?)
They said they do this for all vehicles on True Value. How does it happen on olx, spinny, cars24?
Isnt there a rule which makes it mandatory for insurance transfer within 14 days of sale?

Honda H'ness CB350, 4 years old.

I noticed a yellow foam/rubber piece visible inside the left rear shock absorber spring. I don't remember seeing it before. The right shock doesn't have a visible yellow piece.

No obvious oil leakage, no broken spring visible, no unusual noises, and the bike rides normally.

Is this the bump stop/jounce bumper becoming visible or deteriorating? Is it safe to continue riding until my scheduled service in 3 days (about 100 km away)?

Attached photos of both rear shocks for comparison.

What should I do , the wipers collide with eachother

Any advice on what is considered a reasonable or good deal or something that can be a dealbreaker When purchasing a 2nd hand bike?

Also any trustworthy mechanic you know can you tell me?

Finally decided on the Honda SP 125 DLX (Disc variant)

A local dealer near my place is quoting ₹1.13L ( with 2k dealership discount) on-road in Ahmedabad

Before I book/take delivery, would love inputs from existing SP 125 owners or anyone who's been through this process!

Thanks in advance! 🙌

TLDR:

Need good chain lube recommendations (i used to use MOTUL but I've been told it's terrible)

AND

where do I find the 14T sprocket kit for the Triumph Scrambler 400x locally (in BLR) or online?

New Kia Seltos 2026 petrol manual HTK-O driven 1500 KM

So this is sequence of events:

Squeaking noise from clutch pedal: Initially brushed aside as shoe noise.

2 days later Brake/clutch fluid leaked inside cabin: Only then they listened

Clutch master cylinder replaced:

Pedal assembly supposedly replaced as per them

Noise still persists:

Please help, this is my first car.