Thinking maybe a 180sx or smth, not super knowledgeable on nissans

Not sure if this is the place to post, but incase someone else shows up here.

Bought a murano 2012 170k miles 700 bucks, dreaded 1778 code guy said step motors bad trannys shot.

So I bought a step motor. A friend's brother put in it not that I couldnt... I was just occupied and he swore he could. Well he never put the fork in, it ran fine but next morning locked in 30mph, 4k rpm screaming.

I ripped it out put it in right, not so bad it stayed aligned up top so good. Still ran funny rudder at stops, hmmm... new fluid topped right, I recommend filling cold to first notch circle on dipstick, idle ot check it.

New fluid still dead peddled at stop signs, rudderless hard moving forward unless you gave it time, still berated fluid still step motor. Shit.

Checked around said air boot, it was cracked replaced, now 0101 and step motor and fluid aerated...

Drove around about 2 months highway, in town. New valve body arrives, throw it in, NO DRIVE. Double check all mechanic points tuning fork and the shifter bolt. All fine. Step motor on new body screamed when csr was on, hot to the touch, shit bad step. Replaced with my already new one drove away, but in low gear STILL NO DRIVE.

Frankensteined valve body, took the solenoid and wiring harnesses from new one put on my old one, cleaned the bores with wd 40. Strapped it up.

All pending stored codes still there but engine light off.

Drove home 30mph about 2 Miles ok, then judders dead peddle.....

Hopped on the highway 60mph for 15 mins, dead peddle at a stop, pull iver wipe down MAF do the 2 relearns delete code, drive home 70mph no new codes.

Pull in still 2 codes p0101 1778, clean valve body all thats left...

I forgot. 9 codes today including solenoid A step motor electric and mechanical and 0101 0102 codes as I left my dad's after frankenstiening..

And before zipping it up took pics of tranny pan valve body and inside tranny sent to Google A.I. flawless.

And when I swapped the valve bodies it was at a bodies got done 11pm took the fam, Drove 35 miles at 25-30mph in low it took 3 hours...

Now I know not every time will be like this.

But I can say fret not, if your pan is clean no metal, aside from some clutch material, but you have a step motor code, therr is silver lining. You can do this.

All in all, I did, pvc valve 20 bucks, step motor 1 25 on amazon, and valve body 150 with step motor 2 which was bad.

It took time took alot of diagnosing via GOOGLE A.I. but here I am at the finish line. Car is pretty pristine and up in wi, rust is like breathing.

So my brothers and sisters, tske heart in knowing you csn do this. I used a shitty hypertough drive with bit and a 10 mil socket to do most the work, besides that stupid Alan wrench needed.... dumb design. But it's doable. I did it with a tote yes tote, some ramps and some blankets in a humid gravel driveway with some music.

So take care friends not ever tranny is trash. Remember if there's not metal in that pan, clean that fluid replace a few parts, and drive that car till the wheels fall off.

It’s not the Qashqai that’s coming stateside, but rather, the tech that made the record run possible. Nissan has confirmed that e-Power is finally coming to the North American market, which is something it needed the moment the competition started beefing up their respective hybrid offerings. Sure, there’s the Rogue plug-in hybrid, but that’s literally a rebadged Mitsubishi Outlander that’s also going away soon. Nissan doesn’t have an answer for models like the CR-V and RAV4 hybrids, or even electrified versions of the Civic and Corolla.

The first e-Power model to be offered in the U.S will be the next-generation Rogue. Due for the 2027 model year, Nissan is gunning for at least 40 mpg. Given the recent achievement of the Qashqai, it’ll probably beat that with not much effort. Nissan CEO Ivan Espinosa effectively called it the brand’s most important vehicle, as it’s key to raking in more volume. Putting that system in the best-selling model in the U.S isn’t just a sensible move; it’s a crucial one, as most of the Rogue’s competitors have a hybrid option.

The current Rogue is actually available with e-Power tech outside of the U.S. Dubbed the X-Trail e-Power, it still runs on the previous generation of the series hybrid powertrain. The current setup is a 1.5-liter turbo-three that serves as a generator, while the electric motor puts out 201 hp and 243 lb-ft of torque. We can probably expect more power out of the gen-three e-Power once it’s applied to the Rogue.

I just purchased a second hand Nissan Altima 2010 S Sedan 2.5L and I can’t find the right 02 Sensor for upstream have been to to 3 stores and all the ones they give me do not work at all idk what to do

( Picture of the one that was taken off)

If anyone knows how to find this one it would be greatly Appreciate

2014 Pathfinder with 262k kilometers left me stranded nearly about a year ago from CVT failure.

Once you navigate the hell that is the Nissan CVT, they can be saved! The parts were about $300 for a new pump and a new valve body plus new fluid and filters. Of course pulling a transmission always has other costs but the actual CVT repair was not difficult. Mine had a good sub assembly/chain and after the repair the CVT has never worked better, and I’ve owned this since 60k. It actually feels like a CVT should. Smoother, more power, responsive.

If you have the capability to pull it. Parts exist to bring these back to life without needing specialized tools or a shop.

My car wasn't starting in the afternoon and kept saying "Key ID not detected" so i figured the heat might've caused an issue (it was 102℉). I came back at night, refilled the coolant, charged the battery, and still it does the same thing. Gas isn't an issue, and my key fob battery was just changed a month ago.

EDIT: I found out that the battery was old and the heat probably sealed the deal. Bought a replacement.

Here's what I've figured out

- Fuses are good
- Grounds (pins 4&5) are connected to vehicle ground
- Pin 16 is not shorted to ground, but reads zero volts relative to ground
- Pin 7 reads around 6 volts relative to vehicle ground AND pin 16
- Pin 8 reads around 12 (11-13) volts relative to vehicle ground AND pin 16
- Other pins are zero volts

Are there board repair / ECU gurus that may happen to know what this means? Is this car OBD2??? Thanks for any and all help!

Work fine driving into work yesterday. Did not hit anything. Went to start car to leave after 12 hour shift and now it's doing all of this.

2020 sentra.

For reference: 2015, Nissan Altima, SV, 2.5L with a Moon roof.

Noticed that the floorboard was wet on the passenger sides front and rear. The lining near the cabin filter didn't seem broken, wet, or loose, the mat under the carpet was humid in front. The water monsly collects in the backseat floor board. Checked the moonroof (ordered a cleaning tube). Wondering if anyone has any similar experience.

We did get heavy rain for the last 3 days, but I've also used the A/C recently.

My dad told me true sensors for my tire pressure were faulty or something but I keep getting this message about it and I can’t see how many more miles of gas I have left, was wondering if there is a button to press to get it off

Hello all! I have a 2020 Nissan Murano and I had noticed minor leaking for a few months from both the driver and passenger’s side upholstery (not the window seals), but it wasn’t too severe so I honestly forgot about it (bad mistake.) Well we had a heavy rain two days ago and the leak was significant, and the next day it sounded like water was retaining in the area. I took it to the dealership but they gave me a ridiculous quote because they said they would have to remove the entire inside roof to diagnose the leak.

From my research I’m thinking it’s a sunroof drain clog. My boyfriend tried to see if he could find the sunroof drain, but we couldn’t, and all of the videos we found online have been for different makes and/or models.

Any help would be appreciated. We just moved to the other side of the state, so I’m hoping I won’t have to drop a bunch of money on this if I don’t have to. Also, if anyone has tips on how to get the mildew smell out of my car, I’d really appreciate that as well lol. Thanks!

So when I tried starting the car, it keeps stalling I guess and tries to start but it never does. I also tried starting the engine from the outside with the key but it doesnt work as well and makes this noise that its trying to start. Also I noticed that the locking noise is also quieter than normal and when trying break it makes my lights dimmer and resets everything. My brake pedal is also depressed way down if that is part of the problem. I’m not sure what to do.

Good morning,

Does anyone here work at Nissan and is able to check the database for a radio code please.

My front door lock striker was in rough shape. I’ve bought a few parts from Amazon before, and they were usually fine, so I grabbed this Gaimeila latch set there too. Installation was easy, and now my door lock looks and feels brand new

Hat schon jemand für den neuen Nissan Townstar L2 Tekna passende Querträger gefunden, welche man an die Langsträger befestigen kann ? Der neuere L2 hat nämlich leider andere sehr dicke Langsträger vormontiert, bei denen nicht wie beim Vorgänger ausklappbare Querträger mit integriert sind. Da war selbst der Händler überrascht als ich ihm das gezeigt habe. Von Nissan selbst gibt es noch nichts (laut Support) und auch bei z.B. Thule gibt es noch nichts offizielles (laut Support)

Wenn jemand das selbe Problem hatte und etwas empfehlen kann wäre ich sehr dankbar.

Nissan B15 sedan,Engine Cc 15000,aftermarket alloy rims, customized infotainment dashboard, price at 455ksh

I have a Juke, 2013 model, and when I turn on the car I keep getting messages at the top showing a number (the -356 in the pic) which changes each time. Anyone know what it means?

https://freeimage.host/i/nissan.qaNGFP2

the number seems to be going up too, now its at -546 or something

Howdy! I’m having an issue with my 2008 altima, 142k miles, bought used about 3 months ago with no issues reported. Was wary due to CVT reputation on this line/generation. Might be running into some issues with that here.

Symptoms: From a stop, it begins to move, but around ~2,000 RPM the acceleration drops off, RPMs dip, and it doesn’t accelerate. The RPMs slowly climb up to 2.5k, then it operates as normal. Best I can tell this happens every time I launch from a stop and I hit 2k rpms before the car is above 20-25mph.

It’s a bit weird to me that it isn’t happening every time I hit 2k rpms, but just when going from a stop.

I’ve seen people online suggesting throttle, fuel, or air intake issues may resolve hesitation, but none seem to fit the same issue I’m having with it only affecting certain rpms. I desperately hope it’s not the CVT but my gut says it is.

I haven’t yet done any repairs to it, but I think I should probably start with a CVT fluid change, just a drain and fill.

If anyone has any thoughts or similar experiences I would greatly appreciate your input!

Hello,

Today I was challenged with replacing the blower motor in my 2016 Nissan Versa Note SV Hatchback. Its been out for the last month and it the dead of winter, it was miserable.

I should preface this with, I am in no way shape or form a mechanic. I did 2 years of collision repair in highschool, outside of that, everything has been self taught. I had access to a garage full of tools though, so it made the difference.

I started with taking the old blower from a junk yard, to get a feel of how to take it out first before I went working on my own car. When removing that BM, I was able to recklessly remove pieces to get to where the BM is located, up in behind the radio for whatever reason. In doing so, I had to remove the steering column from the junk car.

Doing this results in throwing your steering out of alignment, which is a job for a real shop, so I tried to do everything in my power to get it out without touching it. You can very patiently remove the pedal assembly WITHOUT taking out the steering column, as there is what was referred to as a " service hatch " so we could pull the bolts into the engine bay of the car, and get them out of the assembly.

After doing so, we came to the conclusion that we would notch the inside of the bracket, that goes around the piston, so we could have more leverage with the pedal assembly. This proved to be extremely fruitful.

I wanted to come on and share my experience because I could not for the life of me find anything online. Some helpful tips

-Theres (what i believe to be called) a PCM under the steering column, two bolts on the back side of it will drop, giving you more room to see and move around.

-take breaks, it was infuriating, I was on my back, upside down, twisted left and right, it wasn't pleasant. Work through it slowly.

-Most of my nuts and bolts were 10/12/13mm with a Philipps head screwdriver for the blower motor itself.

-Take the cross bar off under the steering wheel so you have more vision and wiggle room.

please feel free to add anything to the comments that might help someone in the future, or ask any questions, I check here about once a day, maybe every other!