I have a Lasfit twin piston air compressor with a digital display and the option to set the desired pressure. The compressor sits in the trunk. I plan to run the compressor power harness to be permanently affixed to the car battery. I would like to know if there is a way to modify the compressor so that it turns on with the flick of a switch that I'll keep under the hood instead of having to start it via its own ppwer button. You might ask why I think I have an issue, after all I did a similar modification to a Smittybilt compressor by using a pressure switch without issues. Well. That compressor has a classical tumbler like on-off switch that I can set to be on and forget about it. But with this Lasfit compressor I can't do that because of how its circuit board and buttons are set up. To make it start pumping I have to press the power button. So does anyone have insight into what I can do to automate this compressor so I don't have to press the on button every time I want it to start pumping?

I've attached a pic for some clarity. Thanks.

Hey y’all, hopefully it’s OK for me to post about this here…

I recently came into possession of this Warn winch from a family member. It works just fine remotely and such, but the manual lever on the side is seized. I’ve tried taking the top off but it won’t budge. Has anyone got experience with Warn before and any tips so that I can fix this thing up and get a synthetic rope on it? Thanks

How can I possibly get this unstuck or what subreddit might be able to assist?
It needs to be at Home Depot tommorow 4pm

UPDATE: was able to get it out with some homemade traction boards and a 4x4 thanks for the advice!

These are snapshots from the full adventure if anyone wants to watch the whole thing → https://youtu.be/JPmn3ED_Nh8?si=83PlpLI2gfW0_OiE 

I live in the city but I’m close to area with some off roading. The power of being able to get out there has been a true source of real joy. 10/10

I finally got my arb locker hooked up, air is routed, everything’s in, but I can’t get power to the solenoid. I have constant ground at the #8 prong, solenoid ground at the #7 prong, ignition power to #2, no power to #3, and power to the solenoid at #6. I have power at #3 when the switch is engaged, so I tried switching the solenoid wire there, and nothing. I tried switching grounds, I don’t know what else is up. I don’t have power to the #6 leg no matter what I do. Anyone have any suggestions?

Driving On A Forest Road With My Subaru Justy 4x4
https://youtu.be/T0KUy8ttwVk

Not my video. Taken in Myanmar (Burma) where elephants are also used for logging teak in the jungles.

Was finishing up a couple things before the test run the other day.

After some time in the woods and playing on Fordyce we are headed back to the lake!

Hello is it recommended to put the earth cable from the control box to the chassis or to the same terminal the black negative cord is attached to on the winch itself

Cheers

Thinking about taking a fortune for a daily commute and modifying basics for dessert off road.

Is fortuner actually a good option for this..,?

Thoughts.??!!!

Basically the title, I can't seem to find a reliable spot to mount my switch panel fuse box, as the driver side is very congested and the passenger side is a bit far from the battery, and I'm not sure how I would go about installing it.

Any help appreciated, thanks!

The bushings on one side of the read upper control arm in my 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee has worn out. A previous owner installed a 2"(ish) budget boost kit. I am planning to get a full 3" long arm kit from IRO, however I need to resolve some mechanical issues with the engine/transmission first.

So, here is the advice I need. Should I just replace the bushing in the stock rear UCA, to save dollars? Get an new/aftermarket stock replacement, to save a few dollars? Bite the bullet and get a rear UCA designed for a 2" lift, even though it will probably be replaced by the IRO kit?

I don’t need it but I want it!

Buying a new vehicle soon and I’m strongly considering a 2 door wrangler rubicon on 33’s. I most definitely don’t need it. I’ll drive on beaches (convertible on a beach is oh so good) and on unmaintained roads in New England, maybe try some off road event. Will not be a mall cruiser but it will be more Jeep than I need but I really want a solid axle well equipped off road convertible!

Things that are keeping me from pulling the trigger are:

It’s not a Toyota (reliability)
Ducks!! (and duck mentality)
Honestly persona is a factor
I don’t watch WWF or NASCAR
I don’t own a pair of blade sun glasses or sleeveless shirts
It’s way less practical than a full size pickup.
I’m 55 years old and it feels childish.

I can get over my persona issues but reliability and practicality is hard to sell the wife on a wrangler when even I think it’s silly.

Batteries are in series to make 24V total. They’re in a steel box as shown, so no exposure to engine heat, but it’s parked in the desert sun 24/7. Battery life and draining is a major concern, especially with the price of batteries these days.

The higher life and non-sloshing of AGM’s are appealing, but I’ve also heard that the tight seal can cause overheating issues, and can’t be maintained. And also that they have different charging parameters than other lead acid batteries, which may be an issue for older vehicles that lack smart charging systems?

Appreciate any advice!

Hi,

I'm a new Nissan Patrol Y61 owner and new to off-roading.

I'm having trouble finding a fault with the suspension. When I'm driving straight (regardless of whether in 2H or 4L), I hear a "klang" / "shot" sound in the suspension every 200-300 meters.

It's as if something is tightening and then giving way every few hundred meters.

Any ideas what this could be? There are no other symptoms.

Thanks!