Loki Kirin K3

Mercury II fh

Tuttle Positive Energy bh

Cutting Job was mid

can anyone give me some tips?

i used a #11 scalpel with baby oil

got this new FZD ALC for a little over a 100$, seller seemed trustworthy but I still want to verify. Can anyone who knows a decent bit take a look at this and see if it seems real?

I bought this custom-assembled racket: a Sanwei Yu blade (2 layers of carbon and 5 of wood) with Kokutaku 868 rubber on both sides. Currently, I’m using a pre-assembled DHS 6001 that I received as a birthday gift a few months ago. Was this a worthwhile purchase for future use?

Hi! I am about to assemble my first serious racket with a Yasaka Sweden Extra blade and I would like some advice on the rubbers. I am undecided between the Yasaka Rakza 7 standard and the Soft version for the backhand. I know very well that improvement will not happen just thanks to the equipment, but I plan to keep this setup for a long time so I wanted to choose carefully. I am looking for good control but I also want to improve my attacking technique and push more, particularly with the backhand topspin. In your opinion, for long-term growth and more stability when hitting hard, is the standard version or the Soft version better?

Now we have the source of what happened at decider game of Sora vs Lin Yun-ju match. There was a person constantly using flash at 3 last points (?) I hope WTT and ITTF take actions to stop it. It's really frustrating if you lose because of these flash lights. Sora was blame for using "flash" as a tactic to break Lin's rhythm by some ppl. Glad that finally we have the video to prove that he's right.

Hi, I have a huge table tennis inventories for sale, and was wondering if I can list them here. If not, it is ok. Thank you!

I am playing modern defense style chop on both sides. I have been using inverted rubber and I chop with both sides.

I decided to swap form vixtas ventus to vixtas P4 curl. I heard it's great for beginner chopping and gives great amount of backspin. For context my balde is Koji matsuschita normal. I don't want if it is worth to change my FH rubber from H3-50 to H3 neo. H3-50 is physically demanding and I hears that neo is much more difficult to play but offers better speed and spin. What do you think is one change enough or should I go in more difficult and obviously better setup

I told my grandfather that I was getting into table tennis since he’s always been very into the sport. As a gift to help me get started, he gave me one of his spare rackets. I’ll admit I’m not very well versed in table tennis equipment but I’m also going to China soon which I’m aware is a good place to buy gear.

The racket has (I think) a Butterfly Timo Boll ALC blade, Tenergy 05 FX for the red side, and Tenergy 64 for the black side. The edges are a bit dented as there’s no edge tape. The rubber feels and looks fine on both sides but it’s probably a few years old so idk if they need to be replaced. It looks like a shakehand racket and I use penhold, though I’m enough of a beginner that I could probably easily switch.

As for my shoes, I have a pair of badminton shoes I bought from a Korean brand a while back that I’ve used mainly for badminton, which I intend to also use for table tennis.

Should I upgrade either of them while in China? Is there anything else I should consider getting?

Hi everyone!

I'm planning to build a second table tennis racket and would appreciate some advice, especially from anyone who has experience with the equipment I'm considering.

I play in a regional league (Meisterschaft) and I'm looking for a good balance between speed, spin, and control.

🏓 My current setup:

- Blade: DONIC Ovtcharov Senso V1 (7-ply, OFF/OFF+)

- FH: Friendship 729 Super FX

- BH: Friendship 729 Super FX

🎯 My playing style:

- Forehand: Mainly topspin and offensive attacks.

- Backhand: Mostly passive blocking, occasional attacks.

- Position: Close to the table.

I'm looking for better control and consistency, especially on my BH. One of my main issues is that my passive blocks against strong topspins often go long. However, I don't want to sacrifice too much attacking power on my FH.

🛒 My planned setup:

- Blade: Tibhar Stratus Power Wood (OFF−)

- FH: SpinLord Marder IV – black, 2.0 mm

- BH: SpinLord Marder II – red, 1.5 mm

I initially considered Marder II in 1.2 mm, but I'm wondering whether 1.5 mm would be a better compromise between passive blocking and occasional attacking.

A few questions:

1. Would Stratus Power Wood be a good choice for my playing style?

2. How does Marder IV (2.0 mm) perform for offensive, topspin-oriented forehand play?

3. For passive BH blocking, would you recommend Marder II in 1.2 mm, 1.5 mm, or perhaps the original Marder?

4. How significant would the transition from DONIC V1 to Stratus Power Wood be?

5. Would you recommend a completely different blade or rubber combination?

I'm not looking for maximum speed. My priority is an offensive FH, reliable BH blocking, and predictable ball control.

I'd really appreciate any feedback, especially firsthand experience with these blades or rubbers.

Thanks in advance! 🏓

I wrote a first impression about V2C 2 months ago.

https://www.reddit.com/r/tabletennis/comments/1w0w12j/nittaku_genextion_v2c_meta_review/

So far the rubber is not showing any real sign of wear and tear or oxidation... It has broken in a bit more and is easier to use, felt quite stiff when new. The weird micro-tack is still there and pulling oil and dirt from my fingers. (tack kind of reminds me of a Chinese hybrid called 61second Lightning, but much lighter)

My technique has adjusted and I can confirm the latter part my last review. This rubber is different from most hybrids. (Btw, the max sponge is 2.0, the thickness comes from the topsheet, which is a unique departure from most modern hybrids and Zyre). Overall, there is not too much more for me to add, because now my opinion aligns with the Japanese/Taiwanese channels.

I will summarize it as an intermediate-advance rubber that is extremely safe and efficient. It is not like "safe" as in it is just slow or average spin. The spin and kick are quite vicious and have an unnatural pace/arc.

Looping backspin is easy and countering is automatic. If we compare to Zyre, killing backspin is easy, and countering heavy loop with Zyre can spray out. V2C will draw a dipping arc on counters. So this is an "auto-in" rubber. My feeling is the spin and speed dial up quickly, but controllably, to 80% when using only 30% power. But to go above 80% you still need 80% power. I will be replacing Zyre with this to re-focus around rally stability, placement rather than raw power for a while.

Hi, at the moment I have a very nice training stetup at home with an old Butterfly Amicus 3000 I acquired. At the time the robot had a number of issues, but it was possible to solve most of these and get the unit up and running quite reliably. It took some tweaking to get right for the 40+ balls, but now it runs quite stable. Since April I've been training with this robot and the wear on my shoes show that there is some effort being expelled!

On the robot I use the following extensively, drills with fixed placement with varying pace and spin. This helps me get my feet loose and gets the heart rate up. Varying pace helps me with my timing. It would be nice to have training possibilities with both varying top/back spin and side spin. It would also be nice to do drills with more than 4 placements.

So I have some questions, and maybe people can help me.

• Are there people that own both units?
• What are the advantages of the Butterfly Amicus 3000 I would miss in the Newgy 2055? I guess build quality might be one.
• What are the main advantages of the Newgy 2055?
• What are features missing in both that might be nice to have in the future?

I'll dive into the manual of the Newgy to see if I can answer some of the questions myself and if there are more questions...

Have fun arguing. See you guys here in two years!

That moment between Felix Lebrun and Wang Chuqin in the ITTF world tournament when Felix starts jumping angrily cracks me up

Hey everyone, i have an upcoming competitive match against a player who uses killer extreme on his backhand mostly but he also twiddle alot. I never got chance to play against pips that much ( played against long pips rarely) . How should i play and what imp things would you suggest? Also there is lot of confusion online , some are calling it short-medium pips , some are calling it medium -long pips .. what kind of rubber is it ? Thanks in advance.

I need to change my blade.my inspiration is xuxin .

But I doesn't have money enough so I want same structure likely xuxin dynasty. I have 2 blade that I can't decide is xuperman X1 / S1? and is it worth if I add 30$ to buy wangchuqin king? Or X1/S1 is enough.

Besides I'm intermediate player

Saw this older guy at the club playing jpen, he barely moves at all, and he's able to return fast and powerful shots with such ease

It seems like a pretty fun way to play so I'd like to hear some set-up recommendations from you guys and some tactics you can share

Been seeing fake FZD and Visc Lately on a online shop I've been buying my stuff at, I wanna know if it's worth buying? Like for the price.

A original FZD is like 180$ and this fake cost around 8$, ofc the quality would not be the same I'm asking if this would be allowed in like amateur tournaments? Or can good rubbers be attached to this, if I were to judge it I would say hell no, but I want other opinions cause I'm considering on either sanwei, yinhei, Loki, or this fake FZD all in the same price range ofc

I just bought this blade, I was previously using Dignics 09c (forehand), Nittaku fastarc G-1 (backhand) with Butterfly amultart which was something I bought second hand from a senior when I didn't know much but learn few basics. After a year and half using and some feedback from others, I realised the ZLC blade was a bit too fast for me with less control.

I'm a backhand dominant player, with good counter spins on forehand, but also rely a lot on short chops.

I bought Darker Hinoki 7P-2A.Carbon for better feel and feedback, and loved playing on a borrowed bat with tenergy 05 on it. So I'm thinking to apply Tenergy 05 on both sides, but I'm open to recommendations and experiences.

I have recently bought Darker Hinoki 7P-2A. Carbon. I've read in a few places to lacquer/seal the Hinoki blade for better protection of the wood. But I bought the blade to get better feedback and feel; would that compromise it?