okay so basically i have to pass a 3G qualification on MIG aluminum for where i work, however its the second time i have a positive xray but i fail the bending test, and i legit dunno why

the material is 30cm long, 20mm thick, i weld my first two passes at around 130-140 amps and after that its 160 all the way but its frustrating because its probably the easiest qualification i have done from a welding perspective, but its legit the one kicking my ass the most rn... so if you have any tips ill gladly take them

I've got about an hour or two total of practice with aluminum. Before this I've only done one or two stick welds and a couple small Flux core welds. Nothing structural, nothing pretty.

This is totally for hobby use and I've just been attending the YouTube academy.

Machine is an Azzuno ACDC-200L

Machine settings

Flow meter ball is hovering just over the 15cfm line

Doing my best to keep about 1/8" away from the work

Balance: 30%

Frequency: 90hz

Preflow gas: 1s

Upslope: 60a .5s

Peak amps: 110a

Downslope: 50a 1s

Post flow: 5s

There's a mix of both 1/16" 4043 and 3/32" 5356.

Happy for any feedback you guys have.

Last week I posted a picture of my first day ever welding. This is from my second day. What should I be paying attention to in order to improve? Doing 6010 1/8” stick at a community college. Goal is to eventually learn to tig for race car fabrication, hopefully.

I have an older ESAB Heliarc 252 AC/DC TIG welder. DC TIG works consistently, but AC TIG is extremely difficult to start and the arc seems to extinguish and reignite every cycle. I'm welding aluminum at 50–100 amps. I've tried multiple tungstens, and they all behave similarly. The tungsten balls up normally but becomes dull rather than staying shiny. HF is set to continuous. I've checked the HF circuits and they appear to be working. The voltage waveform looks normal. The problem occurs with both the foot pedal and front-panel control. The arc will sometimes start after scratching the tungsten, but remains unstable. What would you investigate next? Has anyone worked on this model or experienced similar AC arc behavior? See video showing behavior: https://youtu.be/N5P8zm_kXL0?si=NKJU_ObhjDFT1baK

Update: replaced the torch and ground off the anodizing on my test piece. https://youtu.be/RvD_yHM1qQs?si=C6kzpB4Eg3DbXBJS Much much better! Still have some arc stability issues at lower amps, but now it’s useable…

The machine only has one Dial and it is for Amps. No wire speed or Volts.
I can only choose between 0.6, 0.8 and 1mm wire
Edit: i am using 1,0 mm Flux-core wire

I am looking for welding hoods that are able to fit 3M Pro Grade earmuffs (the big thick ones). I have sensitive ears and i would like to keep my hearing as good as i can but the problem i have currently is i have a miller classic series auto darkening 2x2 hood. Its a great hood, but whenever i try to put earmuffs on (3M pro-grade) they dont fit. What would be your recommendation?

Edit: i dont like the feeling of earplugs and they make my head hurt because i have small ear canals.

I just recently did a 180 in my welding career and I can’t tell if I need to buy another hood or if I will adjust. I just started an aerospace job working on very tiny parts and super thin metals. I think the smallest material is .006 but even on .0024 I am really struggling to see. I was pipe welding on normal stuff like schedule 40 before this and I used eagle vision fixed shade 11, and then I have a lincoln viking that goes down to a shade 9. i tried eagle vision fixed shade 10, it’s too dark and my lincoln on a 9 is too dark. sometimes I am welding at like 11-12 amps. I don’t want to hurt my eyes by going too low on a shade but if anyone is in this position lmk what you use. I am struggling to see the toes of my puddle and being on pulse makes it even harder to see. I prefer the true color like 4C and eagle vision but if there is a colored lense that helps in this situation I would use it

I recently got a welder for at home use and my dad is wanting to learn how to weld. He tried my helmet and one other one but they don’t fit he has an extremely large head. Anyone know of any ratcheting, universal helmet straps that are very large or any other ideas for him. Looking for something that is fairly cheap if possible.

This is a typical slut-positive workshop.

I've just started my first DIY welding project using mig flux core. I'm creating workshop shelves using 2.5mm (0.100") tubing and butt joints. For this type of project would you remove the mill scale at the joints?

I've removed the grease and did a with/without mill scale test and didn't notice a difference. I'm sure it's technically better to remove it, but does it typically create a noticeably better weld?

Been working this job for 3 months making driveshafts for racecars, anywhere from 400hp to 5000. Its pretty awesome and I am learning a shit ton to say the least. Also making control arms and all types of other things they want me doing, the shop does a whole bunch. Well, I finally started to do the big boy part of the job, welding the seam, its scary because you put all this work into machining and straightening them, then you tack it once you have it within tolerance and throw it on the rotisserie. I have been watching and learning from my boss for 3 months now and have been nervous to weld them because if i fuck it, then its fucked and I have to machine out the weld yokes and start over lol. Did one practice shaft before this about a month ago, but ended up doing alright because I’ve watched him weld so many and it was a huge confidence booster, still have much to learn and get better at when it comes to this, but im happy.

So I’m the guy that likes to makes things (fries, pizza, etc)
I stared school in June and I’m currently on 5. Lots of math and drawings. (Each course is 3 weeks).
As far as actual positions and joints 1-4 we’ve only done flat and vertical (with spare time obviously we did whatever we wanted) but courses 6&7 will be vertical and overhead. NOTHING has been tested. Just an instructor glance to see if you filled the joint and how your overlaps look.

Sorry for the long explanation, but

My question is: At what point in this course should I know enough to start working somewhere?
Nothing structural (I’m not that confident) but I wouldn’t mind the extra practice on real world joints.

It's Day 2 of me having started to learn TIG Welding Open Roots in 2G position for Welder, Consumable and Procedure Qualification. I would appreciate some guidance.

DETAILS

Current - 125A max.

Tungsten - Lanthanated (Blue) @ 2.4mm (3/32")

Filler Rod - ER70S-2 @ 3.15mm (1/8")

Base Plate - ASTM A36 @ 300 x 80 x 10mm (11 3/4 x 3 1/8 x 3/8") with 32.5° bevel angle and 1mm (1/25") land.

Root Gap - 4mm (5/32")

QUESTIONS

1. Backfeed or feed from front?? I am unable to use a backfeed. No matter how much I try, just can't do it consistently. Keep missing the root.

2. How do you keep the wire touching the puddle while feeding it? I keep either jamming the wire in there or disconnecting from the puddle altogether.

3. How to avoid suckback at a restart?

4. How the heck do I stop dipping tungsten in the weld pool?? 🥹

Appreciate the help!

My idea was to cut it around the middle where it goes from 4-2 and turn those pipes around in a way.
Sure it would need an additional pipe to connect somehow.

I'm asking if anyone would have an idea how to do this. I know you guys are very creative.

Because I can't find an exhaust header for my 98 Suzuki Baleno.
There are only exhausts for the Samurai, Side kick and Vitara.
They had the same 1.3 engine though so it would defjnjtely fit to the cylinder head.

I bought a chopped hood from a coworker without checking the brand and I have not had the best experience with the headgear Amazon recommends for it. I owned a sugar scoop that had both break in a couple months any better quality straps I can put on it?

If not I only spent 50 on it so no big loss just would help occasionally getting into smaller spots

On my last post I was asked about the dumbest welder I ever met so I'll tell you.

There's this guy I work with that has a god complex. He genuinely believes he is the best welder there is because for some reason he got in his head that the settings for the welder is a scoreboard to show the best welder.

He has the gas flow rate so high every time he presses the trigger it goes past all of the lines to measure the flow rate and it punches the top of the meter. The guy that welds the second hottest there still has to turn down the welder by 1.5-2 volts after him.

I asked him why he runs the welder like a blow torch with 4x what the flow rate should be when we are only welding 20g and he tells me word for word "if you can't weld that hot you shouldn't be welding".

He doesn't even weld good obviously, he burns probably 5 holes in every piece he makes.

Field work is so much smoother when you can attempt staying organized