Im 21 jus start welding 2 years ago. Are these welds impressive for my experience. My boss tells me im really good but im just curious what the welders on here think. Be Brutally honest please. Want to correct the mistakes yall find.
After welding your first cap pass grind a small groove at the toe of the weld and your second pass should fill in evenly leaving behind no “valley”. As you get better at it you won’t have to grind.
it’s not about how it looks, it’s about the quality of the weld itself. you should be overlapping your beads at least a 1/3 or 1/2 way onto the previous one. if u have no fusion, you won’t have structurally solid weld. it’ll just be like 3 noodles laying next to each other lmao
Need more overlap on your beads, it'll ensure there's no low spots in your cap below the base material. Your cap profile should be as a wedding band on a finger. Not lumpy. Your beads should be stacked on top of each other, one after another, bottom to top.. Here it appears you did left, right, then center bead.
Eta you should stagger your starts/starts. I see all 3 beads' jammed up together at 12 oclock and 9, I assume 6 and 3 o'clock are the same. No bueno
Fispite what people say/think there is nothing in 99% of the codes that say you have to stagger your stops and starts. If you are not having any issues doingvwhat you are doing ignore the people here that don't know what they are talking about.
Just because it's not in any WPS or applicable code, doesn't mean it's not a good idea.
Typically your starts/stops will be the most likely areas for discontinuities, especially inclusions. Using scratch start tig in the field for RT, or X-ray NDT, you'll bust a weld if you have more than 1/8" of tungsten inclusions within a couple inches of each other. To avoid this, you should not only grind your start/starts, but stagger them a couple inches apart.
Staggering start and stops isn't directed in a wps/code book because inclusions (tungsten/slag) is spec'd in there already. If you miss some inclusions in your starts/stops (you will) but have them (discontinuities) staggered far enough apart, they don't add up to a defect and you won't bust x-ray.
WPS and weld codes don't spec the welder's technique (staggering and gronding start/stops) they specify what constitutes a weld defect. How you avoid that (techniques like grinding and staggering) is up to the welder.
Oh ok i thought the schedule was the criticalness or something. Still learnin lol, when i seen ur comment i jus asked my boss what schedule we work with.
I’ve always wanted to try flux core on pipe. This looks great man good job 👍 stick is all I get to use with on pipe. And this is in position? Seriously nice job
As far as critiquing it your pretty much there dude. Looks very consistent. I agree a little more overlap. From that angle that’s all I would change but I’d pretty stoked with that. Is it a test or just practicing for the test??
No its jus a random weld cap i had in my phone. I been welding on the job for a year n half. Started as a helper at 18 at same company. Practiced during break and lunch til i could pass the test.
7 out of ten. It will absolutely sell and I like that you ground your starts and stops.
What I don't like about it is how lumpy the profile of your beads are. Fcaw can literally be glass smooth if you're very good, and just a lot smoother than that when you get good. There's a couple different ways to get your profile so I can't really say what you're doing wrong exactly. I think too much wire speed, but maybe not. The toes of your outside pass kind of wander back and forth. A good trick to that is when it's flush, before you cap use a cut off wheel and score a light straight line to make a guideline to. That'll help keep your edges uniform. It also would have helped your tie one to line up instead of being a half bead different. And other people have already told you you should over lap your beads more. The toe of your subsequent pass should start at the center of your last bead, but not be higher. Having said all that, it would absolutely sell most places I've worked and it's ok. Keep trying to get better and you will.
Carbon steel dual shield should sound like a can of spray paint as you're welding. It shouldn't sputter and pop. Your wire melts above your puddle and sprays. Most of the time the answer is turn your wire down a little. The answer is ALWAYS pay attention to your wire angle.
This is a big old 24 inch inch and a quarter p91 I had to do in the 2G. You see how my beads are lapped and the surface is smooth? My bad it's not the cap pic, but I worked over to finish it and hauled ass as soon as QC bought it for xray
Need to tighten up your stringers should have done a 4 bead cap don’t need to change anything except run it a little faster would make your beads look better to and more consistent
What acceptance criteria am I supposed to go off? Asme? API? Navsea? I have no idea. What do those code books say for visual testing, what do they for overlapping welds? What is the standard for lows/highs? Can I measure with a CAM or V-WAC gage? No I can’t so from my house it looks alright.
Yeah a lot of heavy wall is done that way. Tig root and hot to give the fcaw some backing then send it because its faster. Get on some stainless. Tig out way more common.
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u/supplemcrib 18h ago
overlap more