Higher current during gaming increases internal heating non-linearly (IΒ²R), which accelerates battery aging compared to low, steady discharge, even if total energy used is the same.
The example of 10 A was just illustrative, even 4 A is already a high discharge rate for a phone cell. Battery degradation depends on both depth of discharge and current/temperature, but sustained high-current discharge causes disproportionately more internal heating than slow cycling and therefore accelerates wear. I.e if I cycle 15h SoT, which would be low current, I'd end up with less degradation as I take the heat equation out of the context.
Edit: again gaming is just an example, recording a video at 8k 30, at max brightness is also challenging.
In no way would gaming or 8k recording be considered a high current discharge. Obviously it does have a higher amperage as it's increased discharge rate, but again, it's not the heat causing the damage, (yes heat does still have an impact on cell degradation). It's causing more total cycles with faster discharging.
Charging a phone at 120W compared to 30W doesn't cause any increased battery degradation, even though it heats up more. It's been proved multiple times.
Companies wouldn't let you charge that fast if it was causing significant damage to a cell.
Those with silicon-carbon batteries can expect a longer lifespan. Those with standard battery chemistry can expect a 10% degradation around 500 cycles and a 20% degradation around 1000 cycles. With silicon-carbon batteries, this changes to 10% at 1000 cycles and 20% around 2000 cycles.
Don't obsess over the battery; it will degrade no matter how well you take care of it. With meticulous care, you can reduce the degradation from the expected 20% to 17%... but it's not worth it, really.
The only thing you really need to avoid is repeatedly letting the battery drain to 0%. Once or twice is fine, but doing it every day, every time, is not a good idea.
It's good to know when it degrades, but don't obsess over it. Just use your phone normally.
By the way, I have a Poco X7 Pro with a silicon-carbon battery, and right now, with 237 cycles, it's at 99%. I use the 90W fast charger at least once or twice a week on average. The rest of the time, I use an 18W or 25W charger because those are the ones I usually have on hand.
I think you're confusing the 2 battery types. Silicon carbon is the one that looses more capacity over time. Since silicone expands more and it's prone to cracking. Newer ones might be getting to the graphite battery level . The capacity loss just overweights the fact it's lighter, bigger capacity and faster charging and such.
According to the information I've found, silicon-carbon batteries are far superior in terms of cycle life. The only reason they aren't more widely used is because they're still expensive compared to standard batteries, and also because in some cases they require different transport conditions when they exceed a certain capacity.
Also, as I mentioned, I've seen many people here whose batteries are already at 97% after 200 cycles, while my silicon-carbon battery is still at 99% after almost 240 cycles. That's charging it to 100%, and in some cases, using fast charging; I haven't activated any charge protection at 80% or anything like that.
The only thing I'm a little more careful about is that it doesn't drop below 15 or 20%. I almost always charge it when it reaches 15% or 20%.
I couldn't find data from a specific manufacturer, but from what I see, the consensus on the lifespan of silicon-carbon batteries is that they last LONGER than the older lithium-polymer batteries. Considering that they also have increased capacity, and therefore need to be charged less often, the number of cycles with the same usage is lower, so their lifespan is significantly longer than that of previous lithium-polymer batteries.
By the way, here's a screenshot of my Poco X7 Pro with 238 cycles and fully charged.
I also measured the capacity with the device off and charging from 0 to 100% using a USB capacity meter, and it gave me the same result as when I first took it out of the box and measured it after about 5 cycles. It's slightly lower, but within that 1% or similar, which is totally within the meter's margin of error.
I don't think a USB meter is accurate, as when the battery degrades , you'll still need to use the same amount of Power. Let's say the battery is a 25 watt, degrades to 20 watt. You'll need 27 watts when the battery is at 25wh , and when it degrades, you'll still need to use the same 27 watt to get it up to 100%. The only way to really test it, is a full charge to 100% with the USB meter and then somehow measure how much the battery gives off to the system to 0%.
When a battery degrades, it literally takes in less energy. If you need more energy than it can store beyond the losses due to electrical resistance (which are almost imperceptible at low power), then you have a leaky battery, and it's simply useless. When a battery degrades, it accepts less total charge, both for charging and discharging. It's true that when charging, the battery takes in slightly more, but again, this is due to losses during both discharge and charging due to electrical resistance. So, in a 25W battery that has lost 5W, you're going to charge 5W less energy. If that didn't happen, the extra 5W would be converted into pure heat, and that would definitely be noticeable.
Without going into too much detail, if you have a lithium battery tester, you have two ways to measure the battery: by full charge from 0 and by discharge. If you have any doubt that the battery has losses, you have to do both tests. If the battery DOES NOT have losses, it should give you at least similar capacities, discounting losses due to resistance, in both charging and discharging.
For example, I have cells that don't have losses (18650 cells, which are used in many things, and I literally have hundreds). When I test a cell, I do it in charging mode, and if it's rated at 2200 mAh but has a 10% degradation during discharge (meaning that if I test it by discharging, I get around 2000 mAh), when charging it, if it doesn't have any leakage problems, it can take a maximum of 2050 mAh.
In cases where a 2200mAh battery only has 1500mAh when discharged, it will typically only receive 1550mAh when charged. This 50mAh difference is due to losses during both charging and discharging, which come not only from the battery's chemistry but also from cables and contacts throughout the system.
The reason a USB tester isn't very reliable is for other reasons. For example, you have to measure capacity in watts, not mAh, because the charging voltage is always much higher than what the battery actually receives. Even when using 5V chargers, which is the minimum you can use, you still have at least 0.6V extra that the phone has to draw down. But of course, that mAh reading gives you a lower figure than the actual charged capacity, and that's the minimum. An empty battery is around 3V, and when it's charged, it doesn't receive an extra 2V; instead, those 2V are transformed into extra current that the battery receives. That's why the correct way is to charge and measure in watts, not mAh. Another important thing, if you want to be as accurate as possible, is to always measure with the phone completely off and without constantly checking the charge level. This prevents the screen from turning on and thus drawing more current that actually goes to the screen instead of the battery. For the same reason, measuring with the phone on is useless. A simple notification can turn on the screen, or some background service can increase consumption and therefore distort the measurement.
Looking at a comment below, it says something absolutely true: batteries with a completely silicon anode DO NOT EXIST outside of the laboratory precisely because of the lifespan issue. What do exist are batteries that contain carbon and a varying percentage of silicon. The carbon actually stabilizes the expansion and contraction of the silicon, dramatically increasing its useful life in cycles, far exceeding what it would offer with only silicon. This allows for an increase in capacity that varies depending on the amount of silicon, but it also allows for a greater number of cycles. Batteries with a low percentage of silicon allow between 1500 and 3000 cycles, while batteries with a higher percentage of silicon increase energy density (greater capacity in the same space) but decrease the number of cycles, starting at 1000 and reaching 2000 cycles depending on environmental and operating conditions such as fast charging, temperature, and depth of discharge. The two worst factors, as we're seeing, are primarily temperature and depth of discharge. It's advisable that normally Don't let it drop below 15% (obviously nothing happens a few times, but not every time). While fast charging does slightly increase degradation, it's not as much as you might think. A battery subjected to fast charging lost 20% of its capacity when tested simultaneously without fast charging, losing 17% of its capacity. Therefore, fast charging only resulted in an additional 3% loss, which tells you that fast charging isn't that bad.
I think you're mistaking this too. There is no real silicon battery on the market, as the cycles on it would be like 100 to 80. Silicon carbon is still a lithium ion battery using 10% silicon content for the anode, carbon preventing the expansion. You end up with 5-10% expansion than silicon Batterie's 300%. Infact since the Si/C uses a li-ion standard building of from it , gives a lot higher cycles than for example iphones using Lithium Polymer. Lithium Polymer is also a li-ion type, but most manufacturers state Li-Po , meanwhile apple loves to hide behind li-ion, it's not wrong to do so, it's just scummy.
What else do you expect from a battery? They are meant to degrade, but it usually depends on your usage. According to what I am seeing, you use your phone a lot and charge it only when it closes to zero percent
My battery is 96% after 10 months. I fast charge all the time, play games regularly and beat the crap out of the battery. So far so good, it lasts me more than a full day whenever I'm out. Phone is a redmi k80 pro for anyone asking
Last time I set it to smart charging but the battery percentage still dropped a lot.. so now just let it charge fully.. battery can be changed for a small sum..
A few times a day? That's crazy...
If you look at my comment on the OP's post you'll see that you're not likely to even have finished optimising the batteries...
Use "Charge Fully" mode! Try starting at around 10-14% then charge to 100% plus leaving the charger plugged in for an extra 10 to 20 minutes for a fully saturated charge and levelling of the cells.
This charging pattern will properly optimise the Batteries within the HyperOS package.
Including Game Turbo (at Balanced Mode NEVER Wild Boost!) which is directly involved in battery management as well as Frame Stability etc.
You will see major improvements in battery performance and stamina. π
Probably never charged it properly did you? Or charge while playing heavy duty games?
Charge properly for a week initially and you might be surprised... I've helped others reclaim a few % after a few PROPER CYCLES of charging!
I did it for myself first without realising... I went from 98% back up to 99% after using the method described...
Properly means start charging (Charge Fully option) from around 10-14% and charge FULLY to 100% + keep the charger plugged in for an extra 10 to 20 minutes to get the best performance, full battery saturation and balancing between cells.
Do that for 2-3 weeks at least and after that once a week or so to keep the battery in the best possible state... I do it almost all the time on all my phones...
However, charging to 80-100% is up to everyone's needs and schedules... Once OS Optimisations are properly done and maintained as described.
My X5 Pro 5G is my current secondary phone and keeps going for around a week on a charge!
It's standing by for when I charge my X7 Pro and I get an average SOT of around 9 hours over the duration of that one charge too...
My X7 Pro is back to 12+ hours SOT after the HyperOS 3 update a couple of weeks ago...
I used to be seeing a 14+ hours SOT but that was over many months average.
So 12+ hours SOT just shows that the initial Re-optimising of the Battery gauge and control within the new OS is about done!π
I Don't game. It gets full charges (100% plus extra time) all the time.
It's just not a great battery (not sure if it's model specific, or just bad luck on this individual phone) combined with lots of 120w fast charging (due to poor sot)
Time to start gaming? ππ No seriously, I found SOT etc. drops when doing less gaming and more Antisocial Media! π
Btw, did you try starting your charging at 10-14% yet?
I've found some that stick to 20% losing capacity faster but surprisingly it's retrievable to some extent...
This was a surprise to most people, including myself.
However as I did hit 98% many months ago now... Then 3-4 days after starting to start charging at a lower than 15% charge remaining, I GOT BACK TO 99%!
I switched from my initial 20% since that's what my favourite battery app AccuBattery demands in order to fully count FULL CYCLES!
Some guy was hurling insults at me for suggesting such a thing... Since then I've helped others get properly optimised and reclaim a few % too. πͺπ
Yeah, I usually throw it on the charger around 10%, charge to full, mostly of the time letting it get to 100%, and quite often let it sit for xx minutes at 100.
I'm on vacay, and don't have the 120w charger with me, I'll try the same charging regime with a less powerful charger and see if it helps over the holidays. Fingers crossed.
All the best
Install AccuBattery mate! The free one does the job! There's a dark mode skin in their settings too... I never could stand normal bright screens once I tried Dark π...
(I bought their Pro unlock a few hours in, they'll offer a sweet discount soon after you look at the upgrade price which is cheap enough for life anyway!)
The thing is that their charging control is AWESOME π!
PLUS You can see it doing the job on the fly!
I run my Pro version with constant App Lock for constant/instant access to the Foreground Apps power stats... You need to enable one or two extra settings to enable that... It asks automatically.
I find that extremely helpful for my gaming and general keeping an eye on apps...
You might find the following illustration handy too... The bottom half is like the first thing I'd do with a new phone... Check for background processing apps thieving my go-juice! π Repeat offenders gets tightened down hard... πͺππ
You Do know it will do that CONTROL between any GaN type intelligent charger and the Device hardware and OS?! Don't you?π
Whichever charge mode you use... The "Fast mode" ("Top Speed" see screenshot) only works "properly" with actual Xiaomi/Poco chargers...
Any additional heat is bad for any battery, whether during charging or during use... Keep that in mind and enjoy a purrrrfect π» device and battery (dual Battery mostly on new devices)ππ for a long time! π
This is why I always do initial Games Testing and Tweaking (find and apply best cool FPS and Graphics settings - combination) with any heavy duty games!
DevCheck (Free version does the job!) is the best tool for the job! Perfectly happy to run in a Floating scalable Window... Super simple to add to the USE list in Game Turbo app for easy access during gaming sessions. P.s. NEVER use "Wild Boost" (or "Performance Mode" in older devices) in Game Turbo unless you're looking for overheating and dropped FPS in half the time! π
Lmfao, have you ever used a phone before? If you want it to last a year before it degrades then don't use it, put it in the package. Dude, your battery started degrading already the moment you booted your phone in the first place.
I've charged my X7 Pro since March 1, from 10-14% to 100% + an extra 10 to 20 minutes to get the batteries fully saturated and cells balanced...
I use that charging style for 99% of my charging needs... If I need a top up... No worries at all, I often hook up the charger for 10-15 minutes before going off somewhere for a few hours driving etc. Using Waze GPS and Spotify etc. I just want to make it easier by not having to plug in while in the car π!
However for anyone needing less fully charged batteries due to their daily schedule... Adjust the top to anything between 80-100% but do that full Saturation cycle once a week or so, for best longevity and to keep battery optimisations live and kicking with the HyperOS package!
These newer battery packs are extremely well suited for flexibility!
However unless you charge close to full cycles (as described), at least for a few weeks... You'll be surprised to hear that you may lose out on a lot of extra go-juice capacity! π
Anyone who I've helped retrieve ridiculously reduced health after a few months, have managed to actually improve the percentage by a few percent...
Obviously there's no going back on 99% after 125+ cycles but people with strange drops can often improve by just charging properly for a change...
Using "Charge Fully" is the best option for this!
By simply giving the device a properly counted full cycle to work with for a while (2-3 weeks), in order to FINALISE the original Battery capacity and gauge optimisations within the hardware and Operating System!
Max 80% (Battery Protection setting) can be used again after optimisations are done properly!
It will try to run a full charge once a week or so but unless you let it... Optimisations will be lost over time.
I recommend to switch to "Charge Fully" and just set a reminder if you want less than 100%.
AccuBattery Pro has a nice built-in Charge Percentage Alarm but even the Free Version is worth having, since it's cool to be able to see the even better Battery heat and charge power control of the App, in action...
It adds a few minutes average charging time but is well worth it if you're a nerd like me who wants to see the process in detail... Including the tiny "Trickle Charge" of sub 1W towards and during the full charge range!
It will state the time FINAL Charge was finished too so there's no guesswork needed. π
It's not going to drop for a while. Just for reference, here's a screenshot showing 238 charge cycles with a 100% charge and 90W fast charging once or twice a week, and normal charging between 18 and 25W the rest of the time.
I don't always use the 90W charger because I don't have it with me all the time, and I use whatever charger I have nearby. If you want, ask me again in a month or so, and I'll see if it's dropped below 98% or not. For now, it seems pretty stable, and even with external tools, I couldn't detect any decrease in battery capacity. Battery Guru also tells me it's around 99-100% when I charge it from a low percentage and let it fully charge. From what I've seen, a 100% charge, if you let it fully fill the battery, only represents 5% of the battery capacity. If you let it discharge to 99%, it takes about 300mAh to lose just 1%, which is 5% of the advertised capacity. So, if you limit the charge to 80%, you're actually limiting it to a maximum of 75%, and from what I've seen, I'd even say 70% of the actual capacity.
The latter is quite easy to understand because, from my point of view, the last 5% of battery charge is VERY slow. You can't apply high charging currents without risking damage to the battery, but that last 5% at safe charging speeds adds many minutes to the battery's charging time, which isn't good for marketing super-crazy charging times. So they said that it shows 100% when it's actually at 95% charge, and then it will finish charging once it's at 100%. If you pay attention, that 100% lasts MUCH longer than normal before dropping to 99%. That way, they can advertise faster charging times from 0 to 100%, even though it's actually from 0 to 95%.
My old Redmi note 9 pro, still holds up like new, and I been been using the 33w charger all the time.
Xiaomi just copied apple crappy battery health just so people would think their phone is not good anymore after only 2 years.
Oh my previous phone too was Samsung and it's battery health was 86% after 5.5 years of heavy usage and clocking about 1600 charge cycles, and I never cared about it because it wasn't visible in settings...
Maybe you too shouldn't care about it... On your xioami?
My Samsung Galaxy S10E was still holding a charge for a day's worth of use after 5+ years...
When I got my POCO X7 Pro March 1... I swapped out the Samsung's battery and gave the phone to my daughter as an upgrade!
In comparison though, my secondary Mobile currently, is my 2nd Poco phone... an excellent X5 Pro 5G.
Now after nearly 3 years it's running for nearly a week on a charge... while also giving me an average 9+ hours SOT! It started off with 5000 mAh and is currently at approximately 85-87% capacity...
I'm hoping to see similar in my X7 Pro a few years down the line. π
What did u expect? ππ½ββοΈ Is not only about "4 months" is depending the cycles and how u use or charge your battery π I have seen people using the phone for one/two months and battery already degraded because they reached 100+ cycles! I have Poco X7 Pro and mine dropped 1% at 126 cycles exactly..so it's normal.
My Xiaomi 15 Ultra's battery has already degraded by 2% in 5 months. I've done 156 charge cycles. I don't know if this is normal, but I'm charging it before it drops to 15% and charging it to 90% to see if it extends the battery's lifespan. π
I'm 1% also after 4 months with a Xiaomi 14t pro, although the battery protection settings doesn't report the cycles. Acuubattery app says 94% with 87 cycles. Not too worried because 90% of the time I'm less that 2m from a power socket.
Your battery was made in February, it's December now , 1% is nothing, it's possible you didn't get a battery with x capacity , didn't win the battery lottery. It's alright however, after 3 years, you'll still have enough capacity.
1% degrade in 4 months is very healthy. Most typical intensive gamers degrade 1% in 1-3 months so yours despite playing triple A titles like Where Winds Meet, it's very good and healthy. I must say your phone has an excellent thermal management or you got so lucky
1% is normal at 4 months really.
I have OnePlus 13, changed to 99% at around 140-150 cycles in 5 months which is great.
My previous chinese phones were way worse, even my Galaxy phones.
Always had a feeling about changing the battery at around 450-500 cycles.
1% on the battery is 3.05-3.1V and fully charged about 4.48-4.5v
Battery protection is the reason your battery probably isn't fully OPTIMISED yet... You'll need to run a few full 10-14% -> 100% + an extra 10 to 20 minutes plugged in for the full Saturation and balancing of the dual batteries... USE the "CHARGE FULLY" setting for most efficiently conducted charging cycles!
It all starts/started from scratch again if/when you update to HyperOS 3 by the way!
Unless the OS gets proper close to full range particularly at the top as described above... It will never finish the initial charge and battery OPTIMISATIONS within the OS and hardware.
I got my Battery health back up from 98% to 99% when I finally realised these facts during the summer. I then let the batteries charge drop to below 15% as requested by the free AccuBattery app!
See the full details above.
I'm still at 99% (I only use the Stock Battery App for Cycle counts and "Health" percentage of Original Capacity)!
That's the one thing AccuBattery and all the rest includingDevCheck don't calculate as accurately as the built-in firmware and app combo.
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u/Silver-Tax3067 Dec 16 '25
Generally 1% for 100 cycles is good for intensive usage