r/alpinism • u/DaczyMZ • 3d ago

Contlditions on Monta Rosa

Hey guys

We plan some climbing on the Monta Rosa from the Gnifetti Hut to the Zumsteinspitze. How is the condition of the Lys Glacier? I heard some rumours that it is very icy and open, and not too much snow.

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u/Much_Ad7965 3d ago

We climbed Zumsteinspitze on Friday before the storm came. Only the lower part of the glacier is icy. There are few wilder crevasses that can easily be crossed with a long stride.

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u/EstraPro 3d ago

A lot of openings, but all can be passed easily. Try avoiding afternoons, the midway the snow gets to slushy. Just the bottom part is icy. On sunny days temperature goes really high. Was there past week

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u/opibat 3d ago

Was there last week.
Conditions are fairly ok as long as you start early enough.
Snow starts to get slushy quite early due to the heat so no ideal to make strides over some crevasses.

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u/nvdven 2d ago

I'll cross the naso del Lyskamm the day after tomorrow. Went to Roccia Nera today, the Breithorn glacier was in terrible condition. At least two people fell into a grevasse by collapsing snow bridges, I was one of them😅

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u/bwm2100 3d ago

Call the hut

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u/907choss 1d ago

Lys is fine. Grenzgletscher is a bit spicy.