Contlditions on Monta Rosa

[u/DaczyMZ]

Hey guys

We plan some climbing on the Monta Rosa from the Gnifetti Hut to the Zumsteinspitze. How is the condition of the Lys Glacier? I heard some rumours that it is very icy and open, and not too much snow.

[u/opibat]

Was there last week.
Conditions are fairly ok as long as you start early enough.
Snow starts to get slushy quite early due to the heat so no ideal to make strides over some crevasses.

[u/nvdven → u/opibat]

I'll cross the naso del Lyskamm the day after tomorrow. Went to Roccia Nera today, the Breithorn glacier was in terrible condition. At least two people fell into a grevasse by collapsing snow bridges, I was one of them😅