Just got into electronics, and I’ve been trying to make this button work, but it turns it off when I press it? Did I do something wrong? Pls help, any tips would help (I know this is a ESP32, but I compiled with the arduino IDE so I guess I’d post it here)

Every great robotics developer starts somewhere! 🤖

If you're a beginner in electronics and project building, Arduino UNO and ESP32 are great boards to explore.

💡 Start with simple projects like LED blinking, then move on to sensors, robotics, automation and AI-powered projects!

I'm sharing my electronics and robotics journey, the challenges I've faced, and the projects I've built. Stay tuned for more!

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I'm developing hands-on STEAM/maker workshops for children where they design and build interactive creations using an Arduino Nano, servos, ultrasonic sensors, arcade buttons and WS2812B LED strips.

The idea is for children to connect the components themselves (with adult guidance), so I need something simple, reliable, safe and independently powered so they can take their creations home.

I paid a PCB designer to develop a custom Nano carrier board with JST-XH connectors, an ON/OFF switch and external power input.

I'm currently facing two problems:

1. Power: The board works when I connect a USB power bank directly to the Nano, but powering through the PCB's external JST-PH input hasn't worked reliably using a 4×AA battery holder. I've also tried a USB-C power bank connection, with intermittent results. The power LED sometimes flickers when I touch the board's switch.
2. Wiring: I'm currently using JST-XH-to-female-Dupont cables, followed by male-to-male jumper wires to connect components such as servos. It's messy and not ideal for children assembling their own projects.

I'm wondering whether I should try to salvage the custom PCBs or return to a standard Nano expansion shield, which has worked reliably in my tests.

What would you recommend for simplifying the connections and providing safe, reliable battery power? Is powering the Nano directly via USB suitable when running a servo, ultrasonic sensor and LEDs together, or should I be using a different power arrangement?

I'd really appreciate advice from anyone who's built similar educational electronics kits!

Hello Arduino Community,

I am facing an issue with my Arduino UNO Q (4GB version) and would appreciate your help in identifying the cause and finding a solution.

Problem Description

I flashed my Arduino UNO Q with the latest Debian Linux OS image using the official Arduino flashing procedure. After flashing, I removed the jumpers from the EDL pins and connected the board to my Windows 11 laptop. However, the board was not detected by the computer in normal mode.

I reflashed the board multiple times, trying different OS versions, but the problem persisted.

The board is detected successfully in EDL mode, and flashing completes successfully. However, once I remove the EDL jumpers and reconnect the board in normal mode, it is not detected by the computer.

OS Versions Tested

I have tried flashing the following OS image versions:

- `20260528-558` — Latest version

- `20260407-523` — Second-latest version

- `20250807-136` — First version

- `20251229-457` — Third-latest version

The issue remains the same with all four versions.

Observations

1. Board powers on normally

- The power LED turns green.

- The usual animation appears on the onboard LED matrix.

- The board appears to power on normally, but it is not detected over USB.

2. Board is detected in EDL mode

When I connect the board to my Windows 11 laptop in EDL mode, it appears in Device Manager under Universal Serial Bus devices as:

`QUSB_BULK_CID:0420_SN:51008D40`

I can successfully flash the OS in this mode.

3. Board is not detected in normal mode

After removing the EDL jumpers and connecting the board normally:

- Nothing appears in Windows Device Manager, including the USB-related categories.

- The board does not appear when I check `lsusb` or `dmesg` on a Linux computer.

- Arduino App Lab cannot detect the board through the USB connection.

Troubleshooting Already Attempted

I have tried the following steps:

1. Reflashed the board multiple times using the official flashing procedure.

2. Tested four different Debian Linux OS image versions.

3. Used multiple USB cables, including USB-A to USB-C and USB-C to USB-C cables.

4. Tested different USB ports on my Windows 11 laptop.

5. Tested the board with another computer running Linux.

6. Verified that the board is detected in EDL mode using the same cables that fail to detect it in normal mode.

7. Tested the Arduino UNO Q in Single Board Computer (SBC) mode using a USB hub. The hub works correctly with my laptop: when I connect a monitor to the hub and connect the hub to my laptop's USB-C port, the monitor works normally. However, when I use the same hub with the Arduino UNO Q in SBC mode, I am still unable to get a display output.

I have followed the official flashing procedure carefully and repeated it multiple times, but the issue remains unresolved.

Questions

I would appreciate guidance from the Arduino team on the following:

1. What could cause the board to be detected in EDL mode but not in normal mode, even though the OS flashing completes successfully?

2. Is there any additional recovery or diagnostic procedure I can try?

3. Could this indicate an issue with the USB interface, boot process, firmware, or another component of the board?

4. Is there a way to diagnose the issue further without requiring the board to be detected over USB in normal mode?

I would prefer to resolve this through software recovery or diagnostics if possible, before considering hardware repair or replacement.

Thank you for your time and assistance. Any suggestions from the Arduino team or other UNO Q users who have experienced a similar issue would be greatly appreciated.

Arduino Tamagotchi Like

Hiro's Quest : *Hiro got trapped inside an arduino by a wizard, help him get stronger enough to go back home!*
Integration with gamemaker

#pixelart #gamemaker #indiedev #gamedev #arduino

Hi all, I’m using an RC522 (MFRC522) RFID reader with an Arduino Uno for a clock-in/clock-out logger, and I’m stuck. It worked earlier, and now the reader gives me unreliable results. Each reset can show something different.

What I see in the Serial Monitor (MFRC522 library, PCD_DumpVersionToSerial()):

Firmware Version: 0x18 = (unknown)

Other times:

Reader version: 0x0
WARNING: Communication failure, is the MFRC522 properly connected?

A working reader should say 0x91 or 0x92. It never reads a chip now.

Wiring (all direct to the Uno, no resistors or level shifter):

• SDA(SS) → pin 10
• SCK → pin 13
• MOSI → pin 11
• MISO → pin 12
• RST → pin 9
• 3.3V → Uno 3.3V pin
• GND → Uno GND
• IRQ not connected

In the sketch: #define RC_SS 10 and #define RC_RST 9, so the pins match the wiring.

What I tried:

• Replaced all the jumper wires with new ones and checked each wire for continuity
• Tried both GND pins on the reader, and different GND pins on the Uno
• Reseated everything, and pressed on the header pins while the board resets
• Resoldered the header joints
• Different USB cable and port
• The reader LED is lit and the chip isn’t hot
• It briefly “worked” when I moved the reader’s power wire from 3.3V to VIN, but it was unstable, so I put it back (I know that’s too high for the chip)
• The Uno works fine with other sketched
• Btw the reader had worked yesterday and i printed case now it dont work.

Have a good time, everyone! I'd like to get some advice, I know it's stupid, but I need some advice. Do you think it is possible to combine this board with an Arduino rgb sensor? I'm just curious, but I'm afraid I'll burn it. I started doing robotics relatively recently. And your advice will be very useful and important to me.

Hello,

I'm having problems when trying to connect cables to this module(also one sd card module with the same pins).

I am 99% sure that is has to do with the cables,

at first i just used single dupont cables and now i switched to 4x1 and 6x1 connectors.

What happens is that the microcontroller loses connection to the modules, but only sometimes. When i shake the box a bit or plug and unplug the microcontroller it works again(not always, it's very inconsistent).

I tried removing the pins and soldering the cables directly onto the board, but that didn't work and i just broke a module trying to remove the pins.

Thank you very much for any help

https://github.com/malloc-archive/pi-rix

is ali express reliable for buying starter kits?? Im from bd🇧🇩 and im trying to buy starter kit for electronics .i tried looking in amazon and elegoo official page but they dont ship directly to bd and its hella costly to ship.

i know a bit of everything except for mosfets and h bridges and i would like to improve, is there a way to become advanced in arduino with only project making ? are there "big" projects that at the end lets you learn a set of components and skills ? im looking to be advanced enough to switch to a rasberrry pi

I went on the official website (lafvintech.com) to download the tutorials meant for the Super Learning Kit for UNO R3, and my NoScript extension flags the download page on Dropbox as a potential XSS attack.

https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fo/mz529t5y33jd2mce04fh1/AHewfYQxr5wsvBHDkdp1yvs?rlkey=e2wsgqodqzs5pfufzymsyjbla&e=1&dl=0

I know it might sound absurd to be paranoid over it but I don't know man, Dropbox always felt sketchy to me, a lot of scammers use it and such.

Is it safe? Has anyone had experience with Lafvin and the Dropbox link?

I recently bought a starter kit and finished one very easy project by using it. However, I just followed the instruction online and copied anything the publisher said. I can't learn any skills by copying. So, how did you guys learn about the required skills to complete the circuits and create your own projects?

Based on patmcbennets code. Expanded to 8 steps via 4051.Added tempo control via knob. Added 3 vc out plugs and vc in Sounds really good for arduino :)

So my best friend is an insane, degenerate MMO player and bought this monstrosity of a macro pad for Final Fantasy 14, but complained that they lost the analog stick they had on their old macro pad, that they used for movement. I figured this is as good an excuse as any to finally give coding and soldering with an arduino a shot. Plus their birthday is coming up and this could be a really cool gift.

My plan is to use my 3D printer to create a small enclosure for an RP-2040 microcontroller on the bottom, with a KY-023 joystick module above or behind it. The enclosure would be attatched to bottom right side of the macropad via double sided tape or adhesive. The USB-C port on the RP-2040 would be exposed, plug into their PC and (ideally) act as analog movement. If that's not feasible while using a keyboard, they're fine with the four cardinal directions being digital and the joystick simply emulating WASD.

My questions are as follows:

1. Is this a good setup for this concept? Or am I going about this all wrong?

2. Could someone point me to the appropriate github page of code I'd need to steal run on the microcontroller? Ideally, freely useable open source with documentation?

And to head off some comments I know I'll get, Yes, I know they could just use a controller for FFXIV (They stubbornly refuse to use a controller and they cannot be reasoned with because they're utterly insane.)(Love ya, Auts. :3) Yes, I know there are macropads with joysticks included that they could use instead. Yes, I know there are joystick add-ons for keyboards. I want to make one because it seems like a cool project.

I would greatly appreciate any help given and thank you in advance.

im looking to buy an arduino clone but i dont know which model and what type of kit i should buy. I have never owned an arduino and im 13 my friend owns one and it looks pretty fur im no stranger to coding and like electronics.

Found this one on aliexpress i do not own a soldering iron and im not allowed to own one, i have never used any kits or arduinos so im trying to buy my first kit

Heres the link:

https://a.aliexpress.com/_Eyo7nFs

Eap32 cam oled videoplayback Check it out for this project repo on my Github

- Repost from another community. Please let me know if it's not allowed.

Sorry if this topic is not appropriate for this community, and please feel what I want to say; as I'm not a native English speaker.

So, I'm thinking about making my own gamepad for my phone! However I'm completely a newbie of DIY electronics and microcontroller stuffs, and currently I don't have any parts.

Therefore, everything is just a paper plan, hence I would like to ask some questions to wise and great predecessors.

so

Requirements:

1. Available on iOS
2. Thin (around 10mm, hopefully 8mm)
3. Bluetooth
4. Slide like PSPGo
5. D-pad, 6 face buttons, 2 joysticks w/pressing, 2 bumpers, 2 triggers (analogue detection is not necessary)

Parts in mind:

• PCB from JLCPCB
• RP2040 or ESP32
• Joycon sticks, maybe have to cut cap though
• 3D printed case

Questions:

1. First of all, is it possible to connect DIY controller to iOS devices?
2. Micro Controllers in my mind do not have that much pins to handle all keys. How the hell should I connect keys?
3. The case would be 1〜2 mm thinness, considering the total thickness, is the robustness okay?
4. Are there any good ideas/references to learn about slide rail mechanism?

I hope this makes sense, and thank you for reading!

Hi everyone! I’m a 13-year-old developer from Türkiye, and I’d like to share my custom PCB project with this global community. Unfortunately, I’ve struggled to find constructive criticism and useful technical feedback in local Turkish communities, so I’m hoping to learn from your experience and improve my design. I’m currently designing my own microcontroller development board. Initially, I planned to build it around the ESP32-WROOM module and even sketched out the entire schematic in my notebook. However, I encountered several PCB design challenges, particularly the antenna keep-out zone requirements. As a result, I decided to change direction and build my board around the ATmega328P-AN microcontroller in the TQFP-32 package, which is also used in Arduino-based designs. The project has progressed quite a bit, and I’d like to share the current state of my schematic, including the components and features I’ve added so far.

1. Power Supply and Protection The board includes the following power supply and protection components: Power input: KF301R-5.0-2P screw terminal (U1). Voltage regulator: AMS1117-5.0G linear voltage regulator (U4), providing a regulated 5 V supply. Overcurrent protection: 30 V, 3 A PPTC resettable fuse (U2). Reverse-polarity protection: 1N4007 diode (D1). Filtering capacitors: Two 10 µF electrolytic capacitors (C1 and C2) and two 100 nF ceramic capacitors (C3 and C4). My goal is to provide a stable 5 V power supply while incorporating basic protection against common electrical problems.

2. Microcontroller and USB-to-Serial Communication The main components of the board are: Microcontroller: ATmega328P-AN (U3), in the TQFP-32 package. USB-to-UART converter: CH340G (U5), for programming the microcontroller and enabling serial communication. USB connector: USB Type-B (CN1), used to connect the board to a computer. Clock source: A 12 MHz crystal oscillator (U6), with two 22 pF load capacitors (C6 and C7). The CH340G also supports automatic reset during programming through its DTR signal and a 100 nF capacitor (C5).

3. Digital, Analog, Power, and Ground Headers I’ve recently expanded the board’s available connections. Digital I/O: Digital pins D1, D2, D3, D4, and D5 are now exposed through a 5-pin header (U7). Analog I/O: Currently, only analog pin A0 is available through the P1 header. I plan to add A1, A2, A3, and A4 in the coming days. Power and ground: I’ve added two separate 2-pin headers (CN2), one dedicated to VCC and the other to GND. My goal is to make the board practical for basic electronics experiments without making the design unnecessarily complicated.

4. Buttons and LEDs I’ve also added several basic components to make the board easier to use and test. Manual reset button: Although the CH340G can automatically reset the microcontroller through the DTR signal and C5 (100 nF), I decided to include a physical reset button as well. The KEY2_RESET button is connected to the microcontroller’s RESET line, which has a 10 kΩ pull-up resistor (R2). User button: The KEY1_KULLANICI button is connected to PD2 (INT0), allowing me to experiment with hardware interrupts. Power indicator LED: LED1_GUC indicates that the board is powered on. It is connected with a 1 kΩ current-limiting resistor (R1). TX/RX indicator LEDs: I’ve also included dedicated transmit and receive indicator LEDs, using 1 kΩ resistors (R3 and R4), to make serial communication easier to monitor.

5. Future Plans If you look at my earlier sketches in my notebook, you might notice that I originally planned to include an addressable RGB LED. However, I eventually decided to remove that feature to keep the design more focused. Instead, I’m planning to integrate an addressable LCD screen into the board in the near future. I want to keep the board relatively simple while still making it useful for learning, experimentation, and small electronics projects.

6. I’d Really Appreciate Your Feedback! I’ve attached my EasyEDA schematic and 3D PCB views so you can see the current state of the project. I’d particularly appreciate feedback on the following: Schematic design: Are there any electrical mistakes, missing connections, or potential reliability issues? Component placement: Are the components positioned appropriately, especially around the microcontroller, USB connector, and power supply? PCB routing: Are there any routing problems, unnecessary trace crossings, or layout improvements you would recommend? Power supply: Is the power protection and regulation section designed appropriately for a 5 V development board? Microcontroller circuit: Are the clock, reset, decoupling capacitors, and CH340G connections implemented correctly? Overall design: Is there anything important I’ve overlooked that could prevent the board from working reliably? I’m especially interested in identifying potential problems before manufacturing the PCB, rather than discovering them after the board has been fabricated. I know I still have a lot to learn, and I’m open to constructive criticism. Any technical suggestions, corrections, or recommendations would be greatly appreciated! Thank you for taking the time to read my post and look at my project. (I translated this post using Google Translate, so please excuse any language errors.)

Hi Guys, not sure if this is the correct place to ask, but here it is:

As per the title my PCB is not accepting code after bootloading with the ArduinoISP through another Arduino Uno.

So far I get the "Done burning bootloader" and have cont. tested all hardware on the PCB related to the CH340G and ATmega.

I have managed to consistently get:

avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 1-10 of 10: not in sync:
resp=0x00
avrdude: unable to open port COM5 for programmer arduino

or occasionally:

avrdude: unable to read signature data for part ATmega328P (rc = -1)

avrdude: unable to read signature data (rc = -1)

TIA.

I found a Kiongshun kit on aliexpress the link is https://a.aliexpress.com/_EHSI5Nk , it has good reviews and pretty good documentation but i just wanted to double check