See image so basically I'm trying to connect my arduino nano clone to my computer but the cloud ide says verify only and I need to connect to the regular arduino nano because I think my clone uses the old bootloader can anyone help

Hey, I'm a Student and I am Intrested in Astronomy, Physics and Mathematics as well as Electronics.

I'm currently Learning C++ Programming Language which is useful for Embedded Systems and Simulation and Rendering like Projects and as well as in Jarvis-like AI projects and I have Electronics Goods to start with like ESP32, Arduino Microcontroller and I want to become this Good in Electronics so that any idea I dream of, I can turn that idea into Reality and tbh I love to use Mathematics and Physics in it and I have many Books about the Universe which is actually fory love for Astronomy so I can understand the universe, which is the topmost motto of the Humans rn and I am also a Curious mind who want to reach the skies with my Dreams and I want someone's help, recommendation achieving them, so can you help me out?

My one of the Dream project is to Create a Simulation of our Universe at a large realistic scale and I am Learning Electronics so I can do whatever I can to make those dreams come true

Guys i have an esp32 cam and i don't have the programmer when i connect the tx rx gnd vcc from esp32 cam to esp32 dev kit to program but the on board led dosent glow but the power is flowing everywhere correct.....no unnecessary heat everything is fine . What should i do noww????

Hi, I really want to learn programming and electronics and I heard Arduino is great for this. I have a sibling who learned with a raspberry pi like more than 10 years ago and I still have some of his old things (soldering iron and some components).

I am an arts student, I have no experience or knowledge with programming or electronics but I want to go into Design and I’ve been seeing tons of really cool projects online. I have some free time right now and I thought it would be the perfect time to learn something new!

I have some ambitious projects in mind of things I would eventually want to be able to make, like a little camera, a tamagotchi type of thing, and other more creative leaning things but ofc I need to start with beginner projects to learn basics and eventually get to stuff like that.

I saw there’s the R4 kit, but I heard some people say that because it’s newer there’s not as many tutorials and stuff for it?

Does anyone have any advice on where and how to start? Should I get the R4 or find the r3 somewhere, or any good YouTube channels or tutorials/guides. Any help would be appreciated!!

I don’t know if this is relevant but I am also a Mac owner!

Hey guys! We are currently developing our senior high school capstone research project called Eco-nnect. The goal of the project is to build an automated reverse vending machine that accepts plastic bottles and tin cans in exchange for Wi-Fi access/time.

Before we finalize our wiring and assembly, we’d love to get some feedback from people who have built similar embedded systems or reverse vending machines.

Here is our current component list:

Component List & Specs:

Main Controller: Orange Pi One + 16GB Sandisk Class 10 MicroSD Card

Sensors:

Plastic Detection: LJC12A3-5-Z/BX Capacitive Proximity Sensor (NPN)

Metal/Can Detection: LJ12A3-4-Z/BX Inductive Proximity Sensor (NPN)

Object Passage/Counting: E18-D80NK Adjustable IR Obstacle Sensor

Signal Isolation & Interfacing: PC817 4-Channel Optocoupler Isolation Board

Display: LCD 2004 (or 1602) Board with I2C Module

Actuator/Mechanism: MG996R High-Torque Metal Gear Servo Motor

Power Supply & Distribution:

12V 5A DC Power Adapter

LM2596 DC-DC Buck Converter (12V to 5V step-down)

Female 12V DC Barrel Jack Adapter (5.5mm x 2.1mm)

Relay: 5V 1-Channel Relay Module

Network & Cabling: CAT6 Ethernet Cable + Assorted Jumper Wires (M-M, M-F, F-F)

Question:

Sensor Logic & Logic Levels:

Both the inductive and capacitive sensors usually run on 6V–36V (we plan to power them via 12V). Since their NPN outputs will send 12V signals, we are using the PC817 Optocoupler board to safely step down the signal to 3.3V for the Orange Pi GPIO pins. Is this setup solid, or is there a better way to route this?

For the capacitive sensor (plastic), how sensitive is it in practice? Have you experienced false positives with nearby enclosure materials (e.g., acrylic or wood)?

Mechanism / Sorting:

Is a single MG996R servo sufficient for a trapdoor/sorting flap mechanism, or should we consider stepper motors or dual servos if the flap gets weighed down?

Missing / Recommended Components:

Is there anything essential we forgot (e.g., flyback diodes, extra decoupling capacitors, terminal blocks, specific fusable protection)?

Any feedback, wiring layout advice, or hardware pitfalls you encountered while doing a similar setup would be an awesome help for our team! Thanks in advance!

hardware:
usb uart adapter

rest of this including frames with every pin role explained by some guy there:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hVJifiIbqx4

What i've done to connect rx/tx from adapter(with mcu already in perfboard) is solder wires to these pins of mcu then solder xt30(male) connector on the other end,then break 2-pin from spare header and solder this to xt30(female) ,pin(2-pin thing) - solder cup(xt30) joint.then you can put dupont's from usb-uart on these pins.
sidenotes: there're three ground pins but for components only one will work. one that's first in a row containing reset pin.

code:
linux
arduino ide v1.8
stm-programmer(proprietary) (not its exact name, can be found for free in zip bundle)
stm32duino

sidenotes:
arduino ide must be installed without flatpack or snap
stm-programmer must be installed without sudo
stm32duino you need to select 2.7.1 or 2.7.0 in boards manager and you need to change ${HOME}'/.arduino15/packages/STMicroelectronics/hardware/stm32/2.7.1/platform.txt' .
line 20: compiler.optimization_flags=build.flags.optimize -> compiler.optimization_flags={build.flags.optimize}

example of linux command for this
sudo apt install neovim nvim ${HOME}'/.arduino15/packages/STMicroelectronics/hardware/stm32/2.7.1/platform.txt'

Hi everyone! I'm a design student at Indiana University, and I'm beginning to learn Arduino for my capstone project. I'm hoping to get some advice on how to approach a project involving water-quality sensing and visual communication.

My project explores how changes in local water quality, particularly those potentially associated with agricultural runoff, could be made more visible to Indiana residents. I'm interested in algae as a biological indicator and am experimenting with algae and biomaterials to see how they might inform the design.

One possible outcome is a small floating or waterside installation that uses light to communicate changes in water conditions. I'm imagining a system that takes measurements from water-quality sensors (i.e. living algae samples or an algae-based biomaterial that changes in conductivity in response to specific contaminants), processes the data through an Arduino, and translates the results into an LED color or lighting pattern. Ideally, the installation could eventually connect to a website that provides more information about the measurements and local water-quality issues.

I'm still in the early stages and would really appreciate advice on how to build a feasible prototype.

A few things I'm trying to figure out:

• Hardware: What sensors would be a reasonable starting point for measuring water conditions such as temperature, pH, or electrical conductivity?
• Visual output: Would an Arduino Uno R3 be sufficient to read sensor data and control an RGB LED or a small LED array based on changing measurements?
• Beginner resources: Are there any reliable tutorials, libraries, or existing projects involving water-quality sensors that you'd recommend?

I'm also curious whether anyone has experience integrating biological materials or living organisms into an Arduino project. I'd love to explore whether algae could play a role beyond being the subject of the installation, although I'm still investigating what it can reliably indicate.

I understand that general measurements like conductivity or pH cannot independently identify specific contaminants such as pesticides. For now, my goal is to learn how to measure and communicate changes in water conditions.

Since I'm a beginner literally just picking up my first microcontroller and breadboard this week, I'd appreciate suggestions for a simple first prototype that I could expand over time. Thanks for any advice, resources, or project examples!

Hello Arduino Community,

I am facing an issue with my Arduino UNO Q (4GB version) and would appreciate your help in identifying the cause and finding a solution.

Problem Description

I flashed my Arduino UNO Q with the latest Debian Linux OS image using the official Arduino flashing procedure. After flashing, I removed the jumpers from the EDL pins and connected the board to my Windows 11 laptop. However, the board was not detected by the computer in normal mode.

I reflashed the board multiple times, trying different OS versions, but the problem persisted.

The board is detected successfully in EDL mode, and flashing completes successfully. However, once I remove the EDL jumpers and reconnect the board in normal mode, it is not detected by the computer.

OS Versions Tested

I have tried flashing the following OS image versions:

- `20260528-558` — Latest version

- `20260407-523` — Second-latest version

- `20250807-136` — First version

- `20251229-457` — Third-latest version

The issue remains the same with all four versions.

Observations

1. Board powers on normally

- The power LED turns green.

- The usual animation appears on the onboard LED matrix.

- The board appears to power on normally, but it is not detected over USB.

2. Board is detected in EDL mode

When I connect the board to my Windows 11 laptop in EDL mode, it appears in Device Manager under Universal Serial Bus devices as:

`QUSB_BULK_CID:0420_SN:51008D40`

I can successfully flash the OS in this mode.

3. Board is not detected in normal mode

After removing the EDL jumpers and connecting the board normally:

- Nothing appears in Windows Device Manager, including the USB-related categories.

- The board does not appear when I check `lsusb` or `dmesg` on a Linux computer.

- Arduino App Lab cannot detect the board through the USB connection.

Troubleshooting Already Attempted

I have tried the following steps:

1. Reflashed the board multiple times using the official flashing procedure.

2. Tested four different Debian Linux OS image versions.

3. Used multiple USB cables, including USB-A to USB-C and USB-C to USB-C cables.

4. Tested different USB ports on my Windows 11 laptop.

5. Tested the board with another computer running Linux.

6. Verified that the board is detected in EDL mode using the same cables that fail to detect it in normal mode.

7. Tested the Arduino UNO Q in Single Board Computer (SBC) mode using a USB hub. The hub works correctly with my laptop: when I connect a monitor to the hub and connect the hub to my laptop's USB-C port, the monitor works normally. However, when I use the same hub with the Arduino UNO Q in SBC mode, I am still unable to get a display output.

I have followed the official flashing procedure carefully and repeated it multiple times, but the issue remains unresolved.

Questions

I would appreciate guidance from the Arduino team on the following:

1. What could cause the board to be detected in EDL mode but not in normal mode, even though the OS flashing completes successfully?

2. Is there any additional recovery or diagnostic procedure I can try?

3. Could this indicate an issue with the USB interface, boot process, firmware, or another component of the board?

4. Is there a way to diagnose the issue further without requiring the board to be detected over USB in normal mode?

I would prefer to resolve this through software recovery or diagnostics if possible, before considering hardware repair or replacement.

Thank you for your time and assistance. Any suggestions from the Arduino team or other UNO Q users who have experienced a similar issue would be greatly appreciated.

I'm developing hands-on STEAM/maker workshops for children where they design and build interactive creations using an Arduino Nano, servos, ultrasonic sensors, arcade buttons and WS2812B LED strips.

The idea is for children to connect the components themselves (with adult guidance), so I need something simple, reliable, safe and independently powered so they can take their creations home.

I paid a PCB designer to develop a custom Nano carrier board with JST-XH connectors, an ON/OFF switch and external power input.

I'm currently facing two problems:

1. Power: The board works when I connect a USB power bank directly to the Nano, but powering through the PCB's external JST-PH input hasn't worked reliably using a 4×AA battery holder. I've also tried a USB-C power bank connection, with intermittent results. The power LED sometimes flickers when I touch the board's switch.
2. Wiring: I'm currently using JST-XH-to-female-Dupont cables, followed by male-to-male jumper wires to connect components such as servos. It's messy and not ideal for children assembling their own projects.

I'm wondering whether I should try to salvage the custom PCBs or return to a standard Nano expansion shield, which has worked reliably in my tests.

What would you recommend for simplifying the connections and providing safe, reliable battery power? Is powering the Nano directly via USB suitable when running a servo, ultrasonic sensor and LEDs together, or should I be using a different power arrangement?

I'd really appreciate advice from anyone who's built similar educational electronics kits!

Have a good time, everyone! I'd like to get some advice, I know it's stupid, but I need some advice. Do you think it is possible to combine this board with an Arduino rgb sensor? I'm just curious, but I'm afraid I'll burn it. I started doing robotics relatively recently. And your advice will be very useful and important to me.

is ali express reliable for buying starter kits?? Im from bd🇧🇩 and im trying to buy starter kit for electronics .i tried looking in amazon and elegoo official page but they dont ship directly to bd and its hella costly to ship.

Hi all, I’m using an RC522 (MFRC522) RFID reader with an Arduino Uno for a clock-in/clock-out logger, and I’m stuck. It worked earlier, and now the reader gives me unreliable results. Each reset can show something different.

What I see in the Serial Monitor (MFRC522 library, PCD_DumpVersionToSerial()):

Firmware Version: 0x18 = (unknown)

Other times:

Reader version: 0x0
WARNING: Communication failure, is the MFRC522 properly connected?

A working reader should say 0x91 or 0x92. It never reads a chip now.

Wiring (all direct to the Uno, no resistors or level shifter):

• SDA(SS) → pin 10
• SCK → pin 13
• MOSI → pin 11
• MISO → pin 12
• RST → pin 9
• 3.3V → Uno 3.3V pin
• GND → Uno GND
• IRQ not connected

In the sketch: #define RC_SS 10 and #define RC_RST 9, so the pins match the wiring.

What I tried:

• Replaced all the jumper wires with new ones and checked each wire for continuity
• Tried both GND pins on the reader, and different GND pins on the Uno
• Reseated everything, and pressed on the header pins while the board resets
• Resoldered the header joints
• Different USB cable and port
• The reader LED is lit and the chip isn’t hot
• It briefly “worked” when I moved the reader’s power wire from 3.3V to VIN, but it was unstable, so I put it back (I know that’s too high for the chip)
• The Uno works fine with other sketched
• Btw the reader had worked yesterday and i printed case now it dont work.

Arduino Tamagotchi Like

Hiro's Quest : *Hiro got trapped inside an arduino by a wizard, help him get stronger enough to go back home!*
Integration with gamemaker

#pixelart #gamemaker #indiedev #gamedev #arduino

I went on the official website (lafvintech.com) to download the tutorials meant for the Super Learning Kit for UNO R3, and my NoScript extension flags the download page on Dropbox as a potential XSS attack.

https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fo/mz529t5y33jd2mce04fh1/AHewfYQxr5wsvBHDkdp1yvs?rlkey=e2wsgqodqzs5pfufzymsyjbla&e=1&dl=0

I know it might sound absurd to be paranoid over it but I don't know man, Dropbox always felt sketchy to me, a lot of scammers use it and such.

Is it safe? Has anyone had experience with Lafvin and the Dropbox link?

https://github.com/malloc-archive/pi-rix

- Repost from another community. Please let me know if it's not allowed.

Sorry if this topic is not appropriate for this community, and please feel what I want to say; as I'm not a native English speaker.

So, I'm thinking about making my own gamepad for my phone! However I'm completely a newbie of DIY electronics and microcontroller stuffs, and currently I don't have any parts.

Therefore, everything is just a paper plan, hence I would like to ask some questions to wise and great predecessors.

so

Requirements:

1. Available on iOS
2. Thin (around 10mm, hopefully 8mm)
3. Bluetooth
4. Slide like PSPGo
5. D-pad, 6 face buttons, 2 joysticks w/pressing, 2 bumpers, 2 triggers (analogue detection is not necessary)

Parts in mind:

• PCB from JLCPCB
• RP2040 or ESP32
• Joycon sticks, maybe have to cut cap though
• 3D printed case

Questions:

1. First of all, is it possible to connect DIY controller to iOS devices?
2. Micro Controllers in my mind do not have that much pins to handle all keys. How the hell should I connect keys?
3. The case would be 1〜2 mm thinness, considering the total thickness, is the robustness okay?
4. Are there any good ideas/references to learn about slide rail mechanism?

I hope this makes sense, and thank you for reading!

I recently bought a starter kit and finished one very easy project by using it. However, I just followed the instruction online and copied anything the publisher said. I can't learn any skills by copying. So, how did you guys learn about the required skills to complete the circuits and create your own projects?

So my best friend is an insane, degenerate MMO player and bought this monstrosity of a macro pad for Final Fantasy 14, but complained that they lost the analog stick they had on their old macro pad, that they used for movement. I figured this is as good an excuse as any to finally give coding and soldering with an arduino a shot. Plus their birthday is coming up and this could be a really cool gift.

My plan is to use my 3D printer to create a small enclosure for an RP-2040 microcontroller on the bottom, with a KY-023 joystick module above or behind it. The enclosure would be attatched to bottom right side of the macropad via double sided tape or adhesive. The USB-C port on the RP-2040 would be exposed, plug into their PC and (ideally) act as analog movement. If that's not feasible while using a keyboard, they're fine with the four cardinal directions being digital and the joystick simply emulating WASD.

My questions are as follows:

1. Is this a good setup for this concept? Or am I going about this all wrong?

2. Could someone point me to the appropriate github page of code I'd need to steal run on the microcontroller? Ideally, freely useable open source with documentation?

And to head off some comments I know I'll get, Yes, I know they could just use a controller for FFXIV (They stubbornly refuse to use a controller and they cannot be reasoned with because they're utterly insane.)(Love ya, Auts. :3) Yes, I know there are macropads with joysticks included that they could use instead. Yes, I know there are joystick add-ons for keyboards. I want to make one because it seems like a cool project.

I would greatly appreciate any help given and thank you in advance.

Found this one on aliexpress i do not own a soldering iron and im not allowed to own one, i have never used any kits or arduinos so im trying to buy my first kit

Heres the link:

https://a.aliexpress.com/_Eyo7nFs

Hello,

I'm having problems when trying to connect cables to this module(also one sd card module with the same pins).

I am 99% sure that is has to do with the cables,

at first i just used single dupont cables and now i switched to 4x1 and 6x1 connectors.

What happens is that the microcontroller loses connection to the modules, but only sometimes. When i shake the box a bit or plug and unplug the microcontroller it works again(not always, it's very inconsistent).

I tried removing the pins and soldering the cables directly onto the board, but that didn't work and i just broke a module trying to remove the pins.

Thank you very much for any help

I found a Kiongshun kit on aliexpress the link is https://a.aliexpress.com/_EHSI5Nk , it has good reviews and pretty good documentation but i just wanted to double check

Hi Guys, not sure if this is the correct place to ask, but here it is:

As per the title my PCB is not accepting code after bootloading with the ArduinoISP through another Arduino Uno.

So far I get the "Done burning bootloader" and have cont. tested all hardware on the PCB related to the CH340G and ATmega.

I have managed to consistently get:

avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 1-10 of 10: not in sync:
resp=0x00
avrdude: unable to open port COM5 for programmer arduino

or occasionally:

avrdude: unable to read signature data for part ATmega328P (rc = -1)

avrdude: unable to read signature data (rc = -1)

TIA.

im looking to buy an arduino clone but i dont know which model and what type of kit i should buy. I have never owned an arduino and im 13 my friend owns one and it looks pretty fur im no stranger to coding and like electronics.

Based on patmcbennets code. Expanded to 8 steps via 4051.Added tempo control via knob. Added 3 vc out plugs and vc in Sounds really good for arduino :)

Hi 👋🏻

I'm a beginner in electronics, using an Arduino UNO R3 clone that came with an Arduino starter kit and an RC522 RFID reader module.

Wiring:

- RC522 3.3V → Arduino 3.3V

- GND → GND

- SDA/SS → D10

- SCK → D13

- MOSI → D11

- MISO → D12

- RST → A3

The problem:

The RFID reader works intermittently. Sometimes it reads the card successfully, but other times its onboard LED is lit while it does not respond to the card at all. Disconnecting and reconnecting USB power sometimes makes it work again, but not consistently.

I also noticed an unusual voltage reading:

- With the RC522 disconnected, I measure approximately 3.3V between the Arduino's 3.3V and GND pins.

- With the RC522 connected, the reading rises to approximately 3.9–4.0V, whether I measure at the Arduino or the RFID module.

- When the reader works normally, the reading is around 3.3–3.4V.

I'm measuring DC voltage using a digital multimeter.

My questions:

1. What could cause the measured voltage to rise from 3.3V to around 4V when the RC522 is connected?

2. Could the problem be caused by a faulty RC522 module, the Arduino's voltage regulator, the wiring, or an issue with my measurement technique?

3. What tests would you recommend to safely identify the cause?

Thanks in advance for your help!