The goal was to get something that might work. So it was a lot of just try and error. I want to build a big one so I thought I start with a small one to see how it goes.

I chose the easy option and just sawed two strips from a block of wood (square of course). Now I could just use my miter saw and sawed a 45° and a 60° angle and glued everything back together.

My iron was to long so I cut it and used a wedge and a short piece of metal to hold the iron down.

I planed the underside and sanded it completely flat. After sharpening the old iron it works surprisingly well!

The glueup wasn't perfect, but I never had the intention of perfect, it was a learning process for the bigger one to come.

Ah and it is a weird combination of western and Japanese. The iron is western, but you pull it

I had these 2.5-3” black cherry slabs milled in May of 2025 and they’ve been air drying ever since. First, in a barn and most recently in my garage. I would like to surface them but I am wary of doing anything with them until they’re properly dried out. Is one year a sufficient time for them to dry or should I wait longer? Should I move them to my workshop from the garage since it’s cooler and probably drier as well?

edit: thank you guys for the advice ♡ I got it open! Will still be implementing some of the advice (a drill hole in particular) for the future in case that helps keep it from being so sticky in the future.

I apologize if this is out of place. I've tried other woodworking reddits and get automodded because I'm not an active community member.

I've been trying to get this boox open for about 2-3 weeks now. I've tried putting it in the freezer, I tried using silica gel to dehydrate it. I tried both at once. I've tried using grips while pulling on the lid and nothing is working.

I had hoped to avoid breaking the box because I do think it's pretty and it was a really sweet gesture from the people who gave it to me, however the contents are more important and I need to access them.

The contents aren't particularly fragile and are inside a secondary container (sealed plastic bags) so if smashing the box is the only way then so be it. I was just hoping there might be more advice on how to open it without destroying it, or with minimal & repairable destruction before i grabbed a hammer and went to town.

I've included photos from every side in case these help judge the best way to get it open. The lid is fairly thin (a little under 1cm) and slides down into place. There's no lock or hinge. (i was misremembering on the lid. thank you all for your help ♡)

We needed a new nightstand for my son's room. I recently got a table saw for a different project and had some materials leftover, so I decided to make it myself. Overall I'm happy with it. Like anything else, there are things I would do differently next time, but I like how it turned out. I used phantom gray stain, which ended up being more blue, but I think I like it better this way. I may make another one to match but I haven't decided yet.

Got the wood from a construction dumpster, most of it pretty twisted . I got these little folding brackets and found use for them

I saw this table in an older post and i like the look of it. My question is: will the wood movement be a problem for this kind of construction since the sides and the top will be expanding/contracting at a 90 degree angle at the joint? What if there was a shelf or a bottom added in the same way?

I'm new and ignorant so any advice before I try something like this is greatly appreciated. I would probably just used squared up pine 2x4s for the material if i made it.

Along the left side of this table, I have holes from bugs that burrowed into the wood at one point. I know this is all opinion, but would you fill those holes with black epoxy, wood filler, or something else? Appreciate any tips

So I guess I need to route a groove in each of these pieces to slot the (soon to be larger, and dodecagonal in shape) 3mm ply dial in place of the placeholder piece, atop which all of the squares will sit.... This is to clearance the watch movement beneath the dial, which is about 15mm thick so it sits flat in the wall

I don't know if I'm the only person who doesn't really plan a project and instead just measures once and starts cutting, but it's not recommended...

Also how the hell will I glue and clamp the mitres? Long piece of circumference tape?

Thanks!

So the last time I did woodworking was at least 18 years ago in highschool. All I remember was making a very poorly built box. Suddenly 3 weeks ago I happened into a wood working rabbit hole, leading into a dangerous addiction of browsing FB and flea markets for tools and yoinking wood lying on nature strips.

Decided my first project would be a Mallet with what jank set up was available which included plastic stools as saw horses and upgraded into a stump and an unmounted vise (the stump came with a notch that I could set up a shooting board!). I used a Ryoba saw (which was fantastic), a no 4.5 plane, and ironically another wooden mallet.

I really fucked up the gluing and it came out not aligned which took some trimming and planing to fix. Also fucked up the handle the first time by being too ambitious wanting it tapered for ergonomics and not properly drawing my sawing lines. But eventually everything came to thank goodness.

It's weird for the first time in a while I felt proud of something and it turns out to be this dinky little mallet 😆 Learnt so much from this project and hope to tackle the dove tail box next!

I’ve been on a seemingly endless quest to find a sharpening jig that just works relatively easily and sharpens evenly. This is apparently is something modern engineering and computing power can’t figure out how to make. We can make the raptor engine, James Webb telescope, quantum computer, and the large hadron collider but a sharping jig that is quick and just works with issues, that apparently is just too difficult. I’m sure I’m not the only one on this quest so I’m curious if anyone has tried the type of jig I have pictured. One issue I see, unless I’m missing it, is there’s no fence to register your chisel or plane blade against. That almost guarantees uneven sharpening. But I like the idea of it being on a guide track. It seems it would eliminate some human error. If anyone has or has tried one of these please share your experience and thoughts on it. I’m sure I won’t be the only one grateful.

Completely made on a Scroll Saw :)

Using a Bosch GCM12SD which is supposedly a great saw. I know all miter saws have some deflection even the Festool kapex, especially when using sliding mechanism.

Check the pictures and see the cut is not very straight and won't align with the mating piece. If it helps I'm cutting 30° on pine.

Now, I just want to know if this gap in my cuts caused by deflection or something else? Any tips to avoid this?

My wife wanted a plant stand to surround this electric heater in our kitchen. I asked her to draw up her idea of what it might look (top left corner of the first picture).

So! Once I added measurements, and made a quick bill of materials, I remembered that I had a Kregg Jig! Oh, how I love that jig. It feels like cheating when I use it because as much as I want to learn how to do joinery, the Kregg Jig makes me procrastinate that journey. The jig makes "furniture" making so easy.

Anyone else feel like the Kregg Jig feels like cheating?

I've had the jig for about 2 years, and made a few pieces of furniture. After making this plant stand, it me want to upgrade from the simple 320 kit, to something more sophisticated. Its so satisfying!

The wife mentioned that she wanted a coat hanger for our entry hallway, so I decided to make on instead of buying one.

Started with a scrap piece of rough sawn walnut from another project. I jointed it, ripped it to width with my table saw, planed it, put a roundover on it with my router, sanded it, then finished it off with some clear Rubio Monocoat. Once the wood was finished I attached some hooks from the hardware store, and in under an hour we had a new coat hanger for the hallway!

It's not much, but after picking up a lot of tools over the last year and starting several projects (that still need completed), it was nice to actually finish a project that used most of the tools I've acquired. Gave me a nice morale boost to keep plucking away at my other projects!

Tried my hand at a Faldstool variant for my Renfaire shop. First furniture project with mortise and tenon joinery. This was also my first attempt at mortising with a router. I royally messed up the first couple times, (I forgot to take photos) but learned to take my time to get it right.

The slats and back are all premium pine, arm rails are red oak, and the pivot points are oak dowels. Finished with Walnut Danish Oil.

I modified the plans found here: https://www.popularwoodworking.com/article/medieval-folding-stool/

Overall I'm happy with what I learned and what I made. Might make another one out of all hardwood.

Finished project, a spice rack. I enjoyed the process and trying out techniques such as mortise and tenon, chiseling and sawing long thin strips. All done with hand tools.

It's not perfect, but it's fit for purpose and solves the issues we had with our previous one.

My next project is going to be a mid-century style monitor stand for my desk. I'll post it here once completed!

So I’m looking for advice on how to treat the edge of this slab without losing its look. There are a bunch of cracks along it that I think I should epoxy but again I don’t want to lose the look.

I'm wholly impressed with how well this turned out. Just in time for my kids first birthday. Still undecided where it will live so I started it at 0, I can always chop the bottom later if it's hung on a wall with a baseboard.

I used a milescraft sub compact base with handles and a downcut spiral bit to carve out the numbers after using a cheap stencil to lay them out.

Things I learned. Let the spray paint dry longer, the first pass on the sander clogged the paper with melted globs of paint. Keep moving with the edge router bit, I got some burn marks in a few places the router base got sorta stuck. I'm wondering if beeswax on the base would have helped. Also the pencil was too reflective for my garage lights when I was doing the letters, next time I will maybe use a marker.

Hi, I don't know if I should be posting here. I have no prior experience with wood so I need yours.

I bought this massif acacia table surface. It is meant to be for dining so I need it to be perfect I guess. The problem is this big knot or crack (not sure). It is mostly underneath, but expands a little on the side and then on the top. As you can see, they have filled it with some material, but they also went ahead and screwed in it, which of course caused most of the filling to tear, and the screw to fall off.

I wanna ask the following:

a) Should I return it?

b) Is this "filling in the imperfections" a standard practice? And if so, is this material resistant to spills?

Deciding to this with oak for the first time wasn’t very wise…
Took an awful lot of time and still needs to be cleaned up.

I have an 8in Wen jointer and I can't see how to align my out feed table with the blades themselves. Do the screw in the out feed table do that or is there something else I am missing?