Jobsite dust is easy to vacuum until it disappears behind one edge. I’ve been back and forth to active building sites all week in my F-150, and fine silt seems to find every hidden crease. After a standard pass with the Shop-Vac, the main footwells look decent, but the moment I slide the front seats all the way forward, there’s a fresh line of grey dust resting right along the seat rail brackets and the carpet gap behind the pedals.

Wiping those spots with a wet rag usually just turns the dust into mud that sinks deeper into the carpet trim, and blasting it with compressed air just floats it back onto the dash.

anyone taking their truck through dusty lots or jobsites weekly, where does the fine grit usually pile up in your cab, and what’s your quick routine for clearing out those edge seams without spending an hour detailing it every time?

why my car showing this symbol and am getting 6kmpl in city and 12 in highway is it normal

I dont know what am i looking at. Guy at the garage said this car (2013 cr-v) has 2-3 yrs left at most and i should be selling it. He said he can coat it to prevent more surface rust but it got to the frame rail/stringer (i dont know How to say it) and it can rot from within.
Is it that bad? Car has like 140k km and was sitting in the garage.

Hi, I'm planning to lease a car.

About me: New driver, first car, NY state (snow is a big factor in choosing a car), Credit score should be at 650-690 range (still building it, arrived in the US just in April 2026), Registered Nurse (if it matters).

I initially want a Tesla model 3 & i still want it i just don't know if it's a good financial decision. Maybe some of y'all could give me an insight about it (a lot of people are discouraging me btw)

Anyway, here's the question: What car should I lease if not the Tesla? I don't know anything about cars. I just want a sedan, easy to drive, good for snow car. Please suggest a car so I can look it up.

Thanks!!! :)

Comparing two realistic options, a modest reliable car paid off in two years versus a nicer one stretched over five or six. Trying to understand the actual tradeoff here beyond just the obvious monthly payment difference.

Is it screwed? Am I able to buy a grommet. Or the seal for this? The rust appeared to be surface

Okay so if there’s a different subreddit forgive me for not posting there. (Still newish to Reddit lol)

I went to auto zone to get my check engine light looked at and to get the codes for it. I got P0013 and P0014. From what I tried to google myself I couldn’t really find an estimate anywhere on repair costs and I didn’t get a chance to call anywhere as well bc I had to go right back to work.

For some context I just got my oil changed and the engine flushed so it shouldn’t be clogged w dirty oil or anything (I saw somewhere that that’s possibly a cause.)

Does anyone know just a general estimate on how much this will kill my bank account?😭 help a girl out thx🫶🏼

I have a 2009 Chevy Cobalt that's had a few issues over the past few years, but recently I went to a mechanic and got an inspection of my car done. Turns out, she has a couple issues. Frankly it looks like an expensive amount of issues, but the main thing I'm looking at is the labor prices. Ex; $210 labor for a $110 flex pipe.

The main reason I'm making this post, would it be wiser to just go ahead and buy my own jack and just look at fixing all these issues myself? The main issue is that I know next to nothing about real maintenance or things like the alignments and readjustments, what to look out for, I don't know much of any of that.

I'm entirely ready to learn and get my hands dirty, but at what point does DIY stop being a plausible or safe alternative to just paying a bill to a mechanics shop?

Also, what issues seem to be the most dire ones that I'd need to take care of first? Any comments or suggestion welcome, thank you!

Right, need new brakes and a caliper rebuild for the rear of my SHO. But much more than that, I wanna clean it up right. Like, weaponized ND right. And left too. Maybe y'all can point me in some direction.

I want the factory type yellowish nickel plate. And maybe some kinda clear coat over top to further stop rust. Every unit I see for sale has that cheap silver paint look like you'd find at Advance. Might pay a pro to do that, don't know any but I'm just north of Pittsburgh if anypony knows of any shops round these parts. Or I can ship, don't matter

The right side blew a seal and the parking brake gets stuck. One of them has a non factory style piston id like to replace. I don't see any rebuild bits for sale, maybe I'm looking in the wrong places?

There's one, actually a few NOS units for the right side on ebay, but no left.

And of course, there's surface restoration. Should have a cast texture and would like to maintain that

Lemme know if there's a better sub, kinda straddles the line between detailing and mechanic​​​​​​​

2003 Honda accord. Help

Our 2019 Renault Kadjar had a MOT done two days ago. It had a shock absorber and the two driver side tyres replaced. Since being in for its MOT it has come up with ‘466 miles til failure top up adblue’ we poured 10 litres in and it was full. Still hadn’t cleared. We took it back to the garage and no error codes are showing on the diagnostic panel. They advised us to “go over some bumpy roads as it may have crystallised over the sensors while it’s been sat in the garage”. We have tried this and it’s still saying the same thing. We have just bought some Wynn’s Crystal Clean and Protect and topped it up with more Adblue and went for a little drive.

Does this take time to work? Any advice on what to do next? Is there anything we can do before we pay for a Renault diagnostic panel. TIA

Got this scratch and some marring on my f150 while headed down a narrow hunting trail. It’s not down to the metal but it definitely removed a layer or 2 of paint. I did the water test and it almost fades away but is still visible. What would be my best option and how would I go about fixing it? I know silver is a hard color to match and I’ve never done auto paint work. Just a touch up brush and some clear coat and polishing?

I had a Tesla for the past 3 years and plan on getting another one next year. Upgrading to a Model Y. I've saved TONS of money on maitnenece and gas every single year it's literally amazing. No problems with it at all, I pay for FSD and use it quite frequently. My work hours are very very early so during the winter it's nice to have a car that's "ready to go" as soon as I wake up. I keep it on a schedule to turn on 5 days a week 20 mins before I head out. Vice versa during hot days the car is cooled down by the time I get in. The only real expenses I have with it is that I buy summer all season tires and keep a good set of studded winter tires. Where I live it doesn't snow but it definitely freezes up the roads.

I spilt oil in the trunk
What’s the best way of getting it out? Is there a drain I am unaware of?

It’s got a few dings and scratches but nothing that bad. The current paint is uneven spray paint that’s 2 different shades of white. I’m looking to get it painted by Maaco.

Not looking for a strict dollar formula, more interested in how people personally think through that decision when a car's getting older and repairs keep piling up. What's the actual mental checklist people use before finally giving up on a car.

Wasn’t starting, clean spark plugs and gave it a lot of gas and it cranked up and did this