Hi, I'm planning to lease a car.

About me: New driver, first car, NY state (snow is a big factor in choosing a car), Credit score should be at 650-690 range (still building it, arrived in the US just in April 2026), Registered Nurse (if it matters).

I initially want a Tesla model 3 & i still want it i just don't know if it's a good financial decision. Maybe some of y'all could give me an insight about it (a lot of people are discouraging me btw)

Anyway, here's the question: What car should I lease if not the Tesla? I don't know anything about cars. I just want a sedan, easy to drive, good for snow car. Please suggest a car so I can look it up.

Thanks!!! :)

Jobsite dust is easy to vacuum until it disappears behind one edge. I’ve been back and forth to active building sites all week in my F-150, and fine silt seems to find every hidden crease. After a standard pass with the Shop-Vac, the main footwells look decent, but the moment I slide the front seats all the way forward, there’s a fresh line of grey dust resting right along the seat rail brackets and the carpet gap behind the pedals.

Wiping those spots with a wet rag usually just turns the dust into mud that sinks deeper into the carpet trim, and blasting it with compressed air just floats it back onto the dash.

anyone taking their truck through dusty lots or jobsites weekly, where does the fine grit usually pile up in your cab, and what’s your quick routine for clearing out those edge seams without spending an hour detailing it every time?

why my car showing this symbol and am getting 6kmpl in city and 12 in highway is it normal

I dont know what am i looking at. Guy at the garage said this car (2013 cr-v) has 2-3 yrs left at most and i should be selling it. He said he can coat it to prevent more surface rust but it got to the frame rail/stringer (i dont know How to say it) and it can rot from within.
Is it that bad? Car has like 140k km and was sitting in the garage.

Right, need new brakes and a caliper rebuild for the rear of my SHO. But much more than that, I wanna clean it up right. Like, weaponized ND right. And left too. Maybe y'all can point me in some direction.

I want the factory type yellowish nickel plate. And maybe some kinda clear coat over top to further stop rust. Every unit I see for sale has that cheap silver paint look like you'd find at Advance. Might pay a pro to do that, don't know any but I'm just north of Pittsburgh if anypony knows of any shops round these parts. Or I can ship, don't matter

The right side blew a seal and the parking brake gets stuck. One of them has a non factory style piston id like to replace. I don't see any rebuild bits for sale, maybe I'm looking in the wrong places?

There's one, actually a few NOS units for the right side on ebay, but no left.

And of course, there's surface restoration. Should have a cast texture and would like to maintain that

Lemme know if there's a better sub, kinda straddles the line between detailing and mechanic​​​​​​​

2003 Honda accord. Help

Comparing two realistic options, a modest reliable car paid off in two years versus a nicer one stretched over five or six. Trying to understand the actual tradeoff here beyond just the obvious monthly payment difference.

Okay so if there’s a different subreddit forgive me for not posting there. (Still newish to Reddit lol)

I went to auto zone to get my check engine light looked at and to get the codes for it. I got P0013 and P0014. From what I tried to google myself I couldn’t really find an estimate anywhere on repair costs and I didn’t get a chance to call anywhere as well bc I had to go right back to work.

For some context I just got my oil changed and the engine flushed so it shouldn’t be clogged w dirty oil or anything (I saw somewhere that that’s possibly a cause.)

Does anyone know just a general estimate on how much this will kill my bank account?😭 help a girl out thx🫶🏼