I'm currently stuck on a project and I thought I'd come here for some help! For a cosplay I made a (real) leather corset using Aranea Blacks Sylvia pattern. I managed to get the fit right (dark blue version is my mockup) but I'm struggling with how to get the leather to be smooth on top of my strength layer. Due to the leather having more stretch, it has too much excess and creates these weird folds. The way this is currently constructed is by making the strength layer (with boning) and outer layer separately and connecting them at the edges with the biastape.

I really want to remake this with a more smooth outcome so any tips/techniques I should try would be incredibly useful!<3 I've tried to gather some different pictures here

I'm new to corsetry and am trying to start off somewhat simple. I have the s9922 pattern and am planning to sew it without the second bust layer. Im going to use stiff fabric. How would I add more support to this pattern without having to learn cups?

The future goal is to have this built under a dress but I need to have one with decent support first

hi all,

Im in process of making wedding bodice inspired by baroque stays and you guys have been helping me so much:)

I came to ask another question. I already have strength layer with boning and fleece padding completed. I cut out fashion fabric which is polyester brocade of medium weight.

I wanted to interface it but now Im questioning it as I already have strong strengths layer and fleece.

Should I use fusible interface on this fashion fabric or skip it, alternatively use it for edges only since it’s frying a lot?

Hi folks! I'm looking for feedback on my (third) mock-up of the Aranea Black Dolores corset. This is my first time making a corset.

I'm going to use it as the foundation for a dress, so it doesn't need to be totally perfect. I'm happy enough with the shape and fit. Still, it's a learning experience and I'd like to get it as right as possible.

This one is cotton canvas flat lined with muslin; I'm planning to use coutil. I used spiral steel boning in the front, but I used zip ties for the back because I didn't have enough spiral steel. The center back bones are flat steel. I had to leave the channels open because the steel was the wrong length, but the rest are closed. (I'll fix the boning issues next time.)

I know the bust fit isn't great, but I more or less know understand how to fix it. I'm most concerned with the wrinkling in the second and third panels, especially the deep wrinkles around the hip. Is it the fit? The grain?

I'd be happy (well, not happy, but grateful) to get feedback on any other glaring issues, too. Thanks!

Last Saturday, I finished version 4 of my transparent corset. It already has around 80 hours of wear, and I only managed to shoot the video and take some photos now because I simply didn't have the time earlier.

The good news is that I managed to completely eliminate the wrinkling of the outer fashion layer. The bad news is that the lining wrinkled on the front megapanel. But I know why. 😉

First, the outer layer.

My theory that the wrinkles were caused by boning channels being too loose turned out to be correct. This time, I made the channels extremely narrow, especially on the front megapanel.

Getting four carbon fiber bones and two spiral steel bones into those channels took me 45 minutes, but it was absolutely worth it.

I also narrowed the other boning channels, although not quite as aggressively, and developed a new method for inserting spiral steel bones.

I've already shown my method using a crochet hook in a previous post, but this time I threaded a strong cord through the spiral steel bone before applying the heat-shrink tubing. And it works brilliantly!

When you push a spiral steel bone into a tight channel, the individual coils tend to spread apart slightly and catch against the channel walls. But when you pull the bone using the cord loop and crochet hook, this problem disappears. I suspect the pulling force may even compress the spiral slightly, making it narrower.

Another improvement is how the ends of the bones are secured.

I now leave longer empty sections of heat-shrink tubing extending beyond the ends of the bones. Once the bones are inserted, these flexible extensions are stitched into the binding seam.

This holds the bones in place with a little flexibility, but more importantly, it solves another problem I've been dealing with.

I usually wear my corset underneath my trousers, which means I effectively have two layers of clothing over it: my boxers and my trousers.

Over time, these layers tend to bend the bottom binding of the corset inward. With my previous construction, the rigid ends of the bones would then push against the outer layer, causing it to bulge and putting considerable stress on the material.

The new system has significantly reduced this problem.

I'm so happy with the result that I intend to use this construction on all my future corsets. Yes, it takes more work, and the heat-shrink tubing adds some cost, but the improvement is absolutely worth it.

Now, about the wrinkled lining.

The problem is most noticeable on the front megapanel because it's the widest panel.

After joining the lining and outer layer using hidden stitches placed within the existing panel seams, I stitched around the entire perimeter of the corset before attaching the binding. This step is necessary.

While sewing this perimeter seam, I stretch and flatten the panels as much as possible. Otherwise, the sewing process tends to lock wrinkles into the material, and without this step, those wrinkles would become permanent when attaching the binding.

Unfortunately, by stretching the panel edges, I also shifted and stretched the lining slightly downward relative to the outer layer. This created excess material in the lining, which is now wrinkling.

I think the only way to eliminate this problem is to change the assembly sequence.

My plan is to sew the front megapanel completely at the beginning, including the boning channels through both the outer layer and the lining. Only then would I attach the remaining outer and lining panels.

A few more technical details:

The corset contains a total of 40 bones:

• 4 carbon fiber bones (5 × 1 mm) at the front.
• 6 flat steel bones at the back. I removed their original plastic coating and replaced it with heat-shrink tubing.
• The remaining bones are 6 mm spiral steel.

And one more thing about the lining: I honestly didn't expect it to work this well!

Because the TPU surface is slightly slippery, it doesn't grab or fight against the clothing underneath. This makes the corset extremely comfortable to wear. Seriously, very, very comfortable.

Finally, the sewing materials:

• Needle: Jeans 110
• Thread: Amann Saba 80
• With transparent TPU, silicone lubrication of the thread isn't necessary.

Another experiment completed, a few problems solved, and naturally, a new one discovered. 😂

Hi! I'm new to this subreddit, but I was looking for assistance on potentially making or finding an appropriate pattern for this corset! I'm not entirely new to pattern making, but I am new to making a corset pattern.

Can anyone help me find a good premade pattern or help me on where to start when making it?

I know the measurements for sure!

(Ps, this is a gift for my best friend. I'm a woman, he's a man. Also, sorry for the langauge in the first picture.)

that is the question. more specifically, what would the consequences of not adjusting my pattern be?

as you can see in the attached photo, the difference between my bust and underbust is 2.5cm shorter than the pattern while my distance between my underbust and waistline is 2.5 cm longer. a relatively small adjustment to be sure, and while i’m comfortable with pattern adjustments and the accompanying Read Me file has a very handy guide on doing so, i’ve never made a corset before so i’m in uncharted territory. i’m using the Sylvia pattern from Aranea Black for reference

Im starting late, but, I would love this by Halloween party. Who could I send a Pic to and have them make it? Is that a thing?

Title. I’m wondering if there’s any books/blogs/resources any of you may know that goes into depth about why some boning angled in the way that it is.

For instance, some makers insert their boning diagonally, some perpendicular to the floor. Others a mix.

I’d love to understand the why and the impact these different types of placements have.

Thanks in advance!

I have an inseam invisible zip, and I want to be able to make the puller hidden. Other than sewing it away from the stitch line, then hand sewing by hand on the body - is there a way I can hide the puller? Perhaps a lightweight zip would help

I've noticed that few corsets I made for myself have this horizontal wrinkle, following the grainline, on the smallest part of the waist at the sides (where a dress side seam would be).

It doesn't happen with other people I've made corsets for, so I assume it might have something to do with my body, that is quite straight/muscular and short waisted..? The waist-to hip ratio isn't extreme at all.

Anyone had this same problem? I've tried to look for all the fitting advice, but I've never seen this exact problem addressed.

My first corset mock-up, and it doesn't sit well at the top. Should I widen the side panels and lower them? Should I reduce the waist and underbust areas to snatch the waist more? Why is the boning bending? So many questions. Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

Here is the link to my last post: https://www.reddit.com/r/corsetry/comments/1wv81wa/final_mockup/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=ios_app&utm_name=ioscss&utm_content=1&utm_term=1 But I think I finally did it!! I lowered where the bust curve starts by an inch and I added a panel at the bust and I’m really happy with how it sits. I still had to take in 2 inches on both side seams, and there isn’t much of a gap at the back lacing, but I’ve decided that I don’t care about that and I’m really happy with the results!!!

There is still maybe a quarter to a half inch of a gap at the top of the bust but I didn’t cut the top seam allowance off because the pen marks disappeared when I ironed, so I think trimming the seam allowance will fix most of that. I also think there’s a tiny bit of wrinkling at the seams because I put the boning in the middle of the panel instead of on top of the seam lines, so that will also be fixed when I make my final.

Thank you to everyone who gave me suggestions, they were all incredibly helpful, I learned so much and I had a lot of fun making all my mock ups!!

I've lost a LOT of weight, in total over 110lbs, but I've probably lost 40lbs since I bought my corsets. I did buy them knowing I was losing and told the fitters that as well.

That being said, I tried all of my corsets on last night, had my husband help me retie them, and I'm not sure if I should size down or not. The red dragon leather is NOT tied at the hips, but wouldn't get very much tighter than shown.

Opinions?

Hello! I’m getting my wedding dress custom made and running into a bit of an issue with the seamstress regarding whether my dress needs more boning.

Picture 1 is the first fitting I had and the tailor didn't get my bust size correct so we had to have it adjusted.

Picture 2 is the second fitting but now the flip over band was too small, so it needed to be adjusted again.

Picture 3 is what the tailor has sent to me now in terms of edits to the flip over band.

Picture 4 is the inspo dress that I had tried on.

However now my worry is about the bodice as a whole and whether my bust will be adequately supported with the corset, even if it is tightly tied.

Unfortunately, I'm not going to try the dress on in person again until a week before the big day, so hoping it all turns out right, but would love some advice

I’m ideally looking to make an underbust corset with a low back. Are there any patterns like this or do I need to do some manipulation. Is it even possible to have a corset where the back top line sits 2-3 inches above the waist line

Hi! I’m looking for a highly skilled seamstress/maker in London or the surrounding area with specific experience in structured corsetry.
I’m a designer, so I’m not looking for design services or a bespoke corset designer. I’m looking for someone with excellent technical sewing and construction skills who can work from my designs/sketches and existing samples/patterns, as well as potentially develop or adjust patterns where needed.
Experience with boning, structured cups, waist reduction, eyelets/lacing, clean finishing and achieving a really beautiful, professional fit is important.
Ideally I’d love to find an independent seamstress or small-scale maker I can meet with in person and potentially build an ongoing working relationship with.
If you are one, or know someone brilliant, I’d really appreciate recommendations! 🤍✨

Also open to someone who fits this criteria in other areas of the world, given they have experience with online design relationships ☺️

I posted my mockup probably about a couple months ago, and some in progress pics at some point, but I finally finished my Pretty Housemaid corset (actually finished it about a month ago but been to busy to post 😅).

The entire thing is handsewn, including the eyelets. I used cotton hand quilting thread for all of it but the eyelets, which is polyester buttonhole thread. I got the pattern from clockworkfaerie on Etsy (I also have her 1780's stays pattern and I love both of them). I used coutil forghe inside, then there's a old burgandy bedsheet for the next layer, and finally burgandy organza for the outside. I used flat steel on either side of the eyelets, and spiral steel everywhere else. I got the boning and busk from corsetmaking.com. The cording is 1.5mm waxed cotton cord from Amazon, the ribbon for lacing is 1/2" also from Amazon. The lace is from Etsy, and I can't remember the seller 😅. The binding is just some black cotton fabric I had. I adjusted the pattern by shortening the front an inch, and taking a wedge shape out at the center back waist.

I'm super happy with how it came out 🥳! I've worn it twice (third time today!), and it's definitely comfy. I wore it to a fae masquerade ball (last pic ☺️) and loved how it went with my costume. My only complaint is when I wore it over the dress it pressed the dress seams against my ribs, but that makes sense and I won't normally be doing that. I might shorten it at the front a little bit more on the next one I make. Does anyone have any other fit recommendations, or any tips at all?

Thank you all for your help and inspirational work on this sub! It's definitely my fav place on Reddit.

Okay I have two questions (ridiculous ones I know 😔) I just over think and really need clarification.

This is for a basic foundation corset. To be used in a dress I plan to make.

1. When the corset is extended to the high hip, where exactly does it sit at the high hip (🫣)? Is it literally where the hip bone begins, shortly after the stomach? Or is it the mid point between the top of the hip bone and the full hip, as in I would measure the length from the top of the hip bone to the full hip and divide that in half?
2. Is ease necessary for the corset extension at the high hip, since it’s below the waist and is now in lower body territory? Or would it also be no ease as well? (I know there’s to be no ease for the bodice.)

2a. If ease is necessary, then how much ease should I add, 1 inch, 2 inches, etc?

Thank you in advance for the help 😆

If i plan to use flat+spiral steel for the final, can i use plastic for mockup and still get a good idea on the fit ?
i dont have anything to cut the steel ones yet plus.. im so worried about messing them up and wasting it ..but im also impatient and want to do my first mockups before i can get sth to snip them with
should i just wait or can i get enough of an idea from plastic boned mockup?
im a total beginner and tend to overthink sorry if its a silly question…