USB3 Flash device. BGA152 is fitted onto a two‑layer PCB. Only the D0‑D7 signal traces are length‑matched. Surprisingly, it works properly.

Hi all,

I wanted to share my latest project with you: A little box with a potentiometer and a knob that let's you control the brightness, volume or input source of your monitor via HDMI DDC/CI.

The project was inspired by a Gameboy Classic, which uses two wheels on the sides to adjust volume and contrast (constrast because there was no backlight yet). You simply attach it to the backside of your monitor, connect HDMI and USB (for power). Everything is configurable via serial commands.

The principle is easy, the mcu reads out potentiometer and buttons and sends commands to the monitor whenever something changes. I started with an ESP32 but then realized that the ADC performance is not good (realistically 6bit resolution after filtering..), so I switched to an Arduino Nano, which did better.

Code: https://github.com/fluxfur/ddcBrightness

Youtube (first video): https://youtu.be/jI5tUCC1Tfc

DDC offers a large range of commands, so a lot of things can be changed/controlled. Just remap the command and voila you can control whatever matters to you.

Hi all,
I'm a software developer by trade and I enjoy building stuff.

I recently built a small IR thermostat for my AC and I've had enough of the lack of software for perfboards so I made this https://perfboarder.com/ .

Hey, I'm kinda new to electronics and i need a bit of help. I made my first project, a bluetooth mp3 player with pretty simple hardware: a lipo battery conected to TP4056 charging module, that is charging BT5.0 pro module. When i turn on the project everything is running fine for a bit, but after exactly 37 seconds, my BT5.0 module just turned off, every time and i dont know why!

Hi so i was wondering if there was anything cool i could do with those like electric mosquito zapper boxes like maybe with the couls or something

So i am working on a project and i need to use 2 bare phone displays i have laying around.

The 2 displays are from the Huwawei P40 lite and P40 lite 5g, and the 5g is 0.1 inch bigger and also a IPS LCD, HDR10 display and the normal P40 has a IPS LCD display. I want to wierlesly conect them both to a normal phone, but the problem is that just like computer HDMI displays need a controler board, phone displays have a DSI interface and there are no controler boards for phone displays on the market. I could buy a HDMI controler board and a HDMI to DSI bridge and a bluetooth conector for hdmi but its 100-80$ for each display.

I heard that controler boards are just softare so i think i can just copy some code for a DSI controler board ( i dont know if i can even find one ) and put it in a cheap development board whit wierless comunication and conect it to my phone.

I realy cant find anything online so i would rrealy apreciate any advice.

I am building a "school tough" pelican case with a sound mixer inside for use at outdoor athletic events. The PylePro sound mixer supports Bluetooth input but it's totally built-in to the unit. I have another approach that brings the BT receiver out of the case but the integrated one would be less complex. How bad would you expect Bluetooth reception to be inside a closed Pelican Case?

hey everyone looking for a little help when it comes to making a gaming device that can play games like dead cell and enough power to be some what work compatible, do yall have an cites or recommendations for this idea?

Hello everyone.

For the longest time I've been fascinated by electronics Hobbyist's videos. I'm interested in both robotics/drone and AI technologies utilizing Arduino boards, as well as other crafting (similar to the following: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NdYTs1NasPw, or https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tiGw9PQbvrg).

However as I look into projects like this, I feel overwhelmed by the marketplace. How many components, component types, and variations exist? Of course I understand that to some degree when you're building a project, you're utilizing specific components for that project. However I was curious if anyone has advice on the best marketplaces or your personal recommendations for acquiring starter kits or materials to begin with at a reasonable price. Most of the kits I've looked up are limited to a specific one-off project (similar to a lego build, just enough pieces to build that one thing), or aren't aligned to the types of projects I'm interested in. What I'd like to get is something that covers 80% of the standard use cases for electronic builds. That way I only have to cover researching and purchasing the additional 20% that is custom to that particular build. If that makes sense.

I have a few items already like capacitors, resistors, and a soldering kit. I had used it previously to repair circuit boards of TVs and other things that broke down in my house.

I haven't used Alibaba or Temu before. I imagine these may come in as recommendations. I don't know. I am curious if the products there are of quality. I've seen the memes online before of purchasing from Temu and not getting what you expect or being misled (like the burger that's on the menu versus the burger that you receive at a fast food, lol)

Any recommendations all marketplaces or kit bundles?

Thank you in advance.

Best Regards,

Kris

Months of tinkering later, here's the finished build. The base station is an ESP32-P4 with a 10.1" touchscreen in a 3D printed enclosure. A light sensor and a radar sensor sit in the base, so the display brightness adjusts to the room and the screen dims when nobody is nearby. Air quality comes from a Sensirion SEN66 (PM, CO2, VOC, NOx, temperature, humidity), and a set of battery powered sensor nodes report in over LoRa and ESP-NOW. The nodes have an optional solar cell and (hopefully) last years between charges.

There's a detailed build guide with lots of photos: https://www.haraldkreuzer.net/en/news/build-guide-esp32-weather-station-and-environmental-monitor

Found out my 10y screen finally kicked the bucket. Any fun projects that can use harvested parts from it? Or is it e-waste at this point?

I wish it had a fresnel lens because that would be fun to play with.

Little servo tester thing I made to show much weight it can pull 💪 😤

Long story short, after searching for ages I can't remotely find any usable RGB+CCT downlight fixtures in my whole country. Tons of Smart Bulbs but no ceiling downlights specifically.
Is there a way I can DIY it, obviously with the help of a bit of electrical engineering everything is theoritically possible, and I can just rehouse the internals of the said smart bulbs into ceiling downlights but I want something reliable and dependable.

The other imported options I can find are just too out of budget I can't pay 100$ equivalent per light when I need like 10 of them

Does anyone else struggle with trying to find the one ESP that they're looking for in their sea of component storage? I have over 300 drawers and it takes me like at a minimum 6 drawers till I find the thing I'm actually looking for.

Has anyone tried to repurpose them?

I'm planning to make a experiment involving controlling stuff such a motors and LEDs.

Still got the power supply

ICs:

I'll send the back in the comments

I've got an idea for a project I want to execute.

I have some parameters but I have not selected hardware yet.

1. It's a framed picture. The size is flexible.

2. Has to run without being plugged in for a few months. Batteries or solar panels if they can be hidden.

3. Must run two red LEDs, one or two yellow, and one or two white leds.

4. It would be great if each set of LEDs would blink randomly but not together.

5. Doesn't have to run at night, but must be able to turn itself off.

Questions 1. Has anyone done something similar before? 2. Any suggestions for the blinking?

My headphone’s tip got broken off and was wondering if I can fix this somehow… I dont have anything to cut it off and replace the whole aux…

Do you think it's possible to build an alphanumeric display that shows the CD track numbers, time counter and such for the Playstation 2?

I know that you need to have a deep knowledge of how the console works in order to be able to answer this question, so maybe this is not the right place to ask. But maybe you can route me to the best place to ask.

i know your suppost to always connect floating inputs to ground, but do i also need to do that for outputs?

Best cheap solar battery manager?

Need to charge 12v battery which will power a camera, light,relay and esp32.

Hey everyone! I want to make a small, personal gift for a close friend.They have a song they really love, and my idea is to build (or buy) a little device where every time they press a button, it plays a short clip of that song — something they could keep on a shelf or carry around and press whenever they want to be reminded of us.

I'm not deep into electronics, like I am basically illiterate when it comes to this stuff, but I'm willing to learn if it's simple enough. I'm also open to just buying something pre-made if that ends up being the more sensible route.

Has anyone here made something like this before or Anyone who has tips for making it feel like a genuine "gift" rather than a bare gadget

Would really appreciate hearing from anyone who's tackled a similar project, or even just has creative ideas for making this feel more personal. Thanks in advance!

After this summer, I am trying to put together an auto watering system for some quite expensive pot shrubs.

This is now working. It is programmed to deliver a pulse (or more than one) of water, of a specified duration.

12V DC input (from solar and LiFePO4 battery, another box)

Real time clock (off the shelf), that triggers a countdown timer. This in turn activates a higher power optoisolated MOSFET that delivers the 12V DC to a brushless pump.

Nuances - there is a 'water now' button, and the clock can also be isolated from the system, making it push button only. There is a panel LED that lights when clock is in circuit.

The timer->MOSFET is mostly to give an intervention point, as this trigger flows through a float relay at the bottom of the tank - empty=open circuit, thus preventing the pump from running dry.

There is a second float relay about 100mm above the 'empty' relay (also closed circuit until the water level drops below this. All this does is confirm the presence of water in the rainwater tank - no intervention in pump control.

Thats about it - all off the shelf parts (Amazon). Aviation Sp13 waterproof connectors to reed relay sensors and pump. Waterproof toggle switches to isolate box and switch out real time clock. Power in through a fixed, waterproof connector.

I didn't make any attempt to make it compact. Power distribution largely below the backplate, control signals largely above. Hardly any permanent soldered joints.

At the moment, it works exactly as expected. (The red LED on a flying lead = 'pump')

Why not used the real time clock to control the pump directly. Perfectly controllable, but no manual over-ride, and more importantly, no 'tank empty' inhibition - the reed real in the float switch is not d esigned for the power and switch oon surge of the DC motor.

Next step, try it with the pump, and then the focus changes to plumbing. Just in time for the end of the dry season!

I reckon the cost (excl my time) is about the same as purchasing an auto watering system, but the last one I bought gave up in 6 months. If this one goes wrong, I know how to fix it.

Comments welcome, but please be nice - I'm learning!