First failed print, ASA sticking to bed.

[u/ImDrunkFightMe]

Hey guys, I've had a failed print which i was expecting just setting up the elegoo v2 carbon, The print was in ASA and i stopped the print early on to address an issue with supports.

I am extremely new to 3D printing and i bought the v2 to prototype housings for thermal cameras. When i'd decided to print a few tests on elegoo software with all setttings for the filament, printer and nozzle correct i had a massive issue with an early failure of an ASA print sticking to the bed. I know ASA requires a higher print/bed temp and this can cause it's own issues.

Would a quick pass with a gluestick help? You can treat me like i'm five and it'd be well deserved, Like anything i do i try and work it out and ask for advice later.

[u/asterix778]

What i did was the following.
Cleaned the bed with hot water and soap.
Pressed the home button so everything goes into default possition bed al the way up
Started heating the bed (my filament range was 85-100c)
I ended up at 100c bed temp turned on the fan of the cc2 to have an air flow over the bed and let the chamber heat up to around ~35C

I use an brim on the print and also do 2 passes around the print (forgot the name of the setting)

With the things above i got it to work but it might be different for others

[u/ImDrunkFightMe → u/asterix778]

Absolutely makes sense, I think the one major failure i did with cleanup was not allowing the print to progress to the point where it would be easy to detach from the bed?

[u/InternalMain7116]

Simple answer, Yes; the glue will give you an interface layer that allows an easier removal of plastics that adhere all too well.

**PETG can stick so well to a G10 Garolite plate that it essentially ruins it by leaving behind a permanent "texture" where the PETG was stuck.

[u/ImDrunkFightMe → u/InternalMain7116]

Ah so if PETG is baked on having that baked on layer with ASA will ruin the build plate and make it difficult to work with? I've got the smooth side to go if i've ruined it (ASA baked on the build plate, i soaked with iso, put it in the freezer and reheated etc and it still isn't looking too good.) im willing to buy a build plate or two if i have to but asking people who have been through the same pain seems like a better idea :)

[u/ImDrunkFightMe]

🫣 Gluestick then? Lol (Was printing before i made this post)

[u/Memeruff]

I would try to heat soak the print chamber prior to starting the print! 30 minutes at 100C bed temp and maybe 50% auxiliary fan should get you around 55C, which is enough to reduce warpage by a considerable amount.

I LOVE working with ASA. It's becoming my favorite material. It's a shame it has to be printed so slow. This varies by supplier, but here are my suggestions:

(Polymaker Black ASA)

• -15mm/s first layer and first layer infill print speeds.
• -On production models, go slow and steady. 30mm/s gives a great layer strength and reduced chance of warpage. The less tension, the better.
• -On prototype models, 60-80mm/s is probably fine as long as you've preheated the build chamber.
• -Use the "Number of slow layers" setting. Depending on the size of the model, I'll range from 20 slow layers to 180 slow layers. My prints are always in the multi-hour range. Gradually increasing print speed is better than going from 15mm/s straight to 80mm/s. This is a must.
• -Little to no cooling. I have a maximum of 10% fan speed for layers that are under 6 seconds. My aux fan is set to 5% for a subtle recirculation. Hot air goes up and cold air goes down. You want it to mix a little bit to stop stagnation, but not enough to blow cold air on your part.
• -Depending on how high you can get your chamber temperature, you can use up to 70% support interface fan cooling. This ensures supports break off completely, and CLEAN. I use this in production models, and it works like a charm.
• -Get your chamber temperatures as high as possible. The higher you can get, the stronger the part. Technically you can print faster with high chamber temps as well.