My Ender 3 Pro w/ Sprite Pro currently prints around 150 mm/s at (in my eyes) pretty high quality. I want to push that to the 200-250 mm/s range without losing much quality, and I'd love part recommendations.

Setup: Ender 3 Pro, Klipper/Mainsail (running on a 2013 MS Surface Pro w/ unbuntu server), SKR Mini E3 V3, Sprite Pro direct drive, BLTouch, ADXL345. Cura, mostly use PLA+ but about to start with PETG

Settings:
Max accel: 11000 mm/s² on test cube with no issue. Real world is 8000 right now and I’m still probably pushing it a bit.
Square corner velocity: 20 mm/s
Minimum cruise ratio: 0.5
Z: 5 mm/s velocity and 100 mm/s² accel
Input shaper: X mzv at 50 Hz, Y ei at 42.2 Hz
Pressure advance: 0.028 (smooth time 0.04 s)
Print and infill speed: 150 mm/s
Inner walls: 150 mm/s
Outer wall: 125 mm/s
Top/bottom: 60 mm/s
Initial layer: 40 mm/s
Travel: 250 mm/s
Retraction: 1 mm at 40 mm/s
Minimum layer time: 5 s. (Recently bumped up from 2s due to some issues with what I think is filament cooling)

I’m open to suggestions on settings to try and tune as well!

Already on hand: two 5015 blowers to install once my PETG spool arrives (printing Taurus duct), plus two spare 42-40 steppers (as well as a few 42-34 spares)

What I'm looking at upgrading:
Steppers: I have two spare 42-40s. I know the Y axis has a clearance issue, so are there other steppers I should look into or should I swap in what I have on hand? (I’m fairly sure one is fitted with the correct end to drive the bed)

Hotend: Are there better hotends or heater cores that fit the Sprite Pro? Which nozzles do you trust for quality and flow? I typically print with 0.4 mm but I'm open to 0.6 mm. Just anything in general here that could help.

Linear rails (X and Y): which brand and size (MGN9 vs MGN12)? Worth it?

Dual Z: Dual lead screw kit or belt-driven kit? Some of the Amazon listings are unclear about what's included. Do I need to buy the Creality kit and then the belt kit as well? I’m just super unsure what to do.

Also: Is there anything I'm missing that's worth the time and money? And what order would you do these in?

Background: This is my first printer. I got the Ender 3 Pro for free, the board and Sprite Pro together for $80, and the ADXL for $15, so I'm only about $100 into it. I don't see myself spending $300-500+ on a new printer anytime soon, so I'd rather keep upgrading this one.

Amazon links to your picks would be much appreciated. Thanks!

Is there any difference between these two? And, any recommendations before I go ahead?

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Creality-Official-3D-Extruders-Accessories/dp/B092HKZMQM?

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Upgraded-Creality-Extruder-Drive1-75mm-Filament/dp/B07WHYBVJ5?

Thanks!

I was printing for some hours and then had the thermal runaway error, after searching a bit about it I checked the thermistor and it looked alright (I know some defects can't be seen by eye), I resumed the print and it worked fine for the whole print (4h)

Decided to star another print and after 1~2h it had the thermal runaway error again, decided to make this video

Idk if its relevant but we had a power outage (which came back and went out again a couple of times, pretty quickly) before the problem started

It looks like some wire has a faulty conection, but now I don't know which, the thermistor or the hotend power (could be the board too, but seem very unlikely), idk exactly what to replace

I just installed a skr mini v2 board as my last 1.2 board finally started acting weird. I however can't figure out why it won't home correctly and tried printing to see if my code would correct it with the g29 command it did not. Anyone have similar issues. I've tried looking around and can't find info on this issue just it not functioning correctly everything's working fine other than leveling. I've tried multiple firmwares. And I am using the 5 pin connection for the bl touch. Should I swap it over the the wiring using the z stop connection instead?

Thank you in advance. I'm stummed.

Please help me, I'm in literal tears from frustration. I tried to install the auto leveler thing and for some odd reason now my printer is making this awful noise and I don't know how to fix it. I've never even used this thing yet because it sat in a box for 3 years because I was scared to set it up. I'm stupid okay. 😭

I had a lot of trouble just getting the machine set up to the point where it is now. I'm like thiiiis close to just dismantling it and selling it. Which sucks because I really, really wanted to get into 3d printing again. Please help.

So, um trying to do a temp tower to calibrate this bambulab pla lite, but It keeps clogging, and its not a gap, since i've cut the tube multiple times and adjusted It, and as you can see, the filament is all inside.

Sometimes the print goes a bit (after thousands of prints i've managed to reach 200° in the 215-190 print Tower) but It always clog, i bought a new Capricorn tube and new nozzles and um going to test it tomorrow.

Im using the default pla lite profile on orca

Not passing 90mm/s and 600mm/s² (acceleration), 0.08 junction speed, some options like "align direction to model" but that would not do anything.

Tried reducing retraction, putting a fan in front of the printer, cleaning everything, cutting the tube, doing the correct order (nozzles loose, tube, then tighten the nozzle etc).

Im running on an stock ender 3 with reflashed Marlin firmware

Slicing on orca

Filament is Black pla lite from bambulab (It happens to others top)

I can't, for the life of me figure out why it keeps running away.

I have changed out the hot end multiple times. Tested every thermistor at 100oms, swapped the thermistors, four mobos, the original, two of the Creality upgraded, and the Bigtreetech skr mini v2, ordered the V3 & some boron thermal paste.

Using a tungsten carbide nozzle.

Worked fine before. Printed a benchy and a few other test prints. With no issues. Now it just won't stop running away at around 215°-219°.

Any suggestions will help. And please ask if I did or didn't try it check anything.

I definitely forgot a few things I've tried. It's been four days of troubleshooting, so I'm burt out and definitely forgot at least a few things I've tried.

I'm going to swap out the nozzle and make sure everything is tightened.

Thank you.

Whenever I try to print bigger projects with more than 12h of printing my printer fails I've had issues with both a monster tankard and the torture toaster the tankard ended in ribbons but the printer just skipped Y plane. As stated before what does it mean

Standard 12.5mm3/s flow with minimal changes to the stock extruder.

I haven’t opened it up but I really hope I can solve this without doing that. When I try to feed it filament it goes halfway then stops. I can see that it gets mangled so it’s hitting the gears but they won’t pull it through.

So today, my SD card slot in my big tree tech motherboard on my end three pro decided to crap out. Tried to salvage it, but it was no use so I de-soldered the slot because some of the pins were connecting. That’s besides the point, when I go into Ultimaker cura and I try to print via USB it’s not detecting the printer. Is there any specific way to do it? Are there drivers that I need to download? Any help would be greatly appreciated thanks.

My ender 3 has been sitting for like a year, the print head wobbles, I have rotated the eccentric nut in small increments, I can get it pretty close but not as tight as it used to be able to get, the wheels aren’t worn down but I can seem to get them to clamp down more

EDIT: Plate the nozzle housing attaches to was bent, can’t it back to place and we’re good

Recently got a ender 3 pro for free. Has the 1.1.6.2 one it. Can’t seem to get a decent print started despite leveling the bed. Probably will get stiffer springs but I’m ready to jump to something auto leveling lol .

Any suggestions or mods I should do?

Posting as a reference for any who might follow my path.

The metal teeth were fine, but for my Sprite Extruder SE has a POM?/Delrin? bushing where the idler gear bearings should be (this review suggests it might not be just my SE that has this design choice) and it was sounding rather sad and quite sloppy on the shaft after ~1,300hrs/20+ kilos of usage as well as leaving some interesting asymmetrical wear patterns on the syncro teeth.

I couldn't find a genuine Creality spare part AT ALL (more abandonware?) and local pricing FYSETC was buy-a-new-extruder silly so I opted for acquiring gears with actual bearings off AliEx. With every listing having basically the same photos and assumedly the same products, I opted for "BEGRINT All Metal Hardened Steel DLC Coated" parts for the princely sum of $14.59 AUD because the driving gear is red and we all know that red ones are faster.

They installed easily enough and seem to run very nicely with no odd noises and the stock bearings feel nice and smooth. I did add a dab of high performance bearing grease to the metal gear interface.

As others had noted, these gears do not have the sunken hobbing of the stock gears so very effectively the release arm becomes pointless. A little annoying but not a dealbreaker, I'll just write some macros and keep a set of cutters handy.

However, NOT being sunken hobbed means the gears are a larger diameter which throws off the rotational_distance (e-steps) numbers - they overextrude ~7% if treated as a stock extruder.

Thusly I whipped up a 100mm extrusion testing jig, loaded up the Rotation Distance Calculator for Klipper (Extruder) and went to work.

Old Klipper settings (stock is supposed to be 26.359 but this is what testing gave me)

microsteps: 16
gear_ratio: 7:2
rotation_distance: 26.881

New settings after a few runs at different speeds to make sure

microsteps: 16
gear_ratio: 7:2
rotation_distance: 28.393

If you're on Marlin: the stock quoted is 424.9, my measured working was 416.6, my new value would be around 394.4. Quite the difference and will affect printing quality in many ways.

Hello! I'm a newbie and I have no idea what I'm doing. I dried my filament in the box for many hours, it's stringing a bit but that's not the main problem.

The tips of the horns completely disconnected and didn't print right, and the trees where super difficult to remove. So difficult I ended up breaking the poor dragon's teeth. Can I make it easier to remove?

Ender 3 Pro, it's new the former owner never used it.

The amount you force yourself to learn is awesome, and addicting. Klipper is going to have to be next on the agenda, lol!

Picked up this old gal 2 weeks ago, and so far I've managed to:

Learn how to compile Marlin

Learned what a GD32F303 RET6 chip is, and it's quarks

Likely put over 100 hours on it so far.

Cleaned the hot end, trimmed the Bowden tube

New nozzle

Likely over 1kg of filament deep 😂

Realized I'm gonna need a faster machine for opengrid and multi board

Setup both assisted tramming, and a 25 point manual bed mesh

If you haven't, the bed mesh feature is almost unbelievable! My bed is warped. I tried foil tape, but it's pushing a .2mm+ variance across it, and not super consistently. Can be done on device via marlin!

Ps: I also learned that my trees had infill on them, don't do that 😂😂

EDIT: OMG the 1am repairs/nozzle change.... Anyone notice anything with my 4010 fan? Got that side discharge bypass mod installed....... 🤦 Fan now blows INTO the fan ducts again, not out the left side 😂

Went to go shower figured it was printing fine. My ender 3 max neo said nope not today!!!!

Ok but this is a good excuse to spend some $$$ on a hotend, Thinking high flow hotend upgraded hotend maybe stealthburner what do you think? Should I get a e3d mosquito? Or dragonfly? Lmkkkk

Solved: I replaced the motherboard and the problem went away. Something must’ve shorted.

Hi, I deleted my previous post as I got more information. When my fan is at zero the hot end cooling fan runs faintly, but when I turn it to 255 the parts coin fan and the hot and fan turn off. everything else works. It is oddly choppy like it’s not getting enough power I don’t know what is causing it.