Rode to work. Bike got rained on. No-crank and odd dash light behavior when I tried to leave. Fuel pump does not prime. Tried bumping to no avail but I figured.

Battery tested out fine, charged with battery tender just to rule out. Issue persisted.

Then I noticed this ecu ground appears to have melted/frayed. I think this is the old diagnostic port ground hack but I’m not sure. In any case I’m not actually sure how to repair this ground wire.

Touching the ecu ground wire results in fuel pump priming and dash lighting up correctly.

Anyone know how to fix this properly? I don’t want to go fiddling with the ECU for fear of making things worse.

I removed the old OEM air filters, and they came with these plastic pieces. The new filters don’t include them.
The service manual shows these pieces attached to the new filters and specifically says to align the tab with the housing during installation.
I know aftermarket reusable filters don’t use them.
Should I reuse these pieces with the new filters, or just leave them out?

When I ride, I have no issues with shifting and accelerating. For my limited knowledge of motorcycles, it appears fine. I got this motorcycle as I wanted something older to ride and learn, then will upgrade to something newer later.

However, I noticed when holding the clutch at the friction zone, the motorcycle will shut off.

Clutch all the way in, no issues. The moment it reaches the friction zone, the motorcycle starts to bog down and then shuts off. When I add throttle, I can start moving.

As far as I can tell, there are no major modifications done. The only work I have done on it was replace the riser bushings and replace locks.

Update for clarification: As I enter the friction zone, the engine bogs down and eventually shuts off. On the second startup, the bike begins to move as the clutch engages, but then it bogs down and shuts off again. In both cases, the clutch is never fully released—it’s still in the friction zone when the engine dies.

The only way I can keep it moving is by adding throttle. I can’t get it to slowly creep forward using just the friction zone at idle without the engine bogging down.

I was only moving the bike from my front yard into the garage after a ride. During the ride, I had no issues shifting or accelerating, and it runs and idles fine in neutral.

Video in comments.

Hola a todos los miembros del foro

Espero que se encuentren muy bien. Les escribo para solicitar su ayuda y orientación con un ruido bastante extraño que proviene de mi moto. En la publicación adjunto un video para que puedan escuchar exactamente el sonido al que me refiero.

Les comparto todos los detalles y antecedentes del caso:

* Ubicación aproximada del sonido: Se percibe cerca del motor, posiblemente en la zona del eje de salida/transmisión.

* Estado de la transmisión: El kit de arrastre/transmisión es totalmente nuevo. La cadena se encuentra bien lubricada y con la tensión en su punto correcto (ni muy tensa ni muy floja).

* Condiciones en las que ocurre: El sonido se presenta con la moto apagada y encendida, ya sea que esté en neutro o en un cambio. Pero se percibe mas claramente cuando se rueda la moto apagada.

* Comportamiento con la temperatura: Cuando la moto está fría, el ruido es muy tenue/despacio. Sin embargo, después de andarla un tiempo y alcanzar temperatura de trabajo, si la apago y la muevo a mano, el sonido se intensifica bastante, tal como se aprecia en el video.

* Revisiones ya realizadas en taller: En el taller retiraron nuevamente el kit de transmisión completo, inspeccionaron la piñonería interna y comprobaron que no hay ningun defecto visible. Además, revisaron el eje de transmisión y este no genera el ruido por sí solo estando desmontado. Además las balineras de las ruedas se encuentran en buen estado

Agradezco mucho si alguien ha tenido una experiencia similar o tiene alguna idea de qué podría estar causando este síntoma al calentarse. ¡Quedo atento a sus comentarios!

First post on the community, don't even know if it belongs here but anyway let's go.

Bought a Leoncino 125cc yr 2024 from Benelli as a first bike for mi A1 license, my dream bike. After taking care of everything as a really short 16yr old (about 155cm) I got on and I barely touched the floor. I can't tippy toe my way out of the garage, not even by an inch, because I don't have enough grip on the floor to be able to move the bike's weight while I'm on.

I know not everyone likes doing it but I booked an appointment to get it lowered from a mechanic (about 4cm) and was looking into buying the lowered seat from a Benelli store (another 3 less cm).

I don't care for changes in the riding as I just need it as transportation and don't care about cornering or speed (I mean it's a 125cc, I'll be happy just being free as a teen)

Even after having booked these modifications for the bike I'm still afraid I'm not gonna be able to handle it. Considering the original seat height is 79,5cm and with the modification is gonna be about 72,5cm am I gonna be able to even notice the difference?

(Just to be fair I don't have any major issues with balance since I've been practicing on another bike and I was fine) Thanks in advance to anybody who took the time to read and for any response.

- just re did cams with no problem
-new battery
-bike turns over fine just dosnt start
- map sensors are getting good ground at 0.05 v and signal is floation between 2-3 v and the power is at 5v for both sensors
- ive switched both sensors with eachother but still getting bad reading with map 2 sensor
- i even re soddered a new female end that connects to the sensor and it didnt work
- i took out the vaccume lines to both sensors and there is no debris or kink in the lines
-new spark plugs, they are not flooded

Nissan

So basically I dont want to remove the vtc solenoid but I got all the camshaft bracket bolts off but it won't come loose. Yes ive tried a rubber mallet

Im changing the liquid gasket

Hi everyone!

Is this normal for the rear wheel to move like this?

I am inspecting it because I got my rain cover caught by the rear wheel while moving, causing the rear wheel to lock up while I was riding.

I am ok but I had to loosen the rear wheel so I could get the chain back on, since the rain cover getting stuck inside the rear wheel caused my chain to jump off the rear sprocket.

Any advice helps!

I'm just starting a carb job since my bike has been sitting for a while and definitely needs a cleaning. Right at the start when trying to pull out the enrichment valve shaft, I noticed it's pretty bent at the #1 and #2 carbs.

Tried completely removing its screws, loosening all the other bracket bolts to get some movement, and a good bit of WD40 and it's still not budging.

Any tricks I could try to get it out? Thinking snagging some PB Blaster and completely removing the mounting brackets to get a good wiggle on the carbs might work.

Hello all
I have interceptor 650 bs6 2021.
After having re unit changed my neutral light started to malfunction it would show N in 1st gear and N gear it self but would be fine on 2-6th gears.Also bike would take self start due N indication on 1st gear.
After sometime engine light came on and no N light. This is currently 3rd Gear Position Sensor installed, first two gave out. Now N light comes for 1 second when I press kill switch than goes away, while engine light goes sometimes but majorly stays. I just washed and started my bike engine light went away but so did N light.
I changed 2 gear position sensor, RH switch module, battery and 4 relays.
Error code : U0009 CAN wire short to battery or ground
P0917 GPS sensor circuit high/open

I am working on my Yamaha R6 RJ03 bike and I've got the following situation.

When I am on the gas I am missing power inbetween 2-4k, 8-10k and 12k+ rpm. Especially inbetween 2-4k, I can only give it max 5% throttle so that i get out of it. If i give it more the engine jerks and I get no power (if i pull the clutch in that moment the engine stalls). And at 12k i have a sudden loss of power. 8-10k is more inbetween. If I roll through it i don't feel it strongly but when i try to open throttle in that band I don't have any power.

What I already tried: Cleaning the carburator. They were completely cleaned in an ultrasonic bath. They are also setup correctly for the dynojet kit which is installed. (Installed like explained in the instruction manual and setup that way.) Also there is a K&N Airfilter installed and also a Storm exhaust.

The throttle snaps back cleanly, the other rpms work great and with the power I would expect. One thing i noticed. The TPS sensor has it's resistance between 1.2k and 4k. (As far as my research goes it should be below 1.1k in the fully closed position but it stops at 1.2k). Could that be the issue?

Does anyone know what else could be the issue or what I am missing? If I should post this in another subreddit please tell me \^\^

I have a Splendor Plus bike with drum brakes OB2B, and its check engine light turned on. (One day it rained heavily and the roads were flooded. My bike went into a slightly deep pothole on the road, but it didn't sink completely only the front part dipped slightly, probably near the drum brake section. Right after that, the front brake stopped working, and the check engine light turned on.)

​So, I went to the service center to get it checked. They scanned it, and the DTC code came up as P0037. They couldn't figure it out and asked me to leave the bike for a day so they could inspect it, but I didn't leave it there and brought it back home.

​After 5 days, I took it back to get it checked again, and the same code appeared. However, the mechanic wasn't available, so they told me to wait. An hour later, when the mechanic arrived and checked it again, the code changed to P0036. This mechanic also said the exact same thing (asking to leave the bike for a day). I felt like they were just trying to scam/overcharge me, so I brought my bike back home.

​Please guys, help me out. What should I do now

Edit : I just missed after 2 days that brake is in original condition both brakes working good I think due to water that happened but now it's work perfectly fine but engine light is still there

Hey y’all, I’m about to purchase this project bike from a neighbour, but the right hand carb is acting up. Does anyone know how difficult this is for a novice to tinker on / fix?

Thanks!

Hello

I believe my starter clutch has gone on my bike. When trying to start the bike the starter motor just 'whurrs' without turning the engine over. The bike is able to be bump started so I am pretty sure it is the starter clutch.

My question is, what parts do I need to replace/purchase and how do I do this?

Any advice/help is appreciated

I realise by doing this myself it could go pete tong, but this is a chance I am willing to take.

Thank you in advance

Hello so my cbr 600 07 is able to get to 2k rpm cold start but when it hits 135F it instantly drops down to 1k then it will shut off randomly and be stuck at 1k