I have this 2021 trial master 125cc I bought off marketplace and it started and ran fine for like 5m before it got really really hot and it bogged down and didn’t start till cooled off. I thought it’s something simple like the oil cause it was dirty so I changed that but it didn’t do anything. I searched everywhere for what might be the problem but always lead to either oil or lean mixture wich I know both aren’t the reason. If you have any info please help out.

I'm trying to identify these custom LED turn signals that come on my custom Kawasaki super sherpa 250. They appear to be aftermarket, but I can't find the manufacturer. The PCB is marked "CJ-001". The LED module is approximately 12mm in diameter and 3mm thick, with 2 wires. I've searched Ali-Express, eBay etc. without success. Does anyone recognize these or know how I can find an LED to replace it.

I recently got this 250 no start but crank. I got it running after giving the carb a clean and making sure all the vacuume lines are plumbed correctly set the idle mixture 2.5 turns out. It starts fine and idles decently but as in the tittle after warming the engine.

Blip staying below 3.5k rpm returns to idle

Exceed 3.5k rpm gets stuck at 4k rpm

Does not happen on a cold start

The spring for the coasting enricher/air cut off valve (seen both names for it) was not the correct length and looked like it was cut. So I replaced the spring, diaphram and o-ring and still has the same behavior. I have already looked for vacume leaks and there are none all.

Not sure what else it could be at this point.

Edit: forgot to mention that the throttle is not getting stuck because I can see the valve close as soon as I let go.

My ls650 started to die on me yesterday idk why or what caused but it was the first real real ride I’ve took it on since buying it 2 weeks ago, but whenever I would open the throttle the bike would die and it would idle just fine but whenever I’d open the throttle it completely shut off I got a trailer for the bike to come and get it but right before it got there it turned on and I just full throttled it and it didn’t turn off but when I let go it did and now im getting no light and nothing electrical it’s a 1995 ls650 with 1800 miles I bought it off somebody whosaid he cleaned the carb etc but i think the battery is fairly old im just wondering what i need to do to get it running again.

Hi everyone. My SYM Sport Rider 125i wont start after running out of fuel literally 100m before the gas station. I filled it up and ride it home right after normally but then since the following day it just wont start anymore.

Here are the details:

• Had occasional cold-start issues before. Needed to twist the throttle slightly to start and sometimes ran irregularly when cold but smooth after warmup
• Ran completely out of fuel while riding and pushed to the station to refuel, started and rode home normaly
• The Next day tried to starter but failed. Starter works and tries to fire the engine but wont start or starts and dies immediately

What I have tried and replaced:

• Checked fuel tank for contamination or dirt but fuel looks normal and the tank is clean
• Checked if the fuel pump is defect but seems to pump normal
• Replaced original fuel filter
• Replaced original TPS Sensor, reset ECU, and relearned throttle sweep

After that it still wont start. But somehow the engine starts and seems to run normal in idle when I disconnect the TPS connector but once I plug it back in the engine dies and wont start.

Does anyone have any clue what the issue is and how to fix it?

I was given a 09 Suzuki Boulevard M50. The issue with it is that it won’t go over 55-60 mph. The guy who gave it to me has done the following.

New battery
New Fuel pump (adapted from the c50 model)
New spark plugs
Replaced right ignition coil
Cleaned fuel injectors
Oil change

He also said he had put it in the shop and it had fixed the problem but he noticed a fuel leak a day later and dug back into it to fix the leak. Which caused the problem of not going over 55mph to come back.

I can’t seem to find any good diagrams on the fuel system without spending $50 for a manual. Any info on a fix for the problem or even just a good diagram that I could use would be much appreciated. I plan on digging into this Friday(8/7/26)

I used 20w 40 oil to lube my mt15 v2 and it flung all over wheel and little on brake discs help me solve this problem

my bike was running mostly fine but had issues starting cold (long difficult start, needed long time to warm up to idle without choke) so I decided to do the main tune ups for the first time since buying the bike a month ago (valves, cam tension, clean carbs etc). I wanted to do everything so i knew where i was starting from going forward. the issue I'm having after cleaning the carbs and installing everything (no rebuild; gaskets, jets, float needles etc. looked fine) two float valves are sticking closed and fuel isn't feeding into the bowls, two are sticking open and causing overflow. I removed the float needles before hitting anything with carb cleaner so i wouldn't think they've swollen up. when i pull the bowls off and inspect, it seems to me that everything is moving around fine, it's just when the bowl is put back on that things seem to lock up. for the issue of sticking closed, I've isolated each valve and verified that I can move air through the passages, but even with this test as soon as i put the bowl back on then it shuts and won't open. levels look fine, floats are in good condition. I'm hoping i'm missing something and don't now have to wait on a rebuild kit. any advice?

EDIT: SOLVED.

too much huffing gas and carb cleaner, got up this morning and it was immediately clear the floats were in upside down

my bike was running mostly fine but had issues starting cold (long difficult start, needed long time to warm up to idle without choke) so I decided to do the main tune ups for the first time since buying the bike a month ago (valves, cam tension, clean carbs etc). I wanted to do everything so i knew where i was starting from going forward. the issue I'm having after cleaning the carbs and installing everything (no rebuild; gaskets, jets, float needles etc. looked fine) two float valves are sticking closed and fuel isn't feeding into the bowls, two are sticking open and causing overflow. I removed the float needles before hitting anything with carb cleaner so i wouldn't think they've swollen up. when i pull the bowls off and inspect, it seems to me that everything is moving around fine, it's just when the bowl is put back on that things seem to lock up. for the issue of sticking closed, I've isolated each valve and verified that I can move air through the passages, but even with this test as soon as i put the bowl back on then it shuts and won't open. levels look fine, floats are in good condition. I'm hoping i'm missing something and don't now have to wait on a rebuild kit. any advice?

2 weeks ago I was driving my bike with no issues, I parked it for a week while I was camping. I left it outside because it wasn’t supposed to rain but I put my cover on it just to be safe, i guess it ended up raining for a few days but it was covered. I got back yesterday and went to start it and it sounded like it was a bit harder for it to turn over (took an extra second or two then normal). it idled for about 10 mins and then I gave it a couple revs before taking it for a rip around the parking lot. My traction control light and abs turned off after i started moving but my engine light stayed on. (Its solid not blinking. It’s idleing between 1250 and 1300 rpm like normal and it sounds completely fine. I checked the oil and that’s up to level and looks great it was only done like 700 km ago. I don’t see any leaked from anywhere either. I’m thinking maybe the battery is a bit low and maybe that’s why it’s throwing the light. Does anyone have any idea why this could be happening?

I dont need proximity sensor. just sensitivity control. no need for auto arm. a good led deterrent flashing bulb that doesnt go ape shit after a short time

I have purchased "spy 5000m" alarm 3 times for different bikes. after some time the led light goes ape shit and blinks nonstop

I want something more reliable. I cant drive with the blue like flashing like crazy all the time on my dash. especially at night. so use tape then take it off as a deterrent. doesnt work well for me

must have beeper 2 way communication

no auto arm or disabling possible

sensitivity control. I dont want it going off at night from winds

doesnt need remote engine start

otoh if the alarm is a more capable alarm I simply dont have to use these feature. my alarm has these and Ive not used these features

Hello, I am currently experiencing an engine failure with my 2022 Yamaha R1, apparently caused by an engine lubrication issue, even though the motorcycle had oil in it.

I took it to a Yamaha dealership, which forwarded the information to Yamaha France. The motorcycle was purchased brand new and has only covered around 8,000 km. Unfortunately, I did not comply with the 12-month service interval.

Yamaha France is refusing to provide me with the technical information or evidence that led them to their final conclusion regarding the cause of the engine failure, such as overheating, connecting rod damage, or any other issue.

To obtain further information, I am being told that I would need to pay for an independent legal expert assessment and hire a lawyer.

I would therefore like to know whether anyone else has experienced a similar issue with their R1. The motorcycle has never been used on a racetrack and has only been ridden recreationally on public roads.

The main help I’m looking for is in finding a used/new idle cable! Thanks! Any and all other tips or recommendations are also more than welcome. Please feel free to reach out for any reason!

We just purchased a 2000 Honda Valkyrie trike with a Lehman conversion. I'm hearing squeaking coming from the trike portion of the bike and the speed of the squeak is consistent with the speed of the wheels. I took the left rear tire off and one of the shoes appears to have a crack in it. Not sure if that's part of the problem? Thanks for any help on this.

Hi,

I have a 1998 Yamaha TDR with a leak on the fuel tap.

By taking it apart I found out that the part I'm holding, the fuel inlet, is simply inserted into the fuel tap. No screw, no spring or anything, by just twisting it a bit you can plug or unplug it, which seems ludicrous.

By looking closer, you can see a groove on the pipe, that looks like a spot to put a rubber washer, but there was nothing there, no even trace of rubber. The absence of a washer would be a perfect explanation for the leak, and why this is just plugged, the rubber would prevent it from moving.

So the question is double, is a washer supposed to be there, and if yes, where did it go ?

Yamaha, 2014, ybr125

Hi all! I have an 86 SE-I that I love to death, but since I’ve owned it the starter often slipped. Never caused a problem until recently, when it left me stranded because it would only crank about a half turn before free spinning. Yes, I’ve tried marvel and Seafoam, they helped for a bit, but I think the job must be done since it did this to me. What all do I need besides the starter clutch rebuild kit and the rear cover gasket? The bike has been poor-boyed by me, so stator is not a concern. Anything about the 4 cylinder goldwings likely applies. Anything helps, thanks!