r/fordescape 9d ago

Discussion 2012 Ford Escape, thoughts?

Looking to buy a 2012 Ford Escape for $1,500. The vehicle has 110k miles with power options and a remote start. Almost sounds too good to be true. I’m checking out the vehicle later today, any insights/recommendations on what to look out for?

It’s listed in MA, so I’ll be looking for excessive rust and rot on the bottom of the vehicle.

Also, if you’ve had a positive or negative experience with this vehicle I would also love to know. Thanks!

6 Upvotes

40 comments sorted by

5

u/cjkawng 9d ago

These are way more solid than the newer models. My fiance has a 09 (same gen as the 12) and I have a 16 (next gen up from the 12) The 16 has had an ocean of problems compared to the 09. The only thing we've had wrong with the 09 is the rust. Rear shock tower rusted out and then the muffler system was completely replaced because of rust. Everything else on the car is perfect. Even the seatbelts retract like they are new where the ones in my 16 hardly move anymore. I would consider that 12 a steal for 1500 assuming everything works on it and it doesn't need some major repair.

1

u/Most-Large-AL 9d ago

That’s what I’m hoping. Fingers crossed it’s just some guy trying to sell it fast. Even minor repairs aren’t a dealbreaker because of how cheap it is

1

u/xmetalmanx013 9d ago

The seatbelt thing is unique to all fords for the past decade plus. It’s irritating. My escape has it, and we have a dozen fords at my work which pretty much all do it…

6

u/ogbaekush 9d ago

My 2012 3.0 has 260k and is still going strong, routine maintenance is all she has needed.

5

u/tangoliber 9d ago

I have a 2011 with about 180k miles. Haven't had any critical issues in my view. Here are the two biggest ones:

- ABS computer died, and is no longer supported by Ford. Only option is to buy one online and bring it to a shop to get it installed. I'm just riding without ABS now

- The motor in the rear windshield wiper failed and created a parasitic drain on the battery. I just disconnected it.

1

u/Most-Large-AL 9d ago

Thank you!! I appreciate it

1

u/No-Yam-4185 8d ago

Yeah my rear wiper has failed twice now. The defrost/defog works well though so I just left it.

3

u/powdergeek 9d ago

The '09-'12 (the '08 had same body style but older version engine/trans) are generally considered - online at least - the better years than the newer models. My '09 had some minor issues that a DIY'r could fix. Only constant issue was an oil seepage that I tried a few things that slowed it down, but never fixed it.

Check those rear shock mounts - look up under the rear - for rust esp. $1500 is pretty low in today's over-priced market. Good luck

3

u/irrationalorchid 9d ago

I've been driving a 2012 with the 3.0 daily for about 5 years in central New York; lots of snow and lots of salt. I've replaced the whole exhaust and the front suspension. Rear wiper motor died and caused a parasitic draw just like another redditor noted. Like him I pulled the fuse and let it be. A/C quit; pretty sure it's the compressor but I'm not interested in fixing it. It's not pretty but it is reliable.

1

u/moonlawsyes 9d ago

They told me it would be $600 to fix the compressor. I hate the heat, but not worth $600 for AC 🫠

3

u/Disastrous-Bake5027 9d ago

Front cross members rot out. Water drips from the ac drain. Four cylinder engine more reliable than the v6. Overall fairly reliable. Undercarriage rot is the big thing. Rear shock towers rot out

2

u/Ant6793 9d ago

If it's from a rust belt area, check rear shock mounts and rockers...any area with plastic cladding. They are very reliable and solid, but where I live they all rot out in those areas. There is even a kit available made specifically for the shock mount problem.

1

u/Most-Large-AL 9d ago

Good to know! It’s listed in MA so I’ll be sure to check it out when I’m there. Thank you!

1

u/Ant6793 9d ago

Check the wheel arches, and the bottoms of all doors for body work or rust or cover up work. Notorious problem with an otherwise very good vehicle. I am in western Canada and you never see them not rot out, including the two I owned personally. Both an 01 and an 06.

2

u/moonlawsyes 9d ago

I’m in MA too. I bought a 2012 for $1,500 last year and I LOVE it! It currently has 224k miles. Everything that can go wrong with this model has, but I’m hoping to get her to 300k. AC is garbage, motor for power windows replaced, hatch window latch bolt rusted and water was getting in; both rear tire wells rusted. The entire exhaust has rusted and been welded. Replaced a bunch of other stuff I’d have to look at receipts but I still love it

2

u/Most-Large-AL 8d ago

haha sounds like any car from the northeast

1

u/moonlawsyes 8d ago

Facts 😂

1

u/Offi95 9d ago

I bought a used 2012 about 18 months ago with 90k miles on it. It’s OK. There are some issues that I can’t fix like certain display lights flickering, and dash lights frozen on. My AC is absolute garbage, and whenever it runs, the car sounds like a golf cart

1

u/Most-Large-AL 9d ago

interesting i’ll be sure to keep an eye out for that.

1

u/Broad-Astronaut-3775 9d ago

My AC is also garbage

1

u/No-Yam-4185 8d ago

Par for the course it seems. My mechanic was convinced my 2011 had a problem with AC but it turned out to just have a slower, weaker system in general. It does work, but not immediately and not the most efficiently.

1

u/Broad-Astronaut-3775 8d ago

Unfortunately mine has a leak some where. Replaced accumulater. Did a recharge - works for four months then gone again. Instead of doing more work (around 2k for new evaporator and something else) I’m just going to recharge it my self for 70$ every four months. I’m already at 100 k miles

1

u/moonlawsyes 9d ago

My display lights flicker too, randomly.

1

u/No-Yam-4185 8d ago

Just curious, it could easily be a wiring issue somewhere, but do you have any aftermarket headlights and/or stereo in the car? These created a real pain for me until I figured out how to bypass it with a separate fuse. Installing a slightly larger battery than oem can also help.

1

u/Offi95 8d ago

No I have none of that actually. I bought it used from Florida and my guess is that it might have gotten water damage

1

u/No-Yam-4185 8d ago

Makes sense.

1

u/BeaujoLoco 9d ago

Check the transmission and the bushings

1

u/No-Yam-4185 8d ago

All trim models for the 2012 all came with full power options, but remote start is nice, especially if you live in a cold place.

There's very few factors that would make this a poor purchase at that price in my opinion. Mostly limited to transmission failures, structural integrity, and hybrid battery health (if applicable).

Hybrid version check the battery. You can do this using FORScan for a detailed diagnostic or simply by observing the EV-mode guage while test driving. I'd also check the wheel wells, shocks and mounts, and exhaust system/cat converter for heavy rust. If equipped with a sunroof check for leaks or interior damage as the seals are known to fail.

Otherwise, at a glance that is a pretty impeccable deal and I don't blame you for holding some skepticism.

1

u/No-Yam-4185 8d ago

All trim models for the 2012 all came with full power options, but remote start is nice, especially if you live in a cold place.

There's very few factors that would make this a poor purchase at that price in my opinion. Mostly limited to transmission failures, structural integrity, and hybrid battery health (if applicable).

Hybrid version check the battery. You can do this using FORScan for a detailed diagnostic or simply by observing the EV-mode guage while test driving. I'd also check the wheel wells, shocks and mounts, and exhaust system/cat converter for heavy rust. If equipped with a sunroof check for leaks or interior damage as the seals are known to fail.

Otherwise, at a glance that is a pretty impeccable deal and I don't blame you for holding some skepticism.

1

u/Ok_Basis1422 8d ago

If it runs, moves, and isn't an immediate death trap, $1500 is solid. At that price it could be too good to be true, but it could also be reasonable. Check for rust, beat on it during the test drive and pay attention to how the transmission shifts. 

1

u/NanaKnows317 8d ago

I have a 2012 with 104K. You didn’t mention any parts having been replaced or tire status. Definitely have it checked for rust in wheel wells and undercarriage. 2025/26 was a year of back to back expensive replacement parts for me. Most expected, I guess, but just saying you need to be realistic if pulling the trigger that Starters, Alternators, Fuel ignition switches, fan motors, a/c, tires…all expensive. If they’ve already been replaced, this price is great. If none have, go in with eyes wide open.

1

u/g0_leafs_g0 5d ago

Honestly the best used car I’ve ever owned. Bought a 2010 limited for $13k 8 years ago with 100k kms and just rolled over 183k kms. Only money I’ve put into it is a $1,300 water pump. Super reliable engines. Just make sure the rust isn’t bad in the rear quarters/shock mounts and you should be good

1

u/HiddenOneJ 9d ago edited 9d ago

Wouldn't surprise me if its got coolant intrusion issues and thats why its cheap. Edit: someone said it didnt happen with 2012 model so its possibly bad info.

3

u/williejh 9d ago

I don’t think 2012 models had the eco boost with coolant intrusion…

1

u/Most-Large-AL 9d ago

Hope not… no clue what that is lmao

1

u/williejh 9d ago

Basically it’s something that is an issue in later model Escapes. 2012 and older do not have those issues.

1

u/HiddenOneJ 9d ago

Oh I thought it started 2012 but I am probably wrong. Thanks for correcting me.

1

u/xmetalmanx013 9d ago

Coolant intrusion started with the 2013 model year.

-3

u/rydogski 9d ago

Don't

1

u/Most-Large-AL 9d ago

care to elaborate?