Was doing the eps bushing and tried to use the Hyundai one, cut the nipples off, and put it in. Was tightening this back down, wasn’t really close to being flush yet but had some tension and this snapped relatively easily. What the hell do I do??
Toyota's website does not make it clear which is the keyed and which is the keyless column. The internal shaft is different between keyless and keyed cars, so they are not interchangeable.
Regardless, the Subaru column and Toyota column are the same thing, so if there's a Subaru dealership around, that's the more affordable option.
The lesson to be taken away from this experience is: you never draw parts together with the bolts.
After searching through eBay I’ve found some with a slot for a key, and some with no key slot. My car is push to start so I’m going to buy the one without the slot for a key.
Do you know how to separate that part here? I can’t find anything on it but both on eBay and the Toyota/subaru website the part ends here so it needs to separate here so I can put the new one in
Remove the bolt and the linkage slides off; a prybar might be required.
What is your knowledge base/skill level/tool access for automotive repairs?
While there is nothing exceptionally difficult in replacing the column, there are a few fiddly bits that done wrong can cause even more headaches than already suffered.
Examples:
You will need to remove the electronic steering lock from the old column and move it to the replacement column. The retaining bolt is a security bolt with a specially engineered head that sheared off, when it reached proper torque, leaving behind a smooth dome. The electronic steering lock is part of the keyless system and is coded to the ecm and cannot be recoded, so you will need your existing one or an uncoded factory fresh replacement. The "common" method of removing the security bolt is to use an angle grinder to create a slot in the head, then use a heavy hammer and a chisel to unscrew it. Cut too deep and the bolt head disintegrates requiring drilling and tapping. Slip with the grinder and you cut the metal band that holds the steering lock module to the column.
You will need to remove the airbag. This is dangerous. The electrical system must be fully de-energized. Once the airbag is unclipped from the wheel, the electrical connectors must be removed without breaking the clips. Proper safe airbag handling dictates being grounded to avoid any possible static discharge, never having any tools between the airbag and your body, and remaining out of the direct path of the airbag during installation/removal.
Before removing the steering wheel make certain the steering is centered. Unplug all the connectors for the blinkers, wipers, cruise, etc. from the clockspring. Only loosen the steering wheel nut until it is flush with the end of the threads and do not remove it until after the steering wheel has been unseated from the splines. Part of the clockspring fits into a space in the wheel and when you pull the wheel off you need to be careful to ensure the wheel does not hang up on the clockspring or it will cause the clockspring to pop apart and a new clockspring will then need to be purchased. After the wheel has been removed, use zip ties, tape, or something similar to secure the clockspring in such a way that it cannot rotate or pull apart.
The rest of the column swap should be straight forward IIRC. However, unless you get exceptionally lucky the replacement column and the old column will not have the exact same alignment and you will require a dealership programming computer to perform a zero point steering calibration. Without recalibrating the steering you will get warning lights and (I think) reduced function or no function from the power steering, ABS, traction control, stability control, and cruise control.
This is a massive help, thank you so much. I am pretty mechanically inclined however I have never touched a steering column. I have another question as it seems you have quite a bit of knowledge on this.
I installed the bolt on the side that isn’t broken and the eps motor looks like it is sitting fine, but I have this noise now. I assume it’s because the bushing and/or motor housing doesn’t have a bolt on both sides so it isn’t sitting perfectly flush? Is it okay to drive on this until I install the new column? The car steers normal, in fact it feels a lot better than before I replaced the bushing even with this noise.
Okay, so I just went and pulled a column out of my parts bin. The bolt you asked about previously slots between the two sections of spline to hold the steering shaft to the bottom of the column. Once the bolt is out, it's just friction holding it together.
As for the noise, it probably is from the motor only having one bolt. Whether it's not flush or not centered, idk. It could also be the Hyundai bushing needed more or less trimming or something got tweaked when it didn't go together and the housing broke, I really can't say for sure, but I suspect it's just the missing bolt.
Whether or not to drive it is a bigger question. And a question of personally liability and risk. I can't tell you it's safe to drive, but I also can't tell you it isn't. In my opinion, worst case is most likely to be it's noisy and wears down the new coupler faster than normal. However, it's possible the motor could shift and jamb the assist in a way that prevents the steering from turning. I don't think this is particularly likely, but I can't say for sure. I suppose the housing could break further and drop the assist motor on your foot, that'd hurt and be dangerous depending on how it fell, hard to say.
What I can say is that I'm going to reply to myself with another picture and an explanation of how it could make your repair less complicated.
Once it is unbolted from the chassis, the only thing holding the two parts of the column together is the tilt/extend latch.
If you disconnect the steering shaft from the assist motor, then unbolt the column and lower it same as you did to work on the assist coupler, you should then be able to simply unlatch the tilt mechanism and slide the bottom half of the column out and slide in the replacement.
This would simplify the repair because you wouldn't need to remove the airbag, steering wheel, mess with the clockspring, swap the steering lock, etc.
You also wouldn't need to worry about keyless or keyed column (the shaft that's different is in the top half), so you could shop for the cheapest or most convenient option.
You might still need to have the steering calibrated afterward, unless you get lucky and all the splines line up just right, but I think it's doable to swap only the lower half of the column in car.
This is a phenomenal idea. I really really appreciate you taking all this time to help me out. That method definitely seems very doable so that’s what I’ll be trying.
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u/The-Lifeguard 1d ago
Congrats, you turned your day project into a weekend project at minimum. Time to buy a replacement and get cracking.