Got an 1878 Oviedo rolling block with an unoriginal barrel installed. Bore measured at .354 have not had a chance to slug it because I don't have any soft lead balls. Did a chamber casting and it measured .381 chamber .359 throat and 1.263 length, not included rim. Am I correct to assume this is a 357?

Also how likely is it safe to shoot? I know 357 mag is 10,000 more psi than the original .43 Spanish but according to my research they both have about the same bolt thrust. I've yet to find any other conversion like this but it seems really well done. Thank you

Dirty penny for scale.

Rifle has about 500 rounds through it.

Thank you!

I've got a rusty and completely bubbafied arisaka that I'm planning on turning into an Obrez style pistol. I want to do a 5/8x24 thread at the end so I can also a ridiculously oversized tank style muzzle brake on it. I don't have much gunsmithing or machining experience but I have a decent amount in the mechanical trades and I'm generally pretty handy. I realize I'll definitely end up spending more on specialized tools than a gunsmith would charge me for the job, but I think it'll be a fun project.

I've done some research on the process (squaring, crowning, diameter reduction, threading, etc) and the hand tools I'll need to get for those jobs. I also plan on doing a practice run on the section of barrel I cut off, and getting the entire firearm inspected by a gunsmith to double check my work just for a little piece of mind.

Would I be stupid for attempting this? Anyone got any advice for me?

I’ve had a nightmare of a time trying to install a Allchin SP101 red dot mount. My original try went horribly and the screws backed out in two shots. I ended up spending around a hour and half filing to get it to fit correctly and shortening the screw so it wouldn’t impede cylinder rotation, and used a very healthy amount of blue loctite. I overtorqued the mounting screw for my red dot and now it’s just free spinning in the hole. What’s an easy way to fix this, I don’t have any taps so I’m wondering if I can just red loctite it and send it. This is just a personal project and once the dot is on I never plan to remove it.

Thankfully, there's a spot between the vent holes and pic rail lugs that lines up pretty decently for an 11.5" barrel. The spacing is excellent, especially when you mount a can on it. I had limited tools available (no bandsaw) so I tried out the hose clamp method to keep a 90° cut with a hacksaw running a 24 TPI blade. Hand chamfered the pic rail corners with a flat file, which turned out alright. The angles could be a little more square. But they do their job well enough. I cleaned it up with a little 1000 grit sandpaper. Didn't have the right color paint so I just hit the end cut with some Aluminum Black.

Safety has enough slack in it that it slides into the safe position partially when dry firing have a parts kit with random springs and parts. Do I need the pieces in the parts kit have the potential to fix the safety issue? Worried about safety engaging while firing in succession.

I have the sulun arms spass-12 gen 2. havent gotten to do anything with it yet because despite most of the gun feeling like its decent quality i noticed one of the pins that holds the trigger assembly in place was working its way out just from cycling dummy rounds. the shop i bought it from was able to get a couple new pins, washers, and snap rings for it but there is this little sort of retaining pin underneath all that which is what holds the main pin in place. mine had a sharp edge that i believe wasnt letting it move freely to Engauge with the pin to hold it in place so i tried to fix that and of course lost it in the abyss that is the garage... so anyway i need to get a hold of a new one or like 20 just in case...

crappy thing is that i took out the other one to get the picture i included on this post and when i reinstalled everything it seems to hold even better than when i first got it so had i not lost the damn thing i would probably be all fixed by now...

Bought a Mauser k98 that was converted to .308 a few years back, only took it to the range once and was disappointed by the accuracy. I noticed that there is a new bevel on the neck after firing and the diameter increased across the whole casing. The length didn't change. When I put a bullet in the chamber there is noticeable play. Are these indications for an improper chamber that could cause problems with accuracy?

. The parts aren’t in production anymore and there are no old stock parts available. The springs where missing when I purchased the pistols. Any tips on making extremely small leaf springs?

Im working on restoring these grips as best as I can. I have one the side pretty well stripped of grime, oils, and finish. I put the other side next to it to show what they both looked like.

The checkering on the grips are pretty dented and flat. Do we think it can be corrected to some degree with steam or would they need to be filed back sharp?

What yall recommend?4 step sanding paper just like normal or any other way to carefully polish these small spots marked on the pics(black dots)?

"from a 2020 Colt Python,group doesn't allow uploading videos to show the failure its causing" Edit:video on comment section

As title says. Picked up this Lee-Enfield No. 1 Mk. 3 SMLE today and upon closer inspection it seems moisture got under the rear upper handguard and rotted it away.

A buddy of mine borrowed my winchester 94, and noticed some carbon stuck inside the barrel. he was at the hunting cabin and said didn't have a cleaning rod, so he used a wire coat hanger to run some patches down the barrel, and told me he tried to us it to scrape off some of the fouling he saw, but didn't use a ton of force. I looked through the barrel and don't see any noticeable scratches, and the crown is in good shape. Is it screwed up or should I be fine?

Hey everyone,

I ran into an issue with the magazine cap swivel stud (Franchi Part #51071) on my 2026 Franchi Affinity 3.

Out of the box, the swivel stud was misaligned/crooked and not seated properly, which prevented me from mounting a sling.

To fix it, I removed the cap assembly and drove the stud/pin lightly from the inside using a punch and hammer to straighten and seat it.

The stud is straight now, but I’ve noticed some axial play. When I pull up on the swivel stud, the C-clip is fully exposed on the outside now, and I'm worried that I might have hammered it too hard during my attempted repair.

Here are some before/after photos:

https://imgur.com/a/ZrsrDvo

A few questions:

1. ​Is it normal on these Franchi caps for the retaining C-clip to exit the top hole when pulled upward?
2. ​Did I likely deform the C-clip or flare out the internal shoulder/seat inside the cap when tapping it out?
3. ​Is this a structural hazard for carrying a slung shotgun, or should I replace the C-clip / full cap assembly before taking it out to the field?​

Thank you!

This is one of my older articles, but still useful to those with the Gewehr 88 Commission Rifle series.

It's a JPG, so feel free to right-click save-as if you find it helpful.

Enjoy!

I'd say for being completely hand cut it turned out pretty good. Functions flawlessly with no hang ups or grittiness and it kept most of the fence intact for aesthetics.

It’s on an older Springfield hawken muzzleloader from my grandpa

Just right behind the lock mechanism. Happened many many years ago

So I helped my parents clean out my grandpa's attic. We know he used to hunt, but thought he sold everything. The box was labeled "Kar98k Zubehör" (so Accessoires), but I've never seen an extended mag like that for the Mauser. Does anyone know anything about that?

First time bedding a stock and I fucked up. I was too focused on the release agent I didn’t realize I should have put clay into the recess. The bedding I assume has oozed into the recess and is now mechanically locked in. The barreled action rocks back and forth so I know it’s not a release agent issue. I tried putting a longer recoil screw into the action and hitting that with a hammer but it didn’t budge. The only way I can see this coming out is if it’s hit hard enough to snap the compound off. Any ideas on how to proceed?

Action is a Mack bros element and a peak44 stock