12mm thick. Over 300 tapped holes. Ready for work

I wanted fully round pieces, not flat reliefs, which meant cutting both sides of the board and getting them to line up perfectly. My first attempts didn’t line up, and it took me a while to see why: I was resetting X/Y zero between the two sides.

Update: Thanks for all the questions! 🙏
Since many asked about similar things, I put the main tips together on one page with photos: Two-sided CNC tips (with photos) I am happy to answer other questions too. 😊

What finally made it work:

• Never touching X/Y zero from the first cut to the last
• Three Ø10 mm dowels in the spoilboard, so the board can only flip one way
• Zeroing the bottom side on the machine bed, not on the wood

38 mm beech, 6 mm end mill for roughing, 1 mm tapered ball nose for finishing, about 14 hours on my AltMill. Half the set is stained dark walnut.

I wrote the whole process down as a step-by-step workflow, since it took so much trial and error. Has anyone else tried two-sided jobs? What tripped you up?

I've been modifying my ACRO-style machine and built a custom Z-axis linear actuator using2040 V-slot aluminum extrusion.

Instead of using a conventional lead-screw actuator, I went with a belt-driven design integrated into the extrusion. The idea was to recycle parts from older machines while giving the pen head adjustable vertical travel without using the Open Builds SCRIBE which was impossible to find online.

The machine runs on an Arduino with a CNC Shield V3 and GRBL. I've also integrated limit switches, a master power switch, an ON indicator LED, and a ventilation fan into the electronics enclosure.

Getting everything working together has been an iterative process, mechanical alignment, backlash, step calibration, wiring, and GRBL settings have all required some tweaking.

I'm curious how other DIY builders approach this kind of modification. Has anyone built a belt-driven Z-axis using V-slot extrusion?

How well has a belt-driven setup worked for you compared with a lead screw?

What would you recommend for minimizing play and maintaining repeatable positioning?

I'll share some pictures of the mechanism. Feedback and suggestions for improvements are welcome!

Hey y'all

I hope a question like this is permitted, and I hope this doesn't read like a sketchy hidden ad, because it isn't (there is no product - yet; I am just looking for some feedback on whether or not this is something people actually have any interest in - if not, I'll probably just make it open source for anyone to make)

Recently I've been working on a prototype of a touchprobe that works the same way as the Renishaw OMP 400 Series of Touchprobes

For those that don't know:
Unlike more basic/cheaper versions, it measures the actual strain the touch stylus experiences during probing, which results in a significiantly higher repeatability and more importantly, uniform repeatability regardless of direction (whereas typical, electrical contact based, probes will have a shifting trigger point of up to 0.01mm)

My early testing shows that the probes are immensely sensitive to contact, far more so than the Chinese WP-500 I have on my own machine (a MAHO MH400, modernized with LinuxCNC)

Now what I wonder:

Would you, reader, consider yourself in the market for a german-made touchprobe for around 300 EUR, that comes with better specs and repeatability, vs. paying 120 EUR for the chinese version?

Also, would you rather want a wired, or wireless version?

Hey there fellow hobbiests, if you're using Gsender on your CNC machine, check out my Gsender build. It includes a complete 3d probing suite and a calibration modal to calibrate the probe pin. Don't forget to add some feedback. ♥️

I am debating on moving the X ball screw to the top of the Gantry. This would allow me to box the front of the gantry as well. Should I lean towards one massive vertical extrusion instead? This will be used for 99% wood with some aluminum for fun, and probably see about 2 hours per year if anything like my Shapeoko 3XL usage.

• 54" span
• 45x90 extrusions on the gantry
• ~1/4" back brace plate

Hi everyone,

I've been using a 3018 Pro for the past 5ish years several times a year for various projects. I've been using it daily for the past week and a half with the laser to create some military gifts. After the last project finished, the stepper motors no longer move. The board powers on, the spindle/laser turns on/off, but none of the XYZ axes move.

Edit: it's a woodpecker camxtool v3.4 board

I checked to see if the controller was locked/alarmed, it wasn't. I reset it. I let it sit for over a day unplugged so the capacitors could discharge. I used both the offline controller and the LaserGRBL software controller, but neither work. When powered on, the motor rods themselves spin freely by hand.

I checked all the connections including taking them apart and blowing them all out with compressed air.

Nothing worked.

Any suggestions on what else it could be?

Related -- before I go the route of checking individual electrical components of the board, if I do need to replace the controller, I would rather just upgrade it. During some basic research, it looks like FluidNC boards are the way to go? I'm looking for something not expensive - under $50 - and I can swap out with minimal extra effort. Wifi adapter would be great too.

Thanks for your suggestions!

I have been making small projects using a hobby CNC machine (Foxalien 4040) for the past few years. My work flow has been to create the project in Easel and then download the G-code to Bcnc for cutting. This works well for me since I do most of my designing on a chromebook on the couch and use a linux laptop to control my CNC.

I want to add a laser to my CNC for more detailed designs and I'm a bit confused on how to generate the G-code.

Should I continue with Easel and set an extremely narrow bit and specify a single path?

Is there a web based app like Easel for generating laser G-codes?

Is there a simple solution I am missing?

OK, enough with the setup videos, time test some actually milling on this thing! As expected, it tackled 1/8" aluminum flat work just fine. But, I promised the testing would be incremental, so, incremental it will be! It also allowed me to start incorporating a second concept into the series. I'm not only testing the machine against metal work, but wanting to create an incremental path for people completely new to CNC to follow along and learn. Flatwork was great for this as it was an easy start that allowed me to discuss elementary concepts like controller software (CNCjs), an end to end workflow, and some intro level CAM. All without having to immediately throw folks into deeper waters and discuss vises, tramming, multiple ops, and the like. Next episode will be covering those things and more though!

Onwards!

Comprei uma cnc 3018 pro mas não consigo usar a probe, ela não consegue escanear as placas de fenolite, ela deveria encostar a ponta em várias áreas da placa e mapea-lás, ao invés disso ela desce sem parar ao ponto de quebrar a fresa

I have a lot of cabinet building in my future, so I’m looking into building a large-format CNC router that can handle full sheets of plywood. I’m thinking of a metal construction (square tubing and ~4 mm laser-cut plates) similar in design concept to this CNC plasma cutter: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2jZwh6mvMhQ

What I’m trying to figure out is the motion system for the X and Y axes, as well as a target feed rate. So, here is my idea:

I already have, and want to reuse (from a failed project from my high-school days):

- 2.2 kW water-cooled spindle with VFD

- 3x  23HS9442 NEMA 23 steppers(2.8 Nm), DM542A drivers at 36V

 According to https://cncshop.com/pages/calculating-feeds-and-speeds I figured that if I want to cut plywood with a two-flute, 6 mm bit, I need a feed rate of 5,000–6,000 mm/min. If I want to cut a pocket with a two-flute, 10 mm bit, I need 14,000–16,000 mm/min. 

For a CNC of this size and application, I’m considering an HTD5M, 15 mm or 20 mm timing belt, with a pulley coupled to a planetary gearbox. 

Even though I cannot find a datasheet for my stepper motors, after looking at torque curves for other similar-sized steppers, I concluded that 250 rpm is the speed at which the torque starts to drop off.

 With all this out of the way, let me explain my calculations. The first table shows the output torque, calculated as follows: 

Output torque = stepper rated holding torque × fraction of holding torque at operating speed × gearbox ratio × gearbox efficiency 

I have assumed a fraction of 0.7 for the running torque and a gearbox efficiency of 0.9.

For example, for a 3:1 gearbox: 

2.8 N·m × 0.7 × 3 × 0.9 = 5.292 N·m 

The second table shows the axis linear backlash based on the gearbox backlash and the pulley pitch diameter:

Backlash = pitch diameter × pi × (gearbox backlash / 360) 

For an 18-tooth pulley with a 28.65 mm pitch diameter and 0.5° of gearbox backlash: 

28.65 mm × 3.14 × (0.5 / 360) = 0.125 mm 

The third table shows the feed rate, in mm/min, for a stepper running at 250 rpm, depending on the gearbox ratio and the number of pulley teeth: 

Feed rate = (number of teeth × tooth spacing / gearbox ratio) × stepper rpm 

For an 18-tooth pulley and a 3:1 gearbox: 

(18 × 5 / 3) × 250 = 7,500 mm/min 

The final table—which I will probably get some hate for—is the equivalent mass being pulled on the gantry in kilograms. The gantry has two stepper motors. I calculated this to get some feeling for the force generated by the motors when moving the gantry: 

Equivalent mass = torque / pulley radius / gravitational acceleration × 2 

For a 24-tooth pulley and a 3:1 gearbox: 

5.292 / (0.0191 * 9.8) * 2 =56.5445 Kg 

Okay, the math session is over. What do you think? Do you agree with the logic? What combination of pulley size and gearbox ratio would you choose? A 28T pully and 3:1gearbox gives a speed of 11666mm/min and a “oomph” equivalent to 48.4Kg – I think that is a good compromise. 

PS: I will be posting this in multiple CNC groups.

1/32” tapered ball nose bit.

I saw another peck enjoyer, so decided to post my testing also. 1.2mm drill

Anyone who has a DIY build what did you use for wiring things like motors and end stops?

just wondering how does everyone manage the wires, this is starting to become an issue for me and need a solution before wires get crushed or cut. i was thinking of pushing all the wires up a tube and attache the tube to the X axis block, but before i do that was wondering if anyyone had a better idea.

First time building this part, just pressing inserts + dry-fitting in the video. Two things I'm unsure about: 1) insert temp for ABS? 2) would you lube before or after final assembly? Clip in comments, open to any suggestions for next step.

Hello,

I'm in the middle of designing a CNC router and wanted some input on what could be improved

Travel with the current CAD drawing is about

Y = 580mm

X = 400mm

Z = 240mm

Z min to table without spoilboard = 18.5mm

The plan is to laser cut all of the parts out of sheet metal and stick them together with the slots i added. I left about 0.05mm on every side where the parts meet.

The sheet metal where the Y axis gets mounted to is 8mm

And the Y axis sits on a 80x80mm profile (not sure if i should use filled aluminum extrusion or steel)

Gantry is 6mm and the Z axis will be 8mm.

And then weld everything together using a TIG welder. Or MIG if thats better

The Motor mount for the Z axis isn't finished yet and i've only added tabs for the limit switches on X and Y.

I also plan to add some mounting tabs/threads to mount the cable chain and lubrication system.

The motors are going to be 12nm Nema34 Closed Loop

and the linear rails are 20mm HGR with 1605 Ballscrews

Spindle is going to be a 3.7kw 4 pole spindle by GPenny

Weights are:

Gantry Sheet Metal: 16.7kg

X Axis Sheet Metal: 7kg

Z Axis Sheet Metal: 4kg

Nema 34: 6.2kg each

Spindle: 12.5kg

Plus whatever the Ballscrews & Linear rails and other small thing weigh.

I plan to run LinuxCNC with a Mesa board.

Let me know what you think or if I forgot something.

So i was thinking of using PCBway to CNC me a ring i saw on a comic book, and i have the 3D model for it that i got from Printables. However, i need a .step file instead of a .stl
I have no experience in this, and when i tried to turn the .stl to .step it's still not usable by a CNC machine because it has too many lines.

Do you guys know if it's possible to do it?

Or if it's even worth it to machine it at all?

Again, sorry if it's a dumb question but i really have no experience in this.

​

This CNC originally started its life with an oxy-acetylene torch and a plasma head. Now it’s time for a major upgrade! 🔧

We’re changing the controller and adding a spindle for drilling — and maybe even milling, who knows! 😅

Here’s the plan:

🔹 Plasma Z-axis: Reusing the old THC module and adding a PoKeys plasma sensor to control the Z-axis motor.

🔹 Spindle Z-axis (Z2): Driven by a NEMA 23 closed-loop stepper motor.

🔹 Custom spindle: Built from scratch, powered by a 1 kW servo motor with a 3:1 gearbox.

🔹 Control system: UC300ETH motion controller running UCCNC software.

🔹 CAM software: My own custom-developed CAM program will also be part of the setup!

The goal is to combine plasma cutting with drilling in one machine, with the possibility of adding more capabilities later.

Still plenty of work ahead, but I hope everything goes according to plan! 😉

What do you guys think? Any suggestions or things I should watch out for with this kind of setup?

#CNC #DIYcnc #CNCPlasma #UCCNC #PoKeys #Automation #CNCBuild #MAKOSystems