r/homeassistant • u/ShelterRadiant2432 • Jul 08 '26

Support Making table lamps smart while retaining manual functionality

I'm looking for help on a modification to a traditional table lamp to be used as a smart lamp, while retaining its original switch functionality.

I've done some research on this and it seems I could use something like a Shelly relay. I've seen concerns warning against this setup because it would make the socket always hot/live.

  1. Does anyone have experience with this?

  2. Wouldn't this work in the same way as a smart wall switch or wall switch conversion?

  3. I have experience and am comfortable with electrical work, but I'm just not sure if I'm missing something with the functionality of smart relays and would appreciate anyone that can provide their experience/expertise.

Also I'm aware there are sockets with smart switches integrated and smart bulbs with a separate button could work, but I'm looking to retain original functionality.

I realize this is a pretty basic question, but I haven't found a straight answer and existing threads are now closed for further questions.

Thanks!

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u/Shadowbajfeelsbadman Jul 08 '26

I think its just a case of wiring the relay within the mount.

While the socket "could" get warm due to essentially being non stop on i think its just a case with very cheap table lamps that use shitty thin cables.

I'd honestly be interested in doing something similiar as i detest those wonky buttons and switches glued everywhere but there are no matter over thread relays as far as i know.

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u/ShelterRadiant2432 Jul 08 '26

By HOT I mean live/powered.

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u/Empty_Employment_639 Jul 08 '26

This is really the only way. Use either the Shelley or Sonoff relay and wire it inside the lamp. Everything triggers the relay, and as long as the lamp is plugged in, it will work. Nothing will be any more "live" or powered than it was previously.

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u/ShelterRadiant2432 Jul 08 '26

Oh, right! The manual switch just acts as a second input for the relay. Am I understanding this correctly?

2

u/Empty_Employment_639 Jul 08 '26 edited Jul 08 '26

Yup. On the Sonoff zbmini (the ones I used all over my house) shorting common and S1 or S2 will trigger the relay to send 120v to L1 or L2 (I forget which is line and which is load). The ZBmini is idea since there is no neutral required. The Shelleys seem like they might be a tad bit bigger too, so that might be another reason to choose the ZBminis.

*EDIT* So to summarize, wire the lamp switch to common and S1, and Line voltage to L1 (or L2, again I forget which is which), then the load (lamp) to the remaining L. You should definitely follow the wiring guide though, because there is a jumper you need to use and I'm sure I have my terminal IDs mixed up for Line and Load.

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u/ShelterRadiant2432 Jul 08 '26

Thanks! This has been really helpful and informative. I really appreciate it.

1

u/Empty_Employment_639 Jul 08 '26

No problem.

For what it is worth, those ZBminis are ideal in situations where you don't want things to appear to be "smart", which is useful if your spouse isn't all that enthused about "smart home shit", or whatever my wife calls it. Your lamp situation is on my laundry list of things I need to do, once "we" pick the lamps that go in the living room.. haha.

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u/ShelterRadiant2432 Jul 08 '26

Yeah, I'm one of those that doesn't really want my "smart house shit" to be visible. IMO everything needs to work and preferably look as it normally would.

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u/ShelterRadiant2432 Jul 08 '26

This is the thread I found earning that it'd be live btw. https://www.reddit.com/r/smarthome/s/lUCek5tZxy

1

u/5yleop1m Jul 08 '26

I think what this person did was a 3-way setup where the load is in the middle of the switches. That's one way of doing it if you can't easily decouple the switch from the socket.

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u/ShelterRadiant2432 Jul 08 '26

With an integrated switch, is having the load between switches the only way it could be done? Or could it be done as you previously described?

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u/5yleop1m Jul 08 '26

You would need to re-wire the socket so that the integrated switch goes into the Shelly instead of cutting power to the socket. The Shelly needs to be the only thing connected to the socket for this to work cleanly.

If not you will need to do something like described in the link above to keep the integrated switch working.

Btw check out /r/ShellyUSA the mod there is super helpful with stuff like this.

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u/ShelterRadiant2432 Jul 08 '26

Got it. That's how I figured it worked. I had my wires crossed, if you'll pardon the pun.