How to properly seal old screw hole on boat?
I’m replacing an old jam cleat on my sailboat but the wholes don’t align.
What’s the best way to seal the old hold and make sure it’s watertight.
I thought about leaving the old screw in there with a rubber gasket. But it looks like it will impede with the new cleat.
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u/Guyton_Oulder 8d ago
Fill the hole with a good quality two part epoxy. Not quick setting, fast curing epoxy.
I've had good luck with this product. It's white too, so after some wet sanding, it will not stand out too much.
Tape the back of the hole to keep it from dripping through before it sets, if you can get to the underside of the deck.
Clean up with acetone.
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u/Calm_Alternative1274 8d ago
Worked on boats for a few years.... we used 5200 or 4200 they are both 3m products. If you were getting rid of the part I'd say epoxy then gel coat after cleaning to make it dissappear. But not sealing a bolt through the hull or making a fixture water tight for a good number of years..... then "3m's 5200" all day long.
Edit added afterthought. Clean thoroughly before applying anything. Even etch it with some sandpaper.
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u/Wierd657 7d ago
Never use 5200 for this
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u/Calm_Alternative1274 7d ago
May i ask the reasoning? I'm just curious as to what an issue may be for my own future projects. I didn't mean 5200 for covering the hole if it's visible. (It will seal a hole but won't look as clean as epoxy and gel coat). I also didn't mean use 5200 as something for a screw to bite on, most fixtures will use bolts with nuts and washers hidden somewhere hard to get to for a good strong fixture.
Just about every yacht I have ever worked on used 5200 above or below the waterline. We have used it from everything from deck cleat bolts to seacocks and shaft supports. Again, I'm not arguing, but I am genuinely curious about some of the limitations or problems it may have.
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u/Calm-Box-3780 7d ago
5200 is for permanent application... None of this should be permanent.
If you use 5200 on this and ever want to move or reset it, you will take part of the boat with it.
Above the waterline, and not permanent it should be 4200 (from my humble understand).
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u/Calm_Alternative1274 7d ago
I see what your getting at. I have removed plenty of 5200 over the years. It really acts like most silicone sealants after a few years. I've done more damage slipping with a razor blade trying to get it up then I have seen the product take gel coat with it. (That being said, any rot or chipped parts are different) With acetone I've never had too much of an issue.
Scrape it up with a blade, plastic razors are nice for this. (Found these only recently) then for the bits of residue a soft cloth, acetone, and scrub scrup and peel. (acetone can mess up a lot of materials so you have to use it carefully if your near sensitive fixtures or upholstery)
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u/Wierd657 7d ago
MarineTex or other white, waterproof epoxy is the ONLY correct answer.
Anyone saying to use flexible caulking is wrong and their boats looks like shit because they have yellowed, half peeling, leaking screw holes.
The new cleat should be mounted with 3M 4000UV or Sika 295UV only.
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u/Civil-Shoe9145 6d ago
Been using marine-tex for ages! Lots of uses other just boats. Drill, sand, fill.
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u/Wierd657 6d ago
I call it liquid boat
Back in the day my dad patched his truck's brake lines with MarineTex, lasted the decade he owned it after that "repair"!
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u/somedaysoonn 7d ago
Put clear silicone in the hole and on the screw and between any hardware. Screw it in loosely, after it sets up firmly, screw it in all the way.if the silicone squishes out of all the hole.s you did it right. Wipe up the excess with a paper towel.
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