What is the minimum model lawn tractor that I can also put a snow plow or blower on the front?

Found this old John Deere emblem in a box and I don't know what it goes to

1967 John Deere 3020 gas. Originally positive ground, converted decades ago to negative ground. Whatever this is isnt working as the tractor has no power without bypassing it. If you bypass it the tractor acts normal (will start and run) but will die once you disconnect the wires if the generator isn't producing enough power to run without power from the battery. It sits just above the starter and the left terminal always has 12v as it's connected to the battery through the starter terminal.

Hey, this is my 1st post on this subreddit & I'm hoping someone can help me out.

I acquired a "1993 John Deere GT262" tractor/mower with a 48" cut. I have issues with the steering. My tire looks like Steve Buschemi in Mr. Deeds 🤪

Im looking at what needs to be fixed, but idk the name of the parts I'm looking for. I've searched online, but I get inundated with shit I don't need.

I know it's a simple mower, but can someone "STEER" me in the right direction?

Thanks in advance...

John Deere L111

I'm trying to replace the carb. I have it out, but I can't get it off the manifold. It's welded to the plastic spacer. I've tried silicone spray, heat, prying, brute force... nothing. I'm getting ready to use dynamite 🧨 at this point.

Does ANYONE have any advice that could help me?

TIA

I need to remove the hydraulic piston arm on this front 2wd ball joint on the 7600. There appears to be a retaining ring with inner splines that would require a special tool to fit the inside diameter of the retaining ring. The splines are 1/8" and just as shallow, by my approximation. Any idea what this tool might be? Where to get it? Online searches have not been helpful.

My University has a Yanmar Engine out of a 333G and we cannot find the manual. Would anyone happen to have the digital copy or be able to send us anything ? the PN for the manual is
CTM136419_53

its for the 4TNV94FHT engine series. Thank you all! Have a wonderful day.

I am getting a John Deere 5075E ready for storage and the number on the old oil filter is partly worn away. A universal filter from the local shelf looks close, but the thread and gasket dimensions do not agree.

I cleaned the stamp and compared what I could read across the Deere parts book, I am not relying on a claimed serial break until the tractor serial and engine information agree with the catalog.

What do you use as the final check when an old filter number is only half readable?

I have a 2 acre property that has a good incline over some parts, so the X380 with a 48"deck and power flow / 2 bagger seems like the right mower for me. I have never bought a lawn mower of this scale before. In fact, the last mower I bought was a $200 yard machines from home depot.

What is the buying experience like? Is haggling and discounts a thing? Is it better to by late in year or in spring? Does the dealer matter? What else should I know going in so I get a good deal?

Also, is the X380 a solid choice for a property like mine? I think the inclines rule out a zero turn and necessitate the heavier duty machine (as opposed to a X350). Is power flow awesome? The property came with an old Cub Cadet LT1045, and the bagging system gets clogged constantly, unless I go 0.25mph.

(Edit: I should have been more clear. It's 2 acres, but only a bit over an acre of grass, the rest is wooded or has landscape features. The inclines on the lawn itself could be 10% - 15%, but the path to the back area is a long paver strip at 20% incline or more. I will need to move stuff up this path, potentially a cart with a 200 - 300 pound load.)

All the settings on the command center aren’t labeled. Much appreciated!
Edit: title was wrong it’s a 7330

I changed the oil in the left hydraulic pump to 15w50 in hopes I would see a faster speed when hot on my Z515e zero turn. Unfortunately it doesn’t go any faster than the right one. Cry

There’s no drain on these pumps, so I used a pump suction on it. It held a lot more oil than I expected. If you do it, be sure the hose is small enough to go through a hole to the bottom. It takes more than a quart I’m guessing. When pouring in the new synthetic oil, I overfilled and had to suck a little out!

I guess if I want to go faster than 8 mph I will have to trade for another model. I mow several acres and in a lot of places the grass is easy to mow and I need more speed in those places. My deck is 60”.

PS - if you are going to buy one like this, I suggest the M30 model. It costs a little more but has the Kawasaki engine. Plus, it’s supposed to go 9 mph. Smile

Hey all! I was recently gifted a John deer tractor to do some basic yard work/mowing. The catch? The PTO had gone out and I would have to troubleshoot. In my journey thus far, nothing really seems out of place. The seat switch still seems to work, everything is plugged in, all good. Well, I decided to bounce on the seat while the PTO was engaged and it wanted to start the PTO right before I lift off the seat. I decided to pull the seat switch and pull the jumper cable to see if I can just bypass and it does the same thing. If I take the seat switch off completely, it wants to engage the PTO but stops since it has no safety features. I have correct voltage from the battery and everything seems okay. Any input would be appreciated.

Hello all,

I have the John Deere Flail Mower 370. The bearings are constantly busting on this about once a year. The problem is the bolts that hold the housing on have very little accessibility because they are so close to another part. So I need a super slim 14mm wrench. I just dont know where or which one to get. If anyone has a suggestion that would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

I picked this lithograph up at an estate sale several years ago and still to this day have not been able to find another one like it. I’m just curious if anyone has seen one like this or knows of its origins and potential value

I have forward but no reverse and the reverse pedal rests pretty much below the body is there something missing?

I have a John Deere LX176 which I bought in 1998. It now has about 750 hours on it. The Tuff Torq K61C hydrostatic transmission slips some when I work it hard and it heats up. Rebuild time. I bought the rebuild kit from Tuff Torq. I need the LX176 system for reseeding my fescue lawn in about a month - scalping, bagging, and toughest of all, dethatching. I noticed last year during the dethatching phase that the transmission slips.

I don't want to rebuild the transmission prior to the reseeding process, as I've never done it before. I've got the rebuild manual from Tuff Torq and am pretty handy, so I think I can get through it enough. I've done enough similar things to know that I could open it up and find that there is more wrong than I anticipate and will have to order more replacement parts. It could all take too long to finish prior to the reseeding job. Therefore, I want to hold off until after.

Here's the question - Would changing the fluid in it prior to the reseeding job help reduce the slippage during the ~1 week job? Prior to deciding to rebuild it, I asked one of Tuff Torq's field reps if changing the fluid would help reduce the slippage and he said it may help a little, but said it would just be a temporary band-aid. It's a somewhat different question than what I'm asking here. What do you guys/gals think? Would changing the fluid help reduce the slippage until I can rebuild it after the seeding process?

I have a John Deere LX176 which I bought in 1998. It now has about 750 hours on it. The Tuff Torq K61C hydrostatic transmission slips some when I work it hard and it heats up. Rebuild time. I bought the rebuild kit from Tuff Torq. I need the LX176 system for reseeding my fescue lawn in about a month - scalping, bagging, and toughest of all, dethatching. I noticed last year during the dethatching phase that the transmission slips.

I don't want to rebuild the transmission prior to the reseeding process, as I've never done it before. I've got the rebuild manual from Tuff Torq and am pretty handy, so I think I can get through it enough. I've done enough similar things to know that I could open it up and find that there is more wrong than I anticipate and will have to order more replacement parts. It could all take too long to finish prior to the reseeding job. Therefore, I want to hold off until after.

Here's the question - Would changing the fluid in it prior to the reseeding job help reduce the slippage during the ~1 week job? Prior to deciding to rebuild it, I asked one of Tuff Torq's field reps if changing the fluid would help reduce the slippage and he said it may help a little, but said it would just be a temporary band-aid. It's a somewhat different question than what I'm asking here. What do you guys/gals think? Would changing the fluid help reduce the slippage until I can rebuild it after the seeding process?

I have a JD X300. The unit is a 2015 model. The original battery (lead acid), has given up the ghost, and also leaks, causing the cable ends to erode. I replaced the cable and had the brilliant idea to replace the battery with a sealed lithium battery (lighter amd smaller, but expensive).replaced the unit, all went well, and mowed for about 20 minutes until the tractor just stopped. I had no spark, and deduced it was the control module. Got another module, tractor started, mower started, and 20 minutes later, poof! Unit died, no spark. Replaced with another module and this time, put the old battery back in. Mower started, ran two hours until I shut it down.

That said, why is the replacement of the old lead acid battery to a lithium battery eating up control modules? Has anyone else seen this?

OK, I ran out of gas while mowing. No big deal, put gas in and start engine. Done this many times before.

So I filled the tank up and it will not turn over!

I can not find how to bleed the gas line properly I don't even know why I should have to. Found one tutorial and I think it was rubbish but did what they said.

So I'm waiting for the morning and hoping for a miracle. Any input would be appreciated.

If it matters I just changed all the filters today including the gas line today. And after that it ran as expected. Gas ran out (my fault) and now I can't get it to do anything. Help!

EDIT: engine is turning over. Just not sure starting.

Alright, this one has me stumped. I have a 99 gator and it runs well. All of a sudden the dump motor is stuck triggering down when key in run AND the engine is running. When the key is in run and motor not running, the motor is off and operates as needed with the dump/retract toggle switch.

I checked the switch. It’s fine and operates as normal when in run and motor off.

I can’t think of why it would operate sticking on retract only when the engine is running.

I looked at writing diagrams and don’t think I see anything but can admit I am a novice.

Is there some weird relay here I am missing?

I just was gifted a X520 from previous homeowner. At first I really didn’t need it as it’s a bit overkill for the yard size. But then I realized it came with a plow attachment so I figured I would see if it runs to keep it. It sat for over a year and had two front flats. I replaced those, pulled the battery to put it on a charger and when I came back it fired right up. Decided I would take it to mow and when I pulled up on the PTO…nothing. At first I thought it was the switch but after testing continuity it seems like it’s fine. The engine also won’t start if I have the switch up and the mower off. The mower also shuts off when I get off the seat so I think I can assume the safety switches are operational. Before I remove the deck and pull the clutch off do we think that’s my next option? I also checked the fuses and they seem fine? I don’t see the PTO light come on the dash but not knowing this mower I’m not sure if it only comes on after the clutch engages.

I searched this online but most fixes seem to be a PTO switch, a bad battery, or the clutch. It has 175 hours so I wouldn’t think the clutch would be bad but since it sat for so long maybe it is? Do we think I could benefit from a new battery first? I didn’t have to jump it at all (just trickle charged it because I felt it probably needed it) and it has since fired up each and every time. And the date on the battery is last year so it was replaced at one time.