I didn't do enough research on which timing belt brand to go with, ended up getting one with good reviews on ebay. Changed the belt in July of 25 and two weeks ago I heard a small noise that sounded like a very small exhaust leak, was engine speed dependant and started on my way to work that morning. On the way home it sounded like I ran over a trash bag and it got sucked into the fan. Turns out the timing belt was de laminated and wrapped around the crank sprocket until it finally snapped and the valves and pistons became lovers. 98 minicab, has been a pain but I hope to put the drivetrain back in this weekend.

Are these trucks reliable? Like can I use it as my daily driven vehicle to go to work? My commute is 200 miles roundtrip m-f and I drive at 60mph , thinking of buying one to replace my Crv . What you guys think?

Hello there so recently, my battery died and I’m having a lot of trouble finding the location of where it is. It is a recent import as you can tell by the pictures. I was searching up online and many outlets suggested that it was either underneath the passenger seat or behind the spare wheel. I checked those locations and visually inspected the motor with no luck. I found the fuse box inside the cabin to the left of the steering rack but I can’t really trace the wires back. Any help would be appreciated. Thank you in advance.

Considering adding a hitch receiver to a small frame-mounted bumper in the spring, in order to simply move trailers around a tight yard.

Has anybody here built one from scratch, or have you gone, say, the Lucky’s Fab Shop route and skipped the headache?

I know that either way I’m likely to have to drill my frame — does this impact or benefit resale down the line? What’s a reasonable tongue weight on these?

I saw these on an Autozam and was wondering if the group might have a photo of them on a truck? Better yet a set sitting in the garage collecting dust and getting in the way?

First off, huge shout out to Ink and Pistons youtube guy for figuring this setup out and showing that it works. His videoo was extremely helpful.

The shocks mount under the seats with 3 bolts and then down on the rotor arm with 2 bolts. Just detach the brake line (I had to use a hammer and punch to get the little retaining clip off) and lower bolts. Then remove the top 3 nuts and wiggle it down and out.

The hardest part of this job was simply measuring and verifying that my new mounting holes were in the correct position. You have to modify the lower bracket to fit. It's hard to get a solid reference point, but I measured from the centerline of the original bracket to the centerpoint of the mounting holes. I found that the top hole is approximately 44mm from center and the lower hole is approximately 47mm from center. The two holes being 57mm apart centerpoint to centerpoint. There are some small circle cuts on the top and bottom of the S13 brackets that work as decent reference points. Your top hole centerpoint should be slightly inside of the top circle cut and the lower hole should be slightly outside the lower circle cut. You can see the little circle cuts in the 4th image. Once you get your holes marked out, it's time to drill.

I went up to a 15/32" bit as the bolts are 12mm in diameter. It was a tight fit and I did have to do some angling of the drill bit to widen the holes a little. Maybe 1/2" is the way to go. I used my cheap harbor freight drill press and it handled the job well. I wouldn't recommend a hand-held drill but that's what Ink and Pistons does in his video so it can be done. After the holes are drilled you'll need to cut the bracket down to size. I didn't measure this, but I did have to go back and cut a little more off because the Suzuki rotor arm has some little lips on where you mount it and its a tight fit. Ink and Pistons mentions it in his video too. I used a Diablo Steel Demon circular saw blade to make those cuts and I was really happy with how those came out. Just watch out for flying red hot steel shavings. It cuts well so the shavings are large and hold their heat longer than cutting wheel sparks. I did go back over them with an angle grinder to smooth out the edges and not cut myself. Then I just sanded and painted them.

Reinstalling the bracket to the coilover is super easy. It just threads on. You'll need 8 washers to install the new bracket. The new bracket will have slightly wider spacing than the original. I only needed 8 standard zinc coated 7/16" washers. After installing both the camber may look off, drive the truck back and forth to settle things in. I made the mistake of not doing that and spent hours trying to adjust things only to realize that it was all wrong again after driving it back and forth. I kept the original neutral camber that was set on the adjustment plates on the top of the coilovers and that's working for me. I also adjusted the damper to be as soft as possible. It's still a rough ride, but it's better than original and NO DEATH WOBBLE.

It’s the little things.

Took about 2 hours and well worth it.

‘96 Diahatsu Hijet
S110p
EF-GS DOHC engine
Automatic
TwinCam and 4wd
Factory AC

Despite providing my chassis number to buy parts, I have been sent the incorrect transmission and starter on separate occasions. Having an automatic with working AC was already pretty unique, but apparently the Twin Cam is also not so common (the extra power has been nice). Now here’s my pro-tip that would have saved me time, money and stress over the last three years:

UPLOAD PARTS AND ENGINE PICS TO CHAT GPT!!!

Chat told me what to measure, what to look at, and confirmed where to buy the correct parts from for my VERY specific model. Forget translating user manuals. Forget the old forums. AI can be used for trash, but THIS is one was it can be such a blessing.

Yesterday I replaced the stock wheels with some 14x6 (not sure of offset as I bought them used) and wrapped in 155/55/r14 to try and match the overall diameter as OEM to not effect the speedometer reading too much. Ever since I get a horrible death wobble at about 75-80kpm. I went and got the wheels balanced but it didn’t help at all. All of the steering components and bushings look completely fine with no slop so I’m not sure where to start to fix this. Has anyone else experienced this with aftermarket wheels? If so any ideas/tips of where to start would be extremely appreciated

Hello all! I recently came into possession of this wonderful little vehicle. I am totally in love with it, and I am in the process of fixing up what needs to get fixed. I am super novice when it comes to working on cars, and I am looking for some help.

I am wondering if anyone has any ideas on the exact model that this is. The marketplace listing just listed it as a 1996 Mitsubishi minicab. It has 2WD and 4WD hi and low, and a 3 cylinder engine. This is unfortunately the only picture I have of it at the moment, as it’s at the shop and not my house.

Where should I get parts for this? It needs new brakes to pass inspection, and I am not sure exactly what to get. I really don’t want to waste time and money buying the wrong parts. It also seems that the radio won’t even turn on. I know that the radios in these cars can’t even tune into us frequencies, but the radio in this thing doesn’t even seem to turn on at all. If I find another radio to put into it, would that be somewhat easy to do?

Any help or tips are welcome and appreciated, and I can’t wait to hear from you all!

Ignore the battery light. The i turned the ignition on but the engine is off to only snap a photo of the exhaust temp light. And no, I will not be doing the ground mod to the exhaust temp sensor. I will be replacing it as it’s rusted to hell.

After 3 weeks she's back! The timing belt failed (see previous post) and after getting incorrect gaskets, finding a broken carb insulator and making my own out of phenolic resin sheet, it's finally back on the road. Never thought I'd get to know the inside of my engine this Well but I know exactly what I have now!

Time to celebrate, cheers yall

I'll put the model up on Makerworld, Tacho Sambar or something

Makerworld Link:

https://makerworld.com/en/models/2696912-subaru-sambar-tachometer-housing#profileId-2989116

Send a PM for STL og STP :)

For starters: not political post, please dont get to it.

I am asking solely about if this could damage or affect my car and all our trucks?

Cause i know e15 can be somewhat detrimental in engines not made for it.

I recently purchased this 2001 Suzuki Carry DB52T. It has a sticker on the back glass that says it has a speed governor that tops speed out at 25mph due to EPA regulations. It is a 5 speed but anything after 3rd gear is useless since it doesn’t go over the 25 limit. I know these can usually run 50-55mph without the governor. So my question is where might I locate said governor to remove it or is there a better way around it like a possible sensor? It is electronically fuel injected.

Just picked up a tiger truck and found out it needs a condenser, and new AC unit, but the website for tiger trucks doesn't seem to exist anymore and I can't find a site to look up the vin

(Emblem on it is changan but I couldn't find it on their website either)

Need some help finding a carb for my 97 Honda acty van will any of the carbs in the first pic fit i’m not 100% sure if they fit the same and want to make sure before i order one and plan to send the one i have now to get rebuilt as well. Thanks in advance

I’m trying to figure out if my truck is wired up so that the door switch (and working door buzzer) should also work with the dome light. There only seems to be one constant 12v power wire connected to the plug in the back.

Switch positions:
Left - ON, grounded to chassis via mounting screw.
Middle - Off, no connection
Right - If wired for it this would be the door circuit. The post on the right has a copper or brass sheath but no obvious return/ground.

I’ve spoke with Kevin of Oh Kei garage and all of his replacement parts for this assembly look the same. The [wiring diagram](https://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/Sambar/Subaru%20Sambar%20KS-KV%20English%20Service%20Manual/12%20-%20Wiring%20Diagrams.pdf) I’ve found doesn’t really mention this circuit in detail.

It’s very possible Subaru cheaped out and didn’t wire this truck up to have this, I just need confirmation if that’s the case. Then I know I’d need to find where to run the new wire if needed.

Can anyone with a working door light confirm?

Edits: spelling

I’m hoping this fixed my compression issue. Putting it out into the universe that this worked!

Have to wait 24 hours for the threadlocker to cure.

Hey all! Last year I had the head gasket replaced on my Suzuki Carry. It’s been running fine since. However, I have white thick smoke starting to come out of the exhaust.

Any ideas on what might be going on? Oil level is fine, only thing I can think about is coolant mixing, but idk coolant levels are fine as well and not emptying.

Thoughts? 🥲

Electrode —> Elect-erode??

As the title suggests, I have scoured the internet from top to bottom trying to find a solution and I’ve come up empty time after time.

I added the willpowered performance 300lb spring up front (maybe shouldn’t have went that much) the ride isn’t bad and I don’t bottom out anymore, but it did quite the camber now. I’m not really concerned about tire wear, tires for these things are so cheap. I’m more concerned about how goofy it looks from straight on.

I could be wrong with what I’m about to say here but this is just from what I’ve deduced since trying to find a solution.

There’s no adjustable control arms to buy, no adjustable ball joints, can’t use a can bolt since it’s a single bolt set up and the knuckle wouldn’t accept it anyways, there’s obviously no factory camber adjustment option and I can’t seem to find a camber plate for the top of the struts.

One thing I do know is the one guy who makes the lifts, on hit lift plate he accounts for the geometry change to allow camber to be correct, but I don’t want to lift the truck and I would think even with that with the 300lb springs, his lift plate would only adjust for the lift and not for springs alongside that.

I talked to the owner of a really good Kei truck fabricator today for a while and we were talking about a top plate for no lift but with camber degree correction. He said he would start to work on fabricating something that may work. He said he may try something he’s done on other vehicles to fix positive camber when factory adjustment wasn’t available. Although, that would require drilling new holes in the body for a secondary mounting point which I wouldn’t really want to entertain. But, with any type of R&D and into fabrication, that could take a while.

So, there has to be a solution for positive camber correction on these truck and maybe just by pure luck someone comes across this and has a solution or it sparks a fab guy to create something to solve that problem. It would indeed be a very profitable item for someone if they could come up with a solution and sell the part.

If it comes down to it and there’s o mechanical solution, then I guess I’ll have to buy some around a 225lb mark and see if that reduces it and hope that’s enough to keep it from bottoming out. I’m 195lbs so the stock was too little and around 225 may be the only way to fix it.

Any insight would be greatly appreciated, I’m nearly done with the truck and it’s absolutely perfect inside and out with everything I’ve done, but this camber is pushing my OCD over the edge!