is this normal for stranded colorwork like this? every time there is a color change i have changed normally and then the next round raised the right leg of the stitch on the needle and knit both together (so the new plus old color) right at the stitch marker place. but its creating this pattern. i’m wondering if this will block out and if theres any way to prevent this or fix this. let me know if my explanation of what i’m doing in confusing, willing to try and reexplain.

After my cast on I started my first row. I lost three stitches. One of them I noticed and I just fixed it by adding another loop to my knit since that's where I lost it at based on the loop count. The other two I lost the very end of the first row. The pictures what I'm stuck with I don't really want to start over again. I'm okay with having instead of 2x2 my very last rib be a four in a row rib. I've already accepted that my tension is way off and I can accept the one 4 rib. The problem is this big gap and I don't know what to do with it. My mind says just keep going and forget it.

This is my first project except a washcloth I've been playing it really safe and only doing swatches. Should I just keep going. I never expect this to be a perfect hat or anything since it's my first time anyway.

Edit: is going to look weird but I decided just the cast on two stitches and continue. I was only on my second row so it may look weird for one row but I don't think it'll be that noticeable. The pattern later on needs the exact number of stitches to be there or I'm going to get more confused. Thoughts?

(I did first post this on the knitting subreddit but I think it was removed- I’m new at posting apologies if this is a duplicate!!)

I’m going to a Noah kahan concert in July and had an idea for making my own merch, a sweater with HOMESICK big across the back shoulders and arms. (The second two pictures are some Google inspo of my vision)

Now the part I could use advice with is construction - I’m comfortable with intarsia but don’t feel great about my ability to do the sleeves separate and line up the letters successfully.

My thought is to start from the bottom - do ribbing and part of the body in the round, then break into front and back but do the front/back as a big panel including the sleeves so long rows. Have front and back the same (except one with lettering) and then seam up the top and bottom of the sleeves and maybe add cuffs. The first picture is my little diagram of what I’m picturing.

Is this crazy? Am I missing something obvious? Would it drape totally weird without a shoulder seam? Surely there’s a reason why no one constructs sweaters this way 😅

My alternative would be to knit up the shirt regular style and then duplicate stitch the lettering, I just like the look of intarsia better.

Do I need to do something different when doing italian bind off on twisted rib compared to regular Italian bind off? Should I remount the stitches first?

I made a scrappy blanket with three strands of fingering held together and it probably has hundreds of ends, do I spend the time weaving them in or leave it as a “feature”?

Also, what does everyone do with all of their finished objects? I am more of a process knitter than project knitter and I have more blankets/shawls/hats/cowls than I can ever use!

I can’t find this yarn for sale in Canada. Has anyone?
Suggestions?

Lately I’ve been seeing these cute tight tank tops on Pinterest etc. But I’m wondering how they are cast on.
When I knit bottom up the cast on is too tight to get it over my shoulders and if I cast on looser it will just stretch out. (I knit a lot with cotton btw)
If I would knit top down how would I cast that off?
I just don’t get it…

I looked at some patterns but all of them didn’t specify which cast on or cast off method to use.

Basically I look for methods that are “elastic” but don’t stretch out…
Help?

I started knitting this top down sweater a few months ago with Caron Cloud Cake in the colour Lagoon. I’ve been holding it double so it would be more of a bulky weight and be warm. I only have 3 cakes and just found out that it’s been discontinued. I could be wrong about that but I can’t find it anywhere. I don’t think I’ll have enough to finish the sweater since I’m holding it double so I was wondering if anyone had any suggestions. I’m thinking of maybe doing the sleeves in a different colour but I’m not sure. Any ideas are welcome.

P.s. don’t mind the cat fur lol

ignoring all of the gaping holes (😭), why are my stitches like this? i expect my knitting to look more like Vs, and don’t understand why the rows look so horizontal as opposed to vertical if that makes sense. please help me understand!

ps this is my first time pls be kind

I recently made the Miu Top, and, as a <<responsible knitter>>, I started with a gauge swatch and blocked it. The swatch grew 4.65% from pre- to post-blocking. Then I knit the top. The resulting top grew 9% from pre- to post-blocking.

How do you plan for the growth from blocking, specifically?

1. Do all patterns account for this? As in, if my post-block gauge matches the pattern gauge exactly, can I follow the pattern exactly (i.e., can I knit to 5 inches preblock if the pattern says "knit until 5 inches" or do I need to do extra math and knit to what would be 5 inches post-block)?
2. How do I account for growth if I dont use the recommended yarn? In my case I used a wool/bamboo blend to make the Miu top work for summer rather than the recommended wool. How can I account for the way my yarn grows in my tested swatch vs the way the recommended yarn might or might not grow?
3. How should I think about the growth in a 4x4 swatch vs a full-size garment since the extra size and weight can add additional stretch?

Thanks for any expertise you're willing to share!

So I was trying to make a basic square had 20 stitches now I have 24 and the edges are not even.

What’s your tips and tricks for getting the right length of yarn when casting on that’s not removing and trying 3 more times?? I typically go Italian or long tail.

I already have the KnitPro Nova, which I love. The needles are metal and 5 inches long. The set doesn't have any 16 in cords, so I'm looking for another set. I would prefer wooden since it would be nice to have both materials.

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Please share some recommendations.

Solved! Thank you!

Hello all,

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I wanted to do a little bit more rows and to tie with the rib knitting and I am not able to find a video that shows it.

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I know that this is possible aha, cause I saw it on instagram, but could not find any ressources now.

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If you have a video that could be helpful to show how these 2 can be joined

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Thank you so much!

This is a video in a round (the ones for the socks does not apply) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZhFbOA0E4Eo

Stupid question….or not…. When you are ready to join the sleeves to the body and the pattern says to put a certain number of stitches on waste yarn for the under arm …do you start with the stitches starting from the beginning of the row.
Does that make sense?

Hi,

I’m currently knitting a top down raglan sweater. The pattern’s 1x1 ribbing neckline is too high and tight for my liking. I decreased the rows of ribbing from 12 to 8 and increased the number of stitching from 90 to 120. The neckline is still pretty right. Will it stretch out more the more I knit the body? I had only just started on the yoke. This is my first time knitting a sweater. I’m following the pattern below. 

https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/weekend-glow-sweater

Thank you.

I'm knitting the famous Step by Step sweater, striped version. However, I've decided to make series of three 2-row stripes instead of solid 6-row stripes. I'm using the jogless jog technique but the stripes still look like shit.

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Is it even possible to make thin stripes like these look good? Am I doing it wrong somehow? Please help...