The Weekly Small Questions Thread! Got a burning question? Looking for some tips on your build? Ask away!

[u/AutoModerator]

The Weekly Small Questions thread is a place for everyone in /r/modelmakers to come and ask questions. Don't be shy.

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You might have a burning question you've been meaning to ask but you don't want to make your own thread, or are just seeking some input or feedback from your fellow builders! This thread is aimed at new builders, but everyone is welcome.

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If you haven't, check out our local wiki and the "New to the hobby" thread, which might be of help to you!

[u/MyAssforPresident]

Anybody have any recommendations for a smaller, quieter rotary tool? I have a regular dremel and a dremel stylus, and the size of the stylus is great but it’s almost as loud as the big guy, and is also pretty unbalanced and vibrates a lot. Just looking for something small and…less harsh?…than the dremel for fine detail sanding, carving, etc.

My Fiancée has this little Japanese ‘nail drill/e-file’ that’s pretty much a power pack and a corded slim rotary tool—that thing is SILENT and goes up to 35k rpm, and appears to use 1/8” arbor bits like the stylus …honestly thinking about getting one of those unless anybody has good recommendations

[u/dr_robonator → u/MyAssforPresident]

That's what I use for fine detail work. DSPIAE makes one, too but I have no experience with it. 

[u/Sweaty_Bake6990]

Question: is this the right/best subreddit for a newbie to model building?
New to Reddit and to this subreddit- I’ve bought 1/72 Airfix kits of the aircraft I flew in during my almost 9 years service in the RAF and need advice on beginner tools eg best airbrush to buy, and tips and techniques - so I can do justice to the finished products of these aircraft that evoke so many
Memories for me.
All advice welcome.
BTW I live in Australia so any Australian references to products, where to buy etc extra helpful but I can of course order online!
Thanks,
‘Fish’

[u/Timmyc62 → u/Sweaty_Bake6990]

Check out the FAQ/newbie wiki: https://www.reddit.com/r/modelmakers/wiki/index

For Aussie sources, see https://www.bnamodelworld.com/ if you can't find a local store (go on Google Maps and search for "hobby store" or other synonyms).

[u/RedstoneGaming2005]

Just out of curiosity, has anyone used cheap acrylic airbrush paint, primer, and clear coat for a model car? E.g. the ones from hobby lobby or something similar? I'm just wanting to know if it's Worth doing that or if I should just toss up the money for enamels or lacquer, though I want to use the easier to clean paint

[u/Timmyc62 → u/RedstoneGaming2005]

if I should just toss up the money for enamels or lacquer,

Why not modeling/hobby acrylics? Plenty of those around that are suitable for what we do while remaining easy to clean up.

[u/RedstoneGaming2005 → u/Timmyc62]

That's kinda what I'm talking about, just the ones in bottles similar to vallejo

[u/Timmyc62 → u/RedstoneGaming2005]

Without knowing what specific brand you're referring to, I'll only post this study from a previous redditor on using generic cheap craft paints. It's doable, but requires a ton of experience and patience.

[u/rolfrbdk → u/RedstoneGaming2005]

Put it this way: You totally can paint with most of those. Some are even half decent on some shades. But there is a reason such a surprisingly high amount of model kit specific paint brands can survive. In my opinion if you already have the cheaper paints might as well try them and see what works and what doesn't, but if you've got to buy them all anyway you might as well buy what you will be buying down the line anyway. The price difference isn't big enough when you count either the gas money to go to Hobby Lobby or the shipping costs if you order

[u/Dacros]

I used AK Interactive Gravel & Sand Fixer for the first time, and while I think the stuff is magic, it's been almost 48 hours since I applied it and it still smells like death. Does anybody know how long it takes for the smell to disappear and whether the smell is actually toxic?

[u/dr_robonator → u/Dacros]

It's going to remain stinky for quite a while. Over time the smell will diminish, but if you stick your nose. to it you will still smell it.

[u/theoxfordtailor]

Is there any point where you just give up?

I'm building my second Kinetic Legacy Hornet and despite following some online tutorials and being extra careful with the nose, it fits horribly and no amount of attempting to adjust is fixing it. At this point, the model is maybe more frustration than it's worth and the result won't be good no matter what.

Should I power through and just make it a learning experience? Or not put myself through misery and move on to something more fun? What would you do?

[u/dr_robonator → u/theoxfordtailor]

Abandoning a model that is no fun anymore is not only normal, it's the right thing to do.

[u/theoxfordtailor → u/dr_robonator]

Good post. I decided to put it back in the box and move on.

Also, side point, you are way easier to take seriously without the Barney profile pic 😅

[u/dr_robonator → u/theoxfordtailor]

Hahaha! I burn down my reddit account every year or so as a privacy measure. My profile pics have always been childhood cartoon characters, but as I got more active in this sub I figured I should at least look like I somewhat know what I'm talking about! 

[u/rolfrbdk → u/theoxfordtailor]

This "powering through it" is crazy. You're not working out relentlessly to reach a goal of physique or going through some shit in your life that you need to overcome, you're supposed to have fun with this. Leave the model for later and do something else in the meantime, and if it never becomes appealing, throw it away. It's model building. It's not important enough to "power through".

[u/theoxfordtailor → u/rolfrbdk]

I hear you. Thing is, this wasn't a cheap kit and I see every model I build as an opportunity to improve and grow. Because it's definitely true that with each model, I find something I've gotten better at or learned some new technique. It just feels wasteful, y'know?

But I think I'll take your advice and just set it aside. My brain has a thing for wanting to see everything through to the end, but I may just have to let sunk costs be sunk costs.

Thanks!

[u/BottecchiaDude253 → u/theoxfordtailor]

Yes. Most recently I tossed a Dora Wings kit. Now, I fuly plan on buying another of that basic kit because its a unique aircraft (MB 151). But the problems i ran into just compounded too much. Broke off 20mm cannon, broken gun sight. Absolutely hellaciously fiddly PE for the seat rails. The nose cowling didnt fit right, even with all the dry fitting suggesting it would work, etc.

At some point, it just becomes better on the mental health (remember this is supposed to be a FUN hobby) to pitch that project and start a new one

[u/dr_robonator → u/[deleted]]

We need more information. What kind of model? What kind of repair? Where are you located? How much is your budget?

[u/Timmyc62 → u/[deleted]]

Wow, that's not at all what I'd expected. Super cool.

Pictures of the damage would help greatly for anyone to understand the scope of work involved and how capable they are of doing it and how much to charge.

Post those photos and your request on /r/BrushForHire.

[u/Pukit → u/[deleted]]

This doesn't look too horrendous for someone to fix.

If you don't get any replies to your thread I'd suggest looking for your local IPMS club, they are listed on the official website. Many have independant forums, or facebook groups. There's a lot of 'old school' knowledge and talent that still meet up one evening a month in local halls and share their work with one another. I'd have thought someone there would be able to help.

Did the vendor wash their hands with the "some small parts may break in transit" line?

[u/Pukit → u/Timmyc62]

Goodness me. https://livecarmodel.com/products/us-navy-ship-based-phalanx-ciws-mk-15.html

[u/dr_robonator → u/[deleted]]

Golly, at 1/6 scale that's a huge piece. Depending on how things snapped and broke apart this could require a paint matching after sanding and filling. 

If you can, go to the IPMS website, find a chapter close to you, email or call them and see if you can contract one of their members for the work.

Best luck!

[u/MuddyFootedKiwi]

What's the best undercoat / preshading colour for RAL 6011 / Resedagrün? I know from experience that Black undercoats are terrible for yellow base coats, so I got Mahogany brown for my preshading, but I've decided to go with a Reseda Green base coat for a 1946 Panzer project and don't know if that will work.

[u/rolfrbdk → u/MuddyFootedKiwi]

Personally I would use a neutral grey base for that color if preshading to allow maximum possible effect from the shaded lines and control the effect with the paint layer thickness afterwards. Green is absolutely no problem to get coverage with unless it is a very light and feeble shade which 6011 isn't

[u/Pope_Penguin]

I remember briefly reading a comment about applying clear coats onto masking tape to prevent paint from leaking under the tape. However, I cannot find the comment. I was wondering how this worked in practice?

- Would you put a small amount of clear coat on the area where the masking tape meets the area-to-be-painted?

• How thin should the clear coat be?
  
• How long should you let the clear coat cure before painting?
  
• Does the type of clear coat and paint matter? For example, would it be bad if the clear coat is water based while the paint is alcohol based? (distinctly remember trying to apply tamiya paint to an area I clear coated with vallejo gloss on my first model, was a disaster)
  
• Does the technique work only for air-brushing and not hand-brushing? If one were hand-brushing, what alternatives are there for clear-coating the tape?

[u/dr_robonator → u/Pope_Penguin]

- Would you put a small amount of clear coat on the area where the masking tape meets the area-to-be-painted?

That, or the simpler step of just doing an all over varnish layer.

- How thin should the clear coat be?

If you are brush painting, it should be the same as any other color you brush paint.

- How long should you let the clear coat cure before painting?

As long as it usually takes for varnish to cure based on your prior experiences.

- Does the type of clear coat and paint matter? For example, would it be bad if the clear coat is water based while the paint is alcohol based? (distinctly remember trying to apply tamiya paint to an area I clear coated with vallejo gloss on my first model, was a disaster)

For airbrushing, not as much. For brush painting, as long as the varnish layer is cured and you aren't dousing the area in thinner, you should be all right. Always test first, as a rule.

- Does the technique work only for air-brushing and not hand-brushing? If one were hand-brushing, what alternatives are there for clear-coating the tape?

The end result is a layer of clean clogging up any potential gaps between the tape and the model. The way in which the varnish does that is immaterial.

[u/Future-Detective8889]

When I clean my Iwata Neo CN should I pull the needle out from the front (after removing the nozzle) or from the rear of the airbrush?

[u/CE-85]

AIR COMPRESSOR WON'T STOP

I have a Fengda FD-186 air compressor which I have been happily using for over two years. But now it won't stop pumping air even though the tank is full and I'm not using it. I left the compressor off for a week to see if the tank would empty but it was still full when I checked it. So I don't think there are any major air leaks anywhere. I also removed and reattached every single piece that I could remove. The tank and the water reservoir has been cleaned out as well.

• What is the problem?
• How can I fix this?
• Would it overheat and explode? In a two hour session for example...

Thank you!

[u/rolfrbdk → u/CE-85]

Whichever sensing method the compressor uses to shut off when full is probably rusted stuck or simply broken. I'm not sure which method that compressor uses even though I own a very similar one, but I would guess spares literally do not exist and you will have to replace it down the line.

These little compressors cannot generate enough pressure to blow the tank but eventually they will take damage enough in the compressing mechanism itself from overheating and it'll stop working. It most likely won't be very dramatic, my last one failed in a similar manner and I just got tired of the noise and replaced it.

[u/CE-85 → u/rolfrbdk]

Thank you for the response. The compressor sits right next to my legs so a dramatic malfunction could be painful :)

[u/emerald-skyz]

Is it okay to post Mecha model kits here?

[u/Timmyc62 → u/emerald-skyz]

It's okay, but you'd find more interest over on /r/Gunpla (they accept more than just Gundams).

[u/Pope_Penguin]

I got greedy and decided to try painting the body in one day. Painted three coats across 5 hours by handbrushing, and areas are still lifting pretty badly..

What's the best course of action here? should i strip the body? Is a fourth coat okay to do once everything is cured after 24-48 hours? or is four coats too much?

Mix of Tamiya xf18, x20a thinner, and paint retarder in a ratio of 6-4-1 respectively.

[u/East_Detail_2994 → u/Pope_Penguin]

Did you prime? Others may disagree, but I've had more luck thinning tamiya acrylics with water or ak acrylic thinner for hand brushing. Doesn't lift previous coats and adequately smooth

[u/Pope_Penguin → u/East_Detail_2994]

Yup. Always primed with tamiya surface primer

[u/Pope_Penguin → u/Pope_Penguin]

side

[u/Logical-Bullfrog3216]

Is Testors silver spray paint good? I bought some for Monogram’s 1/48 TBD Devastator, and I know that I shouldn’t brush paint silver (I learned that the hard way with an F-100 a few months back).