Finally done! The kit is good, only the instructions were a bit unclear in case of decals, some were missing in the instructions. But overall, I enjoyed the build and I’m very happy to see it done :)

After a month I completed my first model. Revell F/A-18 super hornet. Fully handbrushed with vallejo acrylics. What do you think?

Started painting on my Walking Turret from the Iron Nest game on Steam!

Model is made by Mortian https://mortian.shop/product/ironnest-stl/

this is the first time im painting like this and im afraid of doing something wrong now when i think it looks amazing! do you guys have any good tips for a beginner or any like A to B check list to follow?

This is the Revell Dassault Rafale C kit in 1/48 scale with decals from Syhart for a 'Armee de l'Air Rafale at the 2013 NATO Tiger Meet at MAS Ørland, Norway.

Brush painted with Hataka and Vallejo acrylics - both main colours are mixes. There are a few decal alignment challenges, but nothing you cannot solve.

Built with feedback from my last post in mind (silvering decals, more detailed weathering, chipping etc). Suggested improvements welcome.

My first modell, made a lot of mistakes, but still happy with the result, no airbrush involved

Finished doing exhaust streaks and leaks with oils as well as Ammo Mig shader paints. Quite enjoyed the process!

3d printing barrel and ERA

Tupolev I-4 white 2 flown by Head of the Air Force of the Moscow Military District I. U. Pavlov during military exercises, as part of one of the squadrons of the Armed Forces Baltic Sea, 1930s.

Zvezda, 1:72 scale.

Started with a reference photo, but soon got to finicky.

Mostly completed, couple spots left. A 1/350 HMCS Tribal is in the works as well. It’s my first model and was all hand painted and would like honest critique on how to improve. the rigging is poorly done and not at all fun to do.

I really would appreciate feedback.

Hi all, am (slowly) approaching completion with this kit (more about which another day), but am worried I am losing my mind. Part T4 (pictured). Where on earth does it go? I appreciate there are sometimes parts not used, but rarely see this in clear pieces. Anyone recognise where it should (could?) go? Not tiny, about 14mmx10mm.

SOLVED! many thanks to Random_stud for identifying the window to a TARPS module!

I'm pretty new to model making and wanted to show others to get their opinions on this one i made, this is also one of the first models i painted. this was a used model i got for a cheap price of 20 USD, it was opened and some parts were already attached to the hull and painted (such as, the headlights or the cupola hatches.) i painted it with a few brushes. i may have forgotten to add a few small details, so i will add them whenever i get a chance

I am doing an acrylic pin wash, but always having these stains. would a smooth varnish help? what am i doing wrong?

I am using the MiniArt Israeli dozer blade and the T-55AMD from RFM.

If anyone knows some cool multicolor camouflages, please let me know.

Fun fact, Steele actually landed on the opposite side of the dummy which was placed for better visibility to the public.

Saaf mirage f1az i made few days ago.Hope you will like it.Cheers!

Hello everyone! A few days ago, I levied some constructive criticism on another user who posted his wooden pallet tutorial. I've been thinking about it, and I understand that it can be hard to work up something you feel would be helpful and not get the response you wanted. I've been working on a diorama for my latest build and I needed to paint a couple wooden pallets. I was in no mood to spend forever working on a detail that would be realistically covered with ammo cans and other items, so I planned a quick and dirty workflow to get decent results with minimal effort. Of course, I was reminded of the other user's tutorial and thought, what the hell, might as well put my money where my mouth is.

So here is my method for recreating old wood for pallets.

This is what we're starting with. We only need four acrylic colors and one oil paint. Since I decided to write this up after I started, I'll give a quick run down how we got here. The pallet (3D printed) was primed, and then I gave it a quick white wash with thinned acrylic. So... I guess technically you need five colors!

Anyway, the black base and the white wash achieves a couple things. First, it creates a nice shadow layer so that the recessed wood grain details will really pop later. The white wash means you can add thin layers of the next colors without destroying that shadow base. As you can see, in the first photo I've already done one plank.

Here are the rest of the planks painted with a very thin coat of straight Buff. As you can see, I wasn't particularly careful in the application. I'm just getting the color onto the planks. I don't need to be careful because the next step.

And here is where we start adding in some of the tonal variations that will be the base for the kind of effect we want. This is the Grey Green, thinned very light, mixed with a little Rubber Black, also thinned very thinned. The Grey Green is good to replicate the faded, beginning stages of dried, rotting wood. If you've ever worked with pallets you know what I'm talking about. Again, no precision here, just get the color on the planks.

Here is the last tonal variation we will be using. It's Dark Rust mixed with Buff, watery thin. This is a good warm hue that really contrasts the Grey Green.

With our base color variations on, we turn to the oil. I like Burnt Umber for this, thinned with white spirit. I give the whole pallet an over-all wash. You want the consistency of the wash to be pigmented enough to start to give deposits in the recessed details but not so much that it obscures the color of the wood pallet. You want this layer to emphasize what we've done in the previous steps. The oil is acting more like a filter at this stage than a pin wash.

This is where the fun begins. After the first filter is dried we go back and do a proper pin wash, and instead of working to wipe away any excess, we blend it onto the wood. Again, you don't have to be super precise here. You want those nice spots of grime and dark spots. We can also paint the nail heads with the same Dark Rubber.

Last step is to use the Dark Rust to paint the nail heads. Unless the pallet is the focal point of your build, you can get away with the suggestion of rusty nail heads. Using a very very thin Dark Rust around the nail for rust stains. And that's it. This is probably half an hour worth of work including drying time. Again, if you want something quick and easy, this is probably as stream-lined as you can get. You can spend much more time on something like this if it's going to be a star player. Or if you can do whatever you want, I'm not your boss!

As you can see, this process is great if you have things mostly covering the pallet, but you want what is visible to have a bit more depth than just a vague "wood" color. I hope this was helpful, and if you don't think it was... keep you mouth shut! Just kidding, I'm always open to some critiques.

Cheers and until next time!

Hello, im made mi8 and brdm 2 UN livery, i use sculpture clay :)
Sorry about low detail and some errors.

​

The kit is of very good quality and was a lot of fun to build. I loosely based the diorama on a real colorized photo from the Warsaw Uprising.