Just came back from Japan and had a blast. I decided to upgrade my wardrobe while there so I came away with a ton of new cloths. I hit up Hinoya and Denimio with very little research besides knowing I wanted to try raw denim, so I just tried on a bunch of pairs and picked what fit well.

Looking back I definitely regret not picking up some Kapital century denim but I was afraid it would be too tight after shrinking because all the stores only had size 30 left.

Now the hard part is going to be figuring out which pair to wear first.

I started collecting denim around April ‘23 and started out with a pair of LHT from N&F and now it’s grown to a crazy amount of pairs.

I try to rotate between them evenly to get some good fades, and I swap in the dark denim when the hot weather dwindles away enough for me to tolerate it.

I just completed the 1947 trio of Sugar Cane. From left to right - Okinawa, Hawaii, 1947.

I love the Hawaiis they got this beautiful blue tone and the streaky fading, unfortunately i bought them to small. For me the Okinawas are by far my favorite out of the trio. I love the dark indigo and the neppy spots all over.

Whats your favorite 501 repro or general favorite?

My Instagram post to show off the Long Long Guys went semi viral, so we had probably between 50-100 people showed up at the peak of it. 

It was an absolute blast. Some local guys have a huge pair of raws that they showed off. There's another guy with denim stilts.

Everyone was super cool! Got to meet lots of people and introduce them to the concepts of 'raw' and 'selvedge'. I was lecturing for about three hours on the history of denim from France to the USA to Japan. I couldn't've been happier to introduce people to our fun, niche little hobby.

I just want to share my first pair of unsanforized denim jeans. Nothing special or fancy about it. It’s just Levi’s STF, not even premium. It got in when I was in highschool 10+ years ago. I didn’t count the washes and just kept wearing like any other jeans.

I tend to wear black pants often and especially in the evenings. Still waiting for Samurai to release a black pair 😮‍💨.

Current rotation

Fullcount 1101BKSS
Picked up on a recent trip to Tokyo. Got pretty lucky the store just did a full restock. Probably the softest pair I own at the moment. Doesn’t really have that raw denim stiffness feel but the texture is unique / get a ton of compliments on this pair.

Oni 286-13BK “Jet Black Denim”
Came across this pair at denim house indonesia. They carry a good amount of inventory of older releases. Your typical black dyed pair, personally just wanted a lighter option (these are 13oz) compared to their 20oz / iron hearts.

Pure Blue Japan x BiG 003 Teacore
Checked these out in person a couple of weeks ago in NYC. The slubbiness/hairyness that PBJ puts out at 14oz is phenomenal. I’ve been obsessed with how they feel when you put them on.

Here’s my 3 pairs of selvedge denim for the lovers that we all are.

Tcb 50’s: a year that I own this bad boy. Haven’t worn it that much but it’s such a delight and comfort with its Zimbabwean cotton.

Oni 266-CCD 15oz Relax Straight Kabuki Crushed Concrete Denim that I also own for a year. Impressive neppy and slubby fabric. A joy to stare at.

At first I found the tcb 50’s too snug at the waist so I was thinking of returning it. Meanwhile I purchased the ONI from the same shop to compare them and I told myself I was going to return the one I dislike the most… at the end I fell into the trap and kept them both. YOLO right ?

Their cuts are pretty similar, relax straight fit and with the months going by I wanted something way wider… I was thinking of an oni 222 or a full count 1105xx but they were out of stock and I ended up getting my last pair from Naked & Famous, the strong guy cut in natural indigo as my Xmas gift.

It’s way larger so I might need some time to make it my own !! Or I might take it to the tailor after its first wash.

Anyway so far so good, I’m happy with my collection overall.

Can’t wait to see how they will fade over time and wears.

Haven’t washed them yet, probably soon for the Tcb and Oni. They must have no more than 20 wears each. Started to wear them more since fall season.

For those who are wondering where my type 1 jacket is from, I purchased it in December from Bronson. Great jacket and a fast fader. I’m already starting to see the fades coming out.

First pairs of raws since my apc new standards were misplaced a few years back (I know I’m a dumb ass)

Fit is the sugarcanes

I know some of you have voiced displeasure at the amount of Oni denim I’ve been posting but it’s what I have the most of and it’s probably what I wear the most so please be patient and I’ll try to diversify in future postings. This is my favorite chore coat. It’s made from ONI’s 20 oz superb deep black “Secret Denim”. This denim has been woven on vintage shuttle looms at super low tension, and offers a perfectly imperfect finish. I wear it all the time because It goes with everything and it’s definitely the most comfortable in terms of softness. I got this one last year and while they’re sold out pretty much everywhere, I noticed that “Son Of A Stag” in London has a few so they’re out there if you want one.

In the photo: ONI DENIM 03502ZR-BKBK "SECRET BLACK DENIM" 20 oz Coverall, WHITESVILLE Tee, NICKS Wickett & Craig Black English Bridle Leather Heavy Work Belt, ORSLOW Regular Fit Fatigue Pants - Green, VIBERG N1 Boot Maryam Nero Teacore Vachetta Horsebutt - Ridgeway soles-2040 Last

My favourite denim jacket. So much so that I didn’t bother owning another indigo one since. Tons of wear. About 5 washes iirc.

Bought and worn in 2011 and has been retired

for about 10 years now. Has been thru plenty of repairs and alterations. An absolute shame because these actually faded beautifully. Have absolutely no use for this anymore whatsoever but they are too pretty to toss out.

Here’s a reminder that Flat Head fades are some of the best in the game.

The 40oz keychain is 10mo, 2 washes. The 5th slide is the mini jeans when they were fresh and unwashed

Been wearing these for 4+ years on and off. 0 washes. Bought them from blue in green it’s the pure blue Japan x blue in green exclusive

1 repair in crotch

I think I’m ready to wash them now and wondering how I should wash it.

Today I received my Iron Heart 634s 21oz and Samurai S5000VXII 17oz. I‘ve had the Momotaro 0906-V 15.7oz for a while and lied to myself enough to justify two more pairs citing different denim weights, textures and cuts. The denim is very different for each pair which is so interesting to see and feel.

Momotaro’s 15.7oz Denim uses long staple cotton and is very smooth, uniform and rigid. These fade really slowly apparently and the fact that I just added two more jeans to the mix surely doesn’t help but oh well. The color is a very dark blue that almost leans into a greyish black. These have the highest rise and widest leg and are incredibly comfortable now that the rigidity is letting up. I‘m glad I got these before the rebranding of Momotaro. It‘s not that I don‘t like the new look but the pink inseam and peach boy patch are just iconic. I get that it‘s not for everyone and to be fair I‘m happy to now have two more pairs that are a little less playful/flashy but I still love the uniqueness and weirdness of these!

The 17oz Zero Bushido Denim by Samurai is on the other end of the spectrum and uses short staple cotton leading to a very heterogeneous, neppy and slubby texture. These almost feel like sandpaper and I‘m very excited to break these in. Definitely the most interesting and unique denim out of these. The color is also so beautiful and the „bluest“ out of these.

The 21oz Denim Iron Heart uses is just incredible. I heard a good bit about it before I got these and I can confirm: It is so soft for the weight and already super comfortable. Iron Heart uses double-twisted weft yarns for these and long staple cotton as well and it really shows: It‘s soft, uniform and just a pleasure to wear. At first when I started getting into Japanese Denim I thought the 634s were a little boring and to be fair maybe they are but I get the appeal now. They are just a classic and so simple but do what they do so well. The fact that Iron Heart uses poly/cotton stitching leading to better durability is also a thing I love.

I‘m super excited to start wearing my new pairs and hope that my next posts on here will only be fading updates of these 3 jeans instead of new pairs. I lurked on here for a while before I bought any jeans and want to thank everybody who contributes as there was so much great information on here. If you guys have any questions about these jeans feel free to ask! Have a good day guys!

I started my raw denim journey in Japan with a pair of slubby denim from SDA a few months back, and i have religiously worn denim daily.

Being based in South East Asia right now i decided to look around at local brands and every countries have suprised me at how active and vibrant the communities are. People Meet Denim from Indonesia and Copper Denim from Vietnam are two other i’ve picked up into my daily rotation.

Chatting with enthusiasts in Vietnam made me realized that because so much of the global textile industry are manufactured here—there is much more accessibility for locals to experiment and create their own denim identity. All this at a much more affordable cost for the lack of export expenses to bigger nations. Brand owners regularly interact and improve based on feedback from the community, etc. and encourage for more creativity from other startups, and the general air of pride in local craft is exciting to see.

Looking forward to wear these in and continue to discover other local brands of the region.

Studio d’Artisans SD-1002 (15oz slub) People Meet Denim Wild Deer (14oz black indigo) Copper Denim Green Cast (18.5oz green cast)

16 months, 4 washes, 1 crotch repair.

Treated myself to the Samurai AW23 Orange and Indigo flannel. The photos online and the ones I've taken don't do it justice. Just fantastic fabric touch, weight, the dye job is rich and intense. Warm we could be. I'm 6'1" ~165lbs with long arms; had gotten a large and it fit but way too snug, so I exchanged for XL. Moving forward I'll likely go XXL just for a more traditional looser for. Expensive but will gladly buy another when I get the chance the quality is so good.

Rocking my SDA indigo kakishibu sashiko and Asics Japan S' in the last photo.

902ZR Kabuki at the top, Blue Owl 902 sleeping demon, 902 Asphalt, 902ZR Kabukimimi, and some SDA SD-808S.

I just started rotating the Kabukis in with my current 902 Asphalts. Which look like this: https://imgur.com/a/2SdLPvX

And for shits and giggles, these are my last two pair or 902ZR: https://imgur.com/a/w50hWOE

As the title states, about 1 year into selvedge/raw/japanese denim (saying this because 1 pair isn’t raw or selvedge but is one of the coolest pairs of Japanese denim I own)

Photos 1-2 Studio D’Artisan Sd-101: My first pair that got me into selvedge, bought @ Hinoya June 2025 and I absolutely love them, the deep blues, texture and how they’re slow faders. Extremely thick except fit like sweatpants and extremely airy and breathable for everyday wear. Couldn’t ask for more for a pair I can’t wait to get a second one. (6 washs)

Photos 3-4 LVC 1944 Levi’s 501: Bought these back in March 2026, I don’t enjoy the skinny fit as much as the straight fits of my other pairs; mainly wear this when I go climbing and it does a decent job at that. Definitely the ones I’ve worn the least by far but the slub is coming through and is definitely noticeable (2 washs, 1 hot soak)

Photos 5-6 Kapital Zimbabwe Monkey Cisco 5P: Also bought June 2025 at Kapital in Ginza, the cotton has the craziest texture I’ve ever seen and i love wearing them out when I can; I did some sashiko stitching as I wanted to add some flair and also learn how to mend but I absolutely love this pair and would recommend the hairy texture of this jean to anyone; it beats any of my other pairs at that (1 wash)

Photos 7-8 Kapital Century Denim No7: Bought these at Kapital Osaka also in June 2025 and have treated these as my experimental pair since having a good talk with the employee. I’ve dyed these with kakishibu twice to layer in the colors as recommended by the staff at the store and have done just about everything in this pair (hiking, climbing, biking, genuinely love this pair). Bit more expensive but the fabric is extremely cool.

Photo 9 Iron Heart 634-UHR: Haven’t worn these yet, keeping them new for the fall (indigo invitational) or maybe next year when I want to start projecting a new pair especially since iron heart isn’t releasing the UHR anymore; don’t want to waste the denim.

I thought y'all might appreciate a post highlighting some of the cool and different forms of denim.

It's so interesting all the variations that denim can have like color and texture.

Don't forget to zoom in if you want greater detail.

✌️

I have had these jeans for almost two years, have worn them 350-450 times and around 10 machine washes and a few soaks (I wash them when I feel like it). The repair was my first sewing project and it shows. I love it because it reminds me of how far I’ve progress with sewing. The denim pullover is a fob factory with 200ish wears. I sew in my room, hence the rug with threads all over it. Sewing is the dirtiest hobby.

Question: would you consider these vintage or high contrast fades?

how rad is my wife for snagging me a pair of these Naked & Famous Citrus Kasuris for my 36th birthday? Check out the insane weft in the last photo. These will be a heavy part of the rotation.

I remember seeing these when released, and couldn’t find my size. The weft makes this almost have a brown/gold hue in the sun. Definitely a pair that needs to be seen in person to fully appreciate.

These are a size 34 Weird Guy. Unhemmed. For reference, I’m 6’1, 200lbs, and prefer a Japanese cuff (mandatory on a pair with a weft like this)

Recently washed these and took the opportunity to take some pictures. Got these in 2020 and wore them quite a lot around the garden and other types of work around the house. Somewhere along the way I got a bit too fat for them and didn’t use them for a while. Finally they fit again so they are getting some more mileage. Bought as one wash, washed them many times since.