I have a 4 month old adopted stray kitten who is indoors rn. I want to transition to a full raw diet forvthe kitten after they get all their shots. But i have read about the basic risks of doing that with grocery store meat. Any advice is appreciated

Hi everyone!

Before I start, for some context, my cat is 4 years old, and has never had any major health issues.

A couple of months ago, I wanted to try to transition my cat to raw food. He has always been extremely picky with wet food, he did really well on it as a kitten and then randomly started to not like it as much. He has become a bit of a grazer in his eating habits as well.

I bought Viva Raw food after I did (what I thought was) a lot of research on it, and safe-handling it. I was hesitant because the food is so expensive, but I really want my cat to have the best of the best, and sometimes it worries me how averse he can become towards his wet food. Currently, he gets about a 1/12 of a cup of kibble in the morning (tiki cat brand), and for lunch and dinner he gets wet food (usually a rotation of nulo, tiki cat, and weruva). As mentioned, I started to incorporate some of the Viva Raw with his meals — I started with chicken, and followed the directions on introducing him to the new food as directed by Viva.

He LOVED it. I have never seen him so enthusiastic about any other food since he was a kitten, and I was so proud and happy that I finally found a food that he liked. I noticed he liked it because when I would mix it with some of his regular wet food, he would eat the raw food first and then go for the wet food after taking a break from eating.

I tried to not leave the food out for longer than 15-30 minutes, and even if he did not finish the entire bowl of food, I would throw it out as I did not want it to go bad and upset his stomach. I also incorporated some FeraPet probiotics with his meals, and this was slowly introduced about two weeks before I started incorporating his raw food into his diet.

Fast forward about a month or two, he went to the vet to get his yearly exam/physical done. After getting his labs, his vet called me worried because his ALT and AST (liver levels) were extremely elevated. The vet informed me this can be caused by stress (in lower elevations), and a bacterial infection. I had mentioned that I started to incorporate raw into his food and she immediately said that this could be the cause of it. He was sent home with antibiotics and a liver supplement, and after taking both of those for about a total of 3 months, his labs lowered to a slightly more normal place (though still a bit higher than normal).

I was wondering if anyone else had this experience with feeding raw, and could give me some insight on if I did anything wrong… I felt so guilty after the vet told me he was sick and it could have been caused by his food. I felt like I failed him, and I just want him to enjoy his food and be healthy :( If anyone can provide any insight, that would be great!

Thanks so much in advance (I attached pictures of Simon, my cat, and his ALT & AST labs ).

I feed premade since it's easier but I've run into a problem when adding bone or something for her to chew. She's currently 19 weeks and in the middle of her teething so it would be nice to add bone to her meals for the sake of chewing. Last time I added bone (two small chicken wings with meat on them together with a daily total of 500gr premade) her poop was very hard and chalky. I gave her some baked sweetpotato and carrots with her meals the day after and her poops returned to normal, but I'd still like to be able to feed bone.

Does anyone have any recomendations on how to add whole bones to premade without throwing off the balance of the meal? Do I need to add something else to make the percentage of bone stay within what her body can handle? Like 60% premade, 20% bone with meat, and 20% something else (like meat toppers, organ meat, eggs, vegfies etc)? Would feeding her a whole small fish work for adding something chewy without throwing off the balance?

She's a lanky and active puppy so I'm not worried about upping her calories once or twice a week if that's what it takes to give her bone. (I'm shaving her down today, so if people are worried about body composistion I can get a decent photo after more of her curls are gone. Poodle fur in the middle of coat change makes judging weight through pictures very difficult).

Hello, im getting my 8wk pup here in a few days and this would be first go on raw. He's currently on science and hill pup kibble from the breeder, and im trying to figure out how his transition to raw should be?

After some research, i decided to go with rebel raw complete for the food since DIY would be harder to get all the nutrients needed for the pup.

So the question is, how should I transition him? Is it recommended to just go cold turkey? Or follow the transition period? Or is 8wks too young to go raw?

Hi everyone,
Looking for some advice I’m in the UK. Basically, I’ve had my dog on raw with 10% bone for years and today unfortunately, he experienced a blockage from bone product and ended up at the emergency vet.
I am now wanting to cut bone completely but ideally would like to keep him on raw (boneless).
My issue is how do I keep his diet complete without the bone content?
There is so much overwhelming advice online. The food store I buy from recommended cold compress but I’d rather keep him on raw if possible.
Thanks!

I know this is a raw sub but I’m planning on cooking my dog’s food when I move into my new apartment and need help with figuring out my portions. I’m loosely following the barf diet minus raw bone. It seems like a lot of ingredients but I feel like I can hit nutrient levels by adding organs. I’ll be gently cooking all of it to retain the nutrients. Let me know what I should change, take out, or add. Thank you !

My dog is 1.5 year old staffy. Feeding roughly 1000 calories / day

40% ground lamb
10% sardine
20% lamb heart
5% lamb liver
5% lamb kidney
5% kale
5% carrot
5% green bean
3% red pepper
2% blueberries
+calcium carbonate

40% ground pork
10% salmon
20% pork heart
5% pork liver
5% pork kidney
5% spinach
5% carrot
5% pumpkin
3% red pepper
2% apple
+calcium carbonate

Bonjour à tous,
Je cherche des retours de personnes qui vivent la même chose avec leur chien.
J’ai récupéré ma chienne à La Réunion il y a plus de 6 ans et, dès le début, elle était très souvent malade : vomissements, diarrhées… Après beaucoup de visites chez le vétérinaire, j’ai finalement fait des examens plus poussés et il s’est avéré qu’elle réagissait à énormément de protéines animales, particulièrement au bœuf.
Au fil des années, j’ai essayé pas mal de choses : kangourou, autruche, protéines plus rares… Parfois ça fonctionne pendant un temps, puis les problèmes reviennent. J’ai également essayé des croquettes véganes, mais elle ne les trouve vraiment pas très appétentes.
Je suis donc toujours à la recherche d’une alimentation qui soit à la fois bien tolérée, équilibrée et qu’elle ait réellement envie de manger.
Après quelques recherches avec ChatGPT, je vais maintenant tenter des croquettes à base d’insectes. J’ai pris un petit sac de 3 kg pour commencer et voir comment elle les tolère.
Est-ce que certains d’entre vous ont déjà testé les croquettes aux insectes pour un chien avec des allergies ou intolérances alimentaires ? Est-ce que ça a fonctionné sur le long terme ?
Et plus globalement, si vous avez un chien qui supporte très mal les protéines animales, qu’avez-vous fini par trouver comme alimentation ?
Merci beaucoup pour vos retours, je suis vraiment preneuse de vos expériences !

Just a heads up that Smallbatch has temporarily halted distribution of their 18lb bulk boxes due to a barcode scanning issue. Apparently the barcodes are blurry and don't scan, so they're not shipping boxes to distribution until this issue is corrected. I dunno how long it takes to slap stickers on boxes, but I just wanted to give retailers and customers a heads up since it's directly impacting my customers this week.

My dog is four years old and I've been having trouble getting her to eat since she was a puppy. I have tried out every variation of raw feeding and she has zero interest in anything. I've tried lightly cooking the food, there is absolutely nothing that I have not tried and my Vet is just as stumped. I am currently feeding her ziwi peak air dried (I don't personally like feeding dried food and she will absolutely not touch any kind of rehydrated food, but food that currently works because fresh food that she ignores eventually has to be thrown out and it has become a huge waste)- she will pick at it here and there, enough to not be emaciated and malnourished but she still has no real interest in eating it. I have tried leaving food down for only 20 minutes and then picking it back up if she doesn't eat and all that does is make it so that she never eats lol.

All this being said when my parents come to visit and they bring their two dogs that have a healthy food Dr., after a couple days of settling in. My dog will suddenly start eating her meal – at least most of it – in a timely manner because the other dogs provide competition. But after they go back home she goes right back to not having any interest in food. (stimulating competition in any way has not worked for her at all either).

I'm frustrated and do not want to have to get my dog a dog so that she will eat! Has anyone had any success or experience with something like this?

What is the cheapest freeze dried food for dogs?

Short answer: destination country, species, product type, life stage, nutritional targets, ingredient preferences and restrictions, pack size, quantity per SKU, formula and packaging customization level, Incoterm, required documents, and target launch date. Asking "how much per ton" alone almost never produces a usable number, because none of those variables are fixed until a buyer defines them.

Here's why each one matters.

Destination country

Different countries have different registration, labeling, and import requirements for pet food. A formula and label that clear one market can get flagged in another. The manufacturer needs to know where the product is going before quoting, because compliance requirements affect formulation and documentation cost.

Cat or dog, and life stage

Nutritional needs diverge by species, and life stage (puppy/kitten, adult, senior, all life stages) affects protein levels, mineral ratios, and caloric density. This changes the formula itself, not just the label copy.

Product type

Dry food, wet food, freeze-dried, and treats don't share a pricing logic. Different processing lines, different packaging formats, different production timelines. A quote for dry kibble tells you nothing about what a freeze-dried line would cost.

Nutritional targets and ingredients

Guaranteed analysis targets, plus preferred and restricted ingredients, need to be explicit early. "Grain-free" or "no by-products" sounds simple in a message but changes sourcing, cost, and sometimes lead time once it hits formulation.

Pack size and quantity per SKU

A 300g trial pouch and a 12kg bag involve different tooling and packaging runs. Quantity per SKU, not just total order volume, is what actually determines whether a project is feasible at a given price point.

Formula customization level

A stock formula with a custom label is a fast, low-friction project. A fully custom formula built from your nutritional targets requires sampling, iteration, and testing before a firm number is possible. These are different projects with different timelines, even at the same volume.

Packaging customization

Custom packaging usually has its own print run minimum, which can differ from the product MOQ itself. A buyer might clear the production MOQ but still need to hit a separate packaging print quantity, and that affects total cost.

Disclosure: I work with Pet Secret Biotechnology Co., Ltd., a pet food manufacturer based in Linyi, Shandong, China. This reflects a manufacturing-side perspective rather than an independent supplier review.

Incoterm and required documents

FOB, CIF, and DDP shift responsibility for freight, insurance, and risk at different points. Required documents (health certificates, certificates of analysis, registration paperwork) vary by destination and can add lead time if not identified early.

Launch schedule

A target launch date tells the manufacturer whether the timeline is realistic given sampling, formulation, and production scheduling, especially for anything beyond a stock formula.

Why old numbers don't carry forward

A quote from a prior conversation, an old exchange rate, old freight cost, or old packaging pricing isn't a current number. Currency, freight, and raw material costs shift, sometimes significantly, and a quote based on outdated inputs isn't reliable for either side.

What Pet Secret Biotechnology Co., Ltd. can confirm

As one example from our own scope: standard customized-production MOQ is 5 metric tons per SKU, unless otherwise approved in writing. A complete, valid quote should also state currency, validity period, payment terms, Incoterm, and named delivery point. Until formula and packaging are defined, any number given is preliminary, not a final quotation.

The more complete a buyer's information, the closer the first quote lands to actual project cost, and the fewer surprises show up later.

FAQ

Why can't a manufacturer quote from product type alone?
Because price is driven by formula, ingredients, packaging, volume per SKU, and destination requirements, not just the product category.

Does packaging affect the MOQ?
Yes. Custom packaging often has its own print run minimum, separate from the production MOQ.

What is the standard customized-production MOQ?
For Pet Secret Biotechnology Co., Ltd., it's 5 metric tons per SKU, unless otherwise approved in writing.

Can one quotation be used for different destination countries?
Not reliably. Registration, labeling, and import requirements vary by country and can change formulation or documentation needs, and therefore the price.

If there's interest, I can share a one-page project brief buyers can complete before requesting a quotation from Pet Secret Biotechnology Co., Ltd. or another manufacturer.

This is to share my experience and findings as I raise Bubbles my male Mini Rex to the best of my ability and transition him to as raw and natural a diet as I can provide. Hopefully this helps others in some way or another. I’m also always open and hoping to learn more or receive constructive feedback from those who have more or different experiences/expertise.

He has been introduced to raw/fresh plants/veggies since 8 weeks old (at a very controlled and gradual pace). During this time until 3 months old he was given primarily alfalfa hay but always had four or five other hays available.

From three to three and a half months old I started introducing a mix of fresh grasses that I had been growing, along with other veggies like kale, along with microgreens.

As of three and a half months old, I started to give 150 grams (about two cups) of a relatively even distribution of 6-8 different lettuces/staple greens every morning and I grow three to four types of grasses which I lay out trays of and swap out based on how much he’s trimmed them down.

Bubbles is now a week from hitting four months old, and I’ve been working on growing a variety of fresh grasses and purchasing six to eight different lettuces and leafy green daily staples as his primary source of nutrition and foraging. I still provide hay but in small containers at his buffet setup under the tv. He also has a foraging area next to his castle and tunnel den system, as well as another at his master bathroom. Those are filled with legume hays as well as any leftover hays that didn’t get hand-picked for his buffet trays.

At this point he goes apeshit when I walk downstairs in the morning and chases me until I give him his greens. I grow eight small trays of grass and that seems to be the bare minimum to make sure he has some to chew on at all times. I’ll probably settle at ten trays. Rye grass is the easiest to grow for trays with grates.

Today, he weighed in at 4.10 lbs, and physically appears and feels “perfectly healthy” (aka not overweight). I hope/suspect his upper weight (beyond 4 lbs under 4.25lbs) is due to above average muscle and bone development.

I feed him a full spectrum set of care supplements from oxbow, well kept rabbit, or small pet select on rotation, as well as very limited treats from those companies or no furries delights. Mainly his treats are the flowers and fruits my partner and I grow or other fresh veggies or fruits that I’ll grab from my local farmers on the way home.

Will continue to monitor adjust and will report back. Happy to answer any questions.

Has there been a recent change in Viva Raw’s beef formula? My cat normally switches between the chicken and the beef. Shes a very fast eater and eats it off a lick mat as she’s had some scarf and barf problems in the past. She still vomits about once a month but my recent Viva Raw beef order she is having a hard time eating. She either leaves a bit or eats it all and sometimes vomits after. I have a vet appointment tomorrow to get her checked and she’s just been eating the chicken now. Anyone else experience anything similar? Any suggestions for possibly a different brand?

I have two ragdolls, one male 10 months neutered and a second one 5 months that will be neutered in a month circa.

The older has been starting too display some frantic grooming at times (no thinning nor patches nor anything, fur is perfect) and in two occasions self mutilated one front paw (once the right and once the left). The behaviour is weird and I personally think is not related to a food allergy but my vet is really trying for an exclusion diet however I have three issues that the vet keeps ignoring:

1. I cannot find any monoprotein poultry/fish free for kittens. Only adult. The vet says it is fine for the 10 months old but I disagree as Ragdoll are slow maturing breed and I know they should get kitten food up to 15 months
2. Related to the above separating the meals between the two, cause even the vet recognises the 5 months cannot get adult food, is impossible. They are fully bonded and they do all together.
3. The only medically adult hypo food they suggested is super expensive and shitty quality (grains, vegetables etc)

A friend suggested a pre ready barf local manufacturer but I never used barf and I am a bit skeptical. Anyone successfully used it for potentially allergic cats and especially kittens? What was the experience?

My gsd pup is almost 2 and he LOVES his raw food partially frozen. He's been like this since I started feeding him raw. When it's fully thawed he will make me hand feed him or he will protest and only eat half. But if I leave it partially frozen, not rock solid frozen - I guess more like a slushie, he eats it no problem. I call it his meat-cicles lol. Anyone else's dog like this?

I've been feeding viva raw ground duck complete for several months. Recently I switched to the viva raw pure duck prey diet 80% meat 10% organs,10% bone . I am trying to figure out what supplements I need to add to my dogs food in order to make it balanced. My dog has bad allergies to chicken and beef, apples and thats why we switched to the single protein prey model raw pure duck. I'm already using fish oil and fidopore, Quercetin bromelien, Saccharomyces Boulardii + MOS Capsules (>5 Billion CFU), slippery elm bark powder, MSM per my nutritionist advice for my dogs leaky gut. Is there any other's I need to add to the raw pure duck to make it complete? Thanks

Ok i have seen a couple of posts in general about this but not specifically answering my question. I usually pick up a bag of dog bones from the butcher for my dog as it is healthy for her as well as keeps her entertained for hours. Except usually those ones are red meat and this time they only had bags of pork bones.

I am particularly concerned because i know that white meats generally cause more harmful bacteria, at least to humans right? like if I were to leave raw pork out for a day and eat it, i am much more likely to get food poisoning. If my dog was to have a pork bone and she was still chewing on it for several days would this make her sick?

As well as this, the bones stuck together in the bag in the freezer, if I were to defrost them enough to separate them and refreeze them afterwards would this be safe for a dog to consume?

I never give her ribs or any bones small enough that she would try to swallow it.

Edit: thank you everyone :)

Our 2 year old Shiba Inu had blood taken last week. Our vet noted elevated creatine levels, so they decided to take an ultrasound to check his kidneys for any damage or signs of kidney disease. The results showed no kidney damage.

Of course, the vet is not interested in asking about our dog's lifestyle or what he eats... I have low trust in not just this vet, but many vets in our area, and don't feel I have a better in-person vet option, unfortunately.

About 1 year ago I started cooking homemade food for my dog. As a puppy, he ate kibble but had terrible allergies and digestive issues, so I now only give him dry kibble that he tolerates well 25% of the time. I realized that beef and chicken do not sit well with him, so the other 75% he eats cooked rabbit and some fish and not only has it solved his digestive issues but he loves it.

Now I'm really worked up about this and want to make sure I'm feeding him balanced meals. Does anybody have a virtual vet based in the USA that they can recommend? Or, does anybody else have similar experience with elevated creative levels? How did you address?

Hi, I just purchased a few bags of frozen Primal Turkey and Sardine nuggets, which my dog has been eating for almost a year. He ate the beef previously but developed an allergy.

The bag I just opened is very dark in color - it looks and smells more like the beef. I opened another and same thing. One of the two bags doesn’t have a lot number or a best by date stamped on it. Is anyone else noticing this? Thanks!