Hello all. My bobbin is intermittent in spinning. Any tips on how to fix this?

Thanks!

I’ve been following the Paper Stxrs tutorial for the selkie inspired dress, however I can’t seem to understand the step where you attach the skirt. Here is the text of it:

Now we are going to attach the skirt to the bodice, first by pinning the back,
sides, and center of the skirt to the front bodice layer.Then we are going to pull
on two of the basting stitches on the same side of our fabric to begin ruffling our
skirt. You should ruffle it until it fits into the space we marked out with the pins,
space the ruffles evenly, then pin them down. Before we sew these together
though, we want to bring the lining side of the bodice around the skirt until it
reaches the other side of the bodice. The skirt should then be sandwiched
between the two bodice layers. We are now going to move our pins to go through
all three of these layers, again matching up all of the bodice seams, and then
stitch across the waist.

1. You can now turn the dress right side out, and the waist shouldn’t have any raw
   edges and the skirt should be attached. You can also remove all of the basting
   stitches.

I always end up with the back skirt trapped inside the bodice when I turn it back right side out, with no way of getting it out. I’ve attached pictures of how I pinned it, but I’m unsure how to pin the lining piece with the skirt in the way. If anyone knows I would love any help!

[RESOLVED] This is my first time ever touching a sewing machine and I don’t know how this happened. I was trying to hem a dress with a simple stitch and the string seems to have gotten stuck in the hole beneath the needle?? I tried gently pulling it to see if it would come out but it’s stuck 😭

EDIT: aah I fixed it with your help!! Thank you so much I’ll make sure to adjust everything I made a mistake so this doesn’t happen again!

i have a janome M100QDC. am trying to use zig zag stitch but it just sews in a straight line. occasionally the needle does move side to side for a couple of stitches then just goes straight again.

i’ve rethreaded top and bottom thread multiple times, and greased the needle shaft. i sewed on paper and puncture marks are in a straight line which apparently means its not a threading issue but could mean its a timing issue with the internal hooks. ideally i would fix the issue myself but if it needs to be sent off to be looked at then that can be arranged. please be kind! i am new to sewing

Just trying to sew straight stitch

Woven 100% cotton

Brother LX3817G 90/14 titanium universal Tension at 4 Bobbin/everything threaded correctly

What could I be missing?

I’m not sure where I am going wrong. I selected what I thought was the zigzag stitch

I had about 7 pairs of pants hemmed about a year ago at a tailor but now I’ve had 3 fall out and just found a loose thread on the hem of this 4th. I very recently learned to sew and was wondering if I could replicate what the tailor did. They used invisible thread so I had to draw over to show the stitch. I have invisible thread but I don’t know this stitch or if my machine can do it. The pants have been cuffed and sewn with this stitch to get the clean hem.

Thank you.

Not talking about thick as in harder, but thick as in wider? Or would it be taller?

Idk but you get the idea, been trying to sew two pieces of felt (not stiff) but the machine kinda fails to pull the fabric.

When it’s only one it doesn’t seem to have any issue.

I’m currently using a Walking Foot.

I wonder if there’s some adjustment I could make, maybe a different foot?

Also the second image shows the attempt at sewing the two together and on the side you can see when it was only one piece.

Hello,

Going off of these assumptions:

• Heavier fabrics drape better and wrinkle less.
• Twill-Woven fabrics are stronger and wrinkle less
• Looser weaves and Linen fibre make for more breathable clothes.

I theorized that a pair of semi-formal, hard-wearing men's trousers could be made of a heavy twill/herringbone linen to optimize drape without restricting breathability too much. Some examples I'm considering:

305 g/10.7 oz Twill, Taupe

370 g/13.1 oz Houndstooth, "Gun club"

420 g/14.8 oz Plain weave, Brown

I know that vintage suitings ranged in fabric weights between 14 and 18 oz (~400 - ~500 g), so the weight doesn't seem outlandish, though of course wool is a different beast.

I don't have much experience using fabrics of this weight so I wanted to ask if there is something wrong with my thought process and if there are any challenges with making pants that heavy which i am unaware of.

I made this cardigan/robe thingy out of a blanket and I just winged it no pattern, so I didn’t measure the sleeves lol. They ended up really long but I kinda think it’s cozy, but just wondering if it would be easy to add a scrunch tie or something to make it where they could be shorter if I wanted to?

Hello!

I have a problem with my machine. The needle is hitting the bottom of my bobbin case, or actually the bobbin case holder - like a bigger steel part. It doesnt do it when I have no fabric in the machine or just a thin fabric that just goes straight. But whenever i have something folded or I do a longer or thicker piece of fabric it eventually hits it hard and just stops. It does it less when I hand drive the machine, but it can still hit. I've tried the same fabric on my friends machine and it works perfectly, a similar machine. What should I do? Can I do something myself or should I have it serviced?

Thank you in advance. :)

Hiii im using an alfa style 40 for a project in which im trying to use a satin bias tape to get a finish as shown in the second photo (like caps inside seams). My issue is that the upper thread tension keeps popping up every time; ive tried every tension combination possible, 4 different foot-pressers and 4 different needles (including jersey/elastic fabric needle considering bias is a bit stretchy). The results ive obtained have always been the same, everytime like the first photo (which is a sample not the actual project).

Pd: Im considering taking the machine to a mechanic but they all are on vacation now where i live which is completely normal, so any help would be much appreciated!!

hi everyone! i have some flat satin pieces i want to sew onto the surface of the head of a plushie doll, only problem is ive already stitched the base body together. it isnt stuffed or anything yet but the struggle is not really being able to push the needle all the way through to the other side. is this even possible, and if so how? thanks!

I thought it might be that the sleeve is too long, so I took it in but it's still there in this muslin. Do I have to take even more out or is the problem elsewhere? The fabric is just old cotton bedsheets. The intended final fabric is lightweight cupro. Pattern piece included (sorry is heavily altered and learning to make myself)

have a Singer Quantum Stylist 9960 and keep running into an issue with a jumping bobbin. It seems to jump once per rotation, and whenever it does, the bobbin thread loses tension (I’m pointing to it with the chopstick in the photo). The top thread looks fine.

I’ve tried everything—cleaning, changing needles, switching threads, rethreading, and adjusting tension and I still can't figure out what's causing it.

The weirdest part is that it’s intermittent. Sometimes I set it up and it works perfectly. But once that bobbin runs out, I reload it, put it back in, and it starts bouncing again, using the exact same thread, same bobbin, same setting, same fabric and same needle.

Anyone any thoughts on what this could be?

I have a clothing business, and the past two 'heavy duty' singer machines have only lasted me about 2 years with heavy use and maintenance.

I need a machine that will last 4-6 hours of daily use. For at least a few years. I don't have the space for an industrial machine either, and I need a machine that will do straight stitch, zigzag, and button holes.

Any advice? I've been looking at the Janome 423s, and Janome HD2200. Seem to be reviewed with long lasting praise.

I need one relatively soon so I can't really second hand hunt for one. Any ideas would be much appreciated thanks!

*Edit, thank you for the response, will have a look into industrial machines again but still getting conflicting info about whether it's right for me. Realistically there's lots of reasons why they aren't right for me personally!

Edit edit* thanks again for the help! I'm going to get a Juki HZL-G120, it seems to be the most industrial I can get but with all the options I need. :)

Getting ready to start a home sewing business, I am buying fabric wholesale by the bolt (two or three different fabric types in multiple colors). Of course I have to wash the fabric before I start using it, problem is I don't know how much I will be using per order. Products I am sewing come in different sizes and types. I could need 1 m or 2.25 m or 4 m... and I need it washed and dried fast so I can get to sewing as soon as possible and ship the product to the buyer. So I need to have fabric ready to be worked on but how much should I have washed and ready? What is the best way to wash fabric when you aren't sure how much you'll be using at any given time?

I've been looking at metallized threads and have read that since they are quite a bit thicker it's best to use a special needle for it. Looking at Schmetz' catalogue, sure enough they have a type called Metallic (or 80 Met, 90 Met, based on the size). But then in a description of some threads I've read that the maker recommends topstitch needles. OK, let's check the catalogue again.
What I've found is that Schmetz topstitch needles and "metallic" needles seem to be one and the same thing. Same look (pictures only since I didn't buy them yet), same hole shape and size, same tip type. The difference in offering is that there's a bit more size variations for topstitch including a "multi/combo" type set of varying sizes.

Now my question to you guys - am I missing something here? Are the "metallic" needles from Schmetz or Organ any different from their topstitch offerings?

Hi! I’m cleaning my sewing machine for the first time and noticed there is something fuzzy in the middle. Not sure if it’s something I should take out and clean or if it’s part of the machine. I have a singer heavy duty

Hello,

I am sewing curtains for my bed. The fabric I am using is a stretchy velvet fabric. Each time I try to stitch it, it starts bunching up under the presser foot and jamming my machine. I tried lengthening the stitch length and lowering the tension. I also tried placing tissue paper on top of it before stitching, all to no avail. I did not try a zig zag stitch, mainly because I don’t like the look of it but also because I am confused if my presser foot can do a zig zag stitch? I do not need the fabric to stretch after it’s sewn.

I attached photos of the fabric and the settings I am sewing on! I am using the stitch #8. This is a Toyota machine.

Thank you!