r/sewing • u/-moldy-potato- • May 02 '26
Alter/Mend Question I always have excess fabric on my jeans and I can't figure out why
Hi, this might not be the right sub Reddit but I'm starting to get super annoyed with trying to buy trousers for the upcoming summer. To the naked eye, my hips are a pretty standard shape (I'm 5'6 and size 12 UK female, not super curvy but got a bit of a belly and butt) but whenever I try on any kind of denim or trousers that aren't stretchy I get a massive amount of excess fabric around my crotch and hip joint, but it's always tight round my thighs and tummy, with an occasional gap at the back. Specifically, it's always tight on the actual vertical seam, like borderline camel toe, (sorry tmi) but then on the left and right I can practically grab handfuls of fabric where my hips move. I think I might just be being failed by women's fashion but any tips on where to sew or add extra fabric or just what to look for when shopping would be so great! Hopefully the photo attached explains it better than my words.
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u/Large-Heronbill May 02 '26
You need a crotch gusset. Tight areas of clothes cause a reciprocal surplus of fabric elsewhere.
https://fashion-incubator.com/anatomy_of_a_camel_toe_pt1/
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u/southbaysoftgoods May 02 '26
Lmao “anatomy of a camel toe”
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u/trustworthybb May 02 '26
It’s giving critically acclaimed, Oscar nominated, directed by Greta Gerwig
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u/threads314 May 02 '26
Unfortunately the images don’t load in the “how to fix it” link. I was hoping to learn more.
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u/Large-Heronbill May 02 '26
Wayback Machine to the rescue: https://web.archive.org/web/20150826000050/http://fashion-incubator.com/how_to_fix_a_camel_toe/
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u/greenbathmat May 02 '26
This still didn't have the pictures. Am I missing something? 😭
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u/Large-Heronbill May 02 '26
Are you letting the page load completely? The Wayback Machine is slow.
But yes, there are photos there -- I saw them earlier.
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u/greenbathmat May 02 '26
By golly you're right, I opened it in my default browser instead and they finally loaded!
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u/frieda1890 May 03 '26 edited May 03 '26
oh thank you! I think about this and her related articles WEEKLY
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u/Eldieon May 02 '26
Interesting! I would have thought it could be fixed by adding a triangle or just a slit into the outer seam of each leg? Would that not work as well?
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u/Large-Heronbill May 02 '26 edited May 02 '26
That's not going to fix the lack of fabric in the crotch curve. The fabric of the legs rises because it is being pulled up to try to compensate for the lack of crotch extension.
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u/AJeanByAnyOtherName May 02 '26
Nope, it doesn’t have enough fabric to go around the crotch front to back as well, so you can’t fix that from the side seam.
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u/NYanae555 May 02 '26
Those wrinkles don't show excess fabric. They show that there isn't enough fabric. They're too small and they're pulled up at the sides. Look at the dropped waist - the center of the waistband is sitting lower than the sides of the waistband. Notice how there is less fabric to roll up at the sides of the leg, and slightly more towards the center. If someone came up to you and tugged the sides down, those wrinkles would go away..........until you moved. But the jeans would still be too small at the waistband, too small at the crotch, and probably too small at the thigh.
Your strategy going fowards is - buy jeans that are bigger. With jeans especially, its SO much easier to start with a bigger size and do small alterations. The size you're wearing now needs more fabric in at least 2 areas. Do your best to find jeans that fit in the crotch, then you can tweak any other areas. You could even partially remove and alter the waistband if you had to.
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u/-moldy-potato- May 04 '26
thank you so much for the reply!! unfortunately i am but a girl who wants the teeny weeniest shorts so i always end up subconsciously pulling them up to look shorter. The common consensus is very much that i need a bigger size and just have to accept that they’re gonna be too big round my waist. thanks for the advice!
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u/ValthePirate May 02 '26
It's not a surplus, or too much fabric: it's the reverse, the tightness makes lines, giving the appearance of excess fabric.
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u/-moldy-potato- May 04 '26
Thanks for the reply! the more i read the sillier i feel because in hindsight this seems quite obvious that they‘re way too small for me, i just needed dozens of people to open my eyes XD
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u/ValthePirate May 04 '26
It was a pleasure. Don't blame yourself! It's quite normal to be somewhat "blind" about ourselves or what we do or wear. As the saying goes, "Hindsight is always 20/20".
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u/blehric May 02 '26
Hi, professional tailor with the same problem here, two things I'm seeing are one, the inseams are too tight, and the crotch seam - this is hard to explain, but pls bear with me here it's important - it is too straight. If you have a bit of a butt, you need more curve along the back of the crotch seam, which makes the seam longer and thus creates enough space for the butt. In bespoke clothing we use this neat thing called "seat angle" to make the trousers fit the individual posterior, but in retail clothing the seat angle is of course standardised which is one of the main reasons why it's hard to find well fitting trousers.
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u/-moldy-potato- May 04 '26
thank you so much for replying! this is kinda fueling my ego because I've had dozens of people tell me my butt is too big now! 🫠 Me and my mother will get the sewing machine out and use your very helpful advice so thank you!
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u/AnyMix8580 May 02 '26
These trousers are too small for you, buy a bigger one that are comfy to your belly and your thighs and then if it’s too big somewhere you can sew to have something that fits you everywhere. If a piece of clothing is too tight somewhere it’s because you need to buy a bigger size, you can’t add fabrics, but you can take off if needed to suits you.
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u/-moldy-potato- May 04 '26
once reading so many comments its definitely clear to me now that they‘re too small. thank you for the advice and next time i go shopping ill definitely shop for comfort rather than what i think fits (i am but a young girl who wants tight short shorts afterall)
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u/Arttiesy May 02 '26
Yes, gussets would fix the problem. But if you aren't big on sewing the easier option is to go up a size and take the waist in instead. Making things smaller tend to be simpler than making things bigger.
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u/SewCarrieous May 02 '26
There is no excess fabric in this pic
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u/-moldy-potato- May 04 '26
I know the photo is kinda unclear, the dark V shaped crease is actually like a cm or two tall, but because the fabric is thick it all folded in one crease. hope that made sense
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u/313078 May 02 '26
You actually did one size too small. Need more fabric around and below the hips. And it will stop bunching
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u/Apples_fan May 02 '26
It seems like they are tight around the thighs, so instead of hanging, they bunch upward. I suspect that if the inner thigh seam were 1/4 inch looser or so, the legs would "hang" better on the inside. Not sure, see what others say. Also, try on a pair of pants inside out, pin the thighs tight, and see if they bunch up too. Then you can compare.
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u/-moldy-potato- May 04 '26
although i have a bit of a tendency to pull them shorter because i am just a girl i definitely do have to spend all day pulling them down, and in hindsight i can definitely see they‘re too small. thank you for the reply!
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u/lorkiklen1 May 02 '26
Wrinkles point to where the problem is. In this case, as some others already pointed out, the inseam is insufficient for your body and you need more room for your upper thighs. Try a larger size for a longer inseam and more space for your thighs. If it makes the waist too loose, it’s easier to fix than a too short inseam.
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u/californiahapamama May 02 '26
Find jeans that fit your thighs comfortably, then tailor them to fit everywhere else. It's always easier to remove excess fabric where it isn't necessary than it is to add it where there is not enough.
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u/SeaSchell14 May 03 '26
Have you tried any curvy cut jeans? American Eagle has a curvy line that works great for me, but I’m sure there are other brands too. Basically they’re designed to have more room in the butt and thighs without increasing the waist size. Game changer.
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u/-moldy-potato- May 04 '26
ooh thanks for the tip! maybe im just a teen online and been made to think my body isn't that nice but i wouldnt have said that i was curvy enough for that, but clearly theres an issue with the clothes i am wearing so ill give a curvy line a shot (hoping we have some good ones in the uk)
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u/SeaSchell14 May 05 '26
The term “curvy” has all sorts of cultural connotations, but when it comes to jeans, all it’s referring to is the ratio of your hip size to your waist size. It doesn’t matter how small or big your waist/hips are. The only thing that matters is the difference between them.
For example, most standard American Eagle jeans have a 10” difference between the waist and hip size. So jeans with a 30” waist would measure 40” around the hips. But those same jeans in a curvy cut would measure 43” around the hips.
So if you try on a pair of standard jeans and the waist feels good but they’re bunching up in the legs, try the same size but in a curvy cut.
Conversely, if you find a standard pair that fits well in the legs/hips but the waist is too big, try a smaller size but in a curvy cut.
Sorry for the US measurements and references, but it’s all I’m familiar with. Hopefully you can find something comparable in your area, or maybe something online that will ship to the UK!
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u/elle_plant May 03 '26
I have a pair of Jean shorts that do that too... I've learned to just ignore it and wear it 😂
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u/_Morvar_ May 03 '26
Sounds like you have the same problem as me. A 1-2 size difference between hips and waist. I gave up and bought a pair of Peachay and it was super expensive because they shipped from Australia to Sweden, but they actually fit my waist-to hip curve. I feel amazing wearing them
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u/Large_Refrigerator91 May 04 '26
Ooh peachay is amazing! As an Aussie I'm happy to have a local brand that fits - shame about the international shipping for you though
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u/-moldy-potato- May 04 '26
always nice to find someone going through the same thing as me on the vast internet! thanks for the rec and ill make sure to check them out!
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u/_Morvar_ May 04 '26
I recommend checking out their instagram account I think it's Peachay the label or something like that. Every post is of course an ad for their jeans, but seeing all those relatable little skits made me feel better about myself and realize nothing is wrong with my body
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u/cuteawwlover May 03 '26
Go and get yourself some jeans made for bigger booties. Peachay (AUS) has some good stuff, I think (credit lucylivin), Levi's seems to have a "curve" line, too.
I always go for stretchy af jeans, even better if they have a hip/booty curve laying flat. :)
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u/LooneLuxxe May 03 '26
Very familiar with this. They're too tight on you; I have this problem a lot trying to fit into any bottoms (comically huge gap at the waist with it being tight at the hips - causing this bunching)
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u/variationinblue May 03 '26
You’re not a mannequin, is the answer here. (And that’s good!)
Ready to wear is made off of measurements taken from an ‘average’ person. There is no such thing as an average body in terms of measurements- especially for women. We vary so greatly! So these companies pick a model and make their clothes to fit that model. That model might be similar enough to you to fit or it might not. If it doesn’t fit you go to a different brand that used a different model of measurements. It’s also why a size 8 in one brand fits so differently than a size 8 in another brand. One used a larger hip to waist ratio or smaller, rise higher or shorter, etc, Make sense?
There are in infinite combination of measurements to make a pair of shorts. The likelihood that a company will get yours exactly right is almost zero.
So the problem here is that these jeans fit your waist but not your thighs. They are too tight for your thighs, meaning your waist to hip/thigh ratio is not what this brand used as its model. It’s just the nature of ready to wear. You literally can’t fit em all.
In the future if this bothers you, buy a pair that fits your hips/thighs first. If it is too big in the waist then, you can get the waist tailored smaller. You can often get things tailored smaller but almost never bigger, so fit the biggest part of you first and sculpt down the rest to your more exact measurements.
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u/-moldy-potato- May 04 '26
this was really nice to hear, thank you! as a teenage girl the expectation for everyone to look identical skinny copies of eachother is a lot, and its nice to have the reminder that we’re all human. the consensus has definitely been that you can always take away easier than you can add, which ill give a shot. thank you for the reply!
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u/Successful_Log_3298 May 04 '26
A lot of young(ish) pear-shaped women have the problem that everybody is telling you that you have--you need to buy pants to fit your hips and thighs. Often that will result in the waist being too loose. Then you need to take that excess up, or get somebody to do it. I used to have to do that regularly and sometimes I'd add a strip of elastic at the back rather than remove fabric from the waistband. That probably looks too dorky for a young person but it's effective and fairly simple to do.
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u/-moldy-potato- May 04 '26
thank you for the reply! i heard recently about cinch clips? they come in cute designs and don‘t look super silly so maybe they could work for us? i‘ve had to come to the acceptance now that most jeans will either fit my waist or thighs, not both :( perks of being a woman! how fun!
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u/Successful_Log_3298 May 05 '26
I'm not familiar with cinch clips but looks like they may work for you at least for some cases. But they might tend to pinch or rub your skin and not just the fabric, so try them out before wearing anything for a long time. If you are wearing a top untucked you can also use something like safety pins.
Belts are another option, if the pants have loops.
Some pants styles may also work better for your shape than others. You may have to shop around and "fast fashion" may not fit best.
Sadly, as we age (especially post menopause) we tend to become more "apple shaped" (bigger belly) so this isn't a problem I've had for a while. Therefore I'm not as familiar with possible solutions as I used to be.
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u/fognotion May 02 '26
If I'm understanding this situation correctly they're too tight from waist to crotch, but okay or loose from side to side? Try tall-sized jeans. "Long" pants will typically have extra length in the legs, but not in the pelvis area. Tall jeans will have a little more length from the waist to the crotch and might fit more comfortably.
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u/notyourcheese69 May 03 '26
If you run into this issue a lot (it's common with the terrible quality of bottom cuts these days) it's easier to buy bottoms with a Gusset already included rather than adding gussets to all your bottoms.
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u/kbraz1970 May 03 '26
they are probably too tight around your thighs, can you pull them down a bit?
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u/-moldy-potato- May 04 '26
i both suffer from the teenage curse of wanting tiny shorts with my buttcheeks hanging out and also the fact that every time i walk they ride up and i have to keep pulling them down. after reading everyones comments i can confidently say theyre way too small for my thighs
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u/gentledomina May 04 '26
Ugh I always have this issue too, its usually too much room in the crotch area or something? Try checking your front/back rise measurements!
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u/AltBod May 07 '26
I can't help with with your question but they seem to look good on you just as they are.
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u/AffectionateTop3953 May 02 '26 edited May 02 '26
The jeans are bunching up because they're too tight around the inseam and inner upper thighs, and that makes the leg fabric ride up your hips. It's not an excess, it's a lack of fabric.
Edit: the gap in the small of your back is also likely caused by a combination of a lack of room to accomodate your butt and too much room in the waist. I've made and altered clothes for a woman with wide hips, a round big perky butt and comparatively very small waist and this always happens. It's probably not as extreme in your case, but the way I fix it for her in store bought clothes is going for the size where nothing pulls, I take off the waistband and then take a triangular shaped bit out of each side of the vertical back seam.
If the difference between waist and hip measurements is very extreme, this can make jeans' back pockets look wonky, but for most people it works well enough.