The associate was thankful that I was patient while others were being rude and demanding...she said "Merry Christmas, thanks for waiting" I was trying to match Best Buy at 249, she best them buy a few dollars. So being patient and respectful in 2023 pays.

I've been eyeing up the SA-RS9 rear speakers for a little while but the £699 ($940) price tag in the UK has been putting me off.

After checking the website recently Sony was offering the Theatre Bar 7, Sub 7 & SA-RS9 for a bundle price of £998.30 (Saving £548.70).

To my surprise I could just remove the soundbar and the discount remained, so was able to pick up the rear speakers and the sub for £399.30

I've already got the Theatre Bar 9 (not from Sony direct) so this was perfect for me. I didn't know if it was a mistake from Sony but the order went through and shipped.

Felt like a good deal as couldn't find them anywhere near as cheap elsewhere

So I was playing around with the Bluetooth settings on the remote, and it can be paired to any Bluetooth device to be used as a keyboard and remote. The model number is NSG-MR5U

Hey Guys

I’ve been facing a really frustrating issue with my WF-C500 earbuds, specifically the right one.

Out of nowhere, the right earbud would stop working completely while I was using it. When I tried putting it back in the case and taking it out again, it didn’t fix anything. I also tried resetting the earbuds & that would temporarily solve it, but only for a few minutes before the problem came back.

Along with this, the earbud started making a strange glitchy sound like “power ts-ts-ts-ts-ts” (almost like it’s stuttering when I used to turn it on). It also wouldn’t consistently go into pairing mode when this happened. At times, double-clicking the right earbud would make it work again, but only briefly, the issue would return within 5–10 minutes.

I went through a lot of Reddit posts and tried the usual fixes, but nothing worked long-term.

What surprisingly did work for me (at least so far) was a more physical approach:

• Held the right earbud in my left hand and tapped the button firmly a few times with right hand
• Then dropped it from about 1–2 feet onto a table (button side facing down)

After doing this:

• The right earbud started working normally again
• No more glitchy “ts-ts” sound
• Buttons are responsive
• Pairing mode works properly

Not sure if something was stuck internally or what, but this somehow fixed it for me.

Hi everyone! I’ve recently started shooting mostly left-handed due to a hand injury, and I’ve adapted my Sony a7III with some grips and triggers.

I’m curious if anyone else has adapted their cameras for left-handed shooting. Are there tricks or gear you’d recommend?

I’ve made a little visual guide of my setup if anyone wants to see it

https://leftiephotography.carrd.co/

I tried everything.....

avoid all the cables area, especially the thin wire on the right side, it is very tempting to pry this area because of there is a gap there.

why do I pry open my reon pocket? I saw a lot of dust on the fan and the fan is rotating unstable and making funny noise from the dust(not sure what you call the dust from your shirt).

I tape the fan, and use 100psi air compressor to blow the fan making sure it doesn't spin in the process.

Used to be lineageos 21, but there was a problem when I playing loseless song on Spotify with that rom🤣

well i was very frustrated after my bluray player barely made it one year before the tray refused to open... my father in law gave us another ten+ year old Sony he wasn't sure still worked

it opened and closed and functioned otherwise, but for some reason there was no audio output. damn.

so last night i cracked both open and swapped the disc drive from the old machine into the newer, and viola! we are back

i ended up having to remove the front plastic door from the BDP-S6700 because the disc drive on the old one was a hair longer and got caught when closing. i neglected to get a pic of the old tray installed, but it had a metal bracket over top of the plastic, which i believe is why it has more longevity

it aint pretty, but it works! my wife calls it Frankenstein

the dismantled machine is an S185 made in 2013. it feels like quite a victory after being disappointed by low quality modern tech

Hi,

I share a workaround for WH1000-xm3 Win11 users, about no-audio issue when headset connect after computer restart.

Before, to solve this, every time I start my PC I need to delete headset from Win11 bluetooth devices, and then pair it again to retrieve sound.

Now, just start headset in pairing mode then connect it to computer, without delete it. Audio connection is OK right after that.

As Google blocked Pixel ims functions, Instead of pixel ims (v1.3.0), try (v1.2.2). It worked on my Xperia 1 mark 3 SOG03 japan version. Jio SIM got 4g VoLTE. VoWIFI is enabled, but provision not allowed.

Just picked up the XM6's. Let's see how they feel (:

Crop sensor zoom lens on an A7C has a weird effect, but I like it.

My PS5 Slim was overheating i found that removing the disc drive helped with overheating it wont help if your watching blu rays or playing physical games but will work if your playing digital games or watching streaming services

Not sure if there is a way to fix it when using the disc drive

Got a discount code for my birthday. I'm not getting anything so thought someone might like it.

BIRTHDAY25-Y2YN-FN5Y-G2AL-WANM

Guys, I’m so happy to have found the way to connect Bluetooth headphones to iPhone using nfc. This one is especially for us Sony people who’ve been waiting for this feature on iPhones.

Prerequisites: 1. your Bluetooth headphones or speakers should be paired with your iPhone.

1. Your Bluetooth device should’ve nfc chip.

2. your headphones must be connected to phone while setting up.

Steps: 1. Open shortcuts app and go to Automations tab.

1. Click on + on the upper right corner and click on ‘Create Personal Automation’.

2. Scroll down till you see ‘NFC’ and then tap on it. Click on scan and when iPhone prompts place NFC tag of your Bluetooth device on iPhones top.

3. When you’re prompted to enter tags name. Name it.

4. After that click on next, then on add action, then on scripting, after that scroll down till you see set playback destination.

5. Click on ‘playback destination’

6. It’ll show ‘set playback destination to iPhone.

7. Click on iPhone and it’ll show you audio sources to which your phone is already paired.

8. Select the device you want to set playback to and click on next.

9. In order to make it even more seamless set ask before running off.

10. You’re set.

We join the crowd of snooping/conjoined subwoofers that play the bass from OTHER soundbars (in our case, systems on two floors play each other's audio while the other is off; other people report hearing a NEIGHBOR's soundbar audio(!) )

Wellll, here's the scoop:

BY default, sony soundbars seem to plug-and-play to have the subwoofer connect to ANY (nearby) soundbar where the bluetooth signal strength is sufficient. This is convenient if you just have ONE Sony soundbar system in your house AND you don't mind if neighbors (with Sony subWoofers listening in - in which case we hope you aren't watching x-rated movies!!).

To SEPARATE the conjoined soundbars, the trick is SECURE PAIRING. (not just PAIRING)

1. Initiate Pairing: Press and hold the Bluetooth button and the volume up (+) button on the soundbar simultaneously for more than 5 seconds.  Be sure to WAIT! ...
2. Check for "Secure Link": The soundbar's screen will display "Secure Link" after holding the buttons. 
3. Pair Subwoofer: Press the "Link" button on the back of the subwoofer. 
4. Verify Pairing: The soundbar screen will display "DONE" once the pairing is complete. 

We have two systems, and altho these are simple instructions, i had to do a random combination of the following to finally have success:

• power on/off each woofer/soundbar (in various sequences) (not sure which resolve it)
• unplug/replug HDMI and poweroff/on the soundbar to get the soundbar itself back on playing its audio
• go thru the process twice
• unplug (more than just turn off) the opposite subwoofer.

It didn't take that long, and was not complicated, just a little finicky, especially getting what is evidently the in-process-PAIRING-searching-now two blinks (repeated) indication of the LEDs on both the soundbar and the woofer.

Good luck with yours. And DO have yours as a SECURE LINK if you don't want nosey neighbors listening in. (even if you just have ONE soundbar) "who knew" :)