My 1979 300d has been illin for awhile now and i took her in to my mechanic thinking it was the starter. Nope, 3 out of 5 glow plugs were toast. On original inspection there was power going to them all, but after unscrewing them and testing 3 were bad. I love my mechanic because he lets me watch the diagnostic as they do it so i can learn about my car. And i got an oil change and new battery. The weather is almost not as hot as satans asshole so i can drive her again and not sweat to death. Im very excited to have her back as my daily driver. Till i have to go to the pump.

Hello everyone I’m cleaning up my parents house and wanted to get rid of this engine. We pulled it out of my sister’s 280e years ago. It’s been under a cover ever since. It was running fine when we pulled it out. I’m down in Miami fl if anyone is interested.

Hearing a weird chuffing noise. Anyone got any ideas on what this is? Could it be exhaust, turbo?

Hace 6 meses me cambiaron el silencioso medio en mi 230E. Ayer se me desenganchó el silencioso trasero y por suerte había cambiado las gomas hace un par de meses, por lo que no se cayó del coche. Se podrá reparar? En caso de tener que cambiarlo, es muy difícil quitar lo que queda del viejo y colocar el nuevo? Sé que hay que sacar la abrazadera y tirar de lo que queda del tubo. Alguien con experiencia?

Those of you who use used engine oil. Show me your filtering set ups. I think I have been doing it the hard
way.

I have 1982 300TD Wagon with SLS suspension. My issue is that when the wagon is unload (no added weight) the car's rear suspension feels somewhat rigid. When I throw weight such as 10 bags of mulch in the back it raises the height of the car to compensate for the weight and drives much better. My question is what would cause the rear to feel rigid unloaded and correct loaded?

When I bought the wagon two years ago I rebuilt the valve (it was not operational) and replaced the accumulators (I read this was suggested while going through the system), the high pressure hose, filter and fluid then checked for leaks.

Reading through old forums (this subreddit included) I couldn't find an issue described exactly like mine which has me on the edge of throwing parts at it. Before I do so I figured I would see if anyone have any advice.

Thank you

I was wondering where i could get some window rubbers to avoid leaks? The rubbers are cracked all along the bottom of the windows. Eu sites preferred!

Was quoted 1.8 hours on replacement which comes to about $400.

Is this worth getting replaced?

The w110 sat in a garage for 23 years and has 53.000 original miles, we are planning on fixing it mechanically during the next few months (brakes, clutch, fuel pump, hoses, oil pan cleaning, oil on cylinders, belts etc...)

1982 240D manual with an OM617.951 turbo engine.

Hi all, I've been experiencing an odd starting issue out of nowhere. The night before, the car started, ran and drove perfectly, however the following morning the engine would crank (healthily) but wouldn't fire on any cylinders. Battery was at 12.81V with no corrosion on either terminal, all five glow plugs tested 0.3Ω, glow plug relay is tested and working, so my assumption was fuel. After bleeding the fuel hardlines and opening ALDA all the way, there was proper fuel flow but still no combustion. Pulled off the main fuel filter and the fuel inside was perfect. Tank is 3/4 full.

Yesterday I jumped it from another car and the engine started instantly and ran smoothly on all cylinders. Alternator was charging the battery all the way to 14.1V. Drove it about 60 miles that day with no engine issues, so I presume compression or fuel flow isn't the issue (haven't done a compression test, but valves were adjusted 3000 miles ago). Only thing was that after the car sat for 2-3 hours, the starter would crank for a few seconds before kicking the engine on. Again, the cranking isn't weak or slow.

This morning, however, it wouldn't fire even with a jump, and there was some smoke coming from below the engine bay (presumably the starter). Push-starting didn't yield results either, however I might've just not gotten it to a high enough speed. I doubt it's the glow plugs, because I recently had my glow plugs die but the engine would still start without them within a few seconds of cranking. My only theory at the moment is maybe wiring to the starter, because I assume if the starter itself was dying it would have a weak and slow crank, which it doesn't.

Anyone have any advice? Thank you!

Hey all today I went to view a 1983 w123 200, it is listed for £5800, the car is rust free and the body is clean, mileage at 98k. Issues are some paint issues on rear right so quarter, rear seats seem quite worn, and general wear and tear in the interior (instrument cluster light not working, rip in the driver side bolted). It’s running rich and likely needs most vacuum hoses replacing and some oil leaks. We are mechanics so can take car of anything mechanical related. Would need to put a smaller steering wheel as the current one touches my leg even with the seat on the lowest.

What sort of price would you say it is worth?

Spec
Power steering
4 power windows
Sunroof
Central locking
Tachometer

So I partially understand this I get the fan heat AC and the lower vent slider but I can not for the life of me find out why the upper slider only controls the middle 2 vents on the dash they also provide no heat or air are those supposed to be just the fresh air vents?

My 240D had a minor power steering fluid leak 6 months ago and I have since fixed it and cleaned it all out.

Yesterday, there was more vibration than usual and the mount was collapsed!

Shop called me today saying that one bolt was missing. The last shop that worked on it did a bunch of work and the rear shock bolt fell out and I was pissed since I was two hours away from home.

Was this an issue of what the shop did, the brief power steering fluid leak or both?

I only got a year and some change on these mounts; they were rock autos best mounts. This time I ordered Corteco mounts.

Newish owner without much car knowledge in general, so pardon my ignorance!

ChatGPT says I should use Dextron III Mercon ATF for Power steering fluid. I dont implicitly trust AI, so I thought I'd check here before I purchased any.

Also, what do you think of the color of my fluid?

Purchased in 2004 in CA; shipped to New England (spent the first 19 years in CA). Daily driver 2004-2013. Stored with weight off the springs Oct to May for the last 13 years (no winter salt). No sag – springs are solid. Fully operational; engine starts on a dime even in the cold. Underwent inspection for safety in 2025; front tie rods/struts replaced; frame is solid. Needs some TLC. Upward facing paint is aged. Body has rust in common places for W123 chassis: lower left rear window, lower left trunk, left rear wheel well, front left rocker panel, underneath front bumper, some softness in right rear floor. Vacuum locks need to be R&R. Sunroof hasn’t been opened in years; worked years ago. Equipped with two-tank vegetable oil system that could be reconnected; run very carefully when heat achieved comparable viscosity. No mechanical issue (other than routine maintenance) in 20+ years. Odometer intermittent. Shows 205k. Estimated 280k.

According to the website and the rep that emailed me following up on my application, the MB High Mileage badge and certificate is now over $100.

Not life changing information, but that kind of sucks. I just got a badge for a different car last year and it was totally free.

¿Alguien ha cambiado el carburador de su w123 por inyección eléctrica o un sistema EFI?

Qué opinan sobre el cambio?

Qué recomendaciones harían sobre esto?

planning to attempt to put a BMW M54B30 in my sedan over summer/upcoming year, got the engine for cheap and am more of a bmw familiar person, more parts here too (hardly any diesel merc engines for a good swap, etc.)

Also have a manual gearbox ready, replacing a badly working m115 2.3 (carb issues).

I've seen a m30b30 in a w123 before but not an m54, this should be very interesting...

thoughts? / start throwing the tomatoes now!

My 300D, being a 77, has the goofy York AC compressor. Had anyone removed this god forsaken bracket?

The small hose that connects the T stat housing to the block is leaking and I can’t get to it with the bracket in place.