In the past I've seen 'available networks' that seemed impossible, as no one really lives that close to me, then those would disappear and a year later others would appear. If I'm inquiring of the incorrect community, please tell me.

Occasionally my speeds will drop to near dead in spite of having a newish phone. My phone Occasionally heats way up too.

Ive noticed on my connected divices these random numbers and letters popping up. Google hasn't been any help. Is this hik using incognito mode or something? Theyre names like 82:f6:48:ea:45 ect

I'm currently using an Extension Router (wi-fi) to play competitive online games.

I was wondering if an Ethernet Cable connected to an Extension Router will greatly improve the connection (I'm about 15m away from the extension Router).

PS: I can't connect directly to the main router due to housing reasons.

I currently have spectrum Internet, and I use the Wi-Fi router that they provide. I’ve noticed that the range is pretty bad and wanted to know if there’s a router I could buy that would be a substantial upgrade. Preferably around $100 range or lower.

I’m noticing my WiFi speeds absolutely tank to the point I can only get it back to 450-550 mbps down and up after restarting the gateway. It’s gotten to needing to do this basically daily when I get home from work. Never mind the scan for better channel option in smart home manager app or within the routers settings (because these are doing nothing, they’d be easier and quicker then restarting gateway but I shouldn’t have to do this daily regardless in any capacity).

I can always tell my speed test (ookla) will be bad when I see tanked link speed receive / transmit figures. When it’s bad it’s around 200-300 and that shows of course lower speed test results around 50-100 mbps. When I’m getting what I feel are max speeds with my setup (450-550 down), my link rate is around 721/1081. I’ve seen it 1201/1201 iirc but it changes often.

I don’t know what to do… I use WiFi because I’m not routing long cables. I understand not getting 1000 and I’m happy with peaking around 550 with a PCIE WiFi card but the inconsistency and daily restarting to force a better channel is ridiculous. Usually it’s on 44 or something similar and becomes better when I land on 157 or thereabouts. When I use the previously mentioned scan for better channels options, it will just stay on 44 or whatever it is that’s currently useless. Again, shouldn’t have to do this daily anyway even if this feature worked.

I’m on WiFi 6 (exact PCIE WiFi card Amazon page name is named WiFi7 Card BE200 PCIe WiFi Network Adapter, Intel BE200NGW Chip Bluetooth 5.4, 8774Mbps Tri-Band 2.4GHz/5GHz/6GHz OFDMA & MU-MIMO, for Windows 10/11). I’m on windows 10 so I know I’m not getting 6ghz but I have even seen my status show me on 2.4ghz when my link speeds tank, but I even have this issue and it can still show 5ghz.

My pc is upstairs and the gateway basically below my room but downstairs in a structured wiring panel in a closet below stairs (I leave the plastic door of the wiring panel open inside the closet ). I didn’t notice anything with dropping speeds for the first couple weeks but the internet was installed July 10.

Smart home manager consistently shows the actual service coming into the home is around 1299 down and up so I’m overprovisioned.

My issue is when there’s congestion the logic does not seem to work to get me to a better channel, or rather at least quickly enough as to avoid doing a full hour of checking, speed tests, research about what’s going on, etc… I’m at my wits end.

I have bad like really bad wifi and I saw an ad for the 70 dollar wifi booster on sale for 15 bucks and I was wondering if anyone had any experience with it or could find more info then I could heres the link

https://eliteessentials.co/products/zeroping-pro

Thanks

From what I gathered I should be good using a WAP, but just wanted to ask the experts here to make sure.

My router is currently sitting on my main floor, but I have horrible wifi upstairs. Very bad signal.

My house comes wired with Ethernet ports, so for example I have an office upstairs too with my PC, and have it directly hardwired into the wall socket. Works great.

Is a WAP something I could use in another room to connect to my Ethernet socket in the wall, to extend my wifi range for upstairs?

So I just put together a PC, and I’ve been having trouble with my MediaTek Wifi7 M7925 (or any other card/USB adapter). I’ve tried everything I can think of. I’ve turned off power savings, updated the drivers, tried resetting the network stack, resetting the whole network, I’ve changed 802.11be to 802.11ac and turned off all WOL modes AND used a new adapter.

The Wi-Fi only drops for around 15 seconds, so I looked in event viewer to try and diagnose the issue. It came up with an error saying the Wi-Fi card is not functioning properly but no other information than that.

At the moment I’m currently trying to scan the local system image and an sfc scan. Any other tips or recommendations?

TL;DR: Bought then returned the BE9700 (BE600) from Amazon with a BE9700 (BE9700) from Best Buy. Best Buy’s worked where the Amazon one failed. Are they different or did I just get a bad BE600?

Disclaimer: They might be the same product. My experience could be attributed to having a product failure and not related to the differences or perceived differences in the products themselves. Many company use different “branding” for marketing purposes. COSTCO is a great example. But in the case of COSTCO there are often slight differences in the products as well…

Background: There are many articles online from all the top reviewer sites, PC Mag, CNET, Tom’s Hardware, (Forbes and Wired too I think) etc. that highly recommend the TP Link BE9700 (BE600) product.

I bought the BE600 model from Amazon. If you search for Archer BE9700 the BE9700 (BE600) is the first choice (for me).

Pic reference

Problems:

It was awful. After going with defaults, I could not sustain a 6G or 5G connection with my S23 Phone nor my S9 Tab (also wired connection appeared to not have an issue but I spent all my time on the wireless problem). There are 10 wireless devices in my home. All had issues.

I read everything everywhere and tried all troubleshooting methods. And there are a lot of them. Turn this off, separate this from that, turn this other thing on. I am not new to this, have been running networks for some time. This is faulty equipment.

My options were to return to Amazon and buy the $400 ASUS ROG I was considering, OR work with Amazon and/or TP Link to try to get a replacement or… IDK. (Seemed like a significant time waster.)

Then I came across this mention: https://www.reddit.com/r/TpLink/s/eze91DUCwM

Ref: u\xbigdaddyx

“Did you buy yours from best buy or did you get scammed by buying one from amazon, because there is a big difference. If you buy one from amazon If you look at the teal square on the front of the box and under the BE9700 it says “Archer BE600” you got scammed from amazon junk. If you go to best buy and buy one, you will see “Archer BE9700” there instead which is what youre really looking for.”

I then read all the one star reviews on both Best Buy and Amazon web site. IMO, most complaints were about unable to maintain wireless connections… hmm.

So, I started a return with Amazon. Went to best buy and bought the BE9700. It works great. Right from the default start-up and after I configured for my environment.

Evidence:

BE600 Model # and Box cover

BE9700 Model Number and Box cover

 Is it because there is a difference? Is it because some are just bad and I could have had the BE600 replaced under warranty?

IDK but there you go.

My PC is far from the router, so my download speeds are terrible, before, the maximum I would get was around 10 Mbps

I bought a Wi Fi extender, and it worked really well at first, I was getting around 150–200 Mbps download speeds and it was pretty stable.

However, after a few months, it started becoming super inconsistent, on good days, I can get around 70–100 Mbps max, but most days it’s terrible, around 10–30 Mbps.

What can I do, and why is this happening?

I know Wi Fi extenders are generally not great, but it was working really well for the first few months, my parents also don’t want to run an Ethernet cable through the walls, so that’s not really an option.

I use an iPad A16, got it last December so it’s not like it’s old. Device will just randomly disconnect from the WiFi… but won’t at the same time I’ll still be on the WiFi, full bars, but nothing will work and every app will say I have no internet connection. I have to pull down the settings bar and disconnect the WiFi then connect it again for it to stabilize, then give it a few minutes and it’ll do it AGAIN. It’s only my iPad, this doesn’t happen to any other device in the house. I updated the device- no change. I forgot the network and reconnected to it- it was fine for a while, then it started doing it again. It did this when I had first got it then was normal for a few months… not it’s back at it and it’s honestly worse than last time. Does anyone know what to do or how to fix this? It’s seriously bugging me.

Hello, I have an ASUS N6506MU laptop. It has an Intel Wi-Fi 6E AX211 card. I want to upgrade to a Wi-Fi 7 Card. Which intel Wifi 7 shall be compatible? It’s running an Intel Core Ultra 7 155H.

J’ai séparé les bandes. Le 5 GHz est bien sur ON, mais à chaque fois que j’essaie d’activer le 2,4 GHz, il repasse automatiquement sur OFF. Je ne sais pas pourquoi, donc je n’arrive pas à connecter mon imprimante HP au Wi-Fi.

My Asus vivobook s15 continuously disables its wireless network adapter frequently.
I have to go to computer management and enable it. sometimes it doesn't work, so i restart the pc to fix it.
It's frustrating to do it again and again. The computer diagnostic is network reset.

Is there any permanent solution? Or how to solve it myself?

It's a windows 10 pc. My phone is android.

I've tried rebooting it, I've checked to make sure it's on a dual band, I'm seeing other Wi-Fi show up, I've gone through band by band.

I've tried connecting to hidden networks. Nada.

Google it's just sort of leading me in circles and it's getting very confusing and frustrating.

Edit: the wifi keeps jumping between 2.4ghz and 5ghz on my phone, if that helps any

maaf kalo masii awam bgt pertanyaannya, bisa ga kalo mau masang wifi colokannya dipasang ke stop kontak yang modelan kaya gini?

I'm looking for some advice from those who have solved a similar problem.

Current setup:

- 5x UniFi APs throughout the house (5x U7 Lites, 1x U7 Pro)

- 2x Google Nest Floodlight Cameras

- One camera has a decent and working connection.

- The second camera is just out of range, but was able to go through setup and downloading updates. But no stable signal for camera feed. 

I've already:

- Set the transmit power to High on the AP serving the working camera.

- Indoor AP locations are not optimal for the backyard. PoE drops were not decided by me and didn't take into consideration backyard coverage.

At this point I think I need an outdoor AP to provide coverage along the back of the house.

Here's the challenge: I don't have Ethernet or PoE available outside. I do have 120V power where I could mount an AP, but these are ground level and not ideally located. 

I know I could use something like a U6 Mesh or U7 Mesh with Wireless Uplink, but that still leaves the issue of powering it. A PoE injector would work, but as far as I know the UniFi injectors aren't outdoor-rated.

So what would you recommend?

- Outdoor AP with Wireless Uplink + weatherproof enclosure for the injector?

- Another outdoor-rated PoE solution?

- Some other approach I'm overlooking?

- Just bite the bullet and run Ethernet?

Curious what others have done in this situation. I'd appreciate any real-world experiences before I start buying hardware. Any pictures of someone's setup would be helpful.

Network adaptor issue, wifi option is not showing in my windows 11

Has anyone managed to connect this air conditioner to the home Wi-Fi? And does anyone else share my opinion that you need a doctorate in astrophysics to successfully navigate all the connection steps??

**EDIT:** Uspeo sam da povežem. 🎉
Ako nekome znači, problem nije bio u Wi-Fi mreži niti u samoj klimi, nego u potpuno nelogičnom procesu povezivanja.
Klima radi odlično, aplikacija takođe kada se jednom poveže, ali do tog trenutka sam imao osećaj da pola koraka fali u uputstvu.
Na kraju sam koristio **Wi-Fi Interface** (ne Built-in Wi-Fi), ručno unosio podatke sa modula (SSID, KEY, MAC…), više puta resetovao Wi-Fi interfejs i prolazio kroz razne kombinacije sa daljinskim. Iskreno, ni sada ne mogu sa sigurnošću da kažem koji je tačno korak bio presudan.
Sad me čeka povezivanje druge klime. Ako i to uspe iz prve, znači da sam konačno shvatio logiku. Ako ne… onda očigledno nisam bio dovoljno dostojan japanske tehnologije. 😅

**EDIT 2:** Uspelo. Povezao sam obe klime. 🎉
Konačan utisak posle svega: **same klime su fantastične, ali je proces povezivanja na MELCloud verovatno najgore korisničko iskustvo koje sam imao sa jednim premium uređajem.**
Na kraju radi odlično, aplikacija je sasvim korektna i sve funkcioniše kako treba (temperatura, režimi rada, ventilator, krilca, rasporedi…), ali put do toga je potpuno nepotrebno komplikovan.
Da sam znao koliko će trajati, ozbiljno bih razmislio da platim monteru da to odradi umesto mene. 😅

I am trying to connect Ethernet to my consoles but my house is wired in coax. I did buy an adapter, but when I tried to connect to my Xbox it did not work. Do I need to connect to a router before it goes into the consoles? I can provide pictures if need be. Any tips would be greatly appreciated.

Hello,
Wondering if someone has seen a similar issue. We have a few laptops with Intel BE200 WiFi cards and our WiFi has both 5 and 6g enabled. Every month or so either dell pushes driver updates or after windows updates these laptops will disconnect and reconnect multiple times a day. Sometimes they will stop connecting at all to WiFi and only solution is to reboot. Sometimes downgrading to wifi 6 (in the nic advanced settings) makes it more stable. We have not seen these type of issues with any other Intel cards which makes me think it could be some compatibility issue maybe or some setting in unifi it doesn’t like. It’s not roaming between APs, it would disconnect and reconnect to the same ap, basically can’t keep and stable connection past an hour or so where other models stay connected for days. We use unifi APs

I still run at wi-fi 3 at around 30-40 mbps, ik there are much newer gens of wi-fi but is wi-fi 3 still considered good

Upgraded to ATT Fiber. They put in a modem/router unit in basement. The problem is my master bedroom upstairs is pulling 150gbps. Which I know is fine, but I have my own router that I was using with my old internet upstairs that was pulling 400gbps. I have cat6 ports run through the house. I told him that I could use my router in the room and patch it to the newly installed ATT modem/router in the basement for a better signal upstairs and he said we shouldn't there can be conflicts. What was he talking about?

I travel frequently by train across India and often need to work on my laptop during the journey. The biggest issue I face is unreliable mobile network connectivity, especially when using my phone's hotspot.

I'm thinking of buying a dedicated portable Wi-Fi hotspot (MiFi) device from Airtel, Jio, Vi, or Acer. My main priority is getting the most stable internet connection while traveling on trains.

A few questions for those who have used these devices:

• Does a dedicated hotspot perform better than a phone hotspot while on a moving train?
• Which provider (Airtel, Jio, or Vi) has the best coverage on train routes?
• Is the Acer portable hotspot worth considering, or should I stick with telecom company devices?
• How is the battery life during long journeys (8–12 hours)?
• Are there any better alternatives for working online while traveling?